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This Acura I bought at auction 2/10 and solving problems. One is draining of battery.
1) When I bought the car battery was only 2V. Maybe even frozen and defrost a few times because it is MN
2) Once I spotted in night interior light on even I didn't leave it on at that button that had O and I.
3) It happened already 3 times in one month that car is at my parking that battery get too low to start. Below 12V. Lights can work but the car cannot start.
4) Did parasitic draw test with multimeter and it show 23mA that is healthy but problem can be on off.
5) Pulled out battery again and recharge but didn't put in car back again than in storage space to see if will drain there in a few days. I checked that battery in a couple car parts stores and they all said the battery is good. Will put tomorrow battery from my TL 03 that is similar in shape bat has reverse polarity at battery posts. That battery is good.
6) Hood is a little open and a lot of snow and rain is falling these days. Can it be a problem?
Any opinion?
This morning, one day after, 08 TL battery showed 12,55V where yesterday was 12,61V. I think it is good so I returned 08 battery back to TL but didn't connect negative. Just checked amperage and it is 25mA. Interesting that amperage measurement shows for first a few seconds like 1,3A then go down to 0,025A. Like in this video at 2:40
Will leave battery in car with negative unconnected and check for a few days with voltmeter. Then I will check the amperage too after checking voltage. Will be snow again today and will see if that do anything.
After you close the door and all the lights go off it takes awhile, maybe a minute, for all the systems to "go to sleep", which is why the DMM shows 1.6amps for a bit, then drops to around 0.7-0.8amps for a bit, then it SHOULD drop to around 0.035amps where it should stay.
^^^ Make sense. I need to open the door to open the hood. I closed door but did right away testing of amperage. Good call. My amperage goes to 0.025A. But still possible some on off situation. It would not be the first time for me to see on off with electrical problems.
About battery that was only 2V and possible sulfation problem this is from internet
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Permanent sulfation sets in when the battery has been in a low state-of-charge for weeks or months. At this stage, no form of restoration seems possible; however, the recovery yield is not fully understood. To everyone’s amazement, new lead acid batteries can often be fully restored after dwelling in a low-voltage condition for many weeks. Other factors may play a role.
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So, if the battery is down in voltage big time can be or not permed. The only way is to check the battery for a few days or weeks with a voltmeter. One thing with my battery is that it can be charged to 12.6V. Can it hold voltage not sure for now.
After you close the door and all the lights go off it takes awhile, maybe a minute, for all the systems to "go to sleep", which is why the DMM shows 1.6amps for a bit, then drops to around 0.7-0.8amps for a bit, then it SHOULD drop to around 0.035amps where it should stay.
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The name of the game here is to put this meter in series with one of cables without waking up the car. We don’t want to disconnect the battery because then when you reconnect it there will be a surge of current. 23:25 .
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Could be the HFL (Hands Free Link) located above front interior lights. They go bad and drain the battery. Simply open & disconnect.
Checked battery voltage today. Battery is at car since Wednesday only didn't connect negative. Today it was 12.52V so the battery is ok. First will do what this guy recommended.
Adjusted hood latch to and lowered hood in closed position. While is not perfect it is good enough for sure.
Connected battery back at Monday and today morning, Wednesday, it was 12,3V. How much I did read amperage it is 30mA that should be inside normal. Will disconnect that HFL thing today, if is not disconnected already and will see from there. Can be on off drainage.
Checked HFL and it is disconnected already. At last took me only around 10min to check it. Will have to buy amp clamp with memory to help me figure out what is going on. Is not a priority, car need to pass safety checks so can put license plates and drive it. 6 years go put at Craig list need safety check at my, than, Acura TL 03 and 5-6 guys call me to do it for 25-30$, come to parking and check. Now a few that call want 200-300$ to come to parking lot and check it. LOL. Amigo services would do it for 72$ but need to bring car to them. If I would know how certified mechanic number look would do it alone and sign paper.
I saw only 30mA at multimeter still always. Must be some on off. If would drive it every second day would be ok for now.
Did try voltage drop at fuses and that thing is slow. Probably will check internet what would be another suspicious thing and check it, rather than go across all fuses.
Edit voltage drop do not work any way till can prove that current exist.
Recently had a leak in my car as well.
about 600mA. disconnected the HFL and the reading was about 400mA. I struggled to find that other 400mA, it turns out the amps always surged initially for about 5 secs, then dropped down to like 10-30mA (which is normal).
I only read it for 3 secs and thought the 400mA reading was a problem; I just didn’t wait long enough.
battery life was low enough that the battery drain made the car die overnight in the cold.
"""Typical hand-held Hall effect units can read currents as low as 200 mA, and units that can read down to 1 mA are available.""" Well would not be cheap, it is for sure. Will see. Will do a few random disconnecting that are recommended here before jump for current clamp.
Well looks like I have finally come to the 21st century as cars is in question. Never before have I had parasitic draw in a car. Yeah, it is what I need.
Well checked amp clamp from Harbor Freight """CM610A 600A T-RMS AC/DC Clamp Meter""" and specs said can read from 60A to 600A. So useless for what I need.
There is some at Amazon like it can read down to 1mA. Only 50$. Maybe I will buy it. Name is """Bside ACM91"""
Read this "If yours electrical drain cycles every 32 seconds...". Went down, connected multimeter with clamps to negative battery post and cable and look at multimeter for 10min. Do not have any cycles. It was 28 to 32 mA all time.
"South main auto" has a nice video about parasitic drawing. He says confirm current draw with amp clamp, or inline multimeter. Then find circuit with voltage drop at fuse. Then go to "identifix", in my case to google, to point out what is problem. In my case it is on and off. So, I cannot find the drain but I know it is there. Can google "on off draw" or so.
Well on 3/24 a guy showed up and signed papers and I got my license plate and started driving around as much I do with a small car. How much I did check battery it is around 12.3-12.4V. Not great not terrible. My guess is because battery was down to 2V when I bought car it is not strong like a new. I guess there is not parasitic drive at all, not even on/off one. This testing didn't take much of my anergy as it is basically just playing with multimeter and I like do it.
