ECU Reset after CAI & Exhaust install - difference?
It takes a week or more- up to 500 miles normal driving, for all the systems to relearn after an ECU reset
When you make a big change like exhaust- you NEED to reset the computer, to learn the new airflow rates and ratios
When you make a big change like exhaust- you NEED to reset the computer, to learn the new airflow rates and ratios
OR
put the car in stall mode (1 before start where it lights up and runs on battery), turn off all accessories (a/c, radio) then press the gas pedal to the floor for about 30-45 seconds. Then turn off and then turn on the car.
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
ok how did you isntall the cai intake without taking out the battery...
oh yea everyone takes off the bumper
I don't lol so I pull out the battery... its out the car for 30min anyway
oh yea everyone takes off the bumper
I don't lol so I pull out the battery... its out the car for 30min anyway
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I didn't think it was possible either without taking off the bumper with all the DIYs and threads i've seen here but the guy at the shop managed to to it since they put the car up on the lift. By turning the driver side front wheel outwards, they were able to remove partially the plastic panels within the wheel well and under the bumper. This allow him to remove the stock unit and put in the CAI - I watch the entire process and was pretty impressed.
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
^ yup... I actually put the wheel off and peal the fender liner back behind the hub... then remove the battery/battery under shield and then the stock intake box and all that other crap thats there... then from underneath I take off 2 metal rivets... then a 10mm bolt near the radiator hose and under the bottom of the battery/ then pull out a section of plastic from underneath, then lastly another 10mm bolt and done... 30mins last time I did it
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
I can see how it may be possible to do it without battery and bumper removal... but damn that takes manipulating a 10mm rachet in ways I will not want to lol
remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes, make sure you have your radio and navi security codes handy
OR
put the car in stall mode (1 before start where it lights up and runs on battery), turn off all accessories (a/c, radio) then press the gas pedal to the floor for about 30-45 seconds. Then turn off and then turn on the car.
OR
put the car in stall mode (1 before start where it lights up and runs on battery), turn off all accessories (a/c, radio) then press the gas pedal to the floor for about 30-45 seconds. Then turn off and then turn on the car.
the TL's Radio and Navigation system are designed to self lock when power is removed from them for X amount of time (I think 3-4 minutes). So when you restore power, you will need to type the code into the radio and navigation system to unlock their functions, otherwise neither will work.
Ok... bringing thread back on topic, original question - will it make a big difference?
Currently I feel the exhaust is overpoweringly loud especially in the 2300-2600 rpm range (the drone everyone talks about) but I mean the noise is just really high in the cabin. Will resetting help with that?
Currently I feel the exhaust is overpoweringly loud especially in the 2300-2600 rpm range (the drone everyone talks about) but I mean the noise is just really high in the cabin. Will resetting help with that?
I will know within about a week... I took it to the track the night I got CAI, J-pipe and Greddy Evo 2 installed (without ECU reset) and ran a 9.875 in the 1/8 mile. I will reset and put some miles on it then take it back to the track and see how I do... I will let you know soon
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