DIY turbo idea for cheap? LOL
08-09-2016, 10:09 AM
#601
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Lol you guys are crazy lol. The rfl bov get chatter. The piston bounce around during high vacuum. Adding more washer creates surge at low rpm part throttle. Should have bought a synapse bov
08-09-2016, 10:33 PM
#602
Whats up with this damn forum lately! I haven't seen any excitement in here for years now. Pretty soon the 3G section will be like the long lost 2G section. I've been having to get my fix on other forums as I can't deal with the boredom here anymore. Where are all the boosted guys at dammit!!?? And if you're not boosted, throw a turbo on that shit already!
08-10-2016, 07:25 AM
#604
Spent to much on car can't afford internet connection anymore
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08-10-2016, 11:03 AM
#605
I stopped posting because I felt like I'm talking to myself with post after post with no comments. Also the performance section is being taken over by auto drag race and other "best $30 mod" threads. With the car selling for $3500, no one is dropping $35k for some real power.
08-10-2016, 11:08 AM
#606
Burning Brakes
I agree the section has been pretty slow, need to watch Andy's stuff, looks like he's installed them on a few peoples rides but you don't see those people on here.
I am currently building my Integra... wayy cheaper to mod compared to the TL, Sleeved 84mm GSR - with a Rotrex
I am currently building my Integra... wayy cheaper to mod compared to the TL, Sleeved 84mm GSR - with a Rotrex
08-10-2016, 11:26 AM
#607
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Lol I agree with all of the above. If people can't afford to buy an 100 dollar intake they shouldn't be modding.
Pretty sure the car is capable of low 13 or high 12's now when it hooks up.
Also not looking forward to the 4 hour drive on Saturday morning to get that dyno. Might be loner due to road construction. More than likely I am going to stay the night there. The things we do for a race car.
Pretty sure the car is capable of low 13 or high 12's now when it hooks up.
Also not looking forward to the 4 hour drive on Saturday morning to get that dyno. Might be loner due to road construction. More than likely I am going to stay the night there. The things we do for a race car.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 08-10-2016 at 11:28 AM.
08-10-2016, 01:31 PM
#608
I stopped posting because I felt like I'm talking to myself with post after post with no comments. Also the performance section is being taken over by auto drag race and other "best $30 mod" threads. With the car selling for $3500, no one is dropping $35k for some real power.
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Hi speed (08-11-2016)
08-11-2016, 01:17 AM
#609
Lol I agree with all of the above. If people can't afford to buy an 100 dollar intake they shouldn't be modding.
Pretty sure the car is capable of low 13 or high 12's now when it hooks up.
Also not looking forward to the 4 hour drive on Saturday morning to get that dyno. Might be loner due to road construction. More than likely I am going to stay the night there. The things we do for a race car.
Pretty sure the car is capable of low 13 or high 12's now when it hooks up.
Also not looking forward to the 4 hour drive on Saturday morning to get that dyno. Might be loner due to road construction. More than likely I am going to stay the night there. The things we do for a race car.
Why do we do it? BECAUSE RACE CAR BABY!
That's crazy talk man. That's an entire days time plus 8 hours round trip! I would understand if you were going for a full tune session but just for some numbers, you are a much more curious man than I am. I've been running this motor at 16lbs now for some time and I've cared zero times about how many ponies she kicks out just as long as I'm having fun and winning races.
And to anyone that's as sick of the forum activity as I am, let's keep it going...even if we have to flood this guys thread. Haha, jk. I too am guilty as I haven't typed a single letter in my build thread for months now but I'm still just as active.
In fact, as an update, since running e85 I've seen literally ZERO knock counts and I'm starting to get a little bored since I don't feel like it's a challenge anymore with my car. I've proceeded to send my block and rotating assembly to a reputable machine shop to get balancing sorted out so that I can build a stronger base and hopefully test the limits of this thing! My 6262 is supposed to be 675hp capable and I'm planning on pushing that fucker beyond its efficiency zone. Lmao
08-11-2016, 02:03 AM
#610
Why do we do it? BECAUSE RACE CAR BABY!
That's crazy talk man. That's an entire days time plus 8 hours round trip! I would understand if you were going for a full tune session but just for some numbers, you are a much more curious man than I am. I've been running this motor at 16lbs now for some time and I've cared zero times about how many ponies she kicks out just as long as I'm having fun and winning races.
And to anyone that's as sick of the forum activity as I am, let's keep it going...even if we have to flood this guys thread. Haha, jk. I too am guilty as I haven't typed a single letter in my build thread for months now but I'm still just as active.
In fact, as an update, since running e85 I've seen literally ZERO knock counts and I'm starting to get a little bored since I don't feel like it's a challenge anymore with my car. I've proceeded to send my block and rotating assembly to a reputable machine shop to get balancing sorted out so that I can build a stronger base and hopefully test the limits of this thing! My 6262 is supposed to be 675hp capable and I'm planning on pushing that fucker beyond its efficiency zone. Lmao
That's crazy talk man. That's an entire days time plus 8 hours round trip! I would understand if you were going for a full tune session but just for some numbers, you are a much more curious man than I am. I've been running this motor at 16lbs now for some time and I've cared zero times about how many ponies she kicks out just as long as I'm having fun and winning races.
And to anyone that's as sick of the forum activity as I am, let's keep it going...even if we have to flood this guys thread. Haha, jk. I too am guilty as I haven't typed a single letter in my build thread for months now but I'm still just as active.
In fact, as an update, since running e85 I've seen literally ZERO knock counts and I'm starting to get a little bored since I don't feel like it's a challenge anymore with my car. I've proceeded to send my block and rotating assembly to a reputable machine shop to get balancing sorted out so that I can build a stronger base and hopefully test the limits of this thing! My 6262 is supposed to be 675hp capable and I'm planning on pushing that fucker beyond its efficiency zone. Lmao
08-13-2016, 04:47 PM
#615
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Soooo..... I didn't make 350whp..... 
I MADE 390WHP and 333wtq instead. in 93*F and 85% humidity. stock j30a5 bottom end with J35a8 PnP cylinder heads. Running HFPC and water/meth to save my ass.
Dom mapping vs dyno tune. (I did ask Derek to tone down the boost. So instead of 8.5 psi with Dom tune making 390whp. The car is around 380whp @ 7.5 psi) I also removed the boost controller because the car was making way too much power and hitting 90% injector duty cycle. Derek did mention that the AFR between what the car read and what his sensor read were a little skewed.
I also compared my N/A bolt on sheet vs boosted (I will post later when I get stable wifi)
I also compared my Turbo 3.0 vs Shane turbo J35 and the J35 made 100+ wtq over mine. So I can't really complain.
I MADE 390WHP and 333wtq instead. in 93*F and 85% humidity. stock j30a5 bottom end with J35a8 PnP cylinder heads. Running HFPC and water/meth to save my ass.
Dom mapping vs dyno tune. (I did ask Derek to tone down the boost. So instead of 8.5 psi with Dom tune making 390whp. The car is around 380whp @ 7.5 psi) I also removed the boost controller because the car was making way too much power and hitting 90% injector duty cycle. Derek did mention that the AFR between what the car read and what his sensor read were a little skewed.
I also compared my N/A bolt on sheet vs boosted (I will post later when I get stable wifi)
I also compared my Turbo 3.0 vs Shane turbo J35 and the J35 made 100+ wtq over mine. So I can't really complain.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 08-13-2016 at 04:49 PM.
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08-13-2016, 10:25 PM
#621
looking good IMW for the win
08-14-2016, 11:59 AM
#627
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08-14-2016, 10:05 PM
#629
+1
Even using an alcohol fuel such as e85, I've made some pretty nice gains in power by adding WMI. By testing multiple mixtures from pure water, to various water/meth percentages, to pure methanol now, I've learned a great deal about how these motors (motors in general you could say) respond in many aspects. Water gave me fair IAT cooling with low power through increased timing. This response remained up until a 30/70 water/meth mixture and began to see nearly double the IAT drop, about 1-2 degrees more timing with the ability to trim AFR down to flat 12's and produce great power by decreased elapsed times on WOT pulls. Then the biggest result was straight methanol. I seen massive IAT drops, an average of 2.5 degrees of timing added (from pre-WMI map), ability to remain 12's in AFR, and even more time trimmed (power gained) off of WOT pulls. After concluding my own tests, I'll never again inject water alongside methanol again based on my results.
I'm sure those using pump gas would see even greater results if the engine's tuned properly. If it's not tuned for the WMI, expect little results, if any at all. It's also extremely critical the nozzle is sized appropriately to the engine and the MIN/MAX settings are set correctly on the progressive controller. Anyone NOT using a progressive controller be very cautious about your activation point (RPM and boost pressure) as the engine runs a risk of hydrolocking if it's set to come too early.
I'll be setting mine up next weekend using a Volvo cold start injector so that I can use the AEM FIC-6 to bring the meth in using a PWM signal which takes into account so many other variables that the standard issued progressive controllers just don't have. This will allows the methanol to be injected just like the ECM controls the fuel injector on the engine. The FIC-6 will also formulate the engine RPM as well as the TPS signal to provide greater accuracy and of course better tuning. I actually bought a retired stainless steel fuel cell on eBay that I'll be installing a methanol compatible in-tank pump into which will then use a separate braided steel line to supply the cold start injector (using a custom mini fuel rail) 100% methanol. I'm now considering using the AEM WMI system as a intercooler spray setup instead activating off of post-intercooler IAT's and MAP for better overall control as next year I'll have my AC functional and I'm pretty sure that the condenser will add gobs of heat into the intercooler. Having both the methanol injection and water spray system should should ensure maximum reliability and power at high boost levels.
08-14-2016, 10:09 PM
#630
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^ IMW = Innovative MotorWorks. not WMI= water meth injection.
lol Robert go to sleep it is getting late ;p jp jp
Good info. Turn out my nozzle are underside, need to contact the tuner again to see what he recommends need more W/M to help keep exhaust gas temp down so that the HFPC don't melt.
lol Robert go to sleep it is getting late ;p jp jp
Good info. Turn out my nozzle are underside, need to contact the tuner again to see what he recommends need more W/M to help keep exhaust gas temp down so that the HFPC don't melt.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 08-14-2016 at 10:13 PM.
08-16-2016, 12:53 AM
#635
Understood.
Curious Dom, is it ideal to tune the top of the low ignition table to where it transitions into the high table at the exact same timing value? I've noticed that no matter how hard I try and smooth that out the transitional gap, the shift retard compensation seems to throw my timing into the dirt (sometimes as low as -5!) even with the gear compensation set to -100 all the across all gears. Any ideas to this?
It does make for some pretty badass pops and flames during shifts but in reality it's killing my times!
08-16-2016, 08:17 AM
#636
Understood.
Curious Dom, is it ideal to tune the top of the low ignition table to where it transitions into the high table at the exact same timing value? I've noticed that no matter how hard I try and smooth that out the transitional gap, the shift retard compensation seems to throw my timing into the dirt (sometimes as low as -5!) even with the gear compensation set to -100 all the across all gears. Any ideas to this?
It does make for some pretty badass pops and flames during shifts but in reality it's killing my times!
Curious Dom, is it ideal to tune the top of the low ignition table to where it transitions into the high table at the exact same timing value? I've noticed that no matter how hard I try and smooth that out the transitional gap, the shift retard compensation seems to throw my timing into the dirt (sometimes as low as -5!) even with the gear compensation set to -100 all the across all gears. Any ideas to this?
It does make for some pretty badass pops and flames during shifts but in reality it's killing my times!
08-16-2016, 08:24 AM
#637
08-16-2016, 01:11 PM
#638
Unless they've altered their fuel overrun, they wouldn't have the pops/bangs. Mine simply does that because it's been tuned to not cut the fuel at low map areas. They would, however, still be able to see the ignition retard I'm describing at shift points. I'm sure by simply reviewing one of Kens previous logs, you would be able to see what I'm describing.