Ok fellas/ladies

I currently drive a 05 White TL (Auto)
AEM CAI (installed)
I have done cosmetic updrades like TL-S tails and side markers and color matched mud flaps

I love this car, it hauls ass from 30mph and up but I need a little more power down low. (I've even raced a 350z on the highway and was running with him all day from a rolling start)
I recently heard J-Pipe is impressive so I think thats my next mod.
Do I need to do the full exhaust with this? I dont really like the loud ass cracking exhaust. I want the most natural sounding system out there. Any recommendations. What other Mods do you guys recommend? Can you provided estimated total HP after the mods. Im not sure what HP this car has stock

 

*provide*

 

There are lots of threads on this.

anyways, you don't really need a full catback for you j-pipe. i heard of bottle necking but I'm not sure about the whole thing.

I am purchasing an RV6 dual exhaust, from what I read is good on gains.

comptech is the closest sounding to stock.

 

There are tons of threads....

think of the exhaust components in 4 parts.

Precats-->J-pipe-->3rd cat-->mufflers.

if you replace any of these, the other 3 parts are going to restrict air flow. but you'll still notice gains.

I replaced my factory jpipe with Ritchies V3.

so now its like this:
Pre-cats-->V3 Jpipe-->mufflers.

As you can see the V3 jpipe gets rid of the 3rd cat. but is still being restricted from the pre-cats.

I felt improvements with just the jpipe upgrade. Well worth the money!

 

Good info here and im assuming since its so popular you guys havent had any problems passing emissions?

 

Only installin pcd will have probs with emissions

 

If you really want the TL to have amazing power right off the start, you either need boost, weight reduction, or a high stall torque convertor. If you can locate a convertor with at least a 2,800rpm stall you'll easily smoke the tires through all of first. Traction will be your newest problem.

 

A UR Lightweight Crank Pulley and Richies V3 Jpipe really helped with my low end torque and mid-range.

 

Im excited about these new mods that will obviously help my low end. I swear I think I would get beat off the line by a corolla. Im content with the mid and high end on this car. Its pretty quick other than from a dead stop. However, tell me more about this torque converter and how much is that

 

Hey IHC, I was wondering if you had any experience with performance torque converters on newer/luxury cars. I don't know much about it, but I was wondering whether this would mess with the engine's rev-matching.

Since the torque-converter will slow down the engines rev-drop... would this make shifts slower (if the ECU is waiting for the RPM to drop before completing the shift) or would it simply force the shift to take place at a higher rpm? If it simply waits longer for the shift, doesn't this reduce any potential benefits?

I'm talking about a larger torque converter of course, not just a high stall-torque converter. Thanks in advance.

I don't think it's a common mod for the TL's (correct me if I'm wrong). But it comes with pros and cons.

The high-stall torque converter will allow more power to the wheels on launch since you can rev your engine much higher before releasing the brake. However, this higher stall torque will cause your torque converter to slip much more during daily-driving, lowering your mpg/efficiency with it.

Cost-wise a torque converter itself is fairly inexpensive, though the work is labor intensive, so it can get expensive if you're not doing it yourself.

 

i have an injen CAI and the atlp j-pipe, race pipe and catback. i noticed a difference just with those. im debating about a new pulley. does anyone have anything convincing on the pulley or is that up in the air on whether its noticable or not. ive read both sides of that story...

 

I've done them in newer computer controlled transmissions with no issues. Never in a TL so it's still up in the air.

Shifts occur just as quick but you no longer feel them at all except at full throttle. In fact it's easier on the trans at part throttle because there's less shock during a shift.

It can definately lower mpg. I was down around 8mpg in the old turbo days when my car required a 3,500 stall to spool the turbo. With it's current 2,800 stall it gets about the same city mpg as the TL which isn't very good.

Several companies will take a stock convertor and "restall" it for $100-$200. Of course, that's after the labor of pulling the trans out to get to it.

The best way I can describe going to a high stall is the car feels like it dropped 1,000lbs. Off the start it will be much closer to it's powerband and feel very snappy. Driving around normally the rpms will be higher, keeping it closer to the powerband. At full throttle it should really help with that 4th gear drop off out of vtec. The engine *should* be able to stay in vtec full time at full throttle depending on what stall you get.

It probably won't pick up any mph in the 1/4 but it will get to the end much quicker. Most 5ats have no traction issues with a decent set of street tires. Putting drag radials or slicks would be a complete waste of time. But with a high stall convertor it could actually take advantage of the sticky tires.

A large trans cooler is a must as it will produce more heat. I could only dream of a 2,800 stall in a TL. In my experience you can barely tell it's there under light throttle but put your foot into it and rpms shoot up even without downshifting and it feels like a slingshot.

I would never go to the trouble of doing this to mine since I don't race it but if/when the trans goes out it's 100% for sure getting a higher stall. I know how well my torque monster car responded to a high stall. I would imagine the low torque/high hp TL would respond even better.