SpiderX1016

Just checking in, I'm at 1,700 miles.
I still have those symptoms in the cold but other than that, it's been pretty good so far.

Inaccurate

pohljm,

Welcome aboard! Glad that you joined us

pohljm

well i figure it will be a month or so before i officially join! want to run the Z1 for about 1500 miles to get the break in material out. Still not 100% convinced, but there really is no alternative solution

AWDream

i've got an 08 tl-s with 90k on it. i doubt the fluid had ever been changed prior to my 3x3 flush yesterday. I did the pressure switches as well (much more of a pain than it looks like for an 04-06).

I had lots of material on the magnetic drain plug the first drain/fill. drove it around the block for a few minutes between flushes.

I never experienced any issues, but between the fluid (redline type f lightweight/racing atf mix 2 lightweight, 1 regular weight) and the switches, the car seems to shift faster, firmer, and with more confidence.

very glad i did this.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

Shinoda,

I was in the same boat as you a while back and after doing quite a bit of research, reading up on the forums and also talking to several dealership service techs, I concluded the following:

• Do NOT do a flush. Only do drain and fills. By "flush" I am referring to the use of a machine forcing all the fluid out of the transmission. This can be harmful, especially when you have very old fluid in the trans.
• Several Acura tech recommended to me that it was safest to do a single drain and fill and then wait a few weeks and then do a second drain and fill. Wait a few more weeks and then do a third drain and fill. Others will argue that there is no benefit to this, but I figured there's no harm so why take chances since this does appear to offer a bit of safetly in changing the fluid ratio gradually instead of "shocking" the trans.
• Use Redline fluid (or something without much friction modifier). Based on this thread, the Honda-Z1 has too much friction modifier and causes too much wear on the transmission.

I personally did my first two drain and fills with Honda-Z1, but then did my 3rd with Redline Racing (2 qts) and Lightweight Racing (1qt). I wish I had done all three with the Redline mixture, but this thread was new at the time and I was a little bit uneasy about it. For me I did this at 90k miles and had never touched the transmission fluid prior to that, so you are in the same boat as me. Since then I truly feel like I have a new transmission. I have almost 140k miles now and my transmission still shifts significantly better than it did before I started swapping out the fluids. Since 90k, I have two more drain and fills with Redline about every (15k to 20k). That will be my plan moving forward.

BTW, I haven chosen to use the Racing/Lightweight Racing 2:1 blend to lower the viscosity because I live in a cold climate. Those in warmer climates will say that using just straight up Redline Racing is fine. I don't know for sure, but I am happy with this blend.

Shinoda

Thanks! I decided to use the Redline D4 at first. I will slowly introduce it then I will move onto the Redline Racing down the road sometime. I also live in a colder climate(Pittsburgh) so I might even go your route with the light weight racing fluid as well.

Thanks for the help!

I hate cars

There's no need to do D4 first, its wasting money. Just start with the racing fluid and give it a week or so between fills.

Hacura

I'm planning on doing a 2x1 with Racing and finish it off with a 1x1 of the lightweight. I did a 3x3 with D4 last summer so this next series will put me at 6x and hopefully that will be fine for 20k miles. I could've waited a little longer but my objective is to get as much of the Z1 out as possible.

Does the Type-S need to have the pressure switches done?

AWDream

i did them for piece of mind. the type s has 3 switches that should be replaced- 2x 3rd gear switches (one on the top/back of the trans, between the heater core hoses, the other under the trans mount- HUGE pain to get to) and 1 4th gear switch. the 4th gear switch is located on the very bottom of the front of the trans, that can be accessed by pulling back the splash shield in the wheel well, and the underpan attached to the front bumper.

better safe than sorry.

da718saila

I've got a question. I have searched around the threads to see if anyone used an oil extractor to drain their ATF. There was a mention of it but nothing else came out of it. I have one laying around the house and was wondering if it's safe to do. I really can't work on my car in my apartment complex and it seems like the easiest way to do it without getting to a lift.

Hacura

I read that in another thread also a while back. Since the TL-S tranny is from the bulletproof RL, and I've only got 20k miles, I'll wait until after 50k or so to do the switches.

I'm usually a "better safe than sorry" personality but I haven't read enough to know if it warrants a change this soon and if people are experiencing noticeable differences on the Type-S.

Hacura

AFAIK, Honda advises not to use the extractor method and perform simple drain/refills.

AWDream

That's my understanding too, that the 07/08 TL-S trans. is more similar to the RL transmissions, and significantly stronger. If I had 20k, I wouldn't be worried either. My car has 90k, and I wanted to take the preventative route. Piece of mind if nothing else

But, boy what a pain to access those switches to actually change them. I noticed a difference in shift quality (firmer, faster shifts) after, but I did a 3x3 fluid change to Redline ATF at the same time as the switches, so I can't attest which contributed to the change in feel.

Schulminator

iTrader: (2)

Got my racing ATF, going to do the 1st change this weekend and then do the other 2 changes each weekend for the next 2 weeks. I already have the pressure sensors switched out. I post back with my results.

cmoy1122

Hey everyone, i recently just purchased some redline racing atf for my 04 tl with 55k miles and was wondering if i install a transmission cooler at the same time what kind of a mix should i use because its going to be more fluid.

I was planning to do a 2 redline racing atf with 1 lightweight racing atf because im in NYC. If i install the cooler should i add more lightweight racing atf or racing atf?
I read that with it would take about 1 more quart of fluid with a filter in place.
Thanks

FirePR2002

to all you guys smarter than me, I just did a 3 x 3 (9 quarts) of redline racing (30304) in my 2g tl that was previously running z1. switches sometime this week or weekend. i have 3 quarts of the 30304 fluid left and was thinking another round (1 X 3) when i do the switches, but would it be smarter to sub in the light weight racing fluid instead?

Inaccurate

^ Because you already have 3 qts of redline racing (30304) remaining, go ahead and use that on the next refill when you do the switches. No reason to waste those 3 remaining qts.

When you do your next engine oil change (or sooner if you feel like), do a final ATF refill using 3 qts of the Lightweight (PN# 30314).

You are correct in thinking that you should make your final refill with the Lightweight (PN# 30314).

FirePR2002

well, i just changed the oil, which will most likely put me in mid to late summer for the next time its due - fairly hot temps. in GA. i get what you're saying. perhaps the question was better asked this way: should I have at least 3 qts. of the lightweight fluid by the time those higher temps get here?

I hate cars

You'll be fine in the GA climate with straight racing or a mix. Right now you have a thicker than stock viscosity. With a drain and fill of lightweight you will be very close to stock viscosity.

Having a mix of lightweight becomes more important in the winter and less important in the summer.

FWIW, I ran straight "racing" fluid for all summer and most of the winter, Inaccurate runs pure lightweight racing for summer and winter. All of our climates are somewhat similar and none of us have had any issues. I wouldn't over think it unless you lived up north where it gets really cold.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

And that is why I chose to use 2qts Racing 1qt Lightweight for my drain and fills. I live in Chicago with very cold winters and I have been very pleased with my ATF even on the coldest days this winter.

winkyyy

Is it safe to run Type F Fluid in a 2006 V6 Accord? My cousin needs to change his tranny fluid and I was just wondering if its safe to run it cause both motors are J series.

Da Answer

Hey guys, I'm not trying to change the conversation or go off topic but I wanted to know what is best way to go. Should I perform the 3x3 procedure and then change the transmission filter long with the pressure switches? Or should I change the filter and switches before the 3x3? The reason I ask is because I read there is some transmission fluid loss and I thought that may be a problem. I'm also concerned that if I replace the filter first before anything, that it will get dirty quicker because the old fluid will pass through it. Suggestions please?

Da Answer

Never mind, I'll just do a 2x3, change the filter and switches and then perform the last drain and fill.

Anyway, Great thread!

408fab

Hi everyone! I'm a newbie to Acurazine as you can tell. I just did a flush on my 08 TL-S using I Hate Cars' tranny cooler method as well as changing all three pressure switches. I didn't have any issues with shudder before changing the switches but decided its cheap insurance. I replaced my tranny fluid with Redline Racing Lightweight and I have noticed a definite improvement in shift feel and firmness. Eventhough there was nothing wrong with the way my transmission operated previously, changing to the Redline gives the car a completely different driving personality. Thanks for the good info!!

redzuan

Did a 3x3 Redline Racing ATF yesterday. I drive like grandma most of the time so I haven't seen much a different. The old Z1 sure was black after only 10K miles on it. I put them last summer. Will update this post.

redzuan

The car sure pickup speed really good on the freeway. It jumps so quick when you floor it, and is a lot smoother.

What do you expected? This is an ester-based syntatic oil!

On surface streets I drive slow, so I don't see much a different; even tho I do notice it is abit smoother.

Anyhow I am happy camper now.

mrlal8

iTrader: (2)

im on my phone and cant go through all the pages..anyone have a link to where to order this from..i live in jersey so im thinking i should go with 2 lightweight and 1 racing?

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^i went with 2 racing, and 1 lightweight for each drain/fill.

i'm in baltimore, MD...so we have similar seasons. amazon has decent deals, but i got mine from a local shop in baltimore to beat shipping charges.

also check eBay, and just google around and see if any local places have it.

mrlal8

iTrader: (2)

i found this a pack of 12 for $131
is this the right product?
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Racin...0136120&sr=8-1

btw my friend did this before the winter season (he lives in new jersey as well real cold weather during winter) he put all type F racing fluid in and did not bother mixing it. His car ran perfectly fine during the winter so I think I will also put all type F fluid in without mixing.

CometVR4

My buddy has a '07 TL Base. He's getting a shudder sometimes when going into gear. I'm thinking about recommending him do this switch over? What do you guys think?

I hate cars

100% for sure. While the fluid will cure the shudder,it's a good idea to do the switches too.

CometVR4

Ok, Thanks for the quick reply, I'll let him know.

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

So for those of us living I'm colder climates for parts of the season what should we do? Run 2:1 lightweight/and type f in the winter then switch to full Type F in the summer where it reaches up to 90-100 here. Or is it okay to run the 2:1 year round?

mrlal8

iTrader: (2)

my friend ran 100% type F in new jersey even during the winter...I will do the same

pohljm

Check out "outdoor pros" a case is 106.35 and you can get a $5 off coupon if you search for outdoor pros coupons!
you will need to pay for shipping but its still cheaper

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

How cold does it get around the NJ area? Here in MN we get pretty cold hit -50 F in winters sometimes.

I'll be doing the 3rd and 4th gear switches and the switch from D4 to Type F

mrlal8

iTrader: (2)

haha nevermind u shud probably mix lol we dont go into the negatives much

Buda

iTrader: (1)

I would mix as well. I used to live in Eden Prairie for almost 5 years so I know what you all go through up there (which is why I only come up to visit in the summer).

dsquire

Thanks to everyone here for the research and good work on this topic.
I have a '07 Type S with 50K. Just did a 3X3 where I used 2 parts Mobil-1 and 1 part Redline Type F.
Car runs much smoother at highway speeds, shifts are crisp at all speeds - nice improvement.
Will continue with this mix.

BostonSilverTypeS

quick update on my transmission situation for....I few months ago I posted about transmission shudder and whole ordeal about trying to get new trans out of it, since it was still under warranty....

long story short went with gut instinct and replaced oem z1 with fresh z1 for warranty purposes. Did that and all thru winter drove okay till recently.... so here where it's weird while driving now instead of shudder hard shift from 2nd into 3rd I get major slip as it seems when i shift to 3rd it just revs up like im in neutral and then it grabs. I managed to get that to do consistently and my other issue was at times I get flares from 2nd to 3rd as well and also it will not let me go into manual mode and shift manually, alsmost like its in safety mode, but no faults and when left in D mode it will only shift to 3rd and not to 4th or 5th gear...very weird and never seen on here with someone with same issue....so only way to get it to go into manual mode again is shut vehicle off and then it goes back to normal as far as that but not the slipping part...That is pretty consistent.....

So the good news is since I work close to the Acura dealer and had the shop foreman's number I was out on lunch and got it to do it so drove straight there and finally showed him in person what was happening. He was also amazed as he never seen this before, so now at least he is fully aware and they will get a snap shop with HDS and send it to Acura engineers. So something will be fixed this time or car won't be coming back home to me....

so this is great news as I would get a new tranny and right away I could add the TypeF Redline fluid in there and have no more issues tranny wise which has been my only problem so far with my car which is at roughly 64k now........

Curious to now if anyone has had anything similar to what has happened to my transmission???