4 inch CAI
 

Steven Bell gave me permission for this thread to happen and that if there is enough interest I will become a vendor and have these for sale. He never mentioned I could not mention price, so as of right now it looks like they will be MOD EDIT. I am trying to keep these under $200 shipped so that they will be much more affordable than competition while offering better performance!

The first person interested will get the 4 inch CAI at price (price of materials + shipping)!

I have the ability to make these but I am hesitant to become a vendor until I know people are wanting to buy them. I made one for my car and with just a little tweaking (I know what needs to be done to fit) it will fit perfectly.

There is a dyno that showed a 4whp and 3wtq over a AEM intake (this was done on an accord with mods).

Here is a picture of the dyno. http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/IMAG0714.jpg


I am needing 15-20 buyers. If anyone is interested start a list.



Adam


So here is the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh07Awn1zFU

Adam

What is it?

It is a 4 inch diameter cold air intake. You can see what one would look like in the video I posted. To my knowledge since it out performed the aem cold air intake it is the best intake to get, and it is also noticeably cheaper. :thumbsup:

Adam

i would be interested. I have been wanting to do a custom 3.5" or 4" intake. Would you be able to have the breather tube on the intake for the crankcake ventilation hose, and a threaded insert for the air temp sensor? if possible, can you also possibly provide a diagram of your design? exact specs of length, turn radius, and angle?

and how would you utilize a mounting bracket? there is a mount that aem v2 intakes use, something similar to that would be great as i hope its not just sitting there without a mount

I do not have a welder in my garage. I'd have to drive to my shop and have them do it. Since this is aluminum I'm not even sure if they would be able to do that. If they can, then it will affect price, probably increasing it by at least $25. I could include a breather filter if you'd like instead, this option would also be cheaper adding about $10. The above goes for the air temp sensor. If they can weld aluminum it can be done, but at a price.

As of now my car has not had anything but a tube relocating the crankcase ventilation to the ground.

Edit: I will find out tomorrow if the welding can be done, and at what price.

Radius is 6 inches. I don't know the length. 90 degree turn.

ok cool. theres a couple ppl with 4" custom intakes on v6 p, maybe I'll see what their results are

Yeah. I'm one of them. That dyno was pulled off directly from a thread on v6 p. On that thread he moved the battery, with mine as you can see in the video that is not necessary.

since i recently moved to a zdx TB, i would definitely be interested in this, but because I also moved to the 3.7 manifold, I would need a thread insert for my IAT sensor, which currently is threaded into my aem v2 intake.

Was that cai for a 3g or 4G TL? If it was for a 3g where did you get the bung for the iat?

the aem v2 is for the 3G TL. It came with the threading for the IAT, along with a fill bolt in case you didn't need it. When I went to the 3.7 manifold, I just pulled the fill bolt out and threaded the IAT right in.

That's right. I remember reading that a few months back now. I'd like to have the bung addedfor those who wantt it. Unfortunately I do not know the specs for the iat sensor. I'll do some digging and try to find out.

Ok. Looks like it's an 18mm and 1.5 bung that is needed (found this info off this site). If anyone can verify that would be great. :thumbsup:

The part will be $15 and then however much to have it welded on (if it can be done) and then my time to pretty the weld up. So we are probably looking at an additional cost of $35. Bring it to around 200 before shipping.

These could be painted. Of course that means the price would change. I'll do whatever it is the client wants.:thumbsup: If it were painted and had bungs welded in, it would probably cost as much as an aem, but would out perform it as shown in the dyno.

I'm interested as well...for my future ZDX TB...

The only difference would be a bigger coupling, 3 inch vs 3.5 inch.

Edit, I'm wrong a 3 inch would still work.

1st buyer position has been taken. Anyone feel free to a second position in case there is a fall through.

What kind of material are you using for the intake and what kind of filter will you be using? I'd be interested but I will need more dyno's of before and after, AFR's to where the power is coming from and where is it losing power. Being it this huge, i would believe that on a stock engine, it may lose or gain very little.

i might be in.

pictures of it sitting in engine bay?
and where does it draw air?

I cant view vids at work.

Honestly i'm not sure what it would make on a stock engine. That is the only dyno I know of for this.

If anyone has a stock tl and will dyno before and after I will give them a special deal.

It's aluminum and a K&N filter.

It draws air from the wheel well just like the aem v2. I don't have any pictures of it, sorry.

The bung for the IAT is 12mm 1.5 I just had to fabricate one myself since I'm going with the 3.7 mani and my DC Sports CAI didn't have a bung for the IAT. I bought an aluminum collar from Ace Hardware for $1.60 and tapped it.

I wonder if we could use something like this for our IAT sensors.
http://www.evans-tuning.com/blog/wp-...-weld-pile.jpg

Weld it on to the intake and plug the IAT into there.

Excellent. Thank you. I came to the same conclusion myself after finding out my shop cannot weld aluminum. I'll just get the necessary drill bit and tap to create the threads. This will be cheaper and look better.

Your thread may have been approved by Steven Bell but you may not take orders. I have deleted a couple of posts. This is simply an interest/feeler thread. If it turns into a sale thread, I will unfortunately have to close it.

Also, I have edited the price out of the first post. However, you can give a ballpark of where you think the price will be. I know it's splitting hairs really but the rules are the rules.

Good luck with the product. :thumbsup:

I THINK now that this has taken affect that the price will be $200 before shipping.

That est price is due to the forums vendor charge, and the added vac line hose that everyone is wanting.

Here is another video giving you an idea of what the vac line hose will look like.


I also want to add that the finished product will not sit as low to the wheel area and it will not have the curc that points it toward the wheel.

I need 7-10 yes or a mix of yes and maybes of 15+.

Add your name to the list if you are a yes or maybe.

1. I_love_cars YES
2. Paperboy42190 maybe
3. The fenda rolla maybe
4. Justnspace maybe

change mine to a yes!

My homemade bung...

Attachment 8210

1. I_love_cars YES
2. Justnspace YES
3. Paperboy42190 maybe
4. The fenda rolla maybe

Since my car doesn't have a iat I have no knowledge about it. If I tapped into the intake will that work or does it need a bung?

^ your car does have an IAT its just on the manifold.

But not on the piping. Does anyone know it the sensor can be directly in the air current or if it needs to be backed away thus using a bung?

what does the $200 actually include?
buying some ebay 4" tubing, 4" elbow tubing, 4" reducers, clamps, and misc parts is around $100ish. Are you saying you will cut the tubing to exact length etc etc and get the IAT and breather tube extensions connected as well?

btw, here is my diy bung for the IAT. Just gotta use alil silicone to ensure a good seal.

It'll be more than $100 for parts. Yes I will be cutting the tubing to exact length. If I have to cut out both holes, that requires a SS tube which means more $$$ THE WELDS WILL NOT BE IN SS. To have both bungs welded in will be an extra $35.

With both bungs the price is raised to probably $220 + shipping. Again this is because I have to buy the bungs, pay to have them welded in, pretty the bungs up, and buy a more expensive pipe. So all in all consider the extra work done an add $20 isn't a big difference. :thumbsup:

not to mention I'm lazy.

I mean I'll rip apart my car and put it back together for funsies, but no way am I gonna bother with the hassle of measuring/cutting/fitting pipes for a custom intake if I can just pay someone to do it for me. That just sounds like tedious stuff that I don't want to deal with.

What size fitting and nut did you use for this?

Here's the nut.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290700306424...84.m1439.l2649

the fitting piece I picked up at the local Ace Hardware/Home depot. I think the thread size was mentioned in a few posts above as 12mm x 1.5. I took my IAT out and made sure it fit correctly while I was at the store.

I'm going to be making another intake. It will be a finished product for an Acura TL-S. It will have the vac line and iat bung. I hope to have some pictures up of it by next weekend.

I hope this will increase demand so that I can become a vendor and start pumping this out for you guys.

I am running a 4" SRI style intake and I have to say, I like the gains....but am running a bigger filter as well....

am not sure how this 4" piping fit the opening as my 4" CAI style was a bitch to fit and part of the reason why was the fuse box sitting right behind the piping....I did all the work myself and just between reducer and piping and filter i spend like 200 bucks....so if this intake includes a filter i think its an awesome deal !!!

just a heads up for people going to run this is that you might need to swap over to a smaller battery or will have to relocate your battery....(sorry if it was already mentioned before)

You do not have to remove the battery! :thumbsup: Though removing it before installing it makes it much easier.. The fuse box was the problem for me as well. I found out what the problem was and have found a way to fix it :thumbsup:

EDIT: and yes it is a good deal imo, and it does include the filter! I'm not making much per intake. For the TL-S the price might be $230.

Yes it is a good deal imo, and it does include the filter! I'm not making much per intake. For the TL-S the price might be $230. The price can fluctuate between buyers. If you want a K&N filter that runs me at least $50 if your fine with a cheaper one, that'll run about $30. If you don't want a vac line take another $15 or so off. Just to give you guys an idea of what I'm paying for pieces, the pipe is about $60(this is the price of the pipe i must pay for so I can have things welded), the filter is about $50 thats about $110 for two pieces.. That's not including two couplings (which aren't cheap), the things needed for the vac bung or iat sensor bung, or the labor charge I have to pay for them to be welded, or the time and gas it takes me to drive to the shop to get them welded in, or my time to make the weld look good, or my time to insure the product fits by using my own car. So yes considering everything once it is all said and done a price of about $230 leaves me little room to make $$.

I originally stated a price of about $175 that is because I didn't have to weld anything. Since I already know what needs to be bought and what needs to be cut (and how it needs to be cut) it wouldn't have taken me much time to make them. I could make 10 in my spare time everyday.

^^^ :thumbsup:

are you manufacturing the pipes/bends or getting generic bends and cutting them?

the reason I ask is i might be interested for a CAI style but would not like any IAT sensor holes and would like it to be shorter as I am more likely to run a bigger filter....

EDIT: :rofl: you read my mind, and answered all my questions :thumbsup:

also do you have an image of the final product ?

I am buying everything but a few small pieces off of the internet. The final product will be shorter than what you see in the video. :thumbsup:

No. I hope to have one made next weekend. I will take a video of it and post it when it is finished.

:thumbsup:

I want to make sure I have my ducks in a row. The TL-S iat is on the intake pipping, while the TL is under the TB?

the IAT on both the base 3.2 TL and the Type-S is on the intake MANIFOLD.

The only reason you should need to add the bung for the IAT on any of these custom intakes would be for someone (like me) who is running a 2012 3.7 manifold which does NOT have a bung for the IAT, so I had to re-locate it to my AEM V2 intake tubing which just so happened to have a bung already built into it.

again, unless specifically requested by someone for some other reason, you should never need to install a bung for the IAT on any 3G TL custom intake UNLESS they did a manifold swap on the car in question for the 3.7 manifold found in newer TL's (i.e., my car).

Ok that clears everything up for me. I thought I was correct that the iat wasn't needed on the intake pipe. When I knew you needed one I thought all TL-S had to have it! This will definitely help out in price as I will not have to have anything welded. This means a cheaper pipe, no time to go to the shop. All I'll have to do is get the correct bit for the vac line. I already have a tap set so it can be screwed directly into the pipping. Price should be around $190ish before shipping! :thumbsup: