Racing ATF
01-05-2011, 01:07 PM
#561
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
i live in the north east, it gets plenty cold up here this time of year. i did a 3x3 a few months ago, with redline racing and redline lightweight. 2 qts racing/1 qt lightweight on each fill.
i have not noticed a delay of any kind when going into any gear. everything is smooth, much smoother than before i did the 3x3.
at my next oil change, in 6k miles, i'll do another 1x3 (2 racing/1 light) and replace the pressure sensors/switches.
anyone living in a cold climate like myself, should not hesitate to do this. you'll thank innacurate when it's all said n done.
i have not noticed a delay of any kind when going into any gear. everything is smooth, much smoother than before i did the 3x3.
at my next oil change, in 6k miles, i'll do another 1x3 (2 racing/1 light) and replace the pressure sensors/switches.
anyone living in a cold climate like myself, should not hesitate to do this. you'll thank innacurate when it's all said n done.
01-05-2011, 02:41 PM
#562
01-05-2011, 08:35 PM
#563
08 MDX, 04 TL (sold)
iTrader: (1)
I live in a cold climate and was worried about the thicker viscosity so I did a drain and fill with Redline 2 qts of racing and 1 qt of lightweight racing. I have only done 1 drain and fill with the Redline mixture and the previous fluid was Honda-Z4, but I have been very pleased this winter. There is less of a shift delay than there used to be in previous winters.
01-06-2011, 06:24 AM
#564
^ Very timely question. It has been the consensus that the thicker Redline Racing had no downside but on the other hand would offer better gear lubrication.
In light of the observation from SpiderX1016, the thicker Redline Racing might be a bit sluggish in cold climates traveling thru the passage ways before it has had a few minutes to warm-up.
SpiderX1016 - What was the weather temperature that morning when you noticed the delay?
Hopefully other members that have used the Redline Racing in cold climates can offer their feedback. Has anyone else notice a longer delay with the trans going into gear after switching to RedLine Racing ?
I use all Redline Lightweight in my trans. My trans never had a delay issue even before using the Redline. But again I have always used Mobil1 Synthetic ATF since the car was new too. With the Redline Lightweight, I notice the trans going into gear quicker than the Mobil1 ATF.
Correct. The Redline Racing and the Redline Racing Lightweight are the same except for the viscosity. The two can be mixed in any ratio or one fluid can be used exclusively.
Theoretically, the thicker Redline Racing should offer more gear lubrication/protection. However, I use all Redline Racing Lightweight and I have seen no metal on my drain plug. And I dog my car a lot.
Your plan to use 5:4, racing:lightweight or 6:3 would still be thicker than the Z1. For your cold climate, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) (click here) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) (click here) per every refill.
Using 4 Racing and 5 Lightweight would give a slightly thicker fluid than Z1.
Using 3 Racing and 6 Lightweight would give a slightly thinner fluid than Z1. I recommend this for the cold climate. With the superior film strength of the Redline, this is completely safe. Like I said, I run much thinner with no wear.
In light of the observation from SpiderX1016, the thicker Redline Racing might be a bit sluggish in cold climates traveling thru the passage ways before it has had a few minutes to warm-up.
SpiderX1016 - What was the weather temperature that morning when you noticed the delay?
Hopefully other members that have used the Redline Racing in cold climates can offer their feedback. Has anyone else notice a longer delay with the trans going into gear after switching to RedLine Racing ?
I use all Redline Lightweight in my trans. My trans never had a delay issue even before using the Redline. But again I have always used Mobil1 Synthetic ATF since the car was new too. With the Redline Lightweight, I notice the trans going into gear quicker than the Mobil1 ATF.
Correct. The Redline Racing and the Redline Racing Lightweight are the same except for the viscosity. The two can be mixed in any ratio or one fluid can be used exclusively.
Theoretically, the thicker Redline Racing should offer more gear lubrication/protection. However, I use all Redline Racing Lightweight and I have seen no metal on my drain plug. And I dog my car a lot.
Your plan to use 5:4, racing:lightweight or 6:3 would still be thicker than the Z1. For your cold climate, I recommend 1 quarts RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) (click here) and 2 quart RedLine Lightweight Racing ATF (PN# 30314) (click here) per every refill.
Using 4 Racing and 5 Lightweight would give a slightly thicker fluid than Z1.
Using 3 Racing and 6 Lightweight would give a slightly thinner fluid than Z1. I recommend this for the cold climate. With the superior film strength of the Redline, this is completely safe. Like I said, I run much thinner with no wear.
Agreed, it would be interesting to get a small survey of people using the racing fluid in a cold climate.
My theory is it should not make a difference except in the coldest of climates. I graphed it a while back and it's on my home computer but at 32F, the racing fluid is the same viscosity as Z1 at 20F or pretty close to that. All I'm saying is that if it's the fluid's fault, Z1 users should experience the same issues at a slightly lower temp.
FWIW, since I have around 90% racing fluid right now, I'm doing 2 quarts of the lightweight and one quart of the racing while it's still cold just to see if I can tell a difference. In fact I'm on the fence, might do an entire 1x3 of lightweight since it would put me very close to Z1 viscosity. "Cold" here is freezing so it's all relative.
My theory is it should not make a difference except in the coldest of climates. I graphed it a while back and it's on my home computer but at 32F, the racing fluid is the same viscosity as Z1 at 20F or pretty close to that. All I'm saying is that if it's the fluid's fault, Z1 users should experience the same issues at a slightly lower temp.
FWIW, since I have around 90% racing fluid right now, I'm doing 2 quarts of the lightweight and one quart of the racing while it's still cold just to see if I can tell a difference. In fact I'm on the fence, might do an entire 1x3 of lightweight since it would put me very close to Z1 viscosity. "Cold" here is freezing so it's all relative.
01-14-2011, 07:44 PM
#565
Did a flush with 3 qts of the redline racing atf today. So far all seems good, it may just be the fresh fluid in general or the redline stuff. It seems to have helped it sum as in smoothness i should say. Will flush another 3 qts first of next month. Thanks for the advice and details on this.
02-01-2011, 01:48 AM
#568
I have a 2009 RDX with a 5AT, which based on the pics (diagrams) posted in this thread and others, looks like the TL trans 5AT, complete with the interior only filter.
I plan to use a mix of 50/50 Redline Racing/ Lightweight, because I live in Utah, where it is not unusual to get down to 10F even inside Salt Lake City, and much colder up higher in the canyons.
For those interested, these are the published viscosities from Redline, cSt @100C, cSt @40C, cP @-40C
RACING: 10, 56, 18000
D4: 7.5, 34, 5200
Mobil 1: 7.4, 36.3, 10040
50/50: 7.45, 39.6, 12750 (extrapolated of course)
LIGHTWEIGHT: 4.9, 23.2, 7500
Now, my question is basically this. D4 is rated as GL4 protection, while the RACING and LIGHTWEIGHT are not. So is that just advertising, or is the D4 actually more protective of the gears (GL4)?
Anyone discussed this directly with Redline, or have a comment? Thanks for this post/ thread. I have been following for a couple of months, trying to decide if I wish to try the Redline, and whether to go with D4 or Racing?
BTW, this topic is not active on the RDX forum area. Not sure if our car is more reliable, or just not old enough to have problems yet. Mine has only 17K miles. A Magnefine filter was installed at 15K miles with a 3x4 with Z1, into the factory trans cooler line. And the RDX has a 'real' cooler in front of the grill, as well as the heater/ cooler inside the radiator.
The RDX trans holds 8.2 quarts, with 4 quarts (instead of 3) on a drain. Hence, 3x4 instead of 3x3.
I plan to use a mix of 50/50 Redline Racing/ Lightweight, because I live in Utah, where it is not unusual to get down to 10F even inside Salt Lake City, and much colder up higher in the canyons.
For those interested, these are the published viscosities from Redline, cSt @100C, cSt @40C, cP @-40C
RACING: 10, 56, 18000
D4: 7.5, 34, 5200
Mobil 1: 7.4, 36.3, 10040
50/50: 7.45, 39.6, 12750 (extrapolated of course)
LIGHTWEIGHT: 4.9, 23.2, 7500
Now, my question is basically this. D4 is rated as GL4 protection, while the RACING and LIGHTWEIGHT are not. So is that just advertising, or is the D4 actually more protective of the gears (GL4)?
Anyone discussed this directly with Redline, or have a comment? Thanks for this post/ thread. I have been following for a couple of months, trying to decide if I wish to try the Redline, and whether to go with D4 or Racing?
BTW, this topic is not active on the RDX forum area. Not sure if our car is more reliable, or just not old enough to have problems yet. Mine has only 17K miles. A Magnefine filter was installed at 15K miles with a 3x4 with Z1, into the factory trans cooler line. And the RDX has a 'real' cooler in front of the grill, as well as the heater/ cooler inside the radiator.
The RDX trans holds 8.2 quarts, with 4 quarts (instead of 3) on a drain. Hence, 3x4 instead of 3x3.
02-01-2011, 02:24 AM
#569
Safety Car
Thread Starter
In the pic above, Redline states that the D4 "provides a GL-4 level of gear protection."
In the pic above, Redline states that the Racing fluid "satisfies GL-4 gear oil requirements." Whereas the web page for the Lightweight fluid has no mention of meeting GL-4 requirements.
However in the pic above, Redline does state that the Lightweight fluid also is "recommended use" for GL-4 usage (click here for source).
I do agree that it would be helpful to call Redline to inquire. If you call Redline, be sure to ask for Dave.
02-01-2011, 02:41 AM
#570
... I've also got a theory that Z1 when driven hard on a hot summer day probably gets as thin as the lightweight fluid and you don't have the great base oil there to protect it.
I believe the new Honda fluid that Z1 is supposed to be replaced with is going to be in the upper 5cSt range so who knows how this will play out. GM is already using a low 6cSt fluid (Dex VI). ...
I believe the new Honda fluid that Z1 is supposed to be replaced with is going to be in the upper 5cSt range so who knows how this will play out. GM is already using a low 6cSt fluid (Dex VI). ...
cSt @100C, cSt @40C, cP @-40 (not published by Honda)
Z1: 7.058, 29.49
DW-1: 6.835, 25.09
DEX VI: 6.0, 29.8, 12030
The DEX VI stuff is made by Petro-Canada, the manufacturer who developed the original stuff in conjunction with GM, and hold the #1 license number from GM to make it (for GM). Compare the above data with Redline product data, in my post just above.
Since the Honda DW-1 new ATF is only marginally lower in viscosity, at 100C, than the old Z1, I wonder if that means that the Z1 was already near the lowest acceptable viscosity for proper protection of the trans? Surely, if Honda wanted to 'duplicate' DEX VI for gas-saving, they could have gone lower in viscosity than they did with the DW-1. So why didn't they?
Well, maybe one reason is that DW-1 is just ordinary mineral/ petroleum oil, while the DEX VI is a semi-synthetic. The entire advertising push for DEX VI is that it will not shear (to a lower viscosity), like ordinary oils. Wonder how badly, and how fast, the DW-1 will shear?
BTW, the last DW-1 oil bottle that I read (the label), did NOT state that DW-1 could be used in vehicles previous to 2010, unlike the DPSF fluid for the rear differential, which DOES state that it is backward compatible with all previous years/ diffs. This is contrary to many online posts, so before you put DW-1 in your car trans (why would you), at least read the label.
02-01-2011, 03:05 AM
#571
...
However in the pic above, Redline does state that the Lightweight fluid also is "recommended use" for GL-4 usage (click here for source).
I do agree that it would be helpful to call Redline to inquire. If you call Redline, be sure to ask for Dave.
However in the pic above, Redline does state that the Lightweight fluid also is "recommended use" for GL-4 usage (click here for source).
I do agree that it would be helpful to call Redline to inquire. If you call Redline, be sure to ask for Dave.
The PDF file which you link also gives different viscosity data for the RACING ATF oil, than that which I posted above. The difference is minor, so I will not repost, anyone interested can use your link. The difference is minor enough that it has really no effect on what I posted concerning viscosity comparisons between the various Redline versions.
02-01-2011, 09:28 PM
#572
BTW, FRSport.com price matches Redline fluids. I had them pricematch down to $9.95/quart for Type F fluid because they had some of the lowest shipping I could find. You just have to submit an online form and they got back to me in a day or so.
02-01-2011, 09:51 PM
#573
I did a 3x 3 drain and fill with Redline type F and I've experienced the same symptoms as spiderx with the 2-3 second delay while in reverse. This occurs when I first turn on my car and backout of the garage. Temperature is rougly around 60f or so.
02-02-2011, 09:55 PM
#577
Lookie at what I got from Mr. UPS =]
Before I start the 3x3, do you think 3 Redline racing atf is going to be too thick? I live in Los Angeles, so it isn't super cold. I'm thinking I can get away with not mixing this stuff with some Redline racing lightweight. Anyone care to chime in and just put my mind at peace.
I'll let everyone know the result after I do the 1x3, 2x3, and 3x3 =]
Before I start the 3x3, do you think 3 Redline racing atf is going to be too thick? I live in Los Angeles, so it isn't super cold. I'm thinking I can get away with not mixing this stuff with some Redline racing lightweight. Anyone care to chime in and just put my mind at peace.
I'll let everyone know the result after I do the 1x3, 2x3, and 3x3 =]
02-02-2011, 11:07 PM
#578
Safety Car
Thread Starter
You will be fine. There is no real harm with it being thicker than typical ATF. Whereas you will be saving your trans from that damning Z1, which is harmful to your trans.
The difference between Racing and Lightweight is really just splitting hairs.
02-07-2011, 04:52 PM
#579
SHAWD 04TL is in
Picking up 3qts of Redline Type F after work today... WOOT.
INAC & IHC, do you see any issues with doing a 1x3 for now of type F? In other words Ill be mixing 3qts of type F with the rest of the Z1.
THNX
INAC & IHC, do you see any issues with doing a 1x3 for now of type F? In other words Ill be mixing 3qts of type F with the rest of the Z1.
THNX
02-10-2011, 02:06 AM
#582
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Weird ATF level reading even after car was run (click here)
Oohhh....... wait a minute. That is one of your threads. Can I post a link to answer your question when the linked thread belongs to you?
Oohhh....... wait a minute. That is one of your threads. Can I post a link to answer your question when the linked thread belongs to you?
02-11-2011, 07:38 PM
#584
way too many posts to read...i simply just want to use the best atf for my 07' TL...FM good or bad or whatever...racing lightweight blah blah, redline amsoil etc blah blah...whats mostly recommended...what ratio? I dont want any comments referring me to go back and read. Just make it simple please.
02-11-2011, 11:25 PM
#585
Safety Car
Thread Starter
When your order arrives, do a drain/refill of your trans for 4 times. Each refill takes 3 qts. Thus, 3 qts for four times equals 12 qts.
02-12-2011, 12:18 AM
#586
Purchase 12 quarts of RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) (click here) from this link.
When your order arrives, do a drain/refill of your trans for 4 times. Each refill takes 3 qts. Thus, 3 qts for four times equals 12 qts.
When your order arrives, do a drain/refill of your trans for 4 times. Each refill takes 3 qts. Thus, 3 qts for four times equals 12 qts.
preciate the blount simplicity.
02-12-2011, 07:33 PM
#588
Racer
Ok so i just ordered my racing ATF 30304, how do i go about changing the fluid or flushing it? Do i need to go to a mechanic? Is there a diy? Thank you for all the helpful info.
02-12-2011, 11:56 PM
#590
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I highly doubt that they would know that it was not Z1 in the trans. However, Z1 is usually black because the Z1 grinds the hell out of the clutches. The worn-away clutch material is what causes the Z1 to turn black so quickly (my theory). So with Racing ATF, they might scratch their head wondering why your fluid is a beautiful clear red
My advise is to "Don't ask, don't tell". You are taking a risk either way.
Keep using the Z1 and allow the Z1 to wear away all of the clutch material by 100k. Your warranty will be expired, and your trans breaks at 110k..... leaving you to foot the bill.
Or, you can take a risk that they will never know. Put the Racing fluid in there, and rest comfortably knowing that your trans will live a long life (200k+
)
02-13-2011, 08:52 PM
#591
Controversial question. Acura (or warrantor) might or might not be able to void the warranty for using non-approved ATF. Either way, your warranty could be challenged if they discovered that you used non-approved fluid.
I highly doubt that they would know that it was not Z1 in the trans. However, Z1 is usually black because the Z1 grinds the hell out of the clutches. The worn-away clutch material is what causes the Z1 to turn black so quickly (my theory). So with Racing ATF, they might scratch their head wondering why your fluid is a beautiful clear red
My advise is to "Don't ask, don't tell". You are taking a risk either way.
Keep using the Z1 and allow the Z1 to wear away all of the clutch material by 100k. Your warranty will be expired, and your trans breaks at 110k..... leaving you to foot the bill.
Or, you can take a risk that they will never know. Put the Racing fluid in there, and rest comfortably knowing that your trans will live a long life (200k+ )
I highly doubt that they would know that it was not Z1 in the trans. However, Z1 is usually black because the Z1 grinds the hell out of the clutches. The worn-away clutch material is what causes the Z1 to turn black so quickly (my theory). So with Racing ATF, they might scratch their head wondering why your fluid is a beautiful clear red
My advise is to "Don't ask, don't tell". You are taking a risk either way.
Keep using the Z1 and allow the Z1 to wear away all of the clutch material by 100k. Your warranty will be expired, and your trans breaks at 110k..... leaving you to foot the bill.
Or, you can take a risk that they will never know. Put the Racing fluid in there, and rest comfortably knowing that your trans will live a long life (200k+
)Good suggestions...I preciate it. Looks like I will order some new Redline ATF.
02-13-2011, 11:31 PM
#592
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Anonymous via PM
I don't race or even push my car hard. So, would the Redline D4 be what I'm looking for instead of the Racing fluid?
Anytime the transmission shifts a gear with Z1, valuable clutch material is being scrubbed away. Even if you applied throttle as lightly as possible to accelerate, the clutches are still suffering the same wear (generally speaking).
Regarding the D4. Although D4 is better than Z1, the D4 still allows some wear on the clutches. Off the top of my head, I would estimate that the D4 would reduce the wear (compared to Z1) by half. So if you use D4, the clutches are wearing at half of the rate.
However with Racing fluid, little to no wear is occurring. I would estimate that Racing fluid reduces approx 90-95% of the wear compared to Z1.
I highly recommend that you forego the D4 and get the RedLine Racing ATF (PN# 30304) (click here).
02-14-2011, 08:14 AM
#593
Racer
Hey guys, I found a 12 qt pack of the redline racing ATF 30304 on www.outdoorpros.com for $119.35 shipped along with a $5 off coupon. I believe this price is the cheapest I've found per qt. Just google coupon code for outdoorpros.com
http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/Red-.../64914/Cat/140
http://www.outdoorpros.com/Prod/Red-.../64914/Cat/140
02-16-2011, 06:29 PM
#594
I just put in 3 quarts of Redline Racing ATF and didn't do a 3x3 because I already had Amsoil in it. Transmission shifts great! I was expecting the shifts to be much firmer but they are very smooth and quick.
02-17-2011, 06:37 AM
#595
Just did a 1x3 with 2 racing and 1 lightweight, as well as my pressure sensors. I can tell a small difference, but I wasn't experiencing any problems and I only did a 1x3. It IS switching gears faster though. I plan to do the rest with my next oil changes. I'll report back.
02-17-2011, 02:47 PM
#596
Hey guys I'm new to the 3g tl world and looked through most of this thread, I just bought a 04 TL Navi and did some tune ups. I would like to know if someone can answer these questions for me.
Longest time and Most miles someone has running on Redline Racing ATF on the 3g tl?
Any problems ever since the switch?
I'm in NYC so should i mix the racing atf with the lightweight atf?
I want to make sure before the switch or else ill just got to D4 ATF.
Cars got 55k miles on it and shifts feel sluggish sometimes.
Longest time and Most miles someone has running on Redline Racing ATF on the 3g tl?
Any problems ever since the switch?
I'm in NYC so should i mix the racing atf with the lightweight atf?
I want to make sure before the switch or else ill just got to D4 ATF.
Cars got 55k miles on it and shifts feel sluggish sometimes.
02-17-2011, 03:39 PM
#597
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
Hey guys I'm new to the 3g tl world and looked through most of this thread, I just bought a 04 TL Navi and did some tune ups. I would like to know if someone can answer these questions for me.
welcome
Longest time and Most miles someone has running on Redline Racing ATF on the 3g tl?
that would be member 'inaccurate'...not sure on the miles tho, but he has never experienced any problems.
Any problems ever since the switch?
nope, not for me or anyone else that i know of.
I'm in NYC so should i mix the racing atf with the lightweight atf?
yes, do 2 qts of racing and 1 qt of lightweight on each drain n fill.
I want to make sure before the switch or else ill just got to D4 ATF.
no, get the racing and lightweight fluid.
Cars got 55k miles on it and shifts feel sluggish sometimes.
it won't after you do the 3x3. good luck!
welcomeLongest time and Most miles someone has running on Redline Racing ATF on the 3g tl?
that would be member 'inaccurate'...not sure on the miles tho, but he has never experienced any problems.
Any problems ever since the switch?
nope, not for me or anyone else that i know of.
I'm in NYC so should i mix the racing atf with the lightweight atf?
yes, do 2 qts of racing and 1 qt of lightweight on each drain n fill.
I want to make sure before the switch or else ill just got to D4 ATF.
no, get the racing and lightweight fluid.
Cars got 55k miles on it and shifts feel sluggish sometimes.
it won't after you do the 3x3. good luck!
02-17-2011, 03:42 PM
#598
Moderator
Hmmm, interesting info. I just cleared 80K miles on my '06 and am wondering if I should do this. In a high heat climate like Phoenix, should there be a mixture of fluids, or just straight Racing ATF?
02-18-2011, 10:39 PM
#599
I've read through the whole thread and still have a few questions. I have a 05 with 84k that as far I know has not had the tranny fluid changed. What would be my best course of action?
Thank you!
Thank you!
02-19-2011, 03:33 PM
#600
Suzuka Master
just ordered a case of racing fluid from outdoor pros good price