Racing ATF
11-20-2010, 09:21 PM
#441
Three Wheelin'
Im ready to tackle the job tomorrow ! 
. Since I live in an Apartment i never bothered doing my own maintenance. But i do have a garage parking spot and nobody has a problem with me doing little things like minor performance modifications..So i said if i can do that why not do the whole thing since my mechanic seems to be busy most of the time. So i went today and bought myself a Jack two stands and one of those creepers.
Just some questions before i begin...
Does the car need to be level or at least close to it when draining the transmission fluid... when i raise the front end, since it is going to be at a little incline is that a problem? I have only two jack stands.
and when im ready to poor new fluid, since I'm going to mix 2 qt of type f racing with one quart lightweight racing, which order should i poor them in ? and how much do i poor in before i check the amount needed.
Also i only have the fluid ready.(9qt at total).. I didnt get any washers and such... is anything else needed... The car has 33 000 miles.
Is it ok if i do the 3x3 routine in a 3 month period, having the fluid changed every month one time.
and of course any hints i should look out for....
thanks for your help everyone.
. Since I live in an Apartment i never bothered doing my own maintenance. But i do have a garage parking spot and nobody has a problem with me doing little things like minor performance modifications..So i said if i can do that why not do the whole thing since my mechanic seems to be busy most of the time. So i went today and bought myself a Jack two stands and one of those creepers. Just some questions before i begin...
Does the car need to be level or at least close to it when draining the transmission fluid... when i raise the front end, since it is going to be at a little incline is that a problem? I have only two jack stands.
and when im ready to poor new fluid, since I'm going to mix 2 qt of type f racing with one quart lightweight racing, which order should i poor them in ? and how much do i poor in before i check the amount needed.
Also i only have the fluid ready.(9qt at total).. I didnt get any washers and such... is anything else needed... The car has 33 000 miles.
Is it ok if i do the 3x3 routine in a 3 month period, having the fluid changed every month one time.
and of course any hints i should look out for....
thanks for your help everyone.
11-20-2010, 09:28 PM
#442
Team Owner
Im ready to tackle the job tomorrow ! . Since I live in an Apartment i never bothered doing my own maintenance. But i do have a garage parking spot and nobody has a problem with me doing little things like minor performance modifications..So i said if i can do that why not do the whole thing since my mechanic seems to be busy most of the time. So i went today and bought myself a Jack two stands and one of those creepers.
Just some questions before i begin...
Does the car need to be level or at least close to it when draining the transmission fluid... when i raise the front end, since it is going to be at a little incline is that a problem? I have only two jack stands.
and when im ready to poor new fluid, since I'm going to mix 2 qt of type f racing with one quart lightweight racing, which order should i poor them in ? and how much do i poor in before i check the amount needed.
Also i only have the fluid ready.(9qt at total).. I didnt get any washers and such... is anything else needed... The car has 33 000 miles.
Is it ok if i do the 3x3 routine in a 3 month period, having the fluid changed every month one time.
and of course any hints i should look out for....
thanks for your help everyone.
. Since I live in an Apartment i never bothered doing my own maintenance. But i do have a garage parking spot and nobody has a problem with me doing little things like minor performance modifications..So i said if i can do that why not do the whole thing since my mechanic seems to be busy most of the time. So i went today and bought myself a Jack two stands and one of those creepers. Just some questions before i begin...
Does the car need to be level or at least close to it when draining the transmission fluid... when i raise the front end, since it is going to be at a little incline is that a problem? I have only two jack stands.
and when im ready to poor new fluid, since I'm going to mix 2 qt of type f racing with one quart lightweight racing, which order should i poor them in ? and how much do i poor in before i check the amount needed.
Also i only have the fluid ready.(9qt at total).. I didnt get any washers and such... is anything else needed... The car has 33 000 miles.
Is it ok if i do the 3x3 routine in a 3 month period, having the fluid changed every month one time.
and of course any hints i should look out for....
thanks for your help everyone.
Car should be close to level so you get as much fluid out as possible. If it's slanted, try and get the slant toward the drain plug.
If you're mixing 2-1, it doesn't matter which fluid you put in first as long as you mix with each drain and fill.
I've never replaced any washers even on the engine oil drain plug.
A 1x3 one month at a time is fine. After you do the 3x3 you probably won't have to worry about doing it again for a very long time as long as you use the racing fluid.
11-20-2010, 09:38 PM
#443
Three Wheelin'
Minimum height on the Stands is 13.5 " I guess at almost the end of draining i could take out the stands to get the most fluid out. But what if I get more then 3 qt out. then the 3x3 wont work
11-20-2010, 11:00 PM
#444
Team Owner
I've done a ton of drains and fills and for some reason I can't remember this for sure but I think the plug is located toward the rear of the trans so having it up on stands will be fine. Even if it's on an incline, you're going to get 95% of the fluid in the sump out.
Quite honetsly you could do the first drain and fill, start it up and run it for a minute shifting into 1st, 2nd, and reverse a few times and then drain and fill again without taking the car off the stands.
Running the engine alone without driving will pump the old fluid out of the convertor and into the sump. This is the vast majority of the fluid that's trapped in the trans and not in the sump. The additional fluid stuck in some of the circuits and accumulators is a very small percentage. This trapped fluid will only come out by driving and having the trans shift through all gears a few times including convertor lockup. Driving it is pretty important but on the first drain and fill since there will be such a huge majority of old fluid still in there it's not absolutely necessary that you drive it but instead just start it for a minute or two.
11-20-2010, 11:45 PM
#445
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I think the ATF drain plug is more toward the front of the trans. When draining my ATF on level ground, I always lower the jack to allow another two cups of fluid to drain out.
If I was to do the ATF drain on an incline, I would want the car facing toward the downward slope.
If I was to do the ATF drain on an incline, I would want the car facing toward the downward slope.
11-21-2010, 01:21 AM
#446
Team Owner
I think the ATF drain plug is more toward the front of the trans. When draining my ATF on level ground, I always lower the jack to allow another two cups of fluid to drain out.
If I was to do the ATF drain on an incline, I would want the car facing toward the downward slope.
If I was to do the ATF drain on an incline, I would want the car facing toward the downward slope.
11-21-2010, 01:50 AM
#447
Safety Car
Thread Starter
As we do something more often, it requires less and less thought (second nature). The only reason I remember is because of my extra step in doing a drain, where I lower the jack.
11-21-2010, 03:47 PM
#448
Intermediate
The fluid is very thin, similar to the Z1, much thinner than the generic dexIII that I had been using before. I got the transmisson back to a semi-working state by 1x3 with a polymer based engine oil conditioner.
Maybe the main problem with my transmisson is worn pump and lack of pressure and not just worn clutches. I started getting spurious short free revs going 2->3 after I did 1x3 with Z1 about month ago (as it was told to be THE fluid for Hondas on every site), that led me to more research and this thread, but maybe it was caused by the thicknes decrease and not the abundant FM. The Amsoil type F pack is due to arrive tomorow, I'm curious how it will work.
11-21-2010, 06:18 PM
#449
Team Owner
This fluid is unusable in my car, the shifts take like 5sec, with the engine free reving if I tap the throtle before the shift is finished.
The fluid is very thin, similar to the Z1, much thinner than the generic dexIII that I had been using before. I got the transmisson back to a semi-working state by 1x3 with a polymer based engine oil conditioner.
Maybe the main problem with my transmisson is worn pump and lack of pressure and not just worn clutches. I started getting spurious short free revs going 2->3 after I did 1x3 with Z1 about month ago (as it was told to be THE fluid for Hondas on every site), that led me to more research and this thread, but maybe it was caused by the thicknes decrease and not the abundant FM. The Amsoil type F pack is due to arrive tomorow, I'm curious how it will work.
The fluid is very thin, similar to the Z1, much thinner than the generic dexIII that I had been using before. I got the transmisson back to a semi-working state by 1x3 with a polymer based engine oil conditioner.
Maybe the main problem with my transmisson is worn pump and lack of pressure and not just worn clutches. I started getting spurious short free revs going 2->3 after I did 1x3 with Z1 about month ago (as it was told to be THE fluid for Hondas on every site), that led me to more research and this thread, but maybe it was caused by the thicknes decrease and not the abundant FM. The Amsoil type F pack is due to arrive tomorow, I'm curious how it will work.
If it's a viscosity issue, you trans should work perfectly until it gets near working temp.
The Type F designation has nothing to do with viscosity, only with the add pack and the lack of FM. It can be dino, synthetic, thick, thin, etc as long as it has no FM.
11-21-2010, 09:08 PM
#450
Three Wheelin'
OK did it today and Im amazed by the difference it made. Even though i only did one drain and fill for now,the difference feels like night and day ! cant wait to do the other two.
The only thing that gave me trouble was when i took out the filling bolt i dropped the washer and i couldn't find it for like 20-30 minutes, made it kinda frustrating! but then fortunately my friend walked by and saw me working and he looked at it for like 10 sec maybe and saw it I could not believe it !! Imagine !! I was like maaaan you saved my day !!
After that everything went pretty smooth, I drained almost 3 quarts and as it was said before when i lowered the car to the ground some more came out. so that was a good move.
I used to think my car shifted pretty smooth until i changed to this new oil, now its so much smoother, i cant even feel it engaging gears. The best thing was when i downshifted from 4th to 3rd to about maybe 4500-5000 Rpm's, it was unnoticeable, you just see the needle move up. Before it would always feel like i was putting some kinda strain on the transmission and the motor. Now its just quick and smooth i guess.
Even when i was filling the new oil it looked so good, has an amazing color to it
I wanna thank inaccurate and IHC very much for recommending this. amazing stuff.
oh yeah. while working under the car i noticed that one of the bolts was missing from the J-pipe i had installed at some shop. and i fixed that too. my car sounded differently after that but not buy much but definitively less drone, maybe it was leaking a little bit so i fixed that too. Talk about doing things on you own
the car feels great and yes, very recommended.
thanx again.
The only thing that gave me trouble was when i took out the filling bolt i dropped the washer and i couldn't find it for like 20-30 minutes, made it kinda frustrating! but then fortunately my friend walked by and saw me working and he looked at it for like 10 sec maybe and saw it
I could not believe it !! Imagine !! I was like maaaan you saved my day !! After that everything went pretty smooth, I drained almost 3 quarts and as it was said before when i lowered the car to the ground some more came out. so that was a good move.
I used to think my car shifted pretty smooth until i changed to this new oil, now its so much smoother, i cant even feel it engaging gears. The best thing was when i downshifted from 4th to 3rd to about maybe 4500-5000 Rpm's, it was unnoticeable, you just see the needle move up. Before it would always feel like i was putting some kinda strain on the transmission and the motor. Now its just quick and smooth i guess.
Even when i was filling the new oil it looked so good, has an amazing color to it
I wanna thank inaccurate and IHC very much for recommending this. amazing stuff.
oh yeah. while working under the car i noticed that one of the bolts was missing from the J-pipe i had installed at some shop. and i fixed that too. my car sounded differently after that but not buy much but definitively less drone, maybe it was leaking a little bit so i fixed that too. Talk about doing things on you own
the car feels great and yes, very recommended.
thanx again.
11-22-2010, 08:48 AM
#451
HE>i
iTrader: (1)
2qts lightweight racing and 4qts racing. ordered from JEGSOrder Details
QtyPart NumberItemPriceTotal2 816-30314
Red Line Oil 30314 - Red Line Lightweight Racing ATF
Racing lightweight ATF 1 Quart
$10.99 $21.98 4 816-30304
Red Line Oil 30304 - TCI Competition Transmissions
Automatic Transmission Fluid Racing ATF
1 Quart
$10.99 $43.96
Subtotal:
$65.94
Handling:
$9.99
Shipping:
$0.00
Delivery Area Surcharge:
$2.50
Total:
$78.43
11-24-2010, 02:59 PM
#452
6th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Age: 42
Posts: 6
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Redline D4
I have been following this thread for several months but never posted... So I figured it was time I would add my two cents.
Ahh the saga of the Honda transmission. I recently purchased a 03 Accord EX-L v6 in which the transmission failed just a week after I picked the car up at 89k miles. It started as a 2-3 flair and ended with no 3rd gear at all. The dealer was awesome though and replaced the transmission at no cost to me.
I have since done a 3x4 to Redline D4 on the replacement transmission and have noticed some changes. Some good.. some a little disturbing.
Generally speaking I like the way the transmission acts on the D4. Shifting while cold is slightly harsh but once warmed up its smooth as silk. Which brings me to one of my concerns. After warm-up it seems like it takes the clutches longer to fully engage after a shift then it did before. This is not a flair.. but for example.. if a 3-4 shift under light to moderate throttle happens at 4500 rpm.. the rpms will immediately drop to 3000 but then continue to fall too 2850 or so over a period of 1 - 2 seconds. This is at the very tail end of the shift. Likewise if I stay on the throttle maybe 50 - 60% and it shifts.. again using 4500 as an example.. the rpm will again immediately drop to 3000 but hang there for a second before starting back up as the car accelerates. This happens most noticeably on the 3 - 4 shift and only once the transmission is fully warmed up. I don't know if what I am seeing is actual clutch slip or something with the TQ lockup routine but I wouldn't think lockup would be occurring at that time and shouldn't be between shifts during acceleration.
Another thing I notice that no one mentioned that I saw is the smell! The D4 stinks out of the bottle.. but when I come to a stop and the vent is on I get a really good whiff up into the cabin. I thought maybe this was just burning off the transmission from some splatters but I took a 1600 mile round trip and its still there. Everyone I ask thats running redline says they have no smell. I have no leaks.. and as far as I can tell its coming out of the transmission vent. Little concerned that there is a possibility that the transmission is running hot and thus causing more vapor. Fluid looks fine and is not burned.
Any advice, experiences or knowledge is greatly appreciated.
P.S. A - B solenoid clutch pressure adjustment.. worth looking into? I find it hard for myself to know there is anything adjustable and keep my hands off of it.
Ahh the saga of the Honda transmission. I recently purchased a 03 Accord EX-L v6 in which the transmission failed just a week after I picked the car up at 89k miles. It started as a 2-3 flair and ended with no 3rd gear at all. The dealer was awesome though and replaced the transmission at no cost to me.
I have since done a 3x4 to Redline D4 on the replacement transmission and have noticed some changes. Some good.. some a little disturbing.
Generally speaking I like the way the transmission acts on the D4. Shifting while cold is slightly harsh but once warmed up its smooth as silk. Which brings me to one of my concerns. After warm-up it seems like it takes the clutches longer to fully engage after a shift then it did before. This is not a flair.. but for example.. if a 3-4 shift under light to moderate throttle happens at 4500 rpm.. the rpms will immediately drop to 3000 but then continue to fall too 2850 or so over a period of 1 - 2 seconds. This is at the very tail end of the shift. Likewise if I stay on the throttle maybe 50 - 60% and it shifts.. again using 4500 as an example.. the rpm will again immediately drop to 3000 but hang there for a second before starting back up as the car accelerates. This happens most noticeably on the 3 - 4 shift and only once the transmission is fully warmed up. I don't know if what I am seeing is actual clutch slip or something with the TQ lockup routine but I wouldn't think lockup would be occurring at that time and shouldn't be between shifts during acceleration.
Another thing I notice that no one mentioned that I saw is the smell! The D4 stinks out of the bottle.. but when I come to a stop and the vent is on I get a really good whiff up into the cabin. I thought maybe this was just burning off the transmission from some splatters but I took a 1600 mile round trip and its still there. Everyone I ask thats running redline says they have no smell. I have no leaks.. and as far as I can tell its coming out of the transmission vent. Little concerned that there is a possibility that the transmission is running hot and thus causing more vapor. Fluid looks fine and is not burned.
Any advice, experiences or knowledge is greatly appreciated.
P.S. A - B solenoid clutch pressure adjustment.. worth looking into? I find it hard for myself to know there is anything adjustable and keep my hands off of it.
11-24-2010, 03:14 PM
#453
Team Owner
I have been following this thread for several months but never posted... So I figured it was time I would add my two cents.
Ahh the saga of the Honda transmission. I recently purchased a 03 Accord EX-L v6 in which the transmission failed just a week after I picked the car up at 89k miles. It started as a 2-3 flair and ended with no 3rd gear at all. The dealer was awesome though and replaced the transmission at no cost to me.
I have since done a 3x4 to Redline D4 on the replacement transmission and have noticed some changes. Some good.. some a little disturbing.
Generally speaking I like the way the transmission acts on the D4. Shifting while cold is slightly harsh but once warmed up its smooth as silk. Which brings me to one of my concerns. After warm-up it seems like it takes the clutches longer to fully engage after a shift then it did before. This is not a flair.. but for example.. if a 3-4 shift under light to moderate throttle happens at 4500 rpm.. the rpms will immediately drop to 3000 but then continue to fall too 2850 or so over a period of 1 - 2 seconds. This is at the very tail end of the shift. Likewise if I stay on the throttle maybe 50 - 60% and it shifts.. again using 4500 as an example.. the rpm will again immediately drop to 3000 but hang there for a second before starting back up as the car accelerates. This happens most noticeably on the 3 - 4 shift and only once the transmission is fully warmed up. I don't know if what I am seeing is actual clutch slip or something with the TQ lockup routine but I wouldn't think lockup would be occurring at that time and shouldn't be between shifts during acceleration.
Another thing I notice that no one mentioned that I saw is the smell! The D4 stinks out of the bottle.. but when I come to a stop and the vent is on I get a really good whiff up into the cabin. I thought maybe this was just burning off the transmission from some splatters but I took a 1600 mile round trip and its still there. Everyone I ask thats running redline says they have no smell. I have no leaks.. and as far as I can tell its coming out of the transmission vent. Little concerned that there is a possibility that the transmission is running hot and thus causing more vapor. Fluid looks fine and is not burned.
Any advice, experiences or knowledge is greatly appreciated.
P.S. A - B solenoid clutch pressure adjustment.. worth looking into? I find it hard for myself to know there is anything adjustable and keep my hands off of it.
Ahh the saga of the Honda transmission. I recently purchased a 03 Accord EX-L v6 in which the transmission failed just a week after I picked the car up at 89k miles. It started as a 2-3 flair and ended with no 3rd gear at all. The dealer was awesome though and replaced the transmission at no cost to me.
I have since done a 3x4 to Redline D4 on the replacement transmission and have noticed some changes. Some good.. some a little disturbing.
Generally speaking I like the way the transmission acts on the D4. Shifting while cold is slightly harsh but once warmed up its smooth as silk. Which brings me to one of my concerns. After warm-up it seems like it takes the clutches longer to fully engage after a shift then it did before. This is not a flair.. but for example.. if a 3-4 shift under light to moderate throttle happens at 4500 rpm.. the rpms will immediately drop to 3000 but then continue to fall too 2850 or so over a period of 1 - 2 seconds. This is at the very tail end of the shift. Likewise if I stay on the throttle maybe 50 - 60% and it shifts.. again using 4500 as an example.. the rpm will again immediately drop to 3000 but hang there for a second before starting back up as the car accelerates. This happens most noticeably on the 3 - 4 shift and only once the transmission is fully warmed up. I don't know if what I am seeing is actual clutch slip or something with the TQ lockup routine but I wouldn't think lockup would be occurring at that time and shouldn't be between shifts during acceleration.
Another thing I notice that no one mentioned that I saw is the smell! The D4 stinks out of the bottle.. but when I come to a stop and the vent is on I get a really good whiff up into the cabin. I thought maybe this was just burning off the transmission from some splatters but I took a 1600 mile round trip and its still there. Everyone I ask thats running redline says they have no smell. I have no leaks.. and as far as I can tell its coming out of the transmission vent. Little concerned that there is a possibility that the transmission is running hot and thus causing more vapor. Fluid looks fine and is not burned.
Any advice, experiences or knowledge is greatly appreciated.
P.S. A - B solenoid clutch pressure adjustment.. worth looking into? I find it hard for myself to know there is anything adjustable and keep my hands off of it.
Replace the 3rd and 4th gear switches asap. This is what caused your old trans to fail in the first place and these usually get transferred to the new units. This is why the new transmissions usually fail quicker than the first.
The switches affect cold shifts a lot. They affect downshift harshness and they effect shift timing and feel.
I would have gone with the Redline Racing fluid as it will greatly improve shifts over D4 along with less wear.
The gradual engagement in 4th and 5th is probably the convertor clutch and normal but I'll get into more detail later.
With Redline being an ester with a super low NOACK value, if you're getting it hot enough to cause noticable vapor from the breather, something is seriously wrong. It's proabably something burning off after the change.
11-24-2010, 04:24 PM
#455
6th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Age: 42
Posts: 6
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I have a lot to say but I'm at work so I have to keep it short. I'll go into more detail later.
Replace the 3rd and 4th gear switches asap. This is what caused your old trans to fail in the first place and these usually get transferred to the new units. This is why the new transmissions usually fail quicker than the first.
The switches affect cold shifts a lot. They affect downshift harshness and they effect shift timing and feel.
I would have gone with the Redline Racing fluid as it will greatly improve shifts over D4 along with less wear.
The gradual engagement in 4th and 5th is probably the convertor clutch and normal but I'll get into more detail later.
With Redline being an ester with a super low NOACK value, if you're getting it hot enough to cause noticable vapor from the breather, something is seriously wrong. It's proabably something burning off after the change.
Replace the 3rd and 4th gear switches asap. This is what caused your old trans to fail in the first place and these usually get transferred to the new units. This is why the new transmissions usually fail quicker than the first.
The switches affect cold shifts a lot. They affect downshift harshness and they effect shift timing and feel.
I would have gone with the Redline Racing fluid as it will greatly improve shifts over D4 along with less wear.
The gradual engagement in 4th and 5th is probably the convertor clutch and normal but I'll get into more detail later.
With Redline being an ester with a super low NOACK value, if you're getting it hot enough to cause noticable vapor from the breather, something is seriously wrong. It's proabably something burning off after the change.
The shifting while cold actually feels good. Dont take my use of the word "harsh" as being a bad thing. I checked all the sensors once i got it back.. the switches and solenoids all look brand new. They are inexpensive enough though.. I should just pick new ones up for peace of mind if nothing else. I was a little torn between D4, D6 and the racing fluid myself. I have decided to go all D4 for now and then perhaps start a mix of racing in the future.
As for the smell you may be right... the transmission is not getting THAT hot.. there is no fluid being expelled from the vent tube. I just get a whiff of redline when I stop.. it then quickly dissipates. It only comes in the cabin if the outside vent is open. I can poke my nose under the hood w/o smelling anything its not like its that bad. I'll wash it down and see if it goes away.
11-24-2010, 07:16 PM
#457
Burning Brakes
Okay so I been meaning to do this Redline racing fluid, but time has been my enemy, long story short I started to recently feel the shudder when 3rd shift into 4th on light acceleration...I have roughly 62k on the car and since I still have warranty covered on transmission I brought to the dealer and explained what I'm getting. I was trying to see if I could get the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches replaced under warranty...Spoke with the foreman and even went on test drive with him to try and duplicate the concern with the laptop hooked up trying to get live snapshots...Since I doesnt do it all the time, we were unable to get it to do it and friday i am going back early morning and go on another test drive to try to get it to do it, I told him about the pressure switches and he said it's possible, but he is going to try and warranty the transmission itself which would be great, since I would get new trans and according to him new pressure switches come with new trans, and that way I can get the Redline fluid in the new trans early in it's life and not worry about this problem in the future....will keep ya'll updated if I do end up getting a new trans or not..
...also funny story when I first went in and complained about this....since the technician could not duplicate concern, he makes BS story saying the shudder im feeling is due to my shitty tires and 2 slightly bent wheels which I am aware of already(lol)...they try to get me to pay for the diagnosing issue since tires/wheels is not warranty issue...I immediately tell them I'm a tech at BMW and I know diffirence between transmission issue and bent wheels which at 30-40mph it would have to be permanent shaking and really bent wheels..LMAO at this point and request to drive with foreman and have him explain how what I'm complaining about is related to wheels/tires, which he could not and then next day I get the call which they said they ordered a new trasmission. WOW really im surprised such a huge change from tires to transmission....so now we trying to duplicate it so they can justify the replacement....
anyway will let yall know what comes out of this....
...also funny story when I first went in and complained about this....since the technician could not duplicate concern, he makes BS story saying the shudder im feeling is due to my shitty tires and 2 slightly bent wheels which I am aware of already(lol)...they try to get me to pay for the diagnosing issue since tires/wheels is not warranty issue...I immediately tell them I'm a tech at BMW and I know diffirence between transmission issue and bent wheels which at 30-40mph it would have to be permanent shaking and really bent wheels..LMAO at this point and request to drive with foreman and have him explain how what I'm complaining about is related to wheels/tires, which he could not and then next day I get the call which they said they ordered a new trasmission. WOW really im surprised such a huge change from tires to transmission....so now we trying to duplicate it so they can justify the replacement....
anyway will let yall know what comes out of this....
11-25-2010, 10:22 AM
#458
6th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Age: 42
Posts: 6
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Okay so I been meaning to do this Redline racing fluid, but time has been my enemy, long story short I started to recently feel the shudder when 3rd shift into 4th on light acceleration...I have roughly 62k on the car and since I still have warranty covered on transmission I brought to the dealer and explained what I'm getting. I was trying to see if I could get the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches replaced under warranty...Spoke with the foreman and even went on test drive with him to try and duplicate the concern with the laptop hooked up trying to get live snapshots...Since I doesnt do it all the time, we were unable to get it to do it and friday i am going back early morning and go on another test drive to try to get it to do it, I told him about the pressure switches and he said it's possible, but he is going to try and warranty the transmission itself which would be great, since I would get new trans and according to him new pressure switches come with new trans, and that way I can get the Redline fluid in the new trans early in it's life and not worry about this problem in the future....will keep ya'll updated if I do end up getting a new trans or not..
...also funny story when I first went in and complained about this....since the technician could not duplicate concern, he makes BS story saying the shudder im feeling is due to my shitty tires and 2 slightly bent wheels which I am aware of already(lol)...they try to get me to pay for the diagnosing issue since tires/wheels is not warranty issue...I immediately tell them I'm a tech at BMW and I know diffirence between transmission issue and bent wheels which at 30-40mph it would have to be permanent shaking and really bent wheels..LMAO at this point and request to drive with foreman and have him explain how what I'm complaining about is related to wheels/tires, which he could not and then next day I get the call which they said they ordered a new trasmission. WOW really im surprised such a huge change from tires to transmission....so now we trying to duplicate it so they can justify the replacement....
anyway will let yall know what comes out of this....
...also funny story when I first went in and complained about this....since the technician could not duplicate concern, he makes BS story saying the shudder im feeling is due to my shitty tires and 2 slightly bent wheels which I am aware of already(lol)...they try to get me to pay for the diagnosing issue since tires/wheels is not warranty issue...I immediately tell them I'm a tech at BMW and I know diffirence between transmission issue and bent wheels which at 30-40mph it would have to be permanent shaking and really bent wheels..LMAO at this point and request to drive with foreman and have him explain how what I'm complaining about is related to wheels/tires, which he could not and then next day I get the call which they said they ordered a new trasmission. WOW really im surprised such a huge change from tires to transmission....so now we trying to duplicate it so they can justify the replacement....
anyway will let yall know what comes out of this....
11-26-2010, 12:52 PM
#459
Originally Posted by hleapha 
1 RD3-0304-12 Red Line Oil Racing ATF - Red Line Oil Racing ATF- Case of 12 Quarts = $101.00
Shipping Rate: $7.75
Subtotal: $108.75
----------------------
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ansmission_Oil
^Thats the price and link for oil (best price anyone's found). I got all the parts for the pressure switches and filter at Delrays www.AcuraOEMparts.com
Here are the parts:
25450-RAY-003 ELEMENT (AT FILTER)
25803-RAY-000 SPRING, PASSAGE (ATF FILTER SPRING)
28600-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (PRESSURE SWITCH)
28610-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (PRESSURE SWITCH)
90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM) X2 (2 CRUSH WASHER)
91301-RAY-004 O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI) (RUBBER ORING FOR ATFILTER)
91302-RAY-003 FILTER, GASKET (RUBBER AT FILTER GASKET)
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM) X2 (2 CRUSHWASHERS)
TOTAL IS $99.XX
Delray lists pressure sensors and AT Filter for '04-'06. The site specifies the year and model next to those parts. I figured I'd respond here instead of the PM b/c it may be useful to others.
RECAP:
Those are all the parts I needed for Filter, 3x3 with Redline Racing (Type F), and 3rd and 4th pressure sensors for an '05 base, models other than '04-'06 base will vary.
1 RD3-0304-12 Red Line Oil Racing ATF - Red Line Oil Racing ATF- Case of 12 Quarts = $101.00
Shipping Rate: $7.75
Subtotal: $108.75
----------------------
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ansmission_Oil
^Thats the price and link for oil (best price anyone's found). I got all the parts for the pressure switches and filter at Delrays www.AcuraOEMparts.com
Here are the parts:
25450-RAY-003 ELEMENT (AT FILTER)
25803-RAY-000 SPRING, PASSAGE (ATF FILTER SPRING)
28600-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (PRESSURE SWITCH)
28610-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (PRESSURE SWITCH)
90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM) X2 (2 CRUSH WASHER)
91301-RAY-004 O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI) (RUBBER ORING FOR ATFILTER)
91302-RAY-003 FILTER, GASKET (RUBBER AT FILTER GASKET)
WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM) X2 (2 CRUSHWASHERS)
TOTAL IS $99.XX
Delray lists pressure sensors and AT Filter for '04-'06. The site specifies the year and model next to those parts. I figured I'd respond here instead of the PM b/c it may be useful to others.
RECAP:
Those are all the parts I needed for Filter, 3x3 with Redline Racing (Type F), and 3rd and 4th pressure sensors for an '05 base, models other than '04-'06 base will vary.
I need Help finding these parts for 2007 TL Base. Can someone help please.
11-26-2010, 05:01 PM
#460
Racer
So now on to what I have to say, I picked up @ (Don's Hot Rod Shop, 2811 North Stone Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-884-8892) 12 quarts of Redlines Racing ATF (Type F) for $10.09 a quart. With taxes it was $118 and change. Glad I called around town and found this dealer, as they are the only folks in town who carry the stuff. Ironically I picked up all that they had and open box of 12 quarts, lol hope no one else was wanting the same fluid!
So when I change my wife's oil tomorrow, I will also be doing her ATF fluid. Depending how it goes, I will either just do a 2x3 and then do the other 2x3 later or if it's easy enough to do the whole 4x3.
Last edited by chayos00; 11-26-2010 at 05:03 PM.
11-26-2010, 06:51 PM
#461
I just called the dealer today to confirm what has already been said on here about the 07 TL tranny, it DOES NOT have a replaceable transmission filter. It does have a filter, but you have to tear the tranny apart to do so, nothing that any of us will be doing in our garages.
So now on to what I have to say, I picked up @ (Don's Hot Rod Shop, 2811 North Stone Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-884-8892) 12 quarts of Redlines Racing ATF (Type F) for $10.09 a quart. With taxes it was $118 and change. Glad I called around town and found this dealer, as they are the only folks in town who carry the stuff. Ironically I picked up all that they had and open box of 12 quarts, lol hope no one else was wanting the same fluid!
So when I change my wife's oil tomorrow, I will also be doing her ATF fluid. Depending how it goes, I will either just do a 2x3 and then do the other 2x3 later or if it's easy enough to do the whole 4x3.
So now on to what I have to say, I picked up @ (Don's Hot Rod Shop, 2811 North Stone Avenue, Tucson, AZ 85705 520-884-8892) 12 quarts of Redlines Racing ATF (Type F) for $10.09 a quart. With taxes it was $118 and change. Glad I called around town and found this dealer, as they are the only folks in town who carry the stuff. Ironically I picked up all that they had and open box of 12 quarts, lol hope no one else was wanting the same fluid!
So when I change my wife's oil tomorrow, I will also be doing her ATF fluid. Depending how it goes, I will either just do a 2x3 and then do the other 2x3 later or if it's easy enough to do the whole 4x3.
11-26-2010, 07:24 PM
#462
Racer
11-26-2010, 11:08 PM
#463
I just called the dealer today to confirm what has already been said on here about the 07 TL tranny, it DOES NOT have a replaceable transmission filter. It does have a filter, but you have to tear the tranny apart to do so, nothing that any of us will be doing in our garages.
11-26-2010, 11:11 PM
#464
Team Owner
That was on an '05.
11-26-2010, 11:12 PM
#465
Racer
Hmm, this looks like it DOES have a replaceable trans. filter https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...l+a%2Ft+filter
11-26-2010, 11:21 PM
#467
Racer
11-27-2010, 12:35 AM
#468
6th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2010
Age: 42
Posts: 6
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Here is a great resource explaining how these types of switches wear.
http://brisdance.com/Honda/AutoSensorInf.html
11-27-2010, 07:06 PM
#470
Team Owner
11-28-2010, 02:05 AM
#471
Racer
Ok so tonight I do my standard engine oil change and tire rotation. @ 40,866mile on the clock. I also finally did the ATF fluid change. I performed a 2x3q change with the Redline Racing ATF. Since it is now 1:30am I will perform the other 2 2x3's in the morning. So far tonight it's roughly 46 degrees outside here in Arizona, one thing I noticed is that from a sit still if I romp on the gas I'm able to peel out till the VSC kicks in. Normally I can't get this to happen, maybe just a bit of a tire chirp but not a complete loss of traction. I could feel the quicker firmer shift as I was manually pulling the car through the gears, maybe it was because of my holding the car in gear at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, but I don't know. So far I like the feel of the change. These observations are only after my first 3 quart flush, I'm writing this as my second drain takes place. I will take it for another spin and then let it drain while I sleep, to continue the other flush and fill to make it a total of 4 flushes by 3 quarts (or whatever the bottles are) of fluid.
I'm just glad that a cop didn't stop me and ask why was I crusing along then coming to a stop and romping it up to 60mph in a 45 zone. (This time of night the road going to my neighborhood is usually dead of traffic 12am-1am.)
I'm just glad that a cop didn't stop me and ask why was I crusing along then coming to a stop and romping it up to 60mph in a 45 zone. (This time of night the road going to my neighborhood is usually dead of traffic 12am-1am.)
Last edited by chayos00; 11-28-2010 at 02:09 AM.
11-28-2010, 01:55 PM
#473
Racer
Ok so tonight I do my standard engine oil change and tire rotation. @ 40,866mile on the clock. I also finally did the ATF fluid change. I performed a 2x3q change with the Redline Racing ATF. Since it is now 1:30am I will perform the other 2 2x3's in the morning. So far tonight it's roughly 46 degrees outside here in Arizona, one thing I noticed is that from a sit still if I romp on the gas I'm able to peel out till the VSC kicks in. Normally I can't get this to happen, maybe just a bit of a tire chirp but not a complete loss of traction. I could feel the quicker firmer shift as I was manually pulling the car through the gears, maybe it was because of my holding the car in gear at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, but I don't know. So far I like the feel of the change. These observations are only after my first 3 quart flush, I'm writing this as my second drain takes place. I will take it for another spin and then let it drain while I sleep, to continue the other flush and fill to make it a total of 4 flushes by 3 quarts (or whatever the bottles are) of fluid.
I'm just glad that a cop didn't stop me and ask why was I cruising along then coming to a stop and romping it up to 60mph in a 45 zone. (This time of night the road going to my neighborhood is usually dead of traffic 12am-1am.)
I'm just glad that a cop didn't stop me and ask why was I cruising along then coming to a stop and romping it up to 60mph in a 45 zone. (This time of night the road going to my neighborhood is usually dead of traffic 12am-1am.)
Well the last of the 4x3 flush is draining as I write this out. I made a run into town this morning after my third flush (really good mixing of the ATF) so with this flush I can see the fluid looks much pinker/red not like fresh but much cleaner than the first 3 drains looked. So I'll do another flush for the ATF for the next three oil changes to get the rest of the old Z1 fluid out. Plus I already bought up all of the Redline Racing ATF that I have at the local supplier.
Also forgot to mention the drain plug just had the usual "sludge" buildup on it nothing that was solid or more than sludge. So hopefully I won't see anything more on this drain plug on the next change.
So currently I should be looking at approximately 86.6-88% (depending on which % chart I go off of) of fresh Redline Racing ATF.
Time to go reset the computer to get the computer to relearn how to drive now. Don't know if that will really do anything but hell it's worth a shot.
11-30-2010, 01:03 PM
#474
Burning Brakes
so update on transmission issue...I guess on friday when I went to go on road test with shop foreman we could not get it so shudder again and get a snap shot of it happening...I guess the Acura Engineers want to capture this happening in the shop before replacing transmission...
Now my question is this. I now have the car back and am just monitoring it and record when it happens and if I can get some consistancy of it shuddering....we came to the agreement that they have record of it and we going to wait till it gets worse and they are able to get a snap shot before doing the transmission....
Now my question is my car has 62k and I have 100k 7yr warranty on it..Should I ride this warranty and monitor this issue and get them to give me a new transmission?
Or should I just say F the dealer and do my Type F fuild drain and fill and run risk of losing on getting a new trans due to not having OEM fluid in there?
I'm thinking ride this out and get new trans from dealer and then add the Redline stuff in....Car has 62k and 2014 and 100k is awhile away so im sure this shuddering will get more consistant!
Let me know any input on your thoughts about this and what ya'll would have done in my situation!!
On a side note since getting the car on friday been trying to get to happen(the shuddering and have not been successfull) what PITA, especially on friday since we spent over an hour driving around trying to get a live snap shot
Now my question is this. I now have the car back and am just monitoring it and record when it happens and if I can get some consistancy of it shuddering....we came to the agreement that they have record of it and we going to wait till it gets worse and they are able to get a snap shot before doing the transmission....
Now my question is my car has 62k and I have 100k 7yr warranty on it..Should I ride this warranty and monitor this issue and get them to give me a new transmission?
Or should I just say F the dealer and do my Type F fuild drain and fill and run risk of losing on getting a new trans due to not having OEM fluid in there?
I'm thinking ride this out and get new trans from dealer and then add the Redline stuff in....Car has 62k and 2014 and 100k is awhile away so im sure this shuddering will get more consistant!
Let me know any input on your thoughts about this and what ya'll would have done in my situation!!
On a side note since getting the car on friday been trying to get to happen(the shuddering and have not been successfull) what PITA, especially on friday since we spent over an hour driving around trying to get a live snap shot
11-30-2010, 06:53 PM
#475
Racer
so update on transmission issue...I guess on friday when I went to go on road test with shop foreman we could not get it so shudder again and get a snap shot of it happening...I guess the Acura Engineers want to capture this happening in the shop before replacing transmission...
Now my question is this. I now have the car back and am just monitoring it and record when it happens and if I can get some consistancy of it shuddering....we came to the agreement that they have record of it and we going to wait till it gets worse and they are able to get a snap shot before doing the transmission.... Did they give you something so that way you will be able to get the "snapshot" of when it is happening?
Now my question is my car has 62k and I have 100k 7yr warranty on it..Should I ride this warranty and monitor this issue and get them to give me a new transmission?
Or should I just say F the dealer and do my Type F fuild drain and fill and run risk of losing on getting a new trans due to not having OEM fluid in there?
I'm thinking ride this out and get new trans from dealer and then add the Redline stuff in....Car has 62k and 2014 and 100k is awhile away so im sure this shuddering will get more consistant!
Let me know any input on your thoughts about this and what ya'll would have done in my situation!!
On a side note since getting the car on friday been trying to get to happen(the shuddering and have not been successfull) what PITA, especially on friday since we spent over an hour driving around trying to get a live snap shot
Now my question is this. I now have the car back and am just monitoring it and record when it happens and if I can get some consistancy of it shuddering....we came to the agreement that they have record of it and we going to wait till it gets worse and they are able to get a snap shot before doing the transmission.... Did they give you something so that way you will be able to get the "snapshot" of when it is happening?
Now my question is my car has 62k and I have 100k 7yr warranty on it..Should I ride this warranty and monitor this issue and get them to give me a new transmission?
Or should I just say F the dealer and do my Type F fuild drain and fill and run risk of losing on getting a new trans due to not having OEM fluid in there?
I'm thinking ride this out and get new trans from dealer and then add the Redline stuff in....Car has 62k and 2014 and 100k is awhile away so im sure this shuddering will get more consistant!
Let me know any input on your thoughts about this and what ya'll would have done in my situation!!
On a side note since getting the car on friday been trying to get to happen(the shuddering and have not been successfull) what PITA, especially on friday since we spent over an hour driving around trying to get a live snap shot
I wouldn't take any chance on the dealer/Acura at having any reason or doubt that it is there problem. My vote is to not use a non OEM approved fluid to use, plus if you do change the fluid. It just might remedy your problem or be something that just causes the problem to hide until your warranty is out.
11-30-2010, 09:50 PM
#476
Team Owner
so update on transmission issue...I guess on friday when I went to go on road test with shop foreman we could not get it so shudder again and get a snap shot of it happening...I guess the Acura Engineers want to capture this happening in the shop before replacing transmission...
Now my question is this. I now have the car back and am just monitoring it and record when it happens and if I can get some consistancy of it shuddering....we came to the agreement that they have record of it and we going to wait till it gets worse and they are able to get a snap shot before doing the transmission....
Now my question is my car has 62k and I have 100k 7yr warranty on it..Should I ride this warranty and monitor this issue and get them to give me a new transmission?
Or should I just say F the dealer and do my Type F fuild drain and fill and run risk of losing on getting a new trans due to not having OEM fluid in there?
I'm thinking ride this out and get new trans from dealer and then add the Redline stuff in....Car has 62k and 2014 and 100k is awhile away so im sure this shuddering will get more consistant!
Let me know any input on your thoughts about this and what ya'll would have done in my situation!!
On a side note since getting the car on friday been trying to get to happen(the shuddering and have not been successfull) what PITA, especially on friday since we spent over an hour driving around trying to get a live snap shot
Now my question is this. I now have the car back and am just monitoring it and record when it happens and if I can get some consistancy of it shuddering....we came to the agreement that they have record of it and we going to wait till it gets worse and they are able to get a snap shot before doing the transmission....
Now my question is my car has 62k and I have 100k 7yr warranty on it..Should I ride this warranty and monitor this issue and get them to give me a new transmission?
Or should I just say F the dealer and do my Type F fuild drain and fill and run risk of losing on getting a new trans due to not having OEM fluid in there?
I'm thinking ride this out and get new trans from dealer and then add the Redline stuff in....Car has 62k and 2014 and 100k is awhile away so im sure this shuddering will get more consistant!
Let me know any input on your thoughts about this and what ya'll would have done in my situation!!
On a side note since getting the car on friday been trying to get to happen(the shuddering and have not been successfull) what PITA, especially on friday since we spent over an hour driving around trying to get a live snap shot
The only thing you're going to possibly get when it shudders is maybe and it's a big maybe, a difference in input vs output readings. It would probably show up as an incorrect gear ratio code but that's only when things get real bad.
Stupid stupid stupid people.
12-07-2010, 11:28 AM
#477
Burning Brakes
Agreed on the dealer being stupid for sure 100%, but they were ready to replace transmission and they are saying that HondaNorth of America wanted snapshots of it and according to me and the other tech were both agreed it was stupid while we were driving and asking ourselves same question??
.....
It is dumb no question and only thing that I came up with of them seeing is the rpm's fluttering or rising and vehicle not matching the speedometer with the rpm that its at...because when it does do you can see the rpm's bouncing back and forth slightly while going thru rpm's but still pretty ridocolous IMO.... but I mean it would be good to have a new trasmission, but if I go Redline and this issue continues I guess i can always do a full drain and put the Z1 back in before bringing it back to dealer!!
Me and the acuratech which was pretty kool dude, he actually wanted to replace the transmission and he was saying same thing you said IHC that how can they possible get the clutch shudder in a snapshot lol...so we even thought about draining the fluid and running low on tranny fluid and getting it to shudder that way lol!! but shop foreman didnt go for that....oh well I still might go ahead and do this redline fluid change and if it gets worse while still in warranty i'll add the z1 back in before going back to dealer........
how many quarts again would it be before getting 100% of fluid out or I could do what you mentioned some point by pulling the line from the outer trans cooler line and running till the fluid is all changed
.....It is dumb no question and only thing that I came up with of them seeing is the rpm's fluttering or rising and vehicle not matching the speedometer with the rpm that its at...because when it does do you can see the rpm's bouncing back and forth slightly while going thru rpm's but still pretty ridocolous IMO.... but I mean it would be good to have a new trasmission, but if I go Redline and this issue continues I guess i can always do a full drain and put the Z1 back in before bringing it back to dealer!!
Me and the acuratech which was pretty kool dude, he actually wanted to replace the transmission and he was saying same thing you said IHC that how can they possible get the clutch shudder in a snapshot lol...so we even thought about draining the fluid and running low on tranny fluid and getting it to shudder that way lol!! but shop foreman didnt go for that....oh well I still might go ahead and do this redline fluid change and if it gets worse while still in warranty i'll add the z1 back in before going back to dealer........
how many quarts again would it be before getting 100% of fluid out or I could do what you mentioned some point by pulling the line from the outer trans cooler line and running till the fluid is all changed
12-07-2010, 08:01 PM
#478
Racer
Agreed on the dealer being stupid for sure 100%, but they were ready to replace transmission and they are saying that HondaNorth of America wanted snapshots of it and according to me and the other tech were both agreed it was stupid while we were driving and asking ourselves same question??.....
It is dumb no question and only thing that I came up with of them seeing is the rpm's fluttering or rising and vehicle not matching the speedometer with the rpm that its at...because when it does do you can see the rpm's bouncing back and forth slightly while going thru rpm's but still pretty ridocolous IMO.... but I mean it would be good to have a new trasmission, but if I go Redline and this issue continues I guess i can always do a full drain and put the Z1 back in before bringing it back to dealer!!
Me and the acuratech which was pretty kool dude, he actually wanted to replace the transmission and he was saying same thing you said IHC that how can they possible get the clutch shudder in a snapshot lol...so we even thought about draining the fluid and running low on tranny fluid and getting it to shudder that way lol!! but shop foreman didnt go for that....oh well I still might go ahead and do this redline fluid change and if it gets worse while still in warranty i'll add the z1 back in before going back to dealer........
how many quarts again would it be before getting 100% of fluid out or I could do what you mentioned some point by pulling the line from the outer trans cooler line and running till the fluid is all changed
.....It is dumb no question and only thing that I came up with of them seeing is the rpm's fluttering or rising and vehicle not matching the speedometer with the rpm that its at...because when it does do you can see the rpm's bouncing back and forth slightly while going thru rpm's but still pretty ridocolous IMO.... but I mean it would be good to have a new trasmission, but if I go Redline and this issue continues I guess i can always do a full drain and put the Z1 back in before bringing it back to dealer!!
Me and the acuratech which was pretty kool dude, he actually wanted to replace the transmission and he was saying same thing you said IHC that how can they possible get the clutch shudder in a snapshot lol...so we even thought about draining the fluid and running low on tranny fluid and getting it to shudder that way lol!! but shop foreman didnt go for that....oh well I still might go ahead and do this redline fluid change and if it gets worse while still in warranty i'll add the z1 back in before going back to dealer........
how many quarts again would it be before getting 100% of fluid out or I could do what you mentioned some point by pulling the line from the outer trans cooler line and running till the fluid is all changed
Doing the 1x3 flush method you would waste so much fluid doing this it would be ridiculous.
This is the chart that was posted earlier as to how many 1x3 flushes to the % of fluid remaining. So about 27-30 (27*$10.90=wasted $$) quarts to really get it done. Your better off saving your money, drain a quart or two and take it to the dealer to get the shutter to return. Just make sure after you drive away go to a parking lot and top off what you drained out. lol
1= 40% 1=39.5%
2= 73% 2=63.4%
3= 79% 3=77.8%
4= 88% 4=86.6%
5= 93% 5=91.9%
6= 96% 6=95.1%
7= 98% 7=97.0%
8= 99% 8=98.2%
9= 100% 9=98.9%
12-07-2010, 11:05 PM
#479
Team Owner
Agreed on the dealer being stupid for sure 100%, but they were ready to replace transmission and they are saying that HondaNorth of America wanted snapshots of it and according to me and the other tech were both agreed it was stupid while we were driving and asking ourselves same question??.....
It is dumb no question and only thing that I came up with of them seeing is the rpm's fluttering or rising and vehicle not matching the speedometer with the rpm that its at...because when it does do you can see the rpm's bouncing back and forth slightly while going thru rpm's but still pretty ridocolous IMO.... but I mean it would be good to have a new trasmission, but if I go Redline and this issue continues I guess i can always do a full drain and put the Z1 back in before bringing it back to dealer!!
Me and the acuratech which was pretty kool dude, he actually wanted to replace the transmission and he was saying same thing you said IHC that how can they possible get the clutch shudder in a snapshot lol...so we even thought about draining the fluid and running low on tranny fluid and getting it to shudder that way lol!! but shop foreman didnt go for that....oh well I still might go ahead and do this redline fluid change and if it gets worse while still in warranty i'll add the z1 back in before going back to dealer........
how many quarts again would it be before getting 100% of fluid out or I could do what you mentioned some point by pulling the line from the outer trans cooler line and running till the fluid is all changed
.....It is dumb no question and only thing that I came up with of them seeing is the rpm's fluttering or rising and vehicle not matching the speedometer with the rpm that its at...because when it does do you can see the rpm's bouncing back and forth slightly while going thru rpm's but still pretty ridocolous IMO.... but I mean it would be good to have a new trasmission, but if I go Redline and this issue continues I guess i can always do a full drain and put the Z1 back in before bringing it back to dealer!!
Me and the acuratech which was pretty kool dude, he actually wanted to replace the transmission and he was saying same thing you said IHC that how can they possible get the clutch shudder in a snapshot lol...so we even thought about draining the fluid and running low on tranny fluid and getting it to shudder that way lol!! but shop foreman didnt go for that....oh well I still might go ahead and do this redline fluid change and if it gets worse while still in warranty i'll add the z1 back in before going back to dealer........
how many quarts again would it be before getting 100% of fluid out or I could do what you mentioned some point by pulling the line from the outer trans cooler line and running till the fluid is all changed
You have a Type-S which means you have a cooler. All you have to do a single drain and fill. Pull a cooler line and stick it into a 5 gallon bucket. Start the engine and add fluid back into the trans at the same rate it's coming out. You should be able to have 100% new fluid with only 8 quarts.
12-08-2010, 07:06 AM
#480
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
You have a Type-S which means you have a cooler. All you have to do a single drain and fill. Pull a cooler line and stick it into a 5 gallon bucket. Start the engine and add fluid back into the trans at the same rate it's coming out. You should be able to have 100% new fluid with only 8 quarts.
holy crap i wish i knew this when i was doing my 3x3...that would have saved me time and money.
