NvrDwn

Turns out the tl is a little different. What works for an accord won't work for a tl.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

slight delay with my 4" intake.

The tubing is coming up a bit short and won't center over the hole next to the battery tray. I am going to take measurements this weekend to have a new pipe made that will line up more appropriately.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Lol, seemed to work for I Love Cars.

Sonnick

Just get a longer silicone coupler to put over the TB, no? If its only an inch or so that's all you may need. I have a bit of 4" piping as well if you need. It's about 6" long. Let me know.

NvrDwn

That's is a brilliant idea Sonnick. A 3-4 won't work. I love cars if I can find a straight coupler that is long enough I can pay for it and have it shipped directly to you. Let me know.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

NVRDWN, i told you that the 4" will be tough to fit in the TL....the space allowing is pretty less and tight....however is the pipe is bent at 2 places with a smaller angle (30deg and 30deg) it will fit....also a smaller batter will be required

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

This place has great prices and they ship quickly.


http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

NvrDwn

It's a simple fix. The pipe needs to be 2 inches longer. So Ican either order a new pipe or since the 3-4 ddoesn't fit his bigger tb and he thinks a 4 inches would do the trick is could try to find one that is 6 inches and have it to him by Friday. It's his call.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

yeah i cudnt find a 3.23"-4" silicone coupler.....i had to go with a 3.5"-4" and make that work.....

and anc that website has great prices....I ordered from verociousmotorsports

the fenda rolla

C'mon Swoosh, a quick google check will get ya plenty of 3.25" - 4" reducers!

Here's a nice one at a great price:

http://www.uppcos.com/product_info.php?products_id=234

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

@ me

Thanks Peter....I should have asked you guys for help....i wanted to buy from a somewhat reliable website (I am paranoid that way) and decent quality reducer....either way....am bookmarking all this if I have to put another intake in there LOL

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

had to go in to the office today but I will verify how I want to proceed tonight. Just need to take an exact measurement of the TB. I'm expecting to need another .5" on the coupler to fit over the TB.

Regarding the pipe length - I agree with Sonnick should just get a longer coupler and call it a day, rather than go to the hassle of trying to make a new pipe.

I'll get back to you on it tonight.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Ok, quick question. What do I do with the sensor/bracket assembly inside the dotted rectangle with the arrow pointing up to B-47? There's no provision for it on the new manifold. I'm assuming I just take the sensor off the bracket and let the vacuum line support it?

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

^I didn't even take the bracket off; I just let it hang.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

^^ this.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

WTF.

There is no possible way to get the new EGR pipe in the new manifold without grinding things. Guess I should just return it.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Then it shall hang. Thanks guys.

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

I removed the bracket and zip tied the sensor around the plastic wiring cover. I posted pics here along with the other tweaks I made to get this 100%.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...4#post14178614

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

I got it to fit in there just wiggle, wiggle, wiggle and you will get it in there. It's a tight fit.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Lol, I was trying to put it in backwards last night. In my defense, I was a little drunk and really tired. I just went and popped it in and it literally took 10 seconds.

On another note, did anyone reuse their original cover bolts? In the exploded view, it looked like the new cover came with them, so I didn't order those or the two acorn nuts, just the two studs that the acorn nuts mate to. The stock bolts are 16mm long where as the 3.7 ones are 18mm, but I think it'll be fine.

3gstealth

iTrader: (2)

I noticed the same thing. Old ones are fine though. The 3.7 cover is slightly thicker which is why bolts are longer.

Sonnick

I bought & used new bolts.

WTF? My buddy and I were trying to fit the damn EGR pipe in for like 5 minutes. It wasn't fitting any way we tried. And he is the master of fabrication/making things fit. Maybe we were being silly and overlooked something.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

mine fit just fine

but I have the EGR port blocked off....I should have just saved the $30 and not installed it LOL

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Finally got around to doing the swap today. Runs great; no check engine light, but I do need to reset the ECU since it's holding major RPM after going WOT.

FWIW, I weighed the stock setup at 21.8 lbs and the 3.7 at 14.8 lbs, but I should note I weighed the stock setup with the P2R spacer. Can't see that being any more than 1/2 a pound, so my scale says ~6.5 lbs difference between the two. Regardless, 7lbs gone, and I'm going to order the 21 lb Braille shortly, so bye-bye ~25 lbs total.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I have been driving without it since the install. Do you think we really need it? If so, I still have the new one. Just didn't really try.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Anx...why dont you get the 18lb battery....it has enough juice to power the car....I am running the 11.5lb battery and it worked like a charm when the weather was nice (60deg plus)....the minute it drops in the 50's the battery looses juice and is not able to start the TL....

if I had to do it again, I will def look into the 17/18 lb-er....

Sonnick

Nice! Any noticeable difference? The J30/32 should have more gains since the manifold isn't as free flowing as the Type S (thanks to the OP).

What do you mean holding major RPM? As in the RPMs refusing to drop?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

are you talking about Rev Hang?

the fenda rolla

Just another idea for a battery, try a Deka battery. From everything I've read Braille batteries are just rebadged Deka batteries and for almost twice the price!

And I suggest taking Anil's suggestion even further by maybe getting the 15 lb. Deka EXT20L, this is what I just got and it's been starting perfectly:


And the terminals:


It's the same exact battery as the Braille B2015 but much more expensive:

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ this battery only has 310CCA....the TL needs 450CCA to start....so the deka, just like the 11-lber will work just fine in the summer but will suck in the winter LOL...

the fenda rolla

^^^ well fortunately that's 310 CCA at 0 degrees...at 32 degrees I would imagine it's a bunch more...but I will report back on how it handles these brutal Texas winters...lol

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I did look into the 17 or 18 lb one (whichever it is) and the more I read on other forums, the 21 lb is the way to go in a colder climate. I believe it's the lightest one Braille recommends in cold climates. Hell, we usually see at least a week or two in January with lows 10-15 below 0 and highs never getting out of the single digits. That's the cold that makes your nose hairs freeze and I'm not gonna risk the car not starting to save four lbs.

I will look into the Deka though. I did run across some other people talking about them.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

It's almost like it doesn't know where it needs to be. It'll just keep "hunting" after I floor it and let off. It'll hold at 5k for a couple seconds, then drop a few hundred and hold it there, then drop a few more hundred. Eventually it'll drop to idle, but it takes a long time. It's not your standard rev hang. I'm sure an ecu reset will fix it though.


Not really sure yet on the power since it was raining pretty hard, so I couldn't really get a feel for it. I wanna say it's actually stronger in the midrange, but not sure yet. I did a couple quick 60-80 and 65-85 pulls and third just felt stronger initially.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

OK, after reading this thread I got motivated to pick up the J37 manifold. After looking over the parts illustrations I decided to take a chance on the ZDX manifold. Just got it today and it looks just like the TL manifold but unpainted. So I saved a few bucks, but I think I would have preferred the TL manifold! Anyway, just wanted to post up in case anyone else doesn't care so much about looks. And yes, it is magnesium.

the fenda rolla

^^^ Lookin' good Euro! I was also thinking about the ZDX manifold especially since it's $40 cheaper, but I was unsure about the differences in volume compared to the TL manifold...keep us posted on the results! And if you can post some before/after dynos that'd be even better!


Totally agree with the larger battery for the colder climates...better safe than sorry! Since I'm in TX I took the risk of lighter over higher CCA...but yea, definitely check out them Dekas as well...

On a sidenote, I notice you're running the HFC/j-pipe and XLR8 resonated catback...how's the rasp with your setup?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

might be vaccum leak? How is the idle?

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I had to take an X-acto knife and trim some of the adhesive they use when mating the manifold. It looks like the second port from the left in your pic has the same thing going on, but maybe it's just the pic.



No rasp at all, just some mild drone at times. And the resonator is the smallest I've ever seen. It's actually part of the piping and I remember when I first got it, I thought they had sent me the non resonated version since it was so stealth. It barely bulges out from the piping.

Maybe, but I don't think so. I was pretty careful hooking everything back up. Just unhooked the negative cable and going to let it sit for awhile, then do the idle relearn. Seems to idle a bit high, like 1200 after start up, but then it settles. Idle is smooth.

Euro-R_Spec_TSX

Thanks for the tip. I just checked and there is some excess adhesive in several of the runners, so I'll have to trim it like you did.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I dumped the negative terminal for about an hour, then started it up with everything off and let it idle for 15 minutes. Idle stabilized around 800. Turned it off and started it back up, idled at 1200 for a second, then settled at 800 right away. Did some 3-5k revs and it didn't hang, so hopefully it's good. I'll find out tomorrow. I still need to remove the bracket from that thing in the back and zip tie it.


t0talacuratl, any ideas why you didn't gain much power? I was thinking maybe it was because you had a ported stock manifold, but so did Sonnick.

Izzy-Type-S

iTrader: (1)

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