Racing ATF
03-31-2011, 06:40 PM
#721
Make MyTL Great Again
Well I just ordered from JEGS.com 8 qts racing atf, 4 qts lightweight racing atf as the overall shipping charge was cheaper then directly from Red Line.
Now how should I go about the fluid change? I know how to do it, that isn't what I'm asking. As I mentioned, my car is at 77.5k miles, and I've experienced bad upshifts to 3rd and 4th, already swapped the pressure switches, and I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each) with Z1 in the past.
Should I do the 3x3 in one shot? Or as I read somewhere. do a 1x3, and wait a few weeks to ensure no issues since I've been running Z1 for so long, then do the rest?
Now how should I go about the fluid change? I know how to do it, that isn't what I'm asking. As I mentioned, my car is at 77.5k miles, and I've experienced bad upshifts to 3rd and 4th, already swapped the pressure switches, and I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each) with Z1 in the past.
Should I do the 3x3 in one shot? Or as I read somewhere. do a 1x3, and wait a few weeks to ensure no issues since I've been running Z1 for so long, then do the rest?
03-31-2011, 06:58 PM
#722
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
Just got done driving 200 miles over the past week, changing out 3 quarts (12qts total) after every 50 miles with Redline non-lightweight. All I can say is WOW. First shift can be stiff, but yet again it was in the 40s this week and if it wasn't for the sunny weather I wouldn't have even taken the car out. I don't plan on driving this in the cold except in these rare early spring season occasions. With that being said, this fluid has fulfilled my every expectation...and more. The much improved (and dare I say perfected) speed and confidence I feel in 2nd to 3rd gear shifts (even after replacing pressure switches 10k miles ago with SOME results) makes this feel like a whole new transmission. As Innacurate and others have said, with every 3qt drain and refill I felt the car transform. I am so glad I made this modest investment and took the time to do it myself. Power delivery is much improved and consistent with no hesitation to shift as it was before. I can't wait till this summer to really put this fluid to use! Thx all for your contributions!
Last edited by gerzand; 03-31-2011 at 07:07 PM.
03-31-2011, 08:18 PM
#723
Well I just ordered from JEGS.com 8 qts racing atf, 4 qts lightweight racing atf as the overall shipping charge was cheaper then directly from Red Line.
Now how should I go about the fluid change? I know how to do it, that isn't what I'm asking. As I mentioned, my car is at 77.5k miles, and I've experienced bad upshifts to 3rd and 4th, already swapped the pressure switches, and I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each) with Z1 in the past.
Should I do the 3x3 in one shot? Or as I read somewhere. do a 1x3, and wait a few weeks to ensure no issues since I've been running Z1 for so long, then do the rest?
Now how should I go about the fluid change? I know how to do it, that isn't what I'm asking. As I mentioned, my car is at 77.5k miles, and I've experienced bad upshifts to 3rd and 4th, already swapped the pressure switches, and I've done a total of 2 drain and fills (3qt each) with Z1 in the past.
Should I do the 3x3 in one shot? Or as I read somewhere. do a 1x3, and wait a few weeks to ensure no issues since I've been running Z1 for so long, then do the rest?
03-31-2011, 08:58 PM
#724
Burning Brakes
And the RESULTS!!!
so the new transmission is in and all new pressure switches, Redline Lightweight 2 gallons came in yesterday and performed a D&R....for some weird reason I managed to drain and fill 2 gallons worth so total of roughly 8quarts....I used a lift so performed first drain and fill and it took the whole first gallon which was strange but either way....while on lift run car thru all the gears up to about 60mph or so and then did another drain and fill with the other gallon of lightweight fluid......didnt begin to poor out so i luckily I had about half quart of z1 left over just to top off which took only about another quart of 1 quart of z1....
so when i had 2gallons of lightweight racing in there when going from park to drive I got this large snap like clutches slapping together which worried me at first, but after doing twice it went away...(im assuming that since clutches are fairly new and the new z1 fluid was in there was drained, maybe clutches hadnt fully lathered up in fluid and slapped really thin with the lightweight stuff)
...maybe InAC and IHC can explain that....
but after that no issues shifted smooth and all I can say is WOW didnt know it would make such a big diffirence...Just really amazing and weather here right now is about 30degrees and it still felt great, and yes I only used straight lightweight racing....will be taking off to florida tommorow night and can't wait to have some fun with the new feel of the Transmission
amazing fluid just really unbelieveable how my trans shifts so firm n crisp and yet while I cruise i still have soft there but crisp
Thanks again!!!
so the new transmission is in and all new pressure switches, Redline Lightweight 2 gallons came in yesterday and performed a D&R....for some weird reason I managed to drain and fill 2 gallons worth so total of roughly 8quarts....I used a lift so performed first drain and fill and it took the whole first gallon which was strange but either way....while on lift run car thru all the gears up to about 60mph or so and then did another drain and fill with the other gallon of lightweight fluid......didnt begin to poor out so i luckily I had about half quart of z1 left over just to top off which took only about another quart of 1 quart of z1....
so when i had 2gallons of lightweight racing in there when going from park to drive I got this large snap like clutches slapping together which worried me at first, but after doing twice it went away...(im assuming that since clutches are fairly new and the new z1 fluid was in there was drained, maybe clutches hadnt fully lathered up in fluid and slapped really thin with the lightweight stuff)
...maybe InAC and IHC can explain that....but after that no issues shifted smooth and all I can say is WOW didnt know it would make such a big diffirence...Just really amazing and weather here right now is about 30degrees and it still felt great, and yes I only used straight lightweight racing....will be taking off to florida tommorow night and can't wait to have some fun with the new feel of the Transmission
amazing fluid just really unbelieveable how my trans shifts so firm n crisp and yet while I cruise i still have soft there but crispThanks again!!!
03-31-2011, 10:27 PM
#725
Safety Car
Thread Starter
FollowingNFront,
I don't know if the 3G TL and the 7G Accord V6 have the same transmission. Finding information about if either car cuts the throttle is difficult (impossible
) to find. I had always felt that our 3g TL closed the throttle. Whenever I mentioned this on the forum, most people didn't believe it. It was not until I got a data logger to log the TPS that I had proof that the 3G does indeed cut the throttle during shifts.
I do not know anyone with a V6 5at 7Gen Accord using Redline Racing. Have you tried doing a search on the forum listed below?
Copy and paste this link into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks this link. So, this is why I must disguise it with the red X.
http://www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/
With your cold winters, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
Regarding the DW1. Skip it. ONLY the Redline Racing or Amsoil Racing ATF can offer this level of protection. Nothing else comes remotely close.
The Redline will work the same if it be a brand new or recently rebuilt transmission. The mileage doesn't matter. Just get the Racing ATF in there NOW to halt the wear and preserve what you can.
Will the Racing ATF work good in your Accord? I will tell you that it will NOT harm the transmission to try it. You will need to put the Racing ATF in there and try it. It will be a judgment call if it shifts to harshly for you. Each person is different in how they perceive the shifting. If it shifts hard or harshly and you like it, leave the Racing fluid in there. If your shifts develop a shudder during the shift, you will need to remove the Racing fluid because shudder can harm the trans over a long period of time.
I don't know if the 3G TL and the 7G Accord V6 have the same transmission. Finding information about if either car cuts the throttle is difficult (impossible
) to find. I had always felt that our 3g TL closed the throttle. Whenever I mentioned this on the forum, most people didn't believe it. It was not until I got a data logger to log the TPS that I had proof that the 3G does indeed cut the throttle during shifts.I do not know anyone with a V6 5at 7Gen Accord using Redline Racing. Have you tried doing a search on the forum listed below?
Copy and paste this link into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks this link. So, this is why I must disguise it with the red X.
http://www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/
With your cold winters, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
Regarding the DW1. Skip it. ONLY the Redline Racing or Amsoil Racing ATF can offer this level of protection. Nothing else comes remotely close.
The Redline will work the same if it be a brand new or recently rebuilt transmission. The mileage doesn't matter. Just get the Racing ATF in there NOW to halt the wear and preserve what you can.
Will the Racing ATF work good in your Accord? I will tell you that it will NOT harm the transmission to try it. You will need to put the Racing ATF in there and try it. It will be a judgment call if it shifts to harshly for you. Each person is different in how they perceive the shifting. If it shifts hard or harshly and you like it, leave the Racing fluid in there. If your shifts develop a shudder during the shift, you will need to remove the Racing fluid because shudder can harm the trans over a long period of time.
03-31-2011, 10:52 PM
#726
Team Owner
In addition to what Inaccurate said, it's an easy choice, go for it! This is just an assumption but I think it's a very good assumption..... If it's DBW it probably cuts throttle between shifts. I couldn't see the same engine, trans, and ECU in basically the same car cutting throttle in one car and not in the other.
But even if it doesn't cut throttle, I've used this fluid in some of the older 2g TLs that don't cut throttle and shifts are fine, no shudder. They are a little harder, you feel them as you would in an older trans but they're not harsh, I doubt passengers would notice.
I'm probably the one that started the whole thing about only using this fluid if you have DBW that cuts throttle but that was before I had tried it in one of those cars.
As Inaccurate said, it can't harm the trans so there's no reason to not try it. I guarantee it won't shudder but if it does, just swap it out for D4 or some other DexIII equivalent.
A 50-50 mix of lightweight and regular racing will put you very close to factory weight. There's no need to get it exact. If the temp varies by 20 degrees you're already into a different weigh range and variations happen a lot (think about the warm-up process). Also keep in mind that Z1 is a dino oil and Redline is a synthetic ester oil. If they're the same viscosity when hot, Redline will be thinner upon start up because the synthetic does not thicken up as much when it's cold. Or another way of looking at it is synthetics don't thin out as much when hot.
Inaccurate uses straight lightweight in the hot Texas summers. I used straight regular racing through my winter (which only gets down to freezing) and no issues. For an extreme winter though I do recommend mixing the lightweight with it but what I'm getting at is don't worry too much about the mixture, do two quarts of one and one quart of the other, doesn't matter that much which one has the higher percent.
But even if it doesn't cut throttle, I've used this fluid in some of the older 2g TLs that don't cut throttle and shifts are fine, no shudder. They are a little harder, you feel them as you would in an older trans but they're not harsh, I doubt passengers would notice.
I'm probably the one that started the whole thing about only using this fluid if you have DBW that cuts throttle but that was before I had tried it in one of those cars.
As Inaccurate said, it can't harm the trans so there's no reason to not try it. I guarantee it won't shudder but if it does, just swap it out for D4 or some other DexIII equivalent.
A 50-50 mix of lightweight and regular racing will put you very close to factory weight. There's no need to get it exact. If the temp varies by 20 degrees you're already into a different weigh range and variations happen a lot (think about the warm-up process). Also keep in mind that Z1 is a dino oil and Redline is a synthetic ester oil. If they're the same viscosity when hot, Redline will be thinner upon start up because the synthetic does not thicken up as much when it's cold. Or another way of looking at it is synthetics don't thin out as much when hot.
Inaccurate uses straight lightweight in the hot Texas summers. I used straight regular racing through my winter (which only gets down to freezing) and no issues. For an extreme winter though I do recommend mixing the lightweight with it but what I'm getting at is don't worry too much about the mixture, do two quarts of one and one quart of the other, doesn't matter that much which one has the higher percent.
03-31-2011, 11:32 PM
#727
FollowingNFront,
I don't know if the 3G TL and the 7G Accord V6 have the same transmission. Finding information about if either car cuts the throttle is difficult (impossible) to find. I had always felt that our 3g TL closed the throttle. Whenever I mentioned this on the forum, most people didn't believe it. It was not until I got a data logger to log the TPS that I had proof that the 3G does indeed cut the throttle during shifts.
I do not know anyone with a V6 5at 7Gen Accord using Redline Racing. Have you tried doing a search on the forum listed below?
Copy and paste this link into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks this link. So, this is why I must disguise it with the red X.
http://www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/
With your cold winters, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
Regarding the DW1. Skip it. ONLY the Redline Racing or Amsoil Racing ATF can offer this level of protection. Nothing else comes remotely close.
The Redline will work the same if it be a brand new or recently rebuilt transmission. The mileage doesn't matter. Just get the Racing ATF in there NOW to halt the wear and preserve what you can.
Will the Racing ATF work good in your Accord? I will tell you that it will NOT harm the transmission to try it. You will need to put the Racing ATF in there and try it. It will be a judgment call if it shifts to harshly for you. Each person is different in how they perceive the shifting. If it shifts hard or harshly and you like it, leave the Racing fluid in there. If your shifts develop a shudder during the shift, you will need to remove the Racing fluid because shudder can harm the trans over a long period of time.
I don't know if the 3G TL and the 7G Accord V6 have the same transmission. Finding information about if either car cuts the throttle is difficult (impossible
) to find. I had always felt that our 3g TL closed the throttle. Whenever I mentioned this on the forum, most people didn't believe it. It was not until I got a data logger to log the TPS that I had proof that the 3G does indeed cut the throttle during shifts.I do not know anyone with a V6 5at 7Gen Accord using Redline Racing. Have you tried doing a search on the forum listed below?
Copy and paste this link into your browser. Remove the red X before submitting. Acurazine blocks this link. So, this is why I must disguise it with the red X.
http://www.v6Xperformance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/
With your cold winters, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) per every refill. I have been using pure RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I have 5 refills with the lightweight. That makes my entire ATF approx 93% Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314). I run my car hard. Even thru the Texas summer, I saw zero metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug.
Regarding the DW1. Skip it. ONLY the Redline Racing or Amsoil Racing ATF can offer this level of protection. Nothing else comes remotely close.
The Redline will work the same if it be a brand new or recently rebuilt transmission. The mileage doesn't matter. Just get the Racing ATF in there NOW to halt the wear and preserve what you can.
Will the Racing ATF work good in your Accord? I will tell you that it will NOT harm the transmission to try it. You will need to put the Racing ATF in there and try it. It will be a judgment call if it shifts to harshly for you. Each person is different in how they perceive the shifting. If it shifts hard or harshly and you like it, leave the Racing fluid in there. If your shifts develop a shudder during the shift, you will need to remove the Racing fluid because shudder can harm the trans over a long period of time.
In addition to what Inaccurate said, it's an easy choice, go for it! This is just an assumption but I think it's a very good assumption..... If it's DBW it probably cuts throttle between shifts. I couldn't see the same engine, trans, and ECU in basically the same car cutting throttle in one car and not in the other.
But even if it doesn't cut throttle, I've used this fluid in some of the older 2g TLs that don't cut throttle and shifts are fine, no shudder. They are a little harder, you feel them as you would in an older trans but they're not harsh, I doubt passengers would notice.
I'm probably the one that started the whole thing about only using this fluid if you have DBW that cuts throttle but that was before I had tried it in one of those cars.
As Inaccurate said, it can't harm the trans so there's no reason to not try it. I guarantee it won't shudder but if it does, just swap it out for D4 or some other DexIII equivalent.
A 50-50 mix of lightweight and regular racing will put you very close to factory weight. There's no need to get it exact. If the temp varies by 20 degrees you're already into a different weigh range and variations happen a lot (think about the warm-up process). Also keep in mind that Z1 is a dino oil and Redline is a synthetic ester oil. If they're the same viscosity when hot, Redline will be thinner upon start up because the synthetic does not thicken up as much when it's cold. Or another way of looking at it is synthetics don't thin out as much when hot.
Inaccurate uses straight lightweight in the hot Texas summers. I used straight regular racing through my winter (which only gets down to freezing) and no issues. For an extreme winter though I do recommend mixing the lightweight with it but what I'm getting at is don't worry too much about the mixture, do two quarts of one and one quart of the other, doesn't matter that much which one has the higher percent.
But even if it doesn't cut throttle, I've used this fluid in some of the older 2g TLs that don't cut throttle and shifts are fine, no shudder. They are a little harder, you feel them as you would in an older trans but they're not harsh, I doubt passengers would notice.
I'm probably the one that started the whole thing about only using this fluid if you have DBW that cuts throttle but that was before I had tried it in one of those cars.
As Inaccurate said, it can't harm the trans so there's no reason to not try it. I guarantee it won't shudder but if it does, just swap it out for D4 or some other DexIII equivalent.
A 50-50 mix of lightweight and regular racing will put you very close to factory weight. There's no need to get it exact. If the temp varies by 20 degrees you're already into a different weigh range and variations happen a lot (think about the warm-up process). Also keep in mind that Z1 is a dino oil and Redline is a synthetic ester oil. If they're the same viscosity when hot, Redline will be thinner upon start up because the synthetic does not thicken up as much when it's cold. Or another way of looking at it is synthetics don't thin out as much when hot.
Inaccurate uses straight lightweight in the hot Texas summers. I used straight regular racing through my winter (which only gets down to freezing) and no issues. For an extreme winter though I do recommend mixing the lightweight with it but what I'm getting at is don't worry too much about the mixture, do two quarts of one and one quart of the other, doesn't matter that much which one has the higher percent.
To INNACURATE, I am a member of V6XP, and also DriveXAccord(dot)Net. Here is a thread I started over on V6XPwhere a few people are telling me to only use Z1, which obviously isn't my only option.
http://v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-technical-discussion/210260-redline-atf.html
A guy on DriveXAccord did however say he's using Redline in his Accord, but I think its D4.
**Also, I read somewhere in this thread before that one of you guys recommended starting D&Rs with Redline D4, and slowly adding Type F... Is that how I should do it? And does it only take 3 D&Rs to basically have replaced ALL fluid (give or take a percent or two)?
Thanks again.
Last edited by FollowingNFront; 03-31-2011 at 11:36 PM.
03-31-2011, 11:45 PM
#728
Team Owner
Thanks SOOO much for the responses guys! I am very inclined to do this now... To I HATE CARS, I feel as you do: the engines are almost the same, the trannys are basically the same, and they both have DBW throttle. I believe that the Accord's throttle gets cut during shifts too.
To INNACURATE, I am a member of V6XP, and also DriveXAccord(dot)Net. Here is a thread I started over on V6XPwhere a few people are telling me to only use Z1, which obviously isn't my only option.
http://v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-technical-discussion/210260-redline-atf.html
A guy on DriveXAccord did however say he's using Redline in his Accord, but I think its D4.
**Also, I read somewhere in this thread before that one of you guys recommended starting D&Rs with Redline D4, and slowly adding Type F... Is that how I should do it? And does it only take 3 D&Rs to basically have replaced ALL fluid (give or take a percent or two)?
Thanks again.
To INNACURATE, I am a member of V6XP, and also DriveXAccord(dot)Net. Here is a thread I started over on V6XPwhere a few people are telling me to only use Z1, which obviously isn't my only option.
http://v6Xperformance.net/forums/7g-technical-discussion/210260-redline-atf.html
A guy on DriveXAccord did however say he's using Redline in his Accord, but I think its D4.
**Also, I read somewhere in this thread before that one of you guys recommended starting D&Rs with Redline D4, and slowly adding Type F... Is that how I should do it? And does it only take 3 D&Rs to basically have replaced ALL fluid (give or take a percent or two)?
Thanks again.
03-31-2011, 11:49 PM
#729
Go straight to the racing. Starting off slowly with the racing was only when Inaccurate did it for the first time and we didn't know if there would be any shudder. Now that we know it's 100% safe, you can and should go straight to type F. Just a few years ago everyone on here said you would have trans failures if you used anything other than Z1. Now we realize Z1 is the worst fluid you can put in one of these transmissions ironically. I don't mean this in a bad way and I used to say the same thing, but people suggest only Z1 out of ignorance and that's what Honda has hammered into peoples' heads. I've got 100,000 miles on the car with 80,000 being a non approved fluid that people said would result in a quick transmission death. So far mine has outlasted MANY people that used only Z1 and it shifts much better than when I bought it brand new.
I think I will do 5qt. Racing, and 4qt. Lightweight Racing.
I only need to do 3 D&Rs right?
04-01-2011, 03:51 AM
#730
Is anyone else using Amsoils type-f besides me? Ive never even tried redline but the amsoil has not given me any problems at all. I think its safe to say that the type-f fluid is the only reason my tranny is still alive with 9000 boosted miles.
For anyone worried about viscosity and wanting to keep that number as close to the oem number of 7, amsoil's viscosity is 7.1
For anyone worried about viscosity and wanting to keep that number as close to the oem number of 7, amsoil's viscosity is 7.1
04-01-2011, 04:02 AM
#731
Safety Car
Thread Starter
^ True. The Amsoil Racing ATF is good too. I push the Redline brand instead of the Amsoil because Redline is a great company to do business with.
Whereas Amsoil is ......... well, I can't tell you because that information is proprietary.
Whereas Amsoil is ......... well, I can't tell you because that information is proprietary.
04-01-2011, 11:39 PM
#733
I can say I have a 2003 Accord Coupe V6 5AT and i did the switches and Amsoil super shift type F fluid and it made a major difference to it, way better shifting night and day plus my double bump going into drive went away. So i can confirm that it works very good in the accord. I also did the same for My 2007 Acura TL Base with the same positive results as the accord just not as major since the Accord has 182,000 mils on it and the TL has 51,000.
Last edited by alpha2beta; 04-01-2011 at 11:45 PM.
04-02-2011, 12:10 AM
#734
Team Owner
Is anyone else using Amsoils type-f besides me? Ive never even tried redline but the amsoil has not given me any problems at all. I think its safe to say that the type-f fluid is the only reason my tranny is still alive with 9000 boosted miles.
For anyone worried about viscosity and wanting to keep that number as close to the oem number of 7, amsoil's viscosity is 7.1
For anyone worried about viscosity and wanting to keep that number as close to the oem number of 7, amsoil's viscosity is 7.1
I sometimes recommend the Super Shift but it always bites me in the ass. I still get 20 pms a day on mixing the Redline racing and lightweight. Throw another fluid in there even with a good detailed explanation and the questions double.
Inaccurate, any chance of putting our heads together and coming up with an ATF sticky? You write much better than me and I think you could make things much more organized and clear.
04-02-2011, 12:10 AM
#735
Team Owner
I can say I have a 2003 Accord Coupe V6 5AT and i did the switches and Amsoil super shift type F fluid and it made a major difference to it, way better shifting night and day plus my double bump going into drive went away. So i can confirm that it works very good in the accord. I also did the same for My 2007 Acura TL Base with the same positive results as the accord just not as major since the Accord has 182,000 mils on it and the TL has 51,000.
04-02-2011, 03:43 PM
#736
I can say I have a 2003 Accord Coupe V6 5AT and i did the switches and Amsoil super shift type F fluid and it made a major difference to it, way better shifting night and day plus my double bump going into drive went away. So i can confirm that it works very good in the accord. I also did the same for My 2007 Acura TL Base with the same positive results as the accord just not as major since the Accord has 182,000 mils on it and the TL has 51,000.
Oh btw, I HATE CARS, all I need is 3 D&Rs to have something like 98% of the new stuff in there right?
04-02-2011, 07:12 PM
#737
No, I wish, I was was on the original transmission but at 155,000 miles I had a local shop rebuild the transmission for about 1700 dollars, clutch packs and torque converter were replaced but the shop did not do the pressure sensors and I did not know about these sensors and type F fluid till about a year after the rebuild so I did both, now I have just about nothing on the drain plug magnet. I Just wish I knew about this years ago could of saved hundred of dollars. But oh well better now than never.
04-02-2011, 10:50 PM
#738
Question on Tranny Fluid Change
I've been reading up on this topic but since I'm not a technical person and only owned my TL for about 2 weeks, I'm still a bit confused.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.
04-02-2011, 10:55 PM
#739
baller on a budget, b!tch
I've been reading up on this topic but since I'm not a technical person and only owned my TL for about 2 weeks, I'm still a bit confused.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=764322
04-03-2011, 12:33 AM
#740
No, I wish, I was was on the original transmission but at 155,000 miles I had a local shop rebuild the transmission for about 1700 dollars, clutch packs and torque converter were replaced but the shop did not do the pressure sensors and I did not know about these sensors and type F fluid till about a year after the rebuild so I did both, now I have just about nothing on the drain plug magnet. I Just wish I knew about this years ago could of saved hundred of dollars. But oh well better now than never.
Last edited by FollowingNFront; 04-03-2011 at 12:37 AM.
04-03-2011, 01:15 AM
#741
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Read most of this thread (skipped a few pages in the middle).
Two questions:
- Most seem to go straight Racing ATF or in cold climate 2:1 Racing to Lightweight Racing. Wouldn't 50/50 be a bit closer to the OE viscosities?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=568
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=570
- I'm not sure the replacement rates on existing fluid posted earlier (https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=478) are correct.
Doing it straight mathematically, I come up with 70% new/30% old after a 3x3 and 80% new/20% old after a 4x3. Is there some assumption I'm missing?
Two questions:
- Most seem to go straight Racing ATF or in cold climate 2:1 Racing to Lightweight Racing. Wouldn't 50/50 be a bit closer to the OE viscosities?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=568
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=570
- I'm not sure the replacement rates on existing fluid posted earlier (https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=478) are correct.
Doing it straight mathematically, I come up with 70% new/30% old after a 3x3 and 80% new/20% old after a 4x3. Is there some assumption I'm missing?
04-03-2011, 01:26 AM
#742
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I've been reading up on this topic but since I'm not a technical person and only owned my TL for about 2 weeks, I'm still a bit confused.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.
My Automatic 08 TL is 67k and I don't know what kind of tranny fluid it currently has, would it be safe to do a 3x3 with Amsoil ATF (or Redline) or should I stick with Z1??
Also, I live in New England area which is pretty cold most of the year so should I use Amsoil AFT or Redline Racing ATF (Type F).. I also don't race or anything
I just bought the car and have no service record of what the previous owner had done to it, so I just wanted to make sure the car is taken care of properly.
Thank you so much for any inputs.
If it was maintinaed "by the book", it's got the original Z1 Honda fluid in it. Owners Manual doesn't call for that to be changed until ~100k miles.
"Racing" doesn't mean "Racing". It's just a name. Read the linked thread for details.
04-03-2011, 01:30 AM
#743
Read most of this thread (skipped a few pages in the middle).
Two questions:
- Most seem to go straight Racing ATF or in cold climate 2:1 Racing to Lightweight Racing. Wouldn't 50/50 be a bit closer to the OE viscosities?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=568
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=570
- I'm not sure the replacement rates on existing fluid posted earlier (https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=478) are correct.
Doing it straight mathematically, I come up with 70% new/30% old after a 3x3 and 80% new/20% old after a 4x3. Is there some assumption I'm missing?
Two questions:
- Most seem to go straight Racing ATF or in cold climate 2:1 Racing to Lightweight Racing. Wouldn't 50/50 be a bit closer to the OE viscosities?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=568
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=570
- I'm not sure the replacement rates on existing fluid posted earlier (https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=478) are correct.
Doing it straight mathematically, I come up with 70% new/30% old after a 3x3 and 80% new/20% old after a 4x3. Is there some assumption I'm missing?
04-03-2011, 01:49 AM
#744
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I can say I have a 2003 Accord Coupe V6 5AT and i did the switches and Amsoil super shift type F fluid and it made a major difference to it, way better shifting night and day plus my double bump going into drive went away. So i can confirm that it works very good in the accord. I also did the same for My 2007 Acura TL Base with the same positive results as the accord just not as major since the Accord has 182,000 mils on it and the TL has 51,000.
04-03-2011, 01:57 AM
#745
It should be I'd assume. From what I understand from a reliable source (NVA-AV6), the TL and Accord trannys are exactly the same mechanically
04-03-2011, 02:21 AM
#746
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Here is my post showing the math work for percentages if you want to compare the math work (click here).
Here are the refill percentages below as I have calculated it.
1= 40%
2= 65%
3= 79%
4= 87%
5= 92%
6= 96%
7= 97%
8= 98%
9= 99%
10= 99.5%
Note - These percentages are for the Base 5AT TL. The Type-S 5AT might differ.
04-03-2011, 10:58 AM
#747
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My wife and I (read: her) are taking possession of an 06 TL with only 37K miles at the end of the month, so I don't have any experience with the shift quality at this time. However, I have read numerous posts of the "Type-F Diaries" and am convinced that I will be doing flushes soon after we get home. My only concern with removing too much of the Z1 junk is that the shift quality while cold will become too firm. Some have commented on this for cold shifts. If I were the primary driver, it would not be an issue, but since it will be my wife, it may become one. Typical driving on her car is mostly short runs. We do have plenty of mornings over the whole winter where we start off the day at 28 degrees or so. I am thinking that I will try for a 2 or 3x3 with type F and then evaluate over time. As you say, this will be approx 20% of FM loaded fluid and will hopefully still give the "right combination" of cold shift and longevity. I guess that my question is, does anyone else have this concern or is it really a nonissue?
04-03-2011, 12:56 PM
#748
Team Owner
My wife and I (read: her) are taking possession of an 06 TL with only 37K miles at the end of the month, so I don't have any experience with the shift quality at this time. However, I have read numerous posts of the "Type-F Diaries" and am convinced that I will be doing flushes soon after we get home. My only concern with removing too much of the Z1 junk is that the shift quality while cold will become too firm. Some have commented on this for cold shifts. If I were the primary driver, it would not be an issue, but since it will be my wife, it may become one. Typical driving on her car is mostly short runs. We do have plenty of mornings over the whole winter where we start off the day at 28 degrees or so. I am thinking that I will try for a 2 or 3x3 with type F and then evaluate over time. As you say, this will be approx 20% of FM loaded fluid and will hopefully still give the "right combination" of cold shift and longevity. I guess that my question is, does anyone else have this concern or is it really a nonissue?
I know this isn't an option for you since the wife will be driving mostly but I've noticed that when I manually shift first thing in the morning (to keep rpms below 2,000) the shifts are perfect and can't even be felt.
04-03-2011, 04:24 PM
#750
Yes I did follow the write-up from this site, the transmission is the same from 2003 to 2007 accord as the 04-06 Acura TL very little is different from year to year and Accord to TL.
04-03-2011, 05:07 PM
#751
Team Owner
To answer your question, the only fluid you want to run in your car is the "racing" fluid.
04-03-2011, 06:21 PM
#752
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Hi Bearcat,
Here is my post showing the math work for percentages if you want to compare the math work (click here).
....
Note - These percentages are for the Base 5AT TL. The Type-S 5AT might differ.
Here is my post showing the math work for percentages if you want to compare the math work (click here).
....
Note - These percentages are for the Base 5AT TL. The Type-S 5AT might differ.
I was using 9 qts as "full" instead of 7.4 qts.
Type-S 5AT is 8.1 qts total capacity (according to specs in the OM), so the cooresponding replacement rates for each 3 qts drain/fill would be:
1x3 = 37% replacement fluid
2x3 = 60%
3x3 = 75%
4x3 = 84%
5x3 = 90%
6x3 = 94%
7x3 = 96%
8x3 = 97.5%
9x3 = 98.4%
10x3 = 99.0%
FWIW - '07 Base 5AT total capacity (according to the OM) is 7.9 qts, so the cooresponding replacement rate will be very slightly higher than my list (above) and slightly lower than the post Inaccurate references.
04-03-2011, 09:15 PM
#753
Synthetic is nice. But much more importantly is the lack of FM in a type f fluid. If you only had the choice of a synthetic Z1 or a Dino type f, the type f would be 100x better. The reason for going with these type f fluids is to get a fluid with no FM. Being a synthetic is just icing on the cake.
To answer your question, the only fluid you want to run in your car is the "racing" fluid.
To answer your question, the only fluid you want to run in your car is the "racing" fluid.
I was just being nervous because I wasn't sure if there would be any damage to my transmission if I just suddently switch straight from Z1 to Racing Type F. But it seems like there won't be any bad side effect
My 08 TL is 67k but I'll just do a one time 3x3 anyway instead of wait until 100k as recommended
I really don't want the Z1 slowly kill my trans.
04-03-2011, 09:17 PM
#754
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"In my experience, the harsher shifts are only the first one to two shifts in the morning. Using a mix of the lightweight racing fluid with the regular racing fluid helps this a lot. If your TL is going to be used mostly for short trips and you need it to shift nice right off the bat, on each drain and fill I would do 2 quarts of the lightweight and 1 quart of the regular weight."
IHC: Thanks for the reply. I appreciate being able to tap into your knowledge and experience.
IHC: Thanks for the reply. I appreciate being able to tap into your knowledge and experience.
04-04-2011, 12:24 AM
#755
So I just got a REALLY good deal on 12 qts of Redline Racing and 3 qts of Lightweight from a very kind person. That's enough for 5 D&Rs! Although it does not go completely hand in hand with my 2 Racing:1 Lightweight ratio, all I'd need is to add is 6 more Lightweight and 6 more Racing in there at a later date (maybe next year with the way my budget is) while I continue D&Rs until I hit 9. I'm so happy! Lol I sound like a girl
04-04-2011, 12:44 AM
#756
Team Owner
So I just got a REALLY good deal on 12 qts of Redline Racing and 3 qts of Lightweight from a very kind person. That's enough for 5 D&Rs! Although it does not go completely hand in hand with my 2 Racing:1 Lightweight ratio, all I'd need is to add is 6 more Lightweight and 6 more Racing in there at a later date (maybe next year with the way my budget is) while I continue D&Rs until I hit 9. I'm so happy! Lol I sound like a girl
04-04-2011, 12:48 AM
#757
You really don't need to do that many lol. You could do all of your drain and fills with racing and on your final fill, do all lightweight which will put you very close to factory viscosity. When you're done with all of these drains and fills you can probably go 100000 miles before the next one.
04-04-2011, 12:58 AM
#758
Moderator
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i bought the 12 pack and did 4 drain and fills and im satisfied with that.
04-04-2011, 01:06 AM
#759
Youre right it is alot of money... Which is why I'm so ecstatic at the deal I just got on 15 qts... But according to the calculations, 9 D&Rs is what it takes to get all the Z1 out. If I only do 5 D&Rs, cant the amount of remaining Z1 still cause a little wear over time? (even though at 5 D&Rs, I'd have something like 90% Redline in there, and only 10% Z1)
04-04-2011, 01:07 AM
#760
Team Owner
It definitely won't hurt but after number 4 its not as cost effective. If you really want to have 100% new fluid it would be cheaper and easier to use the cooler line method which will only take 9 or less quarts and will give you 100% new.