D Loke

Dude, I just noticed you are in Franklin County. I'm up here in Roanoke. If you want a 3.5 to test on or need help with anything, let me know.

NvrDwn

I'm going to be in Roanoke tonight to get my Halo 4 copy out of Valley View Mall.

Actually that would be amazing. I'm not sure how fitment will be with the fog lights. I've ordered all the parts I need and I hope to have them all by Friday. Would you be available Saturday?

D Loke

May be out of town, not sure. But I'll keep checking back in this thread, I'll let you know!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^yeahh, about that low end torque thing...

NvrDwn

I'll let you know if I have the parts in.

From what I can tell it is on par with the aem v2 til about 4k rpm. Since you guys have a bigger engine, I think it will be less of a problem for you guys.

D Loke

I'm just curious to see the actual differences in comparing them all rather than just going by what my butt dyno says.

NvrDwn

I will have dyno prof, so there will be no questioning if it makes power throughout or only above 4k rpm.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

subd

NvrDwn

UPDATE

So I have made an intake that would work for you guys that do not have the IAT relocated.

You would get what you see in the video plus a filter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU9_RUTuxhE








Let me know what you guys think!

HairyMonkey019

iTrader: (7)

need to see videos of it on the car w/ startup and a few revs!
looks awesome!

bouncer07

I just have a bad feeling on this intake for some reason. But show some dyno results! AFR and the power making point.

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

what you need to make is a custom one for those that have superchargers

NvrDwn

Possible but it would require a lot of time, material, and a car for me to work on. They wouldn't be cheap I can tell you that now.

NvrDwn

Unfortunately I don't have the AFR, but you can see the dyno I posted, before 4K no gains, and after that there are gains.

NvrDwn

If you had a blue accord follow you this morning with a bed frame in it that was me.

vtecAccordV6

Interested in one!

vtecaccordv6- 4 Inch intake no bungs. just intake, hoses, couplers, filter and etc.

NvrDwn

1. I_love_cars YES
2. Justnspace YES
3. Paperboy42190 maybe
4. The fenda rolla maybe
5. BlitzBlack GSXR maybe
6. vtecAccordV6 maybe

Sonnick

For those with the 3.7 manifold this is a must!!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I concur !!! 4" Intake FTW !!!

NvrDwn

I'm hoping I will get a little more power than normal from pcds since I've already got a 4" cai

Sonnick

^ You are going to need the larger TB/IM to take full advantage of the 4in CAI. I know you said you would be able to make 3.5in CAI's as well. That may be better for the stock IM/TB. Not fact, just my opinion.

NvrDwn

I may decide to do the 3.5 cai.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I would highly recommend that....give the customer couple options...

so have a 4" option and have a 3.5" option....recommend a filter size but do not sell filters, let that be the customers responsibility....some like KNN some like AEM and other love Ebay...

NvrDwn

I believe I had already wrote that I would sell 3" 3.5" and 4".

As far as the filter goes I can supply any filter. Depending if you want one, and what filter if you choose to get one, would determine the price. This is a totally custom intake, even down to the color of the couplings and filter if they decide they want me to include one..

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ couplings I understand....but some people want a bigger filter, other want to stick with a smaller filter....my point is since you wont be stocking up the filters, just sell the piping and keep items shipping ready....

a lot of members in the forum like seeing their orders within couple days of paying....by the time i pay and you order my filter and you receive it, pack it and ship everything to me, thats 2 weeks right there....

then if AEM is out of stock on a particular filter, you just received a bad rating

i have seen it happen many times....look up the JnR thread....it has everything that can go wrong for a vendor with potential in there

NvrDwn

Everyone I do business with knows it will be no earlier than 2 weeks. I don't have a supplier for the pipping or couplings here. I order the pipe and everything else. If I order it all on Monday I should have it by Friday. Over the weekend I make it and ship it out the following Monday. It is usually a 2 week process. If something gets lost in shipping or they are out of stock I have to find another supplier or wait. So if you want a filter it wont take any longer. I have already explained this to a few people.


EDIT: I will add that if I get a lot of business with this then the wait will not be as long. If I eventually get 15+ a month I will stock a head of time knowing they will be bought which will cut at least a week off.

ProbyOne

Subscribed.

I am very interested in the 4" CAI.

NvrDwn

Would you like me to put you on the list as a maybe?

Atlas.46

This thread makes me want to start producing intakes again... 3.5" and 4" I was using all Vibrant products except I was using the Blox Velocity Stack Filters. There wasn't an interest in this when I was planning production of several of them. :-(

NvrDwn

Well I wouldn't say there is a lot of interest. I only have 2 that do want it. That's nowhere near enough for me to put out 1k in parts to start making these.

Honestly I'm not yet sure there is enough interest to do this yet because most people that will want the 4" will be heavily modded, which there aren't a lot of people who are. There is no prof that a 4" cai makes more power than the aem on a stock car. If there was I would imagine there would be a ton of interest as it would be the best gaining cai and cheaper than the aem.

I'll say this again, if there is someone with a stock TL or TL-S that wants one shoot me a message.

anionrings

iTrader: (2)

Sub'd

brianch

I have a noob question..

I have a stock intake.

I haven't bought a CAI because most of the guys here agree that a cold air intake doesn't give much or any gains, its more for the noise and rice factor.

So what is the difference with this cold air intake? Will the extra airflow bring real gains?

Tryin to learn here.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

well its very simple....more air + more fuel = more power....

now this only works until a certain level....another point is that you want the intake and the exhaust to be as free flowing as possible....

imagine you are out for a run and your nose is choked with sinuses....its harder for you to breath and hence your system has to work "harder" to get power out....similarly you want the intake and exhaust track of your car to be as free flowing as possible so the engine can breathe well and hence generate the power more efficiently....

now add to this the funda that cold air burns better that warm air....since the engine is sooo hot that warm/hot air fuel mixture in the combustion camber can at times burn before the spark from the heat in the combustion chamber....because of this the the ECU retards the spark timing and hence robs you of the power....

when you look at all these together....what you want is more air and cooler air into your system....a lot of us have upgraded to a better flowing and lightweight 4G SHAWD manifold and throttle body.....this allows for more air available for combustion....because of this, we need a bigger intake....hence the 4" intake....

if you put this 4" intake on a stock TL, you might not end up gaining any power as your stock diameter Throttle body restricts the amount of air entering the manifold and the bigger intake will reduce your intake velocity which you want to keep as high as possible...

hope this will help you understand the full intake scenario

NvrDwn

Nvm swoosh answered

brianch

Thanks for the answer swoosh! Clears it up. I don't plan on (at least not yet) on getting the 4G intake mani and throttle bottle. (btw what are the gains on that? and won't the car run too lean without a tune?)

I just slapped the preorder on the RV6 true dual and will likely be picking up the RV6 V3 Jpipe and HFPC soon. I've been debating if I should get a cold air intake or stick with my stock box. It seems as though most people agree that aftermarket CAI with the stock throttle body does not give many gains because the stock air box is already very efficient.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

the car has a fixed CR/AFR which is runs on....no matter how much air you give it or how much fuel you adjust its not gonna gas AS MUCH until you tune it....

you will not run lean...nor will you run rich on a OEM ECU/map...only once you have an aftermarket tune is when you run into rich/lean issues....the only time you will run lean is if you have a upstream o2 sensor messed up....that does all the trimming....

there has been a lot of debate on the CAI....i love mine....even when I had the AEM CAI, i loved it....the car did feel a little bit quicker on the throttle response and i loved the growl from it....

if I had to do it all over again, i would buy the CAI....

bouncer07

^ I think you can run lean/rich on an OEM map.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ as I said you can if your upstream O2 sensor "modifies" the map depending on how you are running....

but with just bolt ons, i doubt you will run very rich or very lean....you should be between upper 12's/lower 13's at WOT and 14.xx at idle/normal driving....

then again, am speaking from experience....I have every bolt on possible and my AFR gauge reads between these figures

I hate cars

There are several fundamental things that are never brought up in these threads.

The old saying is "leaner is meaner" which holds true most of the time. If leaner brings detonation with it, you lose power. Turbo cars run richer to bring the high combustion temps down and to help prevent detonation when there's already tons of power to spare. The TL does tend to run on the lean side at part throttle but in vtec I don't see why anyone would ever want to add more fuel to the fire.

The single biggest restriction is important but it's the sum of all restrictions that determines total restriction so even though the throttle body is the largest restriction, anything upstream of it that causes restriction hurts power.

On the flip side, if there is no restriction with the typical 3" CAI you're going to get zero gains with a 4". Someone throw a sensor in there and measure, I have.

More power needs more air. I look at CAI and exhaust as supporting mods. Give the engine what it needs for the rest to work well. In this case, a 4" may only be beneficial on the larger 3.5l or 3.7l or highly modded 3.2s where airflow requriements are increased.

From years of testing, the taper from the 4" pipe to 3" (or less) throttlebody is the single most important part of the CAI system. It needs to be a slow taper, not a 45 degree taper.

The colder air you get into the CAI, the more air you're getting. Cold air is denser so you can fit a larger mass in a given size pipe. Cold air is the same as fitting a larger pipe except you're not just able to get more of it thorugh the CAI, you're fitting more air through the intake manifold, through the intale ports in the heads, and into the combustion chamber where it will be less succeptable to detonation. This is another reason why a SRI has no place in a TL unless you consider a pipe with a filter near the fender well a CAI, then it works.

You guys focus way too much time and energy into CAI systems. Just throw something on there that picks the air up somewhere, anywhere outside of the engine bay and make sure it's large enough to not cause restrictions and call it a day. It's so damn easy to have a non restrictive CAI and never have to worry about hydrolocking or air filter life but no one ever does it. I'm seriously thinking of making a CAI the right way and selling it.

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

With the whole lean/rich thing, I assume you're only talking in regards to if the car is stock and you slap a CAI on it.

Before I had the 3.7 manifold/TB I was running hella rich at 11.6 with all my exhaust mods. Once I went to the larger intake manifold I leaned to 12.3-ish