^^^ I recently started monitoring my AFR so I am not sure about your situation....

but now that i think about it (and thinking out loud)...when i did the intake side mods I was getting amazingly awesome mpg...(maybe from being lean)...the exhaust side mods did reduce my mpg a little bit....i also blamed it on my right foot but its good to know there were other factors involved...

 

Is this at full throttle or normal driving? How long after the manifold was this af taken? The problem with a larger throttlebody is you're letting considerably more air in at partial throttle, especially right off idle. It's similar to that old electronic product that throttle enhancer that opened the throttle more for a given pedal input. The result was improved responsiveness and the perception that the car is faster. As you get closer to full throttle the effect is less and less. What's different with the larger TB is the ECU does not know you're doing what amounts to opening the throttle more than its aware of. While this can have a fairly large effect on part throttle AF ratios it can also cause problems with tip in performance and cause a slight stumble when you first hit the gas. It would effect the AF just because the throttle is opening more than the ECU realizes but I'm surprised the 02s have not taken care of the issue unless there hasn't been enough time.

 

The only possible way the AF can change from intake mods other than the TB is if you're bringing in cooler air and the car was detonating before the mod. You need to monitor knock retard to get the whole picture. Exhaust mods should do nothing but improve mpg and power. If the piston doesn't have to push as hard on the upstroke and during overlap you get more exhaust out and more intake in for less "natural egr" you make more power and mpg. I'm not intending to preach just bored. I'm in the middle of a move and at the new place there's no tv or computer or even a place to sit so this phone and acurazine is all I have lol.

 

LOL

Matt, that makes a lot of sense....back then i didnt even know what compression ratio is

now I am monitoring and logging multiple parameters....

 

This was where I was getting at. On the money!

 

This was on the wideband at the dyno, so it would have been measured at WOT, and was measured a couple of days after I put the 3.7 mani/tb in. The one thing I am noticing is that if I hold the gas pedal down just a slight bit to maintain speed at a higher rpm, I will occasionally get that stumble. The car stutters a bit which I can entirely attribute to the larger TB conflicting with the ECU. If i'm 2-3k rpm I'll never have the problem, nor under load. The tip-in issue would make sense given the symptoms.

 

So, did this project die?

 

I'm stilling willing to do these if I think enough people will buy them. If enough don't it's not worth the vendor charge. If anyone has any questions about them you can PM me.

 

You're in luck, Flashpro will be your best friend here in your sale.

 

So this is long overdue, but figured I should post this here as well. This is my before/after 4" CAI dyno. Keep in mind I am FBO including the 3.7 IM/TB, so my gains will differ from those who don't have the 3.7 setup. However, if you do have the 3.7 setup, a 3.5 or 4" CAI is a must. There is power to be made everywhere.

Graph is below. This is a long CAI with velocity stack compared with my AEM V1. Red is the V1 and blue is the 4". As you see, there are gains literally everywhere minus the last 200 RPM.

 

Has great mid range power all the way to redline. I like your 5K PRM range.

 

Sonnick wanted to ask you this since a while....

how is the band below 3K? the dyno doesnt show that and i bet most of us while city driving shift around 3-3.5K

 

Intake

Low rpms = MPG's

Sonnick * what's your temps on your IAT?

 

No idea about the temps, never checked nor have the equipment to check.

In terms of low end, it feels about the same as it was prior to the 4". Not sure that my butt dyno is all that accurate though. I will say this: I haven't really had the chance to get on it from low RPM in 1st gear because of the cold weather and lack of traction. Now, I definitely noticed increased low end after the 3.7 IM with the butterflies intact compared to my ported manifold with them removed. I can't say I've noticed (or had the chance to test) the low end the same way I was able to after the 3.7 setup.

 

^^^ Thanks for the honest answer....

yeah the dyno didnt show anything below 2.5K rpm's and hence made me curious....

 

So people are up to date. I may be given a job offer this friday, IF I'm offered the job I will take it and will be working 6 days a week. So, if I get the job will not have time to make these. I could make a few here and there but not enough to support the vendor charge every month.

 

+1

Just take a look at the intakes p2r sold for the j32. 4" that has a long taper down to 3".

It showed gains from 2.5k rpms all the way to redline. He was just a 3.2 with bolt-ons and a tune making over 300 whp. Heads were stock, just bored tb, ported im, ported runners,long tube headers, and 3 inch single exhaust.

 

Even Woot692 from 8th is suprised about your new tasteful mods.

 

What is that midrange gain? About 10wtq?

 

Lol I haven't spoken to Woot in awhile. How did he find out? That sneaky bastard lol. He's a real cool dude, and very knowledgeable as well.
Around there, yea. I'd say 5-8whp/tq throughout the range and 10 in some spots. However, I'm sure the velocity stack added a few HP as well. My intake is also a solid 6" longer than the V1, which may have attributed to the large midrange gains and minimal gains up top.

And I agree with the taper remark....I think if I would've tapered the intake down at the TB I would've made a couple more HP, but you can't argue with these gains.

 

I wanted to do the velocity stack....but the panty hose filter scared the shit out of me LOL

 

True. The taper idea is definitely solid, but the price for an extra 2-3 hp wouldn't be worth it to many people at all. Your probably looking at an extra $100 for such a thing, just guessing.

 

Hey y'all, I'm slowly back in the scene. Here's what I been working on...

 

FUCKING SICK!!!!

 

Real carbon tubes and 5d cf wrapped couplers

 

^^^Where do we sign up?

 

Quoted for truth. Do share man

 

sheeeeet wow

 

Sick AF!!!

 

Sorry guys on no diy, I'm lazy as shit lol! Rockwest composites for carbon tube, mandrel bending solutions for elbows/reducer. Got their carbon look stuff which wasn't good enough so I wrapped them with 5d carbon vinyl including wrapping ss couplers (should help keep the wrap on). Butt dyno feels maybe 2 hp coming from aem v2 and a bit louder.

 

Think you could give us some rough dimensions / coupler info if some of us want to try and recreate it? Would be much appreciated

 

If the TL is the same as the RL its a 90 and cut the lower piece at a 15deg angle and it will work with a velocity stack.

 

Sorry for lagging guys. I'm eventually opening everything up to add a pre filter. I'll take pics with dimensions then. I only went with a 4" 90 and a 4-3.5" coupler for tb.

 

Any update on the pics and dimensions? If you can get us the complete parts and dimensions I'm sure most of us can go from there.

 

So much want on this picture. Now I want to sale my customer 3.5"-3" CAI and attemp to do something like this. Props pearl on making something unike and making us jelly in the process.

 

 

Subbed. Buying parts for my 4" CAI now. Still wondering if I can get the IAT bung online.

 

Bumping this for all the new guys. Nowadays you can find 4" carbon 90's. You would just need 3 to 4" coupler, straight 4" tube (enough for top and bottom section), 4" 90, and two 4" couplers and the intake of your choosing

 

If you're looking for sound, just slap a cone filter straight onto the throttle body!!!

 

Where are you finding the 4" carbon? Just pulled the trigger on the 3.7 TB and Mani swap. Are there any kits for cai? Amongst my search, have only come across a guy who makes sri kits.