timing belt replacement question 2006 TL
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
timing belt replacement question 2006 TL
Good afternoon,
2006 TL 3.2, I replaced my timing belt today and before I complete everything and put it all back together I have a quick question.
If the belt was installed correctly will all my marks(belt and cam pulley) line up after turning the crank a few times? I think I saw a video 2 times around on crank and the TDC should come back to front cam pulley. But the marks on my belt do not match.
I have 2 marks on the from cam and rear cam that aligned with the belt at the install. I am nervous thinking I missed by one tooth with slack near the water pump.
I have cranked the engine by hand a few times around but the marks on the belt and cam pulleys have never come back around to line up.
When I get the front cam pulley to TDC the crank marks look aligned and the rear cam pulley looks aligned, maybe off a fraction. But not a noticeable amount. If there is an issue would the cam marks continue to be further and further off? Each time I checked TDC they are all very close!
Thanks for the help.
2006 TL 3.2, I replaced my timing belt today and before I complete everything and put it all back together I have a quick question.
If the belt was installed correctly will all my marks(belt and cam pulley) line up after turning the crank a few times? I think I saw a video 2 times around on crank and the TDC should come back to front cam pulley. But the marks on my belt do not match.
I have 2 marks on the from cam and rear cam that aligned with the belt at the install. I am nervous thinking I missed by one tooth with slack near the water pump.
I have cranked the engine by hand a few times around but the marks on the belt and cam pulleys have never come back around to line up.
When I get the front cam pulley to TDC the crank marks look aligned and the rear cam pulley looks aligned, maybe off a fraction. But not a noticeable amount. If there is an issue would the cam marks continue to be further and further off? Each time I checked TDC they are all very close!
Thanks for the help.
#6
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
Keep in mind the belt marks are totally irrelevant; the only marks you care about are the timing marks on the hard components.
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rscone (03-18-2018)
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
thank you horseshoez, I think my marks are pretty darn close. so the marks I had on the belts not coming back to line up isn't relevant?
Each time I take the front cam to TDC, the crank mark is aligned and the rear mark is darn close.
Each time I take the front cam to TDC, the crank mark is aligned and the rear mark is darn close.
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#9
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Horseshoez, ok, thanks again.
I have rotated it completely a half dozen times and the TDC marks all show the same when I stop front cam at TDC. It's a pain with the plugs in. I am going to remove the plugs and give it another 5-6 compete rotations. If they continue to remain the same I am fairly sure I am good but was nervous when I noticed the slight slack near the water pump that disappeared once I released the tensioner.
I have rotated it completely a half dozen times and the TDC marks all show the same when I stop front cam at TDC. It's a pain with the plugs in. I am going to remove the plugs and give it another 5-6 compete rotations. If they continue to remain the same I am fairly sure I am good but was nervous when I noticed the slight slack near the water pump that disappeared once I released the tensioner.
#11
Latent car nut
iTrader: (2)
If the tooth count on your belt is correct, then numerous rotations of the engine will always return the timing marks to the same spot. In the last 24 hours there was a thread which mentioned the new timing belt was shorter than the old belt; in this case, if the new belt has a different number of teeth, then the timing marks will change for every rotation.
#12
Drifting
No the marks will not get worse if the timing is off. It will stay the same regardless of how many rotations. If the timing is revolving then there is no point in setting the timing.
Timing marks are only accurate with the tensioner released. Line up the crank pulley mark dead center only and the Cam's marks are either on or off. There is no between... and yes plugs out for best results. No need to fight the compression.
Timing marks are only accurate with the tensioner released. Line up the crank pulley mark dead center only and the Cam's marks are either on or off. There is no between... and yes plugs out for best results. No need to fight the compression.
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
all good, fired right up, no issues, no leaks. The rear cam mark is the one toughest to view and looked off but I think it was the angle of view. The job took most the day to put it all back together. The crank bolt removal required heat and 24" breaker bar. I also borrowed neighbors impact which may have helped some but in the end the breaker bar and heat got it off.The engine had 129k miles and all the parts looked original and no existing marks from any TB update. SO I was glad I get this done, TB looked worn and the tensioner snd idler pulley also.
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks turbo, after reading different blogs my concern was I was looking for all my marks to realign after turning the crank a few revolutions and once that didn't happen I thought maybe I did something wrong.
#16
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Personally, putting marks on the belt is a ridiculous idea. Post it on the 'net and others follow.
Hopefully this will help cease that procedure.
#17
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Rear often springs a tooth back. When you put tension on the timing belt, turn the rear cam back into alignment before slacking the belt over it and making it taut.
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
@turbo, so just have all marks aligned and place the belt on the drives, double/triple check they are all aligned once the tensioner is engaged. Easy!! lol
@majofo, yes I had that same issue and just made sure when I placed the belt on the rear sprocket the mark was right on. It was a hassle because the spring would move the sprocket quite a bit forward. I had the belt on the crank and front sprocket under the water pump and marks were perfect but the rear kept springing forward. Definitely a hassle but got it done.
@majofo, yes I had that same issue and just made sure when I placed the belt on the rear sprocket the mark was right on. It was a hassle because the spring would move the sprocket quite a bit forward. I had the belt on the crank and front sprocket under the water pump and marks were perfect but the rear kept springing forward. Definitely a hassle but got it done.
#19
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Sweet :high5:
#20
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Have used expensive cam sprocket holding tools, but maybe these would work and cause less aggravation:
https://www.etoolpros.com/automotive.../OTC-6678.html
https://www.etoolpros.com/automotive.../OTC-6678.html
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rscone (03-20-2018)
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