Replacing the Brakes (with pictures) 3G Garage #D-041
03-31-2010, 03:50 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Replacing the Brakes (with pictures) 3G Garage #D-041
First of all, I want to thank Ron A for posting the scans from the Helms manual in this thread. That pretty much got me through what needed to be done.
Second, I don't believe there is a thread around that has actual pictures of someone doing the replacement so I snapped a few pictures when I changed my brakes last week in hopes this might help some of your DIY'ers with the project. It ended up being a pretty easy job once I figured out where everything was.
Tools Used (I will have to verify these later, right now I'm going from memory):
Front:
There are 3 bolts for the front that need to be removed. The first (and hardest) to remove is the 17mm bolt (A) at the bottom. I tried for about 15 minutes to break it loose before I soaked it with PB Buster. Let it sit for about 5 minutes then I put the socket on and was finally able to break it after hitting it with a rubber mallet.
You may have to hold "nut" (B) with a opened ended wrench. I didn't have to on the front calipers, but ended up having to on the rear ones.
Then remove the Brake hose mounting bolts (C).
Now you should be able to open the caliper up and remove the old brake pads. Be sure to also remove the "pad retainers" (D).
I still had a little bit of life left in the old ones, but they were starting to squeak, plus I already had the damn thing taken apart so....
I cleaned the pad retainers with an old tooth brush, dish soap and water. I meant to get a picture of them before and after, but only got em after.
The Helms scans recommended you put grease between all the shims and pretty much everywhere except on the rotor and "pad" side of the break pad. So that means in between all the shims and there should be 2 shims for each brake pad (I reused the "inner shims" and used the "outter shims" that came with my brake pads). I also put some on the outside of the break pad where the pad sits in the pad retainers (pointed out below) in addition to the grease on the shim.
Pic with the new pads installed (from outside of wheel well):
New pads installed (from inside of wheel well)
At this point you will need to push the caliper piston back in (sorry I didn't get a picture). There is good and bad news here. Good news is, as you push it in, it doesn't push back out. Bad news is, its a pain in the ass to push in. I think a C-clamp would have been nice here, but I just pushed it in with the end of a wrench. Once its pushed in flush to the caliper, you should be able to bring the caliper back down around the new pads and screw your bolts back in.
Here's the finished front:
Back:
On the back brake caliper, its recommended to remove the brake line mount bolts first. Well, I didn't do this because I originally couldn't find where they were mounted and assumed it was where the brake line meeting the caliper (G). After I loosened it and brake fluid started leaking, I realized that was wrong and quickly tightened it back up
. I then unscrewed the caliper bolts (E) while holding the nuts (F) with an open ended wrench or, in my case, a crescent wrench.
Here's another more direct angle:
Once you have the bolts off, just wiggle the caliper back and forth until it comes off. Once you have it off, remove the rear "shims" and clean then up:
Grease up the pad shims like you did on the front pads. Note: I put a slightly thinner coat of grease on the rear shims. I figured they have less strain on them. But I'm not a grease expert, so I don't know if that matters.
Then you just put everything back together.
Like I said before, I didn't see a thread with actual pictures (which I prefer to scans from manuals) so I wanted to get one together. I probably left some stuff out somewhere, so I try and check back on this thread to answer any questions people might have.
Good Luck!
Second, I don't believe there is a thread around that has actual pictures of someone doing the replacement so I snapped a few pictures when I changed my brakes last week in hopes this might help some of your DIY'ers with the project. It ended up being a pretty easy job once I figured out where everything was.
Tools Used (I will have to verify these later, right now I'm going from memory):
- 17mm, 14mm and 12mm Sockets
- Rubber Mallet
- Cresent wrench (I believe a 6mm open ended wrench will work here, but I'm lazy )
- Small flat head screw driver
- PB Blaster
- Master Pro EP Moly Grease (can't find a link for it but it was $2.99 at O'Reilly Auto Parts for a 1lb tub which is enough to do about 43267986 brake jobs. If you can't find it I understand as long as it is some sort of "Moly" grease, it should work fine.)
Front:
There are 3 bolts for the front that need to be removed. The first (and hardest) to remove is the 17mm bolt (A) at the bottom. I tried for about 15 minutes to break it loose before I soaked it with PB Buster. Let it sit for about 5 minutes then I put the socket on and was finally able to break it after hitting it with a rubber mallet.
You may have to hold "nut" (B) with a opened ended wrench. I didn't have to on the front calipers, but ended up having to on the rear ones.
Then remove the Brake hose mounting bolts (C).
Now you should be able to open the caliper up and remove the old brake pads. Be sure to also remove the "pad retainers" (D).
I still had a little bit of life left in the old ones, but they were starting to squeak, plus I already had the damn thing taken apart so....
I cleaned the pad retainers with an old tooth brush, dish soap and water. I meant to get a picture of them before and after, but only got em after.
The Helms scans recommended you put grease between all the shims and pretty much everywhere except on the rotor and "pad" side of the break pad. So that means in between all the shims and there should be 2 shims for each brake pad (I reused the "inner shims" and used the "outter shims" that came with my brake pads). I also put some on the outside of the break pad where the pad sits in the pad retainers (pointed out below) in addition to the grease on the shim.
Pic with the new pads installed (from outside of wheel well):
New pads installed (from inside of wheel well)
At this point you will need to push the caliper piston back in (sorry I didn't get a picture). There is good and bad news here. Good news is, as you push it in, it doesn't push back out. Bad news is, its a pain in the ass to push in. I think a C-clamp would have been nice here, but I just pushed it in with the end of a wrench. Once its pushed in flush to the caliper, you should be able to bring the caliper back down around the new pads and screw your bolts back in.
Here's the finished front:
Back:
On the back brake caliper, its recommended to remove the brake line mount bolts first. Well, I didn't do this because I originally couldn't find where they were mounted and assumed it was where the brake line meeting the caliper (G). After I loosened it and brake fluid started leaking, I realized that was wrong and quickly tightened it back up
. I then unscrewed the caliper bolts (E) while holding the nuts (F) with an open ended wrench or, in my case, a crescent wrench.Here's another more direct angle:
Once you have the bolts off, just wiggle the caliper back and forth until it comes off. Once you have it off, remove the rear "shims" and clean then up:
Grease up the pad shims like you did on the front pads. Note: I put a slightly thinner coat of grease on the rear shims. I figured they have less strain on them. But I'm not a grease expert, so I don't know if that matters.
Then you just put everything back together.
Like I said before, I didn't see a thread with actual pictures (which I prefer to scans from manuals) so I wanted to get one together. I probably left some stuff out somewhere, so I try and check back on this thread to answer any questions people might have.
Good Luck!
The following 5 users liked this post by Bonksnp:
bxboy1025 (03-06-2015),
jhumbo (08-20-2011),
LAcuraBaby (01-19-2013),
triax37 (02-20-2013),
webmastir (03-23-2012)
03-31-2010, 04:38 PM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks. I bought my TL with ~58k miles on it and I'm now just hitting 94k. So at least 36k or so. I'm pretty sure the brake pads were new when I bought the car and they had the Honda logo on them so I'm pretty sure they were OEM.
03-31-2010, 04:52 PM
#5
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
nice write up !!! will be using it to replace the stuff on a CIVIC 
Trending Topics
04-01-2010, 07:51 AM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
No, not at all actually. But deandorsey did a write up with pics for the brembo's here (which looks MUCH easier then the standard models): https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/3g-garage-d-094-brembo-hawk-pad-replacement-w-pics-579140/
I've only had em on for a few days so I can't really say yet. But they seem to work fine. Nothing amazing, although I haven't really "locked it up" yet. But I've heard ceramic brakes are the way to go these days. In fact I don't even think I had the choice to buy anything else. Plus these came with a lifetime warranty, so I figured its a win win
Last edited by Bonksnp; 04-01-2010 at 07:53 AM.
04-01-2010, 10:15 AM
#14
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,771 Likes
on
4,342 Posts
Well done Bonksnp!!
I'll add that cleaning the shims, calipers, etc with some Brake Parts Cleaner (in a spray can from Autozone or similar) is quick and easy. I used toothbrush, same as you, on the shims and retainers.
Cleaning the calipers, I used the Brake Parts cleaner and a wire brush - CAREFULL not to damage the boots and lines - caliper housing only with the wire brush.
- what a mess that makes; all that dirt and grime. But it looks better.
I'll add that cleaning the shims, calipers, etc with some Brake Parts Cleaner (in a spray can from Autozone or similar) is quick and easy. I used toothbrush, same as you, on the shims and retainers.
Cleaning the calipers, I used the Brake Parts cleaner and a wire brush - CAREFULL not to damage the boots and lines - caliper housing only with the wire brush.
- what a mess that makes; all that dirt and grime. But it looks better.
04-01-2010, 11:36 AM
#18
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,771 Likes
on
4,342 Posts
Rears are the same. Fronts are easier.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
D-094: DIY:Brembo Brake Pad Replacement + Rear Brake Pad Replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=579140
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/diy-2007-tl-s-brake-pad-replacement-629428/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-094-diy-how-replace-brake-pads-acura-tl-s-733637/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-094-diy-complete-brake-job-pics-624404/ - Rear Pads as well
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-tl-garage-faq-3g-tl-newbies-553554/
D-094: DIY:Brembo Brake Pad Replacement + Rear Brake Pad Replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=579140
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/diy-2007-tl-s-brake-pad-replacement-629428/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-094-diy-how-replace-brake-pads-acura-tl-s-733637/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-094-diy-complete-brake-job-pics-624404/ - Rear Pads as well
04-02-2010, 10:56 AM
#21
Intermediate
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Atlanta, GA
Age: 38
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm thinking that you bled the brakes afterward since you untightened one of the rear brake lines. Would you still have to bleed the brakes even if you DIDN'T untighten any of the lines going to the calipers?
04-02-2010, 05:47 PM
#22
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
hey dude any easy way of getting the rear caliper piston back 
....the fronts were easy the rears are killing me....lemme know....am working on the car as i write for help
....the fronts were easy the rears are killing me....lemme know....am working on the car as i write for help
04-03-2010, 12:44 AM
#24
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
autozone has a caliper rental tool....$55 but you get it all back when you return it....i highly recommend it !!!
04-03-2010, 09:21 AM
#26
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,771 Likes
on
4,342 Posts
Glad you get it figured out.
Others have used a peice of scrap wood and a c-clamp.
Whatever you do, don't damage the pistons or piston "rings" or boots. I'd shy away from ever pushing on the piston directly; indirect pressure with a tool, block of wood or even the old pad is best.
04-03-2010, 12:56 PM
#27
I didnt see any caliper grease on the 'shims' where the tabs on the end of pads sit- the pad moves in and out along that metal piece- apply caliper grease to inner edge of shim and pad tabs
Also grease the pad backs- in a circle where the caliper piston will contact the inner pad, and in 'fingers' on the outer pad where caliper stabilty fingers contact pad back
Everything moves and should do so easily
I suggest flushing the brake fluid BEFORE you do the brake job, prevents backwashing crud when you compress the piston.
Change brake fluid if you are changing pads- and do it every year for best brake fluid all the time
5 dollar tool to compress piston in a modified c-clamp idea with old pad against piston- well worth having in the tool box,
along with 8 and 10mm small box wrenches for caliper nipples on many cars
Also grease the pad backs- in a circle where the caliper piston will contact the inner pad, and in 'fingers' on the outer pad where caliper stabilty fingers contact pad back
Everything moves and should do so easily
I suggest flushing the brake fluid BEFORE you do the brake job, prevents backwashing crud when you compress the piston.
Change brake fluid if you are changing pads- and do it every year for best brake fluid all the time
5 dollar tool to compress piston in a modified c-clamp idea with old pad against piston- well worth having in the tool box,
along with 8 and 10mm small box wrenches for caliper nipples on many cars
08-02-2010, 12:05 PM
#29
Instructor
Good info here bro ....I wish my garage wasnt a storage room . My girl put lots of junk in there We all want to save as much money as possible . So i Might as well move it
We all want to save as much money as possible . So i Might as well move it
08-03-2010, 01:12 PM
#30
Advanced
Anyways, at least for my RSX, rear pistons must be turned to be pushed back. I believe the piston surface has cross shaped wedges so that you can put something in to turn it. (I used scissors) Front pistons can just be pushed in using C-clamp.
08-03-2010, 02:07 PM
#31
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
^^^ thanks for the info dude....so i know now not to buy a RSX-S 
08-03-2010, 02:35 PM
#33
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
Received 4,732 Likes
on
4,064 Posts
here u go....i dont know if it has brembos....but i know it does have MT....service scans by Ronny Boi LOL....aka Ron A
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578017
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578017
09-16-2010, 04:22 PM
#34
Make it so
+1 for this thread. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this write-up, I don't know crap about working on cars but I gained mad confidence reading this and I decided to not pay some chump to install these and try to do it myself.
Granted, it took longer than expected on the first wheel, but after that it was cake. Learning curve for sure.
If anyone else is wondering if it's really possible/doable/easy to do, take heart. I did it and it was no problem.
The only thing I would append to this would be to include the Caliper Reset Tool in the list of tools to have on-hand. I figure that using the C-clamp could be a bit shady, but the reset tool was awesome especially because it's essentially free to rent from AutoZone.
Thank you again, I appreciate it tremendously. If I ever meet you I will bake you a TL-shaped cake.
Granted, it took longer than expected on the first wheel, but after that it was cake. Learning curve for sure.
If anyone else is wondering if it's really possible/doable/easy to do, take heart. I did it and it was no problem.
The only thing I would append to this would be to include the Caliper Reset Tool in the list of tools to have on-hand. I figure that using the C-clamp could be a bit shady, but the reset tool was awesome especially because it's essentially free to rent from AutoZone.
Thank you again, I appreciate it tremendously. If I ever meet you I will bake you a TL-shaped cake.
09-28-2010, 10:00 AM
#36
Intermediate
Thread Starter
+1 for this thread. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this write-up, I don't know crap about working on cars but I gained mad confidence reading this and I decided to not pay some chump to install these and try to do it myself.
Granted, it took longer than expected on the first wheel, but after that it was cake. Learning curve for sure.
If anyone else is wondering if it's really possible/doable/easy to do, take heart. I did it and it was no problem.
The only thing I would append to this would be to include the Caliper Reset Tool in the list of tools to have on-hand. I figure that using the C-clamp could be a bit shady, but the reset tool was awesome especially because it's essentially free to rent from AutoZone.
Thank you again, I appreciate it tremendously. If I ever meet you I will bake you a TL-shaped cake.
Granted, it took longer than expected on the first wheel, but after that it was cake. Learning curve for sure.
If anyone else is wondering if it's really possible/doable/easy to do, take heart. I did it and it was no problem.
The only thing I would append to this would be to include the Caliper Reset Tool in the list of tools to have on-hand. I figure that using the C-clamp could be a bit shady, but the reset tool was awesome especially because it's essentially free to rent from AutoZone.
Thank you again, I appreciate it tremendously. If I ever meet you I will bake you a TL-shaped cake.
)And yes, I agree the caliper reset clamp would be a good idea. I didn't know it was free to get from Auto-Zone so I just struggled and pushed my calipers in. But if its available, it will make life MUCH easier.
09-28-2010, 06:21 PM
#37
Make it so
No problem. I love DIY articles and have used quite a few from this site so I wanted to take the time and give one back. Especially from a novice level (I love write ups that look like they are made by Fisher-Price )
And yes, I agree the caliper reset clamp would be a good idea. I didn't know it was free to get from Auto-Zone so I just struggled and pushed my calipers in. But if its available, it will make life MUCH easier.
)And yes, I agree the caliper reset clamp would be a good idea. I didn't know it was free to get from Auto-Zone so I just struggled and pushed my calipers in. But if its available, it will make life MUCH easier.
The way the caliper reset tool from AutoZone works is that you fork out the $50 to buy it from them, and if you bring it back they just buy it back from you. So technically it's not "Free", but the way the transaction works the transaction gets cancelled out in your checking account register.
09-28-2010, 06:25 PM
#38
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
This guide would have came in handy.
Just spent $730 on ONE rear right caliper.
$300 for parts, the rest labour and taxes.
Just spent $730 on ONE rear right caliper.
$300 for parts, the rest labour and taxes.
10-06-2010, 09:27 AM
#40
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,771 Likes
on
4,342 Posts
I see pics. I'll see if I can re-host them or something. (edit: reposted the OP with re-hosted photos in the next post).
Also, the site doesn't remove pics from old threads. If an OP deletes or moves the pics on his host account, they will be lost.
Here are some ohter DIY's on Brakes:
D-041: Brakes-front/rear caliper overhaul, front/rear pad replacement, brake bleeding, brake disc specifications, parking brake adjustment
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578017
DIY: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770166
D-094: DIY:Brembo Brake Pad Replacement + Rear Brake Pad Replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=579140
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=629428
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=733637
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=624404 - Rear Pads as well
Last edited by Bearcat94; 10-06-2010 at 09:42 AM.