Racing ATF
04-11-2011, 08:01 AM
#801
Burning Brakes
I only use synthetic on only all my cars I have ever owned and no problems and better life for the motor...
Quick update on my 9quarts of Redline lightweight.....roughly 3,300miles since I did D&R's and tranny is shifting amazing
....as you can see I have alot of miles as I went on vacation and drove from Boston to Florida(the ultimate test IMO
). I started with 31degrees and shifts felt firm and crisp...also first few shifts were really loud but then it went away and never returned....go to florida and drove in weather temps of mid 90's and also felt amazing, very smooth shifting when just cruising and firm and crisp and wot......all in all I would highly recommend this to all TL owners for sure!!!
04-11-2011, 11:59 AM
#802
I'm not IHC but short n sweet answer WORTH IT!!!
I only use synthetic on only all my cars I have ever owned and no problems and better life for the motor...
Quick update on my 9quarts of Redline lightweight.....roughly 3,300miles since I did D&R's and tranny is shifting amazing....as you can see I have alot of miles as I went on vacation and drove from Boston to Florida(the ultimate test IMO). I started with 31degrees and shifts felt firm and crisp...also first few shifts were really loud but then it went away and never returned....go to florida and drove in weather temps of mid 90's and also felt amazing, very smooth shifting when just cruising and firm and crisp and wot......
all in all I would highly recommend this to all TL owners for sure!!!
I only use synthetic on only all my cars I have ever owned and no problems and better life for the motor...
Quick update on my 9quarts of Redline lightweight.....roughly 3,300miles since I did D&R's and tranny is shifting amazing
....as you can see I have alot of miles as I went on vacation and drove from Boston to Florida(the ultimate test IMO). I started with 31degrees and shifts felt firm and crisp...also first few shifts were really loud but then it went away and never returned....go to florida and drove in weather temps of mid 90's and also felt amazing, very smooth shifting when just cruising and firm and crisp and wot......all in all I would highly recommend this to all TL owners for sure!!!
Last edited by FollowingNFront; 04-11-2011 at 12:09 PM.
04-11-2011, 01:29 PM
#804
Team Owner
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
04-11-2011, 02:27 PM
#805
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
That's a rip off.. 
Does anyone use the Lucas oil stabilizer when they do oil change? worth it??
04-11-2011, 03:04 PM
#806
Team Owner
It sucks for the "real" synthetics because the average consumer doesn't know any better. How many people would pay almost the same price for Mobil One if they knew it wasn't synthetic and Redline was.
Lucas is a big blob of viscosity index improvers. One of the advantages of a good synthetic is it uses less of these. The less the better and you definitely don't want to dump a big bottle of it in the engine. I know I sound like a salesman but if you want the best in nearly every category whether it's cleaning, HTHS, moly, ZDDP, or cold temp pumpability it's Redline.
04-11-2011, 04:46 PM
#807
I would only run a 5w-20 if you live in an extremely cold area. I've run a straight 30, 10w-30, and 5w-30.
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
Based on what you are saying here, I should be on the lookout for Redline Synthetic 5w-30 engine oil IF I want to switch to synthetic right?
04-11-2011, 05:43 PM
#808
Lucas is a big blob of viscosity index improvers. One of the advantages of a good synthetic is it uses less of these. The less the better and you definitely don't want to dump a big bottle of it in the engine. I know I sound like a salesman but if you want the best in nearly every category whether it's cleaning, HTHS, moly, ZDDP, or cold temp pumpability it's Redline.
I did dumped a whole bottle of Lucas into my engine.. my uncle is an selfemployed mechanic and he told me nothing but pros about the Lucas so I followed his advice Now if I use Redline oil, should I still use a little bit of Lucas or absolutely zero!!Redline from now on
Thanks IHC, you dont sound like a saleman you're heck lot better than them lol
04-11-2011, 05:52 PM
#809
I would only run a 5w-20 if you live in an extremely cold area. I've run a straight 30, 10w-30, and 5w-30.
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
04-11-2011, 07:11 PM
#810
I just want to add a little info, and again this is my experience and others may vary, I've started a thread on this and I hate cars was more than helpful but I would like to let others know. After replacing the pressure switches and doing a 3x3 I noticed even when warm the transmission will shift abruptly, but not a huge noticeable difference but still noticeable. Like it lunges forward a little bit then shifts into the next gear, this is very faint but when you pay attention on a straight road that's perfect you can feel it, this is due to the racing ATF not having friction modifiers so the clutch packs grab right away preventing wear which is a good thing, but you do loose some luxury of smooth shifting when switching to this fluid. Then again my mounts could be screwed but I really doubt it as I feel no vibrations from anything at all, maybe a little at start up faintly due to the ULEV.
04-11-2011, 07:29 PM
#811
Team Owner
I believe I read somewhere that you wrote that you would only recommend 5w30 to a user that does long trips, driving for about 15 minutes. That if there is someone who does quick trips they should stay on the 5w20. Is that still valid? I'm not even sure if I should run 5w30 because I make a lot of 5-10 minute trips.
I just want to add a little info, and again this is my experience and others may vary, I've started a thread on this and I hate cars was more than helpful but I would like to let others know. After replacing the pressure switches and doing a 3x3 I noticed even when warm the transmission will shift abruptly, but not a huge noticeable difference but still noticeable. Like it lunges forward a little bit then shifts into the next gear, this is very faint but when you pay attention on a straight road that's perfect you can feel it, this is due to the racing ATF not having friction modifiers so the clutch packs grab right away preventing wear which is a good thing, but you do loose some luxury of smooth shifting when switching to this fluid. Then again my mounts could be screwed but I really doubt it as I feel no vibrations from anything at all, maybe a little at start up faintly due to the ULEV.
04-11-2011, 09:02 PM
#813
I Hate Cars, this might be a little bit weird but I was checking the fluid after I shut the car off and it was on the bottom hole on the the dip stick despite teh fact that I put in an extra qt today. Looked at the switches and underneath the car, no drip. any ideas?
04-11-2011, 09:44 PM
#814
anyone hear about total performance oil? The guy who does all my install uses that for oil changes and I am most probably switching to it. My car just threw up the A3 maintenance code which i believe means an ATF change is needed. I just hit 60k miles. Everything on my car has been handled by the dealer up until now. I plan on going with red line racing ATF and total performance oil. Any reason why i should not make the switch? Also I will be doing the 3x3 in one day...I will take the car off the lift after the first 3 and drive it around to make sure i get through all the gears....I will then do the next 3 and drive it around through the gears again and then the last one. I see many people waiting a week or so in between but I do not have that kind of time with the lift. Is there any problem if I do it the way I just described?
04-11-2011, 09:56 PM
#816
I hate cars can you please verify this, after reading a thread someone stated that the 3x3 drain actually drains out about 3.2qt per drain so in turn that looses .6 of a quart, maybe that's the problem? If it's been sitting longer while draining maybe more came out and I should add more on top of my 1 quart i added already?
04-11-2011, 10:20 PM
#817
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Each drain is like starting at square One again. That is ---
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
04-11-2011, 10:38 PM
#818
Racer
No. It is not cumulative. True, a drain might drain out 3.2 quarts. But you can Not add that 0.2 qt by 3 times.
Each drain is like starting at square One again. That is ---
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
Each drain is like starting at square One again. That is ---
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
Thanks
04-11-2011, 10:39 PM
#819
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
No. It is not cumulative. True, a drain might drain out 3.2 quarts. But you can Not add that 0.2 qt by 3 times.
Each drain is like starting at square One again. That is ---
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
Each drain is like starting at square One again. That is ---
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
04-11-2011, 10:56 PM
#820
Safety Car
Thread Starter
It will drain out the 3.2 qts provided the trans was previously full.
If the trans is 0.2 qts low before the drain, only 3.0 qts will drain out.
You are draining out from the drain pan. The remaining fluid is trapped within the internals of the trans.
The trans hold 7.4 qts. Of that, 4.2 qts is trapped within the trans. So no matter what, you will always be starting from that 4.2 qts. Think of this trapped fluid as an "equalizer". No matter how full or low (within reason of course) the fluid was before the drain, you can always rely on adding just 3 qts and have it be reasonably full.
4.2 qts (every time) + 3.0 qts = 7.2 qts (every time)
If the trans is 0.2 qts low before the drain, only 3.0 qts will drain out.
You are draining out from the drain pan. The remaining fluid is trapped within the internals of the trans.
The trans hold 7.4 qts. Of that, 4.2 qts is trapped within the trans. So no matter what, you will always be starting from that 4.2 qts. Think of this trapped fluid as an "equalizer". No matter how full or low (within reason of course) the fluid was before the drain, you can always rely on adding just 3 qts and have it be reasonably full.
4.2 qts (every time) + 3.0 qts = 7.2 qts (every time)
Last edited by Inaccurate; 04-11-2011 at 11:09 PM.
04-11-2011, 11:01 PM
#821
Edit: Or what he said above.lol
Last edited by sddale; 04-11-2011 at 11:11 PM.
04-11-2011, 11:16 PM
#822
Safety Car
Thread Starter
EDIT (in blue color)
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out 3.0 qts. (because it was 0.2 low from previous fill)
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out 3.0 qts. (because it was 0.2 low from previous fill)
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
FIRST DRAIN
1) Drain out maybe 3.2 qts.
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick).
SECOND DRAIN
1) Drain out 3.0 qts. (because it was 0.2 low from previous fill)
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.4 qts low.
THIRD DRAIN
1) Drain out 3.0 qts. (because it was 0.2 low from previous fill)
2) Add 3 new qts.
3) Check level. Might be 0.2 qt low (IF you can detect that on the stick). It will not be 0.6 qts low.
04-12-2011, 07:39 AM
#825
Ok, I did the 3x3 and noticed the other day that the fluid level was below or on the lowest hole (two on dip stick) so I was ok maybe this is why I feel the bump at the beggining of the shift, so I went and dumped another quart in there and a day later it's still at that hole, no leaks, any suggestions?
04-12-2011, 07:50 AM
#827
Team Owner
Sounds like you were very low. Always think of the factory spec as a rough guideline. You still have to check the level after you've started it and shifted through the gears.
The dipstick might not be able to lower than the very bottom. It might sit in a puddle of fluid. If it registered at all and you added a quart it would be at or past the full mark.
Sounds like the converter is draining back. I would check the level as soon as you shut the engine off or it might register fuller than it really is.
The dipstick might not be able to lower than the very bottom. It might sit in a puddle of fluid. If it registered at all and you added a quart it would be at or past the full mark.
Sounds like the converter is draining back. I would check the level as soon as you shut the engine off or it might register fuller than it really is.
04-12-2011, 09:10 AM
#828
Checked the fluid again after the drive, it's still at the bottom hole mark. It's weird because when I did the 3x3 I know I put in 3 quarts and that was last week, yesterday I put in 1 quart so 4 quarts total. I just bought anoter 4 quarts and will do another drain to see what happens. As for your suggestion on another thread I might cough up the money to buy all motor mounts and transmission mount to see if that's the problem. Like I said I feel the begging of the shift, one solid grab like your going over a small bump, it's faint but annoying when your used to the z1 fluid cause it was smooth
04-13-2011, 09:06 AM
#829
Team Owner
I would get the level issues straightened out first. Sounds like you were extremely low. Are you sure you refilled it the last time? It might have been barely getting by on the fluid left in the converter. There's just no other way you can add that much fluid and have it still low. I have a feeling it will be fine once the level is right.
04-13-2011, 11:33 AM
#830
Burning Brakes
I would only run a 5w-20 if you live in an extremely cold area. I've run a straight 30, 10w-30, and 5w-30.
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
+1 on what IHC said....also FYI I ran Mobil1 synthetic for 3 reasons....1. I take short trips often most of time actually. 2.I love in the Northeast and 3rd. I get it at a discounted price which is main reason, other then that I would recommend 5w-30 or 10w-30 to anyone else asking me personally...
To MarineDelta just wondering if you check both sides of the dipstick, because one thing I have noticed with Redline vs the Z1 since redline is thinner it doesnt grab and show as much as the Z1 would on the dipstick, just a thought....When I check mine sometimes one side is clear and other side on the ends it shows the level where it is @!!! Good luck and keep us informed on what the result of that ends up being
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
The J32 spec'd a 5w-30 until the new CAFE standards required them to run a 5w-20 for the .001mpg increase in '04. I've read the papers on this and it states that they must print 5w-20 on th cap and in the owner's manual to comply. Nothing about the engine changed, just the dumb government agencies that can't see past their own noses. It's funny how most of the cars that spec 5w-20 over here spec a 30 or 40wt in other parts of the world where CAFE doesn't exist.
+1 on what IHC said....also FYI I ran Mobil1 synthetic for 3 reasons....1. I take short trips often most of time actually. 2.I love in the Northeast and 3rd. I get it at a discounted price which is main reason, other then that I would recommend 5w-30 or 10w-30 to anyone else asking me personally...
To MarineDelta just wondering if you check both sides of the dipstick, because one thing I have noticed with Redline vs the Z1 since redline is thinner it doesnt grab and show as much as the Z1 would on the dipstick, just a thought....When I check mine sometimes one side is clear and other side on the ends it shows the level where it is @!!! Good luck and keep us informed on what the result of that ends up being
I would run a 30wt. We even have a couple members running a 0w-40 in the TL.
You can switch to a synthetic any time. If you want the largest benefit, run a real synthetic like Redline or Motul. Most "full synthetics" are actually highly refined dino oils. I'm not saying you should switch, it's not necessary for the TL but it can give you a little extra insurance and it will keep everything cleaner for the long haul.
Ok, I did the 3x3 and noticed the other day that the fluid level was below or on the lowest hole (two on dip stick) so I was ok maybe this is why I feel the bump at the beggining of the shift, so I went and dumped another quart in there and a day later it's still at that hole, no leaks, any suggestions?
...good luck and let us know what the end result ends up being
04-13-2011, 12:54 PM
#832
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^not exactly sure, but i just keep mine in SS and make sure to shift before 2k rpm until it gets warmed up...usually the amount of time it takes me to get out of my neighborhood.
the shifts won't be harsh if you shift early enough.
the shifts won't be harsh if you shift early enough.
04-13-2011, 01:01 PM
#833
Team Owner
I don't know that it has anything to do with the viscosity. It's been mentioned before that the DBW doesn't close throttle on shifts when cold like it does when hot. It might be related to that rather than the viscosity.
Very harsh shifts can wear out items such as mounts and axles. Keep in mind an auto with harsh shifts is no where near as hard on stuff as a 6mt during normal use so it's pretty safe to say it won't hurt a thing.
04-13-2011, 01:02 PM
#834
Full of water...
FINALLY got my 3x3 done yesterday, along with an oil change, brake fluid change, and an alignment. There is definitely an improvement, but I cant say I "felt" an issue before hand so it could just be the new fluid. I originally planned on getting this done a few months ago when it was cold, so my plan was to use 2 lightweights and 1 standard per each fill. When my order was shipped 1 of the 3 standard weights were damaged and leaking so they sent me a new, but they sent the lightweight instead. So now I have 7 lightweights and 2 standards to work with. I decided on using only lightweight for the first two fills, and then close with the 2 standards and the last remaining lightweight.
Shifts feel great, I would describe them as being "with purpose". Not harder or harsher, but more direct or maybe a tad quicker in feel. Either way I am just happy its finally in. I will report back more once I have a few more miles. Still havent done the pressure switches yet but they are on my list....but thats also what I have been saying for the past 2yrs with my PCDs that are still in my garage, so we shall see
Shifts feel great, I would describe them as being "with purpose". Not harder or harsher, but more direct or maybe a tad quicker in feel. Either way I am just happy its finally in. I will report back more once I have a few more miles. Still havent done the pressure switches yet but they are on my list....but thats also what I have been saying for the past 2yrs with my PCDs that are still in my garage, so we shall see
04-13-2011, 04:31 PM
#835
My shifts are much more direct as stated above. Today the shifts seem to smooth out a tad bit but the little "lunge forward feel" is still there, slightly. Maybe the fluid is so fresh that the clutch is just grabbing it too harshly? I tried resetting the ecu as well to see if it helps but no avail. IHC I did refill the 3 quarts, tomorrow I'm going to do another 1x1 (over $140 in fuluids!!) and maybe put 4 qts in there instead. Do you suggest me changing the transmission filter as well (05). Also if the upper transmission mount is ripped would that cause this? It didn't happen until AFTER I did the 3x3 however.
04-13-2011, 04:54 PM
#836
Team Owner
Is the level ok now? At 3.5 quarts, mine is past the top hole. Something is wrong for yours to take that much. No need to put 4 in during a fill. Do 3, start it for a few seconds, shift to drive and reverse, shut it off and recheck the level. Another drain and fill likely won't make a difference.
04-13-2011, 05:19 PM
#837
Now if I didn't have enough fluid to begin with, would it still drain out 3qts? The level is still below the bottom dot but theres sime mildly up middle of the whole dip stick, probably from splashing up on it?
04-13-2011, 05:41 PM
#838
Team Owner
Are you checking it with the engine on or off? If it's still low, add some more and your problems will probably go away. The fluid is probably getting aerated.
04-14-2011, 07:56 AM
#839
I checked the fluid level with the car on and off. IHC from researching the threads there are people that are draining out over 3qts some less. I've read a few posts where one guy drained 4 qts and other occasions where some drained out 3.2-3.5ish. Still I put in 4 quarts and no avail, Posted pics in a different thread please view, bottom last post
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/normal-redline-racing-atf-feel-shifts-815207/
IHC, you'll probably hate me haha but I'm going to do a 1x4 today, meaning drain all and put in 3 1/2- 4 quarts of the type f redline racing fluid and see if I notice anything including checking levels. I really hope that the fluid level was just somewhat low. If the fluid level is flushed and bump shift still persist I think I might drain and put the new dw1 fluid in. Like I said bump is barely noticeable but I'm anal and like the feeling of the car not shifting. On a bright side I did change the switches
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/normal-redline-racing-atf-feel-shifts-815207/
IHC, you'll probably hate me haha but I'm going to do a 1x4 today, meaning drain all and put in 3 1/2- 4 quarts of the type f redline racing fluid and see if I notice anything including checking levels. I really hope that the fluid level was just somewhat low. If the fluid level is flushed and bump shift still persist I think I might drain and put the new dw1 fluid in. Like I said bump is barely noticeable but I'm anal and like the feeling of the car not shifting. On a bright side I did change the switches
04-14-2011, 09:18 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Palm Harbor, Florida
Age: 54
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So I really screwed up and overfilled my trans by about half a quart- The first to Second shift is really harsh and 3rd is lazy and 4th and 5th seems ok. the fluid (redline type F) smells and looks burnt. I have had it in for about 2 weeks. I have the level corrected now- but harshness is still there. I replaced the pressure switches previously. I ordered new redline fluid and new pressure switches in the hopes that helps. Am I out of luck now in regards to saving the trans?