What do I need to replace brake pads?
What do I need to replace brake pads?
Sorry for the newb question, but what exactly do I need to change my brake pads? If they are squeeking, do I need to change front, rear, or both?
I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and it looks like it only takes a few minutes to change the pads on each wheel. I can't imagine it being that easy for a first timer like me, so is there anything that I should be aware of?
Any recommendation on what kind of brake pads I should buy? I've read a lot about Hawk on this site, but what is their advantage over other pads? Thanks!
I've watched a couple of videos on youtube and it looks like it only takes a few minutes to change the pads on each wheel. I can't imagine it being that easy for a first timer like me, so is there anything that I should be aware of?
Any recommendation on what kind of brake pads I should buy? I've read a lot about Hawk on this site, but what is their advantage over other pads? Thanks!
if you have a 07-08 tls it might be a little harder switching the brakes out since you have brembo brakes. but if you have base model it should be no problem. if you wanted a more sportier look you could get the slotted, drilled or the slotted and drilled rotors. usually when switching out the pads its always better to switch the rotors too. brembo break pads usually cost around 200 more or less at the dealerships.
I've got an '04 TL, 6 speed manual. The brake pads that are on now are Duralast Gold CMX, which the previous owner picked up at Autozone. Apparently they have a lifetime warranty, which means I may be able to pick up a new pair of pads for free. How long does it usually take to switch out the brake pads?
if you have a 07-08 tls it might be a little harder switching the brakes out since you have brembo brakes. but if you have base model it should be no problem. if you wanted a more sportier look you could get the slotted, drilled or the slotted and drilled rotors. usually when switching out the pads its always better to switch the rotors too. brembo break pads usually cost around 200 more or less at the dealerships.
Well if you want to do it right, you would have the rotors machined flat (or put new rotors on) with new brake pads, and bleed the calipers. But its more of a personal choice on how involved you want to go...
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Where are you located? If you are in NJ PM me for help. Also, look at the meat on pads and you will know the life left. Take a picture and send it to me or something. If it thuds when you stop there's a problem, squeaking can be normal with ceramic pads.
I've got an '04 TL, 6 speed manual. The brake pads that are on now are Duralast Gold CMX, which the previous owner picked up at Autozone. Apparently they have a lifetime warranty, which means I may be able to pick up a new pair of pads for free. How long does it usually take to switch out the brake pads?
Brakes are funny you get expensive pads they sometimes squeak, you get cheap pads they may or may not squeak but wear a little faster, I usually go with the medium grade for the regular driver.
I'll go against the crowd and say that unless you feel a shaking when you step on the brakes, you don't need to replace the rotors. The new pads will bed to old rotors just fine.
If they're shaking, then you should replace the rotors, not have them shaved, as shaved rotors are thinner, and thinner metal warps faster, which means you'll just be warped again fairly soon.
As for pad brand, my favorite is Porterfield R4-S. I've used Hawks before, but they seem to create more brake dust, which means I have to spend more time cleaning my wheels. If you go with Porterfield, be sure to get the R4-S compound, NOT the R-4 compound, which is a pure race compound and will not work well at all unless the brakes get hot like they do on a racetrack.
If they're shaking, then you should replace the rotors, not have them shaved, as shaved rotors are thinner, and thinner metal warps faster, which means you'll just be warped again fairly soon.
As for pad brand, my favorite is Porterfield R4-S. I've used Hawks before, but they seem to create more brake dust, which means I have to spend more time cleaning my wheels. If you go with Porterfield, be sure to get the R4-S compound, NOT the R-4 compound, which is a pure race compound and will not work well at all unless the brakes get hot like they do on a racetrack.
I'll go against the crowd and say that unless you feel a shaking when you step on the brakes, you don't need to replace the rotors. The new pads will bed to old rotors just fine.
If they're shaking, then you should replace the rotors, not have them shaved, as shaved rotors are thinner, and thinner metal warps faster, which means you'll just be warped again fairly soon.
If they're shaking, then you should replace the rotors, not have them shaved, as shaved rotors are thinner, and thinner metal warps faster, which means you'll just be warped again fairly soon.
Thanks everyone for the help. I lived overseas for 5+ years and never had a car, and while I was in high school/college I had a POS '86 Accord that I never did any work on myself. I've got a nice car now and want to learn the ins and outs of it, while hopefully saving myself some money by doing most of the repairs.
I'll take a look at the brake pads this weekend after I finish my last final exam for the summer. I should get my cabin air filter by then too and will try to install that as well.
The brake pads were put on about a year ago, but they've been squeaking for the last few months. Any way to get rid of that obnoxious sound?
Thanks again everyone
I'll take a look at the brake pads this weekend after I finish my last final exam for the summer. I should get my cabin air filter by then too and will try to install that as well.
The brake pads were put on about a year ago, but they've been squeaking for the last few months. Any way to get rid of that obnoxious sound?
Thanks again everyone
Hmmm, I guess I can just give you my input... I replaced my OEM pads and rotors with Ultra Performance ones from NAPA (lifetime warranty, and I don't need sporty looking/performance ones). It was fairly easy replacing the pads and even rotors. Then again I have a buddy with a ridiculous garage/tools. Took us bout 3 hrs to replace calipers and pads and bleed the brake system.
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