I just want to know if anyone have installed a seperate Amplifier to run a seperate Subs for your TL?? If so, are you using the stock amp's Remote wire to the sub amp and what color is the remote wire?? Who has did it themselves and find it difficult pulling the panels and where did you hide your power/and remote wires???

 

ed, i just bought the wire kit and hooked up the power wire today, just the power wire took me an hour or so. i just didnt have the balls to pull the panels off but at the end it did.

i still dont know which wire i need to tap off of behind the headunit. im gunna read into it more and see what i can get out of it from the service manual.

 

According to another thread, the remote wire from the factory amp should be red with yellow.

 

I have a 12" sub in my trunk and the remote turn on wire is linked to one of the fuses in the fusebox by the driver's side footwell. The one that controls the heated seats if am not wrong; so the amp only comes on when the ignition key is turned to the Acc II postion. This way I can listen to music when washing and detailing my baby and not have the amp run the battery dry. I was scared of screwing around with the wires in the head unit of factory amp for that matter. Hope this helps.

 

is the remote wire the same as remote switch?

 

It's the remote turn on lead. The wire you would connect to the remote turn on lead or terminal of your amp.

 

im still confused...my cousins amp(which i gave to him) has 6 wires from the amp, 2 power wires, 2 rca wires, and 2 sub wires. i dont see any remote wires, is it really needed?

do you know which wire i have to tap into for me to get the sub working? because i need to tap those wires, use rf adaptor, and change it into rca for the amp.

Thanx
Cliff

 

Most amps have a remote turn on lead that connects to the head unit so the amp will turn on when the headunit turns on.

 

I am wondeing about this on the 04s as well. I have an 02 and did the install myself. I just tapped in to the lead off of the BOSE amp which was located behind the back seat. Does the 04 not have a seperate amp like the BOSE system does in the previouse generation? I am planning on picking up an 05 shortly and want to install my current sub into it ASAP. Thanks!

 

did you do this isntall yourself? if u did, which wire did you tap into behind the headunit?what color and what does it do.

there should be 2 wires going into the rf adaptor since 2 rca connectors come out... let me know asap please

 

I just had my amp installed last week, I had the RCA adapter connected to the rear sub FROM the trunk, not the HU.

 

the stock sub?? that means you have an amp on top of an amp.

ive got it all figured out now.

High low adaptor connect in between stock amp and HU, and goes to rca jacks to the aftermarket amp.

the rest should be easy

 

So where is the best place to hide the power 4gauge wire from the battary up front to the trunk? The 4guage wires are dam huge and thick tho!!! WIll use the remote wire from the stock amp to the aftermarket amp and buy a RCA converter to hook up to the stock sub at the back should do the trick correct??? Anyone adding any capacitor to their system. I guess you would need it if you run anything over 500watts. I have over 1000watts running into a pair of DVC Type R subs in a sealed enclosure.

 

One more thing. Anyone know where the hole is to the car from the hood inside to the car??? Have to wire the power cable from the battery to inside the car. Thanks!!

 

well, i tried to tap it off of the wires after the hu and before the stock amp...and it didnt work. so now im thinkin i might need to tap it after the stock amp


i connected the old wires bak together and the stock sub doesntturn on...what gives???

 

On my 01 CL-S I tapped into the remote going into the stock amp. On my 04TL, I ended up connecting the remote to an empty slot on the fuse box. Didn't really want to do it that way, but I also didn't want to pull all the panels off on the passenger side of the car either.

 

mount a battery in the trunk and then run smaller wire from front to rear

 

Under the steering wheel you'll see a large group of wires disappear thru a rubber gasket type thing....i used a hanger to get thru then used electical tape and taped the end of the power wire to it then pushed it thru from the inside of the vehicle. Its a pain in the ass getting the hanger out on the other side...very tight working area bt it can be done.

 

this is my trunk setup...you shouldn't have a problem running 4guage through your car... I fit 0guage without a problem:

 

Mgokool,


Nice setup Mgokool!!! So did you hide your power cable thru the passenger side and how hard was taking the panels off. Don't want to scratch or break something. Say can you post any pics of your installation if you have any. YOur system must rock and have you dnyomat your car. IT must rattle pretty crazy especially when you have the subs facing the trunk door.

sw1tchn1nja,

Thanks for the tip!!!

 

Sorry, don't have pics of the install...Power cable is ran through the driver's side...closer to battery...panels weren't hard to take off, most of it are just clips. I did have to remove the back seat though to fit the cable...but that process took couple of mins...wasn't too bad!

Trunk is dynomated doesn't rattle...dynomat is a definate plus add-on!

 

As an add-on question - how did you anchor the sub enclosure to keep it from moving during hard starts/stops? Strap or cable anchors attaching to rear seat sheet metal, pierced through the liner?

 

hey .... i have run my wires etc .. now the trunk/back rattles like crazy when bass hits..... did u use dynamate extreme or the regular .. was the whole trunk done or just certain panels ... any input would be appreciated ... i am gonna start with the license plate .. lol

 

supprisingly enough, the way the box is positioned, it doesn't move...

 

i used dynamat extreme... I did the license plate, took off the center panel where the license plate bolts onto, and covered it with dynamat also. entire top of trunk lid is covered with dynamat. It got rid of some rattles...but not all. will cover some more parts in coming weeks...hopefully that will solve my problems...

hope this info helps...if not, PM me..

 

Hey mgokool , many thanks on the info... trunk lid is dynamated (extreme) .. front part of the trunk is done as well (where the latch is) ... part of the side panels are done .. rear deck underside ...(wow).. it hits HARD !!! and almost quite .... I post this vs private pm cause I think it will help other ... (no rattles from the rear deck now either !!!)
piece that the license plate bolts to has 4 screws(nuts) on the back .. once nuts are off it moves but does not come off .. what else do i need to remove to get this whole plate off ??? also there is a small box on the passenger side in the trunk bolted to a bar (amp or something) but it rattles on the side(tighented nuts) .. i also put dynamat on this box as well quited it down ..

any advise on how to remove the panel ...would be nice .. thanks again !!! . fyi factory sub still functional as well .. all subs controlled by the factory head unit (man does it sound good)

 

follow up for those reading .. there are 4 push tabs as well as the 4 nuts .. once these are removed ... can pop it off (of course license plate and wires are off)...
well the car is all done . no rattles anymore .. side panels are not dynamated... used help novice's rear deck fix as well as adding foam to the top near rear window .. final rattle spot was the rear brake light cover .. pulls off 4 tabs ..used foam to fix
system JUMPS !!! .. no rattles ... big deep(CLEAN) bass ..using factory headunit to blend sound to my taste .....12s,fogate amp ...
thanks to those that helped !!!!

 

to get to the rear sub in the trunk, did you just take out the top liner inside the trunk? when i looked, there are 4 push-pins that hold in the liner...is that correct? does anyone know the easiest way to pop these suckers out without breaking them? haha...

is it easier to tap into the trunk or tap into the amp? i understand the amp is under the left passenger seat? ive wired all my old cars before, so i dont think it'll be a problem...just trying to find the easiest way and the best location to tap the adapter into...

thanks.

 

used needle nose pliers to grab em ...... i have a line connverter off the rear sub .. u can then control the gain on your new amp/subs once in stalled with the factory deck sub setting ..
only wire i had from the cabin .. is the power wire .. runs on the left side of the car
form the battery ... XM box is on right side . did not want to bring power wire near that

 

thanks for the information xboylive! once i take off the liner, i should have easy access to access the +/- wires off the rear sub right? i'll definitely run the power on the left side. i'll try it out hopefully sometime soon.

 

Would love to see some pics of your system if you have any!!!!!

 

Hehe .. sort of embrassed to post pics on the forum ....no lights in the trunk or snazzy effects like the others.... but I send u private ones... .. PM your email ed99 .. the dynamat is about the coolest thing in my trunk(1st time using it for me)..... I can say my install is clean .. and subs hit hard .. and I did all my wires and dynamat so I can prob answer questions for others ....