warming up car
warming up car
do you warm up your car?
are you supposed to warm up your car?
if yes, how long are you supposed to warm up your car?
if you don't warm up your car, does it damage the car long term?
are you supposed to warm up your car?
if yes, how long are you supposed to warm up your car?
if you don't warm up your car, does it damage the car long term?
I usually warm up my car whenever I'm not in a rush. I'm also wondering what are the consequences (if any) for not warming it up though. I don't even know if it matters or not, I just do it cuz I'm used to it.
Originally Posted by Stein357
I've read it's harmful for to let your car sit and warm up. I just get in and go. However, I'm always very light on the throttle until the motor has warmed up 100%.
I always let it warm up for 2 mins. If am in a rush i usually let it sit for 30 secs and then not letting it rev pass 2500rpm. winter i wait a bit longer if i can.
Originally Posted by Stein357
I've read it's harmful for to let your car sit and warm up. I just get in and go. However, I'm always very light on the throttle until the motor has warmed up 100%.
well it does no good to completely warm up your car for 5-10 mins when your car is sitting there wasting that gas, when the other fluids in the car have not been warmed up yet (i.e.. your tranny fluid)... so it makes sense to warm up for a min or two, then keep the revs under 2500rpm... that way, all the fluids are warming up evenly...
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i used to warm it up at least until the nag screen on the navi went away and the map came up. now i just wait until the rpms drop and then drive away. if it's cold, i'll get in ahead of time and blast the heat and turn on the seat warmers.
1) Unless it is extremely cold (~20oF), I do not warm up my car.
2) If it's below 20oF, I'll let it warm up for ~2 minutes then drive away.
Keeping the revs low (<3000RPM) until the engine is fully warmed up.
3) For typical fall/winter temps, no but in extreme cold not warming up can increase engine wear on bearings and cylinder bores. One of the reasons 5-20W is speced for many cars is for winter protection since it flows easier at those temps.
2) If it's below 20oF, I'll let it warm up for ~2 minutes then drive away.
Keeping the revs low (<3000RPM) until the engine is fully warmed up.
3) For typical fall/winter temps, no but in extreme cold not warming up can increase engine wear on bearings and cylinder bores. One of the reasons 5-20W is speced for many cars is for winter protection since it flows easier at those temps.
Originally Posted by jsong83
do you warm up your car?
are you supposed to warm up your car?
if yes, how long are you supposed to warm up your car?
if you don't warm up your car, does it damage the car long term?
are you supposed to warm up your car?
if yes, how long are you supposed to warm up your car?
if you don't warm up your car, does it damage the car long term?
Originally Posted by Stein357
I've read it's harmful for to let your car sit and warm up. I just get in and go. However, I'm always very light on the throttle until the motor has warmed up 100%.
+1
its not necessary on newer cars to let it sit and idle to warm up. just start the car and gradually drive up to speed. just dont take off and light the afterburners as soon as you leave your driveway.
when you idle and let the car "warm up", you waste fuel and the car doesnt lubricate as efficiently. but when you start driving at a modest pace, you put load on the engine, and get the fluids to circulate more efficiently. You use up less fuel to get to your destination (5 or 10 mins of idling could have been 5 to 10 mins of fuel used to travel to your destination).
from cartalk.com,
I found this article also Click Here,
"This tip also applies to warming up the car. Unless it's below freezing, cars don't need to be warmed up at all. Driving them gently is the best warm up there is. If it's 25 degrees out, you might want to let it warm up for 30 seconds. If it's 10 degrees out, warm it up for a minute. If it's -10 degrees out, move somewhere warmer."
Dear Tom and Ray: I live in San Jose, Calif., where the weather is almost always beautiful. The temperature rarely drops below freezing, even in the winter. However, when I walk my son to school in the morning (any morning, not just in the winter), I often see cars sitting in driveways running, without any driver or passengers. It seems like a waste of gas to me not to mention the fact that the cars in question are often huge SUVs used to drive a child two blocks to school. I also find myself wondering how often cars are stolen when people get in the habit of doing this. My question is: Why do people leave their cars running in the driveway for several minutes in the mornings? Does it serve some useful purpose? - Linda TOM: No, it doesn't, Linda. My first thought is that you shouldn't do anything. These knuckleheads are just wasting their money by burning expensive gasoline, reducing their already lousy mileage from 10 miles per gallon to nine and a half and slowly going broke. Don't interfere.
RAY: Well, that's a little harsh. You might take a kinder approach, Linda, and just move the car randomly to someone else's driveway. That'll mess with their heads.
TOM: Actually, they probably just don't know that warming up a car is completely unnecessary. Modern cars don't need to be warmed up at all even where there IS real winter. You start the car, you put it in gear, and if it goes and doesn't stall it's ready to go.
RAY: Right. Driving the car at a moderate speed, without hard acceleration, for a few minutes is the fastest way to warm up an engine. You don't want to jump right on the highway and floor it; three to five minutes of "in town" driving is all it needs.
TOM: If it's bitterly cold out, like 10 degrees, you might let the engine idle for 30 seconds or a minute, just to allow the oil to fully circulate and heat up a bit. But otherwise, warming up a car is a complete waste of time and gasoline.
RAY: Now, these people might be more concerned with heating up the passenger compartment than warming up the engine. In which case, there's not much you can do, except let them go broke.
TOM: But let's assume that these folks just don't have up-to-date information. In which case, leaving a copy of this article on their windshield might be a kind way of spreading the news.
RAY: Well, that's a little harsh. You might take a kinder approach, Linda, and just move the car randomly to someone else's driveway. That'll mess with their heads.
TOM: Actually, they probably just don't know that warming up a car is completely unnecessary. Modern cars don't need to be warmed up at all even where there IS real winter. You start the car, you put it in gear, and if it goes and doesn't stall it's ready to go.
RAY: Right. Driving the car at a moderate speed, without hard acceleration, for a few minutes is the fastest way to warm up an engine. You don't want to jump right on the highway and floor it; three to five minutes of "in town" driving is all it needs.
TOM: If it's bitterly cold out, like 10 degrees, you might let the engine idle for 30 seconds or a minute, just to allow the oil to fully circulate and heat up a bit. But otherwise, warming up a car is a complete waste of time and gasoline.
RAY: Now, these people might be more concerned with heating up the passenger compartment than warming up the engine. In which case, there's not much you can do, except let them go broke.
TOM: But let's assume that these folks just don't have up-to-date information. In which case, leaving a copy of this article on their windshield might be a kind way of spreading the news.
if one really really needs to start and let the car idle (so that they can turn on the heater, which looks to be the issue for some people), maybe install a turbo timer so that you can have the car running w/o the keys to the ignition. that way if someone tries to drive off with your car, once they release the parking brake, the car shuts off.
I always start my car and let it get to operating temperature no matter what the weather is. I've always warmed up all my cars. The little bit of gas I lose is worth it to me. I'd rather lose the gas than drive with a cold engine.
Originally Posted by maxAmillion
I always start my car and let it get to operating temperature no matter what the weather is. I've always warmed up all my cars. The little bit of gas I lose is worth it to me. I'd rather lose the gas than drive with a cold engine.
these are just some of the information about engine warm up procedures. they all say the same thing.
http://www.cleanair.utah.gov/winter_driving.htm
http://www.cleanairwisconsin.org/air...ecodriving.php
http://www.eartheasy.com/live_fuel_e...nt_driving.htm
http://www.cleanair.utah.gov/winter_driving.htm
Once a vehicle is running, the best way to warm it up is to drive it. Driving cuts warm-up times in half. With computer-controlled, fuel-injected engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away. Older cars should only warm for a couple of minutes. Anything more simply wastes fuel and increases emissions.
More than the engine needs to be warmed up - so do the wheel bearings, steering, suspension, transmission and tires, all of which can be done only when the vehicle is moving. Avoid high speeds and rapid acceleration for the first three miles or so. The goal is to bring the whole vehicle up to peak operating temperature as quickly as possible while maximizing fuel economy.
More than the engine needs to be warmed up - so do the wheel bearings, steering, suspension, transmission and tires, all of which can be done only when the vehicle is moving. Avoid high speeds and rapid acceleration for the first three miles or so. The goal is to bring the whole vehicle up to peak operating temperature as quickly as possible while maximizing fuel economy.
http://www.cleanairwisconsin.org/air...ecodriving.php
Idling is not an effective way to warm up your engine even in cold weather. The best way to do this is to drive the vehicle. No matter how efficient your car is, unnecessary idling wastes fuel, costs you money and pollutes the air.
http://www.eartheasy.com/live_fuel_e...nt_driving.htm
Avoid idling your vehicle, in both summer and winter. Idling wastes fuel, gets you nowhere and produces unnecessary greenhouse gases. If you're going to be stopped for more than 30 seconds, except in traffic, turn off the engine. In winter, don't idle a cold engine for more than 30 seconds before driving away. (Older vehicles, however, may need more idling time when first started. In cold, winter conditions all vehicles may need more idling time to warm up and ensure the windshield is fully defogged. Be sure your vehicle is warmed enough to prevent stalling when you pull out.)
Depends on how warm it is outside. If its below 40 degrees I'll let the rpms dip below 1k before I move it. Usually takes about a minute - no big deal, I get to drink my coffee anyway. Normally the weather is nice enough to where I dont need to warm up the car.
Lets face it. If the motor is sitting still or moving its still gona be putting hot gases against cold metal. You wont be able to thermal shock the block/heads/pistons/etc due to their design. Your motor will be in a warm-up cycle to get it within its optimal operating temps and nothing more.
Moving down the path that power takes is your trannie. from the time it takes you to start it up and kick it into drive you're fully lubed, pressured and ready to go if its an auto. And a manual? no amount of engine heat is gona pre-heat that fluid more then the heat generated from driving.
Long term damages? negative.
Moving down the path that power takes is your trannie. from the time it takes you to start it up and kick it into drive you're fully lubed, pressured and ready to go if its an auto. And a manual? no amount of engine heat is gona pre-heat that fluid more then the heat generated from driving.
Long term damages? negative.
Don't trust the stupid government websites. They don't care about your car. They only care about preventing pollution and saving gasoline. They ALL say to NEVER allow your car to idle. To make you feel guilty they say it's "bad" for your car. Yeah OK!
It's not bad for your car. It's just that it's not necessary to warm it up too long. As said newer cars don't require much of a warm at all. You should wait at least 30 seconds on a cold start when the weather is fair. Let the car's idle settle down, all the systems get going. DON'T rev the engine! On a colder day wait about 1 minute. If the car seems smooth and ready to go don't wait more than a minute. It's not beneficial, the car will only really reach operating temperture if it starts running. (for example; you know you're not going to get any heat from the climate control if you let a car idle on a cold start. It would probably take more than 10 minutes. If you were to just drive the car the heat would be coming through the vents in less that 5 minutes.)
The most important thing to do has also been said; you must drive slowly for the 1st few miles. If possible don't rev above 3000 rpms until the temp. gauge gets to the middle. This allows the car to gradually warm up.
The worst thing you can do is floor the car and drive like a jackass when the car is cold. Try to think about whats going on in the engine block, the exhaust etc. I've only done this a couple of times because I was in an emergent situation. I felt like I was literally killing the car. Try to avoid it.
If you are conscious of all this, you'll be considerate to your car. If you're a commuter who takes your car for granted, you're not going to care. Your car will start having engine problems well before anyone else's.
It's not bad for your car. It's just that it's not necessary to warm it up too long. As said newer cars don't require much of a warm at all. You should wait at least 30 seconds on a cold start when the weather is fair. Let the car's idle settle down, all the systems get going. DON'T rev the engine! On a colder day wait about 1 minute. If the car seems smooth and ready to go don't wait more than a minute. It's not beneficial, the car will only really reach operating temperture if it starts running. (for example; you know you're not going to get any heat from the climate control if you let a car idle on a cold start. It would probably take more than 10 minutes. If you were to just drive the car the heat would be coming through the vents in less that 5 minutes.)
The most important thing to do has also been said; you must drive slowly for the 1st few miles. If possible don't rev above 3000 rpms until the temp. gauge gets to the middle. This allows the car to gradually warm up.
The worst thing you can do is floor the car and drive like a jackass when the car is cold. Try to think about whats going on in the engine block, the exhaust etc. I've only done this a couple of times because I was in an emergent situation. I felt like I was literally killing the car. Try to avoid it.
If you are conscious of all this, you'll be considerate to your car. If you're a commuter who takes your car for granted, you're not going to care. Your car will start having engine problems well before anyone else's.
I should also add
4) No matter what the outside temps. When starting a cold engine, let it warm up fully before using large amounts of throttle. Also keep the revs way below redline (~3-4K RPM max for shifting). This is also important to get all the engine components up to operating temp before WOT or redlining the engine occurs.
4) No matter what the outside temps. When starting a cold engine, let it warm up fully before using large amounts of throttle. Also keep the revs way below redline (~3-4K RPM max for shifting). This is also important to get all the engine components up to operating temp before WOT or redlining the engine occurs.
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
I should also add
4) No matter what the outside temps. When starting a cold engine, let it warm up fully before using large amounts of throttle. Also keep the revs way below redline (~3-4K RPM max for shifting). This is also important to get all the engine components up to operating temp before WOT or redlining the engine occurs.
4) No matter what the outside temps. When starting a cold engine, let it warm up fully before using large amounts of throttle. Also keep the revs way below redline (~3-4K RPM max for shifting). This is also important to get all the engine components up to operating temp before WOT or redlining the engine occurs.
I get in the TL 4-5 nights a week and as soon as its started and stabalized i'm on the throttle then it gets shut down after being at operating temp less then a minute.
I read an article in Motortrend back when I was a senior in high school about this. They basically said what rockyfeller said. Just let it idle for about 30 seconds and then go. Just don't floor it until the car has reached normal operating temp. I won't go above 3K until it's fully warmed up.
Anybody who knows how engines work knows that there are different TCE (temperature coefficent expansion) in the various types of metals in the engine (pistons, bearings, rods, crank, block, heads, sleeves, cams, valves, heads,...). The clearances for bearings and moving parts is typically determined by the normal operating temp.
That's one of the reasons for a thermostat in water cooled internal combustion engine to keep the engine operating temp. Proper clearance is required for long service life a engine. Nothing required from a metalurgy class needed just basic education of engines and materials used in them.
Also most lubricants work better once they are up to their operating temp range.
That's one of the reasons for a thermostat in water cooled internal combustion engine to keep the engine operating temp. Proper clearance is required for long service life a engine. Nothing required from a metalurgy class needed just basic education of engines and materials used in them.
Also most lubricants work better once they are up to their operating temp range.
Originally Posted by deke
And your reason for this being what? Take a basic metalurgy class and you'll realize its not hurting anything structual in there.
I get in the TL 4-5 nights a week and as soon as its started and stabalized i'm on the throttle then it gets shut down after being at operating temp less then a minute.
I get in the TL 4-5 nights a week and as soon as its started and stabalized i'm on the throttle then it gets shut down after being at operating temp less then a minute.
I don't warm it up by sitting there idling. I just accelerate more "gently" than usual until the car is warmed up. I generally don't floor my cars anyway but I just lay off my normal acceleration until it is up to temp.
I've read the rings do not have enough sealing pressure at cold idle to prevent unburned fuel from blowing by. Modern rings exert less pressure on the cylinder walls than in days of old to reduce friction and improve life. It is better to drive off easy after 30 seconds than wind up with dilluted oil. Also note the oil takes 2-3 times longer to warm up than the water, so I avoid revving it for awhile after the water temp is up to normal.
Hi guys and Gals I am new to the group. I just bought my first Acura and its a TL! I have to say it is the funnest car I have ever driven.
My TL has 49k and it is for the most part free of rattles. I do have what sounds like a buzzing sound that is coming from what seams like the back of the Nav system.
Sorry I have gotten off the discussion Warm up I have always tryed to do a 3-4 min warm up in winter and in the summer I may drop that down to 90 secs or so.
My TL has 49k and it is for the most part free of rattles. I do have what sounds like a buzzing sound that is coming from what seams like the back of the Nav system.
Sorry I have gotten off the discussion Warm up I have always tryed to do a 3-4 min warm up in winter and in the summer I may drop that down to 90 secs or so.
I honestly only warm my car up in the cold weather ( 50 degrees or below ) and never thought that I wouldn't have to. I guess since we've always seen our parents warming up their older cars maybe newer cars don't need this, but i still feel like it may be better than just running idle for a minute. i usually run mine about 3-5 minutes idle. What exactly classifies an older car? Is it newer than 1990 or 2000?
Originally Posted by your_mom
According to the manual, only a 30 second warmup is necessary. Like others on here, I usually keep it under 2,500 - 3,000 RPM until the coolant is up to temperature.
I gotta lease and I'm not planing on keepong it! So you know how that goes, but when I had my Acura I would let it warm up for 1 nothing more. You have to drive the car and let it breath in the surroundings...letting a car warm up standing still is harmful to the car!
Can you really break a manual 2006 car if you redline as soon as you get out the parking spot in the morning?
I've redlined in the morning, car seems fine to me.
Lets say you do break your car redlineing when not fully warmed....than first of all its a crappy car, second its under warranty!
Just my opinion
I've redlined in the morning, car seems fine to me.
Lets say you do break your car redlineing when not fully warmed....than first of all its a crappy car, second its under warranty!
Just my opinion
One approach
FWIW, here's a quote from the owner's manual of my BMW, and their take on warmups. I think this is pretty much universal:
And that's for a car with a hand-built, high-performance motor.
The tach on the car is variable -- redline is at 4,000 RPMs if the car is stone cold. As the oil (not coolant) heats up, the redline goes up in increments of 500 RPM to the normal 7,000 RPM limit.
I watched the instruments tonight after reading this thread. I did my usual routine of getting in, starting up, and driving away gently. After a few minutes of driving, I noticed that the coolant was almost at normal operating temperature, but the oil was still not even close. (I think it was under 200 degrees -- yes, there's an oil temperature gauge.) Redline was still down at 5,500 RPMs.
Most modern engines are similar. I think the guys who suggest starting, and driving gently for the first few minutes have it right. Especially since it gives not only fluids but tires, brakes, and suspension a chance to get prepped, too.
Do not warm up the engine by allowing it to run with the vehicle parked. Instead, you should drive away immediately while taking care to avoid high engine speeds until the engine warms to its normal operating temperature.
And that's for a car with a hand-built, high-performance motor.
The tach on the car is variable -- redline is at 4,000 RPMs if the car is stone cold. As the oil (not coolant) heats up, the redline goes up in increments of 500 RPM to the normal 7,000 RPM limit.
I watched the instruments tonight after reading this thread. I did my usual routine of getting in, starting up, and driving away gently. After a few minutes of driving, I noticed that the coolant was almost at normal operating temperature, but the oil was still not even close. (I think it was under 200 degrees -- yes, there's an oil temperature gauge.) Redline was still down at 5,500 RPMs.
Most modern engines are similar. I think the guys who suggest starting, and driving gently for the first few minutes have it right. Especially since it gives not only fluids but tires, brakes, and suspension a chance to get prepped, too.
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Mugen TSX
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