ECU Reset after CAI & Exhaust install - difference?

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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 03:21 AM
  #1  
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ECU Reset after CAI & Exhaust install - difference?

Anyone notice any substantial difference after they installed a CAI and exhaust but not reset the ECU and after resetting the ECU?

Thanks!
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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It takes a week or more- up to 500 miles normal driving, for all the systems to relearn after an ECU reset
When you make a big change like exhaust- you NEED to reset the computer, to learn the new airflow rates and ratios
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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How to reset ECU?

The student approaches the feet of the master...

"Master?"

"Yes, Grasshopper?"

"How does on reset the ECU in an Acura TL?"

Inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks!
Steve
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by sr1sws
The student approaches the feet of the master...

"Master?"

"Yes, Grasshopper?"

"How does on reset the ECU in an Acura TL?"

Inquiring minds want to know!

Thanks!
Steve
remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes, make sure you have your radio and navi security codes handy

OR

put the car in stall mode (1 before start where it lights up and runs on battery), turn off all accessories (a/c, radio) then press the gas pedal to the floor for about 30-45 seconds. Then turn off and then turn on the car.
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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Thanks! Battery is easy

Steve
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 12:20 AM
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why would you need the battery and radio codes?
-noob question i know =X
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 02:46 AM
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ok how did you isntall the cai intake without taking out the battery...

oh yea everyone takes off the bumper I don't lol so I pull out the battery... its out the car for 30min anyway
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by stillhere153
ok how did you isntall the cai intake without taking out the battery...

oh yea everyone takes off the bumper I don't lol so I pull out the battery... its out the car for 30min anyway
I didn't think it was possible either without taking off the bumper with all the DIYs and threads i've seen here but the guy at the shop managed to to it since they put the car up on the lift. By turning the driver side front wheel outwards, they were able to remove partially the plastic panels within the wheel well and under the bumper. This allow him to remove the stock unit and put in the CAI - I watch the entire process and was pretty impressed.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
^ yup... I actually put the wheel off and peal the fender liner back behind the hub... then remove the battery/battery under shield and then the stock intake box and all that other crap thats there... then from underneath I take off 2 metal rivets... then a 10mm bolt near the radiator hose and under the bottom of the battery/ then pull out a section of plastic from underneath, then lastly another 10mm bolt and done... 30mins last time I did it
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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^ Hmmm... I watched them perform the entire job but at no point did the battery come off - I know this for sure also because my radio etc didn't reset, weird.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chinesestunna
^ Hmmm... I watched them perform the entire job but at no point did the battery come off - I know this for sure also because my radio etc didn't reset, weird.
I can see how it may be possible to do it without battery and bumper removal... but damn that takes manipulating a 10mm rachet in ways I will not want to lol
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by csmeance
remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes, make sure you have your radio and navi security codes handy

OR

put the car in stall mode (1 before start where it lights up and runs on battery), turn off all accessories (a/c, radio) then press the gas pedal to the floor for about 30-45 seconds. Then turn off and then turn on the car.
Wow I've never heard about this stall method before. Is there any kind of confirmation to know that the ECu has been reset?
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MobTownTL
why would you need the battery and radio codes?
-noob question i know =X
the TL's Radio and Navigation system are designed to self lock when power is removed from them for X amount of time (I think 3-4 minutes). So when you restore power, you will need to type the code into the radio and navigation system to unlock their functions, otherwise neither will work.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MobTownTL
why would you need the battery and radio codes?
-noob question i know =X
It is an anti-theft feature. Someone steals it (aka, no power supplied to the unit) and thief then finds the stolen goods to be useless without the code when the unit powers-up again.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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Ok... bringing thread back on topic, original question - will it make a big difference?

Currently I feel the exhaust is overpoweringly loud especially in the 2300-2600 rpm range (the drone everyone talks about) but I mean the noise is just really high in the cabin. Will resetting help with that?
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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No.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TylerT
No.
So the Greddy is just really loud (since it doesn't have a resonator)?
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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I will know within about a week... I took it to the track the night I got CAI, J-pipe and Greddy Evo 2 installed (without ECU reset) and ran a 9.875 in the 1/8 mile. I will reset and put some miles on it then take it back to the track and see how I do... I will let you know soon
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Old Aug 26, 2008 | 11:19 PM
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^ kewl, looking forward to hearing from you
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by chinesestunna
So the Greddy is just really loud (since it doesn't have a resonator)?
The Greddy Evo II is the loudest exhaust among Comptech / ATLP.

Unresonated, some call it unbearable.
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