thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Someone has put a smile on this little kid face

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

Though I daily drive my boosted Accord, I have to agree with this to some extent. After the turbo setup was initially completed by Hickam (roughly 2 months or so down time), it still does on occasion stay a few nights here and there at my shop due to a repair or an upgrade. It definitely helps that I do all my own installs, repairs, upgrades and tuning so anyone that plans on having a dd TL or Accord (or any other heavily modded vehicle), you should definitely consider this aspect of the situation before making that initial commitment of going forced induction. Taking your time with the work and using only quality parts will add to overall reliability tenfold so don't skimp in this department. Those who think that it's an easy process, be warned. It's not for the faint of heart.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Yup couldn't have said it better. turbo idea cheap has been busted. Use quality parts the first time around and you won't have to keep buying extra stuff. I am going to see if all this effort was worth it. If not, I think I am done modding, going to sell the car after rotation, and going to look for an RL for a cruiser. Sometimes I miss driving a stock car that is smooth and quiet, other times I get a nice grin hearing that vtec scream.

more pix

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

RL > *

I'm sure you won't be dissapointed though :wink:

UTAH TSX

Looks good getting close, and $600 labor so far that is a crazy good deal for all the work I've seen here

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

oo that 600 labor was just for the intercooler, making new SS clutch line, wire tucking, cut up the front of the car to get the intercooler and piping to fit flush against the body, and getting the manifold and turbo on the car. The down pipe is probably another 500-600.

I am going to let Dom street tune the car for a while because my wallet is hurting. Running through the reserve cash pretty fast.

Also I am looking at the turbosmart 38mm ultra-gate wastegate because it is .70 inch shorter than my current wastegate. I had to modify the oem lower radiator hose because it was rubbing against the top of the wastegate.

Also the turbo manifold sits below the front subframe...Maybe need to raise the car. So in my head am like ugh... F u guy that sold me the stuff and said it was plug and play.

anyone want to trade me for an RL?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I should have said doing this when it's your only car. I am sure it can be a DD once refined but setting a schedule and relying on it as your sole source of transportation is probably in most cases not going to work out.

flexer

I don't understand why people don't just buy a $500-$1000 dollar beater and enjoy modifying cars more? Are people too good to be seen in a junker or what is the reasoning behind not having a beater when doing projects like this? Maybe it's parking? People just don't have the extra space for another car?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

There are really two kinds of DD's, the car you drive each day and the only car you have. Your car can be both the only one you have and the one you drive each day. When I was SC the TL was the only running car I had. During the first turbo install I borrowed a car for a while. By the time I was done with the first install I bought a commuter car after seeing the amount of down time. I wouldn't hesitate to drive the TL each day but, to only have the TL would be crazy. Even if I could take the train or other means to work, 4-5 weeks without a car would be nuts. For me the commute car thing is a double edged sword, it's nice to have another car so the TL can be down but , without the need for the TL I don't drive it much. Now that my commute has shortened I hope to be taking the TL out more

My issue now is I got tired of my slow ass civic and bought an is300 as my commuter and no one wants to buy the civic for a fair amount. So now I'm sitting on 4 cars and the wife is asking questions.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

In my case, it was what I had and it was my 2nd car AND designated as my toy. The kit came out, I bought it and it all went nuts after that. Kept saying "this should be it" but one thing lead to another and I am still at it. If it wasn't fun anymore, then I wouldn't still be here.

Atlas.46

I got a beater/project. 94 civic Sedan that's beat up and a f2b turbo with a evo8 manifold/twinscroll 16g. Just need to grab a wideband, get a license for the demon board, and tune.

Get that done beat on it this summer. Sell or trade for a truck and then I will boost my accord.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

THere's the problem with a 'beater' car. A true car guy will begin modifying it as well. I want to turbo my car, and my wife's Escalade. Which one becomes the reliable one then? lol

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

So true, I was looking at turbo kits for the IS300 within a few weeks of buying it. A good build breaks you of those thoughts when you remember the pain building a car is.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Don't do it, lol. I had thought of doing a turbo IS, but 1. its impossible to find a 5 speed car, 2. no PROPER tuning solutions (at least when I investgated) 3. NA motor has limited power before you have to build it.

You could do a 2JayZ swap, but that is a pain in its own ways.

LS1 swap on the IS is the way to go. Adds a lot of power stock, and is the magic R word - reliable.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

My car should be done today. Hopefully the bill is not too big. I also had to lose a fog light because of the intercooler charge piping. I don't have access to fb at the moment. I am in China for 3 weeks. I hope this builders worth the pain in the ass it cause me

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

car is done Can't wait to pick it up.

I also bought a turbosmart wastegate since it is more compacted compared to the emusa one that I bought. So that should help with the radiator hose being too close to the wastegate.

UTAH TSX

In for dyno and pics

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

No Updates?????

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I am in China getting married, honey moon, vacation

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Wow, congratulations!!

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I'll be back next week to pick up the car and then going to let Dom street tune it until I can get a opening for the dyno tuner to get some hard numbers

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Picking up the car tomorrow. Can't wait

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. Does the car crank and drive at least, or do you not know the status of it at all right now? What's the game plan when you get it back? Straight to the dyno? e-tuning with Dom to start? Make sure to take some more pics of everything.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

It cranks and no smoke or anything like that.

Game plan is to get it home on the base map (5 hour drive) and then have Dom tune so that I can workout any issue that appear with the physical hardware first. Then when it good to go I will take it to dyno tune to get number. I hate to lose another 100 dollar deposit because of unforeseen issues.

I also bought a new turbosmart wastegate ultragate because it is almost 1inch shorter than the emusa one so that should solve my issue with the lower radiator hose being to close. So if you need a wastegate LMK I put in a new diaphragm in it.

I also bought a mishimoto lower temp thermostat just to have on hand just in case. Going to see what the ECT looks like first with the OEM and see if I need the mishimoto one or not. I bought it in amazon so I can return it anytime.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Car drives . Now I need to get it tuned. Going to be driving on the base map.

Driving the car without the spring in the blow off valve right now so that it won't build up boost.

UTAH TSX

[QUOTE=thisaznboi88;15777926]Car drives . Now I need to get it tuned. Going to be driving on the base map.

Driving the car without the spring in the blow off valve right now so that it won't build up boost.[/QUOT
Don't do that it will overspeed the turbo not good at all just put the spring in and baby it home I would recommend hooking up the flashpro and your laptop and datalog while you drive so you see live what it is doing if you get knock stay off the throttle

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=UTAH TSX;15777975]Yeah, you should be able to light throttle it and not build any/much boost.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

O yeah my drive is retarded I have to climb a bunch of mountain. So I am worried. Maybe I will have it towed half way.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

You should be fine to drive it, you are still at stock compression right? You can get a good amount of power out of the engine without going into boost and driving without going into boost is not too difficult. Glad to hear that is running.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I think my compression is lower than stock due to the tls head 89mm on the accord j30a5 block 86mm. So it should be around 9.7-10.0 compression. I have a 4 psi waste in right now. When I get back home I will be swapping in the turbo smart 7psi waste gate. Right now the waste gate is less than pinky tip away from the lower radiator hose.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Okay the car is so much funner to drive with the bov spring in. Spool broom p.sh. I took it out and have Dom a catalog to make sure I was good to go for the trip. He suggest I rev higher and we can do 2-3 psi. But I want to get back home first

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Drove it 5 hours back home. No issue what so ever. The car did try to go into boost many time. I also had to add more washer to the blow off valve since it was opening when it go close to 0 psi and would just let everything out at.

So far I am happy with the car. It feels a lot more powerful even though I have not driven it hard.

hannamand

I'm used to making power in big diesel engines (5.9L Cummins) but I recently picked up a 2004 Acura LT MT.

A lot is the same, add displacement by boring or stroking, shove more air in with bigger turbos, tune the computer, injectors, fuel pump, etc to add more fuel to keep up with the additional air.

Some things are different. Direct injection technology is still in it's infancy in gas engines, so too much boost/compression and you get detonation (while diesel's have been D/I since the very beginning, and actually depend on detonation for ignition).

This seems to be the only thread I've found that talks about boost, and lowering the compression ratio so you can add more boost.

The dream: (Normally I would say "pay a professional to do it", but my son turns 16 in the spring, and learning how to build an engine is a good skill for him to have)
Buy a donor J32A3, build a low compression stroker bottom end, get out the postal scale and make sure everything is the same weight, ceramic coat the pistons, etc.
Throw on a Rotrex supercharger for the low RPM boost, see how big of a turbo will fit under the hood for the higher RPMs
I'll probably have spent more on the engine than I did on the car before I'm done, which qualifies me for the "more money than brains" club, but building something awesome with your son is priceless.

Which reminds me, if this works the way I think it should, does anyone know if this is a swap between the 4th gen TL's? If they can cross swap, I'd start with the larger 3.5L or 3.7L engine, I don't like the body lines of the newer generation as much as the 3rd gen, but it's hard to argue with SH-AWD, I think the setup would make too much HP for front wheel drive only to be able to put to the ground.

The question:
Where does everyone go to get the parts? Seems like recipes and parts are available everywhere for V8's and Diesels... with these (at least with the J32A3) not so much.



Thanks for your input.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

If you're really looking to do a project like this - I'd get to know Gerzand. He can be a great source for pistons, injectors, and a custom bracket for a rotrex blower. There's a lot of debate and concern about the single port J motors as to if they can sustain boost without detonation. I know Gerzand has converted to the older A2 style multi port heads, and I believe Youngone is doing the same. I can't find the specific changes needed to know what to do, so I'll just run single port motors and swap in a new one if they blow - they are cheap enough.

You can run expensive Pauter rods, but there are also J32 and J35 options available for a LOT less from China off-brands. One caveat for the 3.5 or 3.7 motor - you'll need a new transmission case as it's different on the 07+ engines. I've yet to see anyone retrofit the entire AWD drivetrain to a 3G, but it would be interesting to see.

I know Gerzand had planned to run a twin charged setup, but I believe he abandoned that after he hit 650whp with just the rotrex. To simplify things, I'd suggest using one or the other. I'm a fan of turbos myself (though I loved centrifugals on fox body mustangs back in the day). I'm not giving up my AC.

If you decide to do it, make sure to start a build thread!

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

The theory with the Rotrex is that you won't have the same heat related issues we are all seeing and the single port exhaust should be fine. To fit J32A2 heads requires at least welding and machining but like you, I don't know the specifics.

Andy has also mentioned putting the SC in the power steering pump position and using an electric pump as a replacement.

The one missing component in all this is the transmission internals. Andy is running straight cut 3rd and 4th gears and at least a couple people have eaten the stock 3rd gear. It appears as though M-Factory made 1 run of 10 unit's for the HPD who was doing a build but those have all been purchased. Pretty sure they'll do another run but the minimum is 10 units.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Good info in here

Just and FYI car is currently seeing 4psi of boost (boost cut at also enable currently) Dom is tuning the car right now for just drivability at part throttle. No Wot run just yet.

using about 50% throttle I seen boost at 3500 rpm in 3rd gear and 3000 rpm in 4th gear. According to the hondata datalog

Right now I wish that the car wasn't open dump tube. Once I get on it is loud and scares everyone around me. My BOV is also really loud. not just loud but Really F*cken Loud (RFL type-H BOV)

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Boosting in Mexico last night :0


getting datalog for Dom @ 4psi Not a WOT run only 56% throttle and keeping revs under 5k

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRIa...b_channel=KenP

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Part 2 in mexico

Special thanks for Paul (NVA_AV6) and Dom for taking care of me.