Steering wheel lights went out! Car is at the dealer :(
#1
Thread Starter
2011 BMW 335i
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Steering wheel lights went out! Car is at the dealer :(
The reason for this thread is so everyone can check their interior lights to make sure all the ones that are supposed to be lighting up are actually lighting up. If not, this is something that is covered under warranty if you guys are still within your warranty period.
My Volume/Channel buttons lights went out, the Mode button still lights up as well as the all three (cruise control) lights on the right side of the steering wheel. Also the top part of my Bluetooth/HFL lights went out.
Trunk button is also supposed to light up guys, mine hasnt gone out but I remember reading some people didn't know that it even lit up in the first place.
My Volume/Channel buttons lights went out, the Mode button still lights up as well as the all three (cruise control) lights on the right side of the steering wheel. Also the top part of my Bluetooth/HFL lights went out.
Trunk button is also supposed to light up guys, mine hasnt gone out but I remember reading some people didn't know that it even lit up in the first place.
#6
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#9
Thread Starter
2011 BMW 335i
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
No the part that says "L OFF R" does NOT light up, however the button that says "MIRROR" does light up. This is the button that controls the direction you want to move you mirrors in, you know, up, down, left, right.
#11
#12
Thread Starter
2011 BMW 335i
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
The reason for this thread is so everyone can check their interior lights to make sure all the ones that are supposed to be lighting up are actually lighting up. If not, this is something that is covered under warranty if you guys are still within your warranty period.
My Volume/Channel buttons lights went out, the Mode button still lights up as well as the all three (cruise control) lights on the right side of the steering wheel. Also the top part of my Bluetooth/HFL lights went out.
Trunk button is also supposed to light up guys, mine hasnt gone out but I remember reading some people didn't know that it even lit up in the first place.
My Volume/Channel buttons lights went out, the Mode button still lights up as well as the all three (cruise control) lights on the right side of the steering wheel. Also the top part of my Bluetooth/HFL lights went out.
Trunk button is also supposed to light up guys, mine hasnt gone out but I remember reading some people didn't know that it even lit up in the first place.
Anyone who is still under warranty check to make sure your interior lights are still lighting up!
Last edited by carlos9827; 07-07-2009 at 02:20 AM.
#14
I have a few out here and there - one heated switch, one climate control switch, one button on the navi. I wish there was a easy way to swap ALL of them for LEDs. I would get white ones to match the dash instead of the off green ones that are there now.
#18
Ive replaced ALL bulbs in the steering wheel about 2x already. Swapped wheels distrubs the bulbs and some stop working.
Replaced memory seat on drivers door 3x already
Replaced trunk light 1x
Replaced Select/Reset on cluster trim 2x
Replaced the Accord foglight switch both bulbs 1x.
Passenger side temp control 1x
Drivers seat warmer 1x.
Yup 2004 with 58k how am I doing
Replaced memory seat on drivers door 3x already
Replaced trunk light 1x
Replaced Select/Reset on cluster trim 2x
Replaced the Accord foglight switch both bulbs 1x.
Passenger side temp control 1x
Drivers seat warmer 1x.
Yup 2004 with 58k how am I doing
#19
#22
#23
I am in the middle of replacing my entire dash with blue LEDs. Here are the lights I have replaced so far:
Drivers door--Memory seat backlight and button indicators (3mm), Security LED (5mm), Window controls (4 PLCC-2 surface mount, 1 3mm), door lock (3mm).
Passenger doors front & back--window switches and door locks (all 3mm)
Drivers dash--Mirror control (3mm) <-this was a bitch!, trunk switch (3mm), VSA switch (3mm), interior light dimmer (3mm), MID control (3mm)
Steering Wheel--Radio controls (3mm), Cruise control (3mm), HFL (3mm) both upper and lower
Roof console--sunroof switch (3mm), Homelink buttons(3mm), interior dome light switch (3mm)
Center console--Passenger Airbag letters only (3mm)--I left the actual indicator amber.
Most of the LEDs were 3mm and I also used 470 ohm resistors on each one. I still have most of the center console left and will do it when I rip apart the dash for some other mods. I am pretty close to a full blue LED dash.
I hope this list is helpful.
I want to change the LCD at the top of the center console from gray to blue, but it looks like 12 surface mount LEDS in a fixture that I'm not sure how to get apart. Has anyone changed either this unit or the MID?
Drivers door--Memory seat backlight and button indicators (3mm), Security LED (5mm), Window controls (4 PLCC-2 surface mount, 1 3mm), door lock (3mm).
Passenger doors front & back--window switches and door locks (all 3mm)
Drivers dash--Mirror control (3mm) <-this was a bitch!, trunk switch (3mm), VSA switch (3mm), interior light dimmer (3mm), MID control (3mm)
Steering Wheel--Radio controls (3mm), Cruise control (3mm), HFL (3mm) both upper and lower
Roof console--sunroof switch (3mm), Homelink buttons(3mm), interior dome light switch (3mm)
Center console--Passenger Airbag letters only (3mm)--I left the actual indicator amber.
Most of the LEDs were 3mm and I also used 470 ohm resistors on each one. I still have most of the center console left and will do it when I rip apart the dash for some other mods. I am pretty close to a full blue LED dash.
I hope this list is helpful.
I want to change the LCD at the top of the center console from gray to blue, but it looks like 12 surface mount LEDS in a fixture that I'm not sure how to get apart. Has anyone changed either this unit or the MID?
Last edited by dwb993; 07-07-2009 at 02:51 PM.
#25
I have all kind of buttons that are not working and buttons that the bulbs are dead. My seat memo buttons does not work at all BUT the lights work. My side mirrors left/right lights works but the up/left does not work, however the down/right works, WTH? The button to reset miles bulb is dead the button to move right to left near the cluster bulbs is dead. I don’t have warranty. Also I didn't even know the trunk button lights up. DOES THE NAVI JOY STICK/NOB SUPPOSE TO LIGHT UP? I think it is suppose to light up, am I right? Because mine is out.
#27
I am in the middle of replacing my entire dash with blue LEDs. Here are the lights I have replaced so far:
Drivers door--Memory seat backlight and button indicators (3mm), Security LED (5mm), Window controls (4 PLCC-2 surface mount, 1 3mm), door lock (3mm).
Passenger doors front & back--window switches and door locks (all 3mm)
Drivers dash--Mirror control (3mm) <-this was a bitch!, trunk switch (3mm), VSA switch (3mm), interior light dimmer (3mm), MID control (3mm)
Steering Wheel--Radio controls (3mm), Cruise control (3mm), HFL (3mm) both upper and lower
Roof console--sunroof switch (3mm), Homelink buttons(3mm), interior dome light switch (3mm)
Center console--Passenger Airbag letters only (3mm)--I left the actual indicator amber.
Most of the LEDs were 3mm and I also used 470 ohm resistors on each one. I still have most of the center console left and will do it when I rip apart the dash for some other mods. I am pretty close to a full blue LED dash.
I hope this list is helpful.
I want to change the LCD at the top of the center console from gray to blue, but it looks like 12 surface mount LEDS in a fixture that I'm not sure how to get apart. Has anyone changed either this unit or the MID?
Drivers door--Memory seat backlight and button indicators (3mm), Security LED (5mm), Window controls (4 PLCC-2 surface mount, 1 3mm), door lock (3mm).
Passenger doors front & back--window switches and door locks (all 3mm)
Drivers dash--Mirror control (3mm) <-this was a bitch!, trunk switch (3mm), VSA switch (3mm), interior light dimmer (3mm), MID control (3mm)
Steering Wheel--Radio controls (3mm), Cruise control (3mm), HFL (3mm) both upper and lower
Roof console--sunroof switch (3mm), Homelink buttons(3mm), interior dome light switch (3mm)
Center console--Passenger Airbag letters only (3mm)--I left the actual indicator amber.
Most of the LEDs were 3mm and I also used 470 ohm resistors on each one. I still have most of the center console left and will do it when I rip apart the dash for some other mods. I am pretty close to a full blue LED dash.
I hope this list is helpful.
I want to change the LCD at the top of the center console from gray to blue, but it looks like 12 surface mount LEDS in a fixture that I'm not sure how to get apart. Has anyone changed either this unit or the MID?
The mods will have to confirm this but I think the joystick does not light up.
#29
Damn. I asked about this when I was under warranty. One of my seat heater buttons went out, but they told me it wasn't covered by the warranty. Now I'm way past my warranty. Bastids. Goodson Acura in Irving, btw. Ah well, I'm not too concerned with it... after about 120k miles, you stop giving a damn about trivial things like that and just are thankful she's been reliable otherwise.
#30
See ^^ I am definitely thinking they will tell me a lightbulb isn't covered under warranty as those are designed to burn out after a certain time....although I think it's not been long enough for it to burn out.
#31
I wanna say bulbs are not covered under warranty, as they do burn out over time but many dealerships have good willed them. I had two heat switch bulbs replaced in my old TSX, no charge.
#32
[QUOTE=RC51Ryder;11082517]Dude, you are the perfect person for a DIY write-up. Please tell me you took pictures.
I have been taking some pics, but not religiously. Now that you mention it, this is something that should be documented. I'll see what I can put together for a DIY, although a lot of the info has already been posted in various locations on this forum and others.
I have been taking some pics, but not religiously. Now that you mention it, this is something that should be documented. I'll see what I can put together for a DIY, although a lot of the info has already been posted in various locations on this forum and others.
#34
Thread Starter
2011 BMW 335i
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Damn. I asked about this when I was under warranty. One of my seat heater buttons went out, but they told me it wasn't covered by the warranty. Now I'm way past my warranty. Bastids. Goodson Acura in Irving, btw. Ah well, I'm not too concerned with it... after about 120k miles, you stop giving a damn about trivial things like that and just are thankful she's been reliable otherwise.
yea thats jacked, they should of covered it under warranty when you first addressed it....but yea....you right, I dont think I would care so much about something like the lighting at 120k. I just figured if something is covered under warranty, might as well fix no matter how little it may be....
#35
These bulbs going out are a VERY common problem. More so than with any other car I've owned....I wonder why??? And Acura HAS to have noticed this too. LED time!
I had 5 lights out. I waited till last week as my car crossed 49K and got em all done in one shot......dealer messed one of them up and didn't put the "blue condom" on one of them so it lit yellow. Half the guys there had no idea what I was talking about and said there is no such thing, as if I dreamt it up. They did their usual "you are a customer-you know nothing-we know everything" attitude. Once they realized their mistake I guess they figured I am a pain in the ass for small things.....but hey I can't drive around with 1 mismatched bulb, it was driving me nuts!
I had 5 lights out. I waited till last week as my car crossed 49K and got em all done in one shot......dealer messed one of them up and didn't put the "blue condom" on one of them so it lit yellow. Half the guys there had no idea what I was talking about and said there is no such thing, as if I dreamt it up. They did their usual "you are a customer-you know nothing-we know everything" attitude. Once they realized their mistake I guess they figured I am a pain in the ass for small things.....but hey I can't drive around with 1 mismatched bulb, it was driving me nuts!
#36
Thread Starter
2011 BMW 335i
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
These bulbs going out are a VERY common problem. More so than with any other car I've owned....I wonder why??? And Acura HAS to have noticed this too. LED time!
I had 5 lights out. I waited till last week as my car crossed 49K and got em all done in one shot......dealer messed one of them up and didn't put the "blue condom" on one of them so it lit yellow. Half the guys there had no idea what I was talking about and said there is no such thing, as if I dreamt it up. They did their usual "you are a customer-you know nothing-we know everything" attitude. Once they realized their mistake I guess they figured I am a pain in the ass for small things.....but hey I can't drive around with 1 mismatched bulb, it was driving me nuts!
I had 5 lights out. I waited till last week as my car crossed 49K and got em all done in one shot......dealer messed one of them up and didn't put the "blue condom" on one of them so it lit yellow. Half the guys there had no idea what I was talking about and said there is no such thing, as if I dreamt it up. They did their usual "you are a customer-you know nothing-we know everything" attitude. Once they realized their mistake I guess they figured I am a pain in the ass for small things.....but hey I can't drive around with 1 mismatched bulb, it was driving me nuts!
haha
#37
I am in the middle of replacing my entire dash with blue LEDs. Here are the lights I have replaced so far:
Drivers door--Memory seat backlight and button indicators (3mm), Security LED (5mm), Window controls (4 PLCC-2 surface mount, 1 3mm), door lock (3mm).
Passenger doors front & back--window switches and door locks (all 3mm)
Drivers dash--Mirror control (3mm) <-this was a bitch!, trunk switch (3mm), VSA switch (3mm), interior light dimmer (3mm), MID control (3mm)
Steering Wheel--Radio controls (3mm), Cruise control (3mm), HFL (3mm) both upper and lower
Roof console--sunroof switch (3mm), Homelink buttons(3mm), interior dome light switch (3mm)
Center console--Passenger Airbag letters only (3mm)--I left the actual indicator amber.
Most of the LEDs were 3mm and I also used 470 ohm resistors on each one. I still have most of the center console left and will do it when I rip apart the dash for some other mods. I am pretty close to a full blue LED dash.
I hope this list is helpful.
I want to change the LCD at the top of the center console from gray to blue, but it looks like 12 surface mount LEDS in a fixture that I'm not sure how to get apart. Has anyone changed either this unit or the MID?
Drivers door--Memory seat backlight and button indicators (3mm), Security LED (5mm), Window controls (4 PLCC-2 surface mount, 1 3mm), door lock (3mm).
Passenger doors front & back--window switches and door locks (all 3mm)
Drivers dash--Mirror control (3mm) <-this was a bitch!, trunk switch (3mm), VSA switch (3mm), interior light dimmer (3mm), MID control (3mm)
Steering Wheel--Radio controls (3mm), Cruise control (3mm), HFL (3mm) both upper and lower
Roof console--sunroof switch (3mm), Homelink buttons(3mm), interior dome light switch (3mm)
Center console--Passenger Airbag letters only (3mm)--I left the actual indicator amber.
Most of the LEDs were 3mm and I also used 470 ohm resistors on each one. I still have most of the center console left and will do it when I rip apart the dash for some other mods. I am pretty close to a full blue LED dash.
I hope this list is helpful.
I want to change the LCD at the top of the center console from gray to blue, but it looks like 12 surface mount LEDS in a fixture that I'm not sure how to get apart. Has anyone changed either this unit or the MID?
could I just install LED's? do I need resistors? could I order them from v-leds.com?
#38
LED replacement teaser
^^ You do need resistors.
They are 3mm bulbs which you can purchase from Oznium.com. Be sure to get the resistors as you will need them.
Here is a link with instructions on how to solder the resistors onto the LEDs and get them into the mini-bulb holder.
http://www.n4te.com/images/acura/leds/guide/
I modified my designs a bit by making the positive lead a good bit longer and wrapping with electrical tape. This made it easier to lay the whole assembly down behind the switch when I re-attached it. These wheel switches have very little clearance behind them, so you need to keep everything flat for them to go back in correctly and look good.
To get the airbag off the steering wheel--disconnect both terminals from the battery and wait 5 mins for the SLS to discharge. Remove the cover plate from the bottom of the airbag to expose the horn and airbag connectors. Pull the larger connector out (airbag) and disconnect it---it has a safety type disconnect which you have to pull the shield back, then pull the plug out. It took me a while to figure it out, but I'm smart like that!
There are two #10 Torx screws on either side of the wheel you must remove to get the airbag off. Disconnect the horn switch and GENTLY set down the airbag in a safe location. Seriously, I have heard of these things going off and flying 30 feet into the air. Do not jostle it and place it outside of the car while you are working and you will be fine.
Your HFL controls are easy to get to---2 phillips head screws at about the 7 o'clock position on the wheel. The radio and cruise switches each have 2 small phillips head screws coming in from the back of the wheel (the side closest to the front of the car). Unplug and remove all 3.
Each switch has 2 mini-bulbs. The link above has detailed pics and I will try to post some more later (I'm at work now and do not have them handy), but you take a small flathead screwdriver and turn the bulbs to disengage them. Pull them out and proceed with removing the incandescents and installing the LEDs. When replacing the mini-bulb assemblies, I had a lot of trouble figuring out which lead was which and wound up using the trial and error method to figure out + and -. If you recognize an easy way to tell, please share.
Anyway, once you have everything back together connect the units back to the plugs on the wheel. You do not need to reconnect the airbag at this time. Re-connect the battery and turn on the lights to make sure they all work. LEDs are polarized so if any do not light try removing them, turning them 180 degrees and re-inserting. Once you have everything working, disconnect the battery and wait 5-10 minutes to both discharge the SLS and clear the engine computer of the missing airbag code and put everything back in place.
I do have hotspots that I have yet to troubleshoot. This seems to be a common problem on these LED swaps. On my car, the top buttons (MODE and CRUISE ON/OFF) are hotter than the bottom buttons. Also, the HFL buttons are hotter than the phone control buttons. I am very much a work-in-progress with this project, but I am taking notes and preparing a DIY for the entire dash for future release. Stay tuned.
They are 3mm bulbs which you can purchase from Oznium.com. Be sure to get the resistors as you will need them.
Here is a link with instructions on how to solder the resistors onto the LEDs and get them into the mini-bulb holder.
http://www.n4te.com/images/acura/leds/guide/
I modified my designs a bit by making the positive lead a good bit longer and wrapping with electrical tape. This made it easier to lay the whole assembly down behind the switch when I re-attached it. These wheel switches have very little clearance behind them, so you need to keep everything flat for them to go back in correctly and look good.
To get the airbag off the steering wheel--disconnect both terminals from the battery and wait 5 mins for the SLS to discharge. Remove the cover plate from the bottom of the airbag to expose the horn and airbag connectors. Pull the larger connector out (airbag) and disconnect it---it has a safety type disconnect which you have to pull the shield back, then pull the plug out. It took me a while to figure it out, but I'm smart like that!
There are two #10 Torx screws on either side of the wheel you must remove to get the airbag off. Disconnect the horn switch and GENTLY set down the airbag in a safe location. Seriously, I have heard of these things going off and flying 30 feet into the air. Do not jostle it and place it outside of the car while you are working and you will be fine.
Your HFL controls are easy to get to---2 phillips head screws at about the 7 o'clock position on the wheel. The radio and cruise switches each have 2 small phillips head screws coming in from the back of the wheel (the side closest to the front of the car). Unplug and remove all 3.
Each switch has 2 mini-bulbs. The link above has detailed pics and I will try to post some more later (I'm at work now and do not have them handy), but you take a small flathead screwdriver and turn the bulbs to disengage them. Pull them out and proceed with removing the incandescents and installing the LEDs. When replacing the mini-bulb assemblies, I had a lot of trouble figuring out which lead was which and wound up using the trial and error method to figure out + and -. If you recognize an easy way to tell, please share.
Anyway, once you have everything back together connect the units back to the plugs on the wheel. You do not need to reconnect the airbag at this time. Re-connect the battery and turn on the lights to make sure they all work. LEDs are polarized so if any do not light try removing them, turning them 180 degrees and re-inserting. Once you have everything working, disconnect the battery and wait 5-10 minutes to both discharge the SLS and clear the engine computer of the missing airbag code and put everything back in place.
I do have hotspots that I have yet to troubleshoot. This seems to be a common problem on these LED swaps. On my car, the top buttons (MODE and CRUISE ON/OFF) are hotter than the bottom buttons. Also, the HFL buttons are hotter than the phone control buttons. I am very much a work-in-progress with this project, but I am taking notes and preparing a DIY for the entire dash for future release. Stay tuned.
#39
what about this thing http://superbrightbulbs.com/images/a..._b_ss_b_wm.jpg