A-122: DIY - 105k Service: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Spark Plugs, Thermostat *PICS*
#1681
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Steven is a little obsessed over his rides..
They're pretty sweet.
#1683
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
I get on his case about double parking.. he pays no attention, because Steven Bell Stingray owner.
#1684
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Dude...I have never double parked with as much as I love my babies...I park far as fuk...or I park on a corner spot, back in as close to curb as possible...on rare occasions where I have to just take my chances, I do but I light a candle to La Virgen to ensure the car stays ding free.
Double parking is the best way to ensure you don't get dinged, but you are highly likely to get keyed!
Double parking is the best way to ensure you don't get dinged, but you are highly likely to get keyed!
#1685
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
i'm going to replace the thermostat also as preventative maintenance.
do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat with the OEM assembly (Nippon - part 19301-P8E-A10) or should I get the motorad fail safe one
does that OEM assembly come with the gasket already? i think it does (Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura)
do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat with the OEM assembly (Nippon - part 19301-P8E-A10) or should I get the motorad fail safe one
Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive"]Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive
with gasket
does that OEM assembly come with the gasket already? i think it does (Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura)
Last edited by sockr1; 10-02-2015 at 01:28 PM.
#1687
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
That dude who cranks them out in 1 hr flat and charges only $20 would surely win.. I mean.. he's done literally thousands of timing belt jobs.
#1689
#1691
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
Dirty Jerz.. once word got out that he was cranking them out for only $20, there was a line around the corner from what I hear.
Last edited by Majofo; 10-02-2015 at 01:49 PM.
#1692
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
#1694
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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So, does he do the belt swap by hand?
I mean, is it a hand job?
Because 1hr/$20 sounds pretty good for that sort of service.
I mean, is it a hand job?
Because 1hr/$20 sounds pretty good for that sort of service.
#1695
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
I heard he also hurt his shoulder.. reaching around
#1696
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
#1697
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
BTW I was incorrect above. Acura quotes the spark plug job at 1.5 labor hours ($185) and the WP/TB/Tensioner @ 6.9/7 ($900).
#1698
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
combo breaker..
#1700
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
computer whoopin' yo ass J..
#1703
Burning Brakes
i'm going to replace the thermostat also as preventative maintenance.
do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat with the OEM assembly (Nippon - part 19301-P8E-A10) or should I get the motorad fail safe one Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive"]Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive
with gasket Amazon.com: Fel-Pro 35162 O-Ring: Automotive
does that OEM assembly come with the gasket already? i think it does (Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura)
do you guys recommend replacing the thermostat with the OEM assembly (Nippon - part 19301-P8E-A10) or should I get the motorad fail safe one Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive"]Amazon.com: Motorad 7302-170 Failsafe Thermostat: Automotive
with gasket Amazon.com: Fel-Pro 35162 O-Ring: Automotive
does that OEM assembly come with the gasket already? i think it does (Acura Parts @ AcuraOEMparts.com - Genuine Acura OEM Parts from Delray Acura)
Last edited by t-rd; 10-03-2015 at 02:46 PM.
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sockr1 (10-03-2015)
#1704
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
I heard Justn tried this on the TL, got his socket stuck.
#1705
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
anyone reading this done this on a 2008 TL with a packaged TB kit? the reason i ask is because 2008 has a different serpentine/acc belt listed than the one for 04-07. The 2008 is listed as 38920-RCA-A01, while the 04-07 is listed as 38920-RCA-A03, which is the belt in all the TB kits I've found online so far, and they have different OEM manufacturers listed (08 Bando, 04-07 Mitsuboshi).
At this point I was going to order one of those kits, and then just buy the serp/acc belt separate from the dealer (for an online price) and then sell/give away the belt in the kit.
At this point I was going to order one of those kits, and then just buy the serp/acc belt separate from the dealer (for an online price) and then sell/give away the belt in the kit.
#1706
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
They switched mfgs.. don't even sweat it, use the belt that comes with it. It's the same spec. Usually the first letters in the PN refers to the spec and the last letters refer to version or mfg. In this case, mfg.
The following users liked this post:
sockr1 (10-04-2015)
#1709
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thread Starter
#1712
Needs a 930
I ended up replacing my water pump since there was no sign of coolant in my oil. All my lines were fine so now thinking of replacing all coils and plugs and go from there Car sounds like complete boo boo and it's been down for over 2 weeks
Went to go test out a TLX advance with 8k on it but half way there I get a call saying guy went to go have it cleaned up for me and it was already being cleaned due to just being sold, Womp Womp.
Went to go test out a TLX advance with 8k on it but half way there I get a call saying guy went to go have it cleaned up for me and it was already being cleaned due to just being sold, Womp Womp.
#1713
Hi Everyone,
I am in need of helps so please help me if you can. I am not a tech or anything like that but I have worked on both of my Toyota cars so I am very comfortable with tools and stuff.
I have replaced my bother acura tl 2004 waterpump,new tensioner and tensioner pulley and also the idler pulley.
step 1- when I first tried to start the car. the car sounds like the belt is not moving so we rotate the pulley six times. after this, the belt seem to move very freely but it just wont turn the engine over. this procedure was done by marking how the old belt was and replace the new belt.
step 2- bought a service manual from automanualsource.com. This time i dont follow the old belt timing mark and anymore instead lining up the cams and crank. that look dead on when I installed the belt and I have verified it again after I rotated six times on the crank pulley with the spark plugs off ( spark plugs issue and one bad coil. will be in the next step if it is the right direction and it is the caused ) and the mark still sits dead on. slap everything on and tried to start the car. This time I did really hear that the car has turned over but just wont start. to me it sounds like something is not firing. I can smell feel at the engine bay so fuel delivery is not the issue I think.
Can any of you please guide me in the right direction and please tell me what I have done wrong that caused the car not starting but it is turning.
He is a college boy and does not have much money and that it is the reason why we decided to DIY with service manaul and youtube video.
Sincerely,
Mike
I am in need of helps so please help me if you can. I am not a tech or anything like that but I have worked on both of my Toyota cars so I am very comfortable with tools and stuff.
I have replaced my bother acura tl 2004 waterpump,new tensioner and tensioner pulley and also the idler pulley.
step 1- when I first tried to start the car. the car sounds like the belt is not moving so we rotate the pulley six times. after this, the belt seem to move very freely but it just wont turn the engine over. this procedure was done by marking how the old belt was and replace the new belt.
step 2- bought a service manual from automanualsource.com. This time i dont follow the old belt timing mark and anymore instead lining up the cams and crank. that look dead on when I installed the belt and I have verified it again after I rotated six times on the crank pulley with the spark plugs off ( spark plugs issue and one bad coil. will be in the next step if it is the right direction and it is the caused ) and the mark still sits dead on. slap everything on and tried to start the car. This time I did really hear that the car has turned over but just wont start. to me it sounds like something is not firing. I can smell feel at the engine bay so fuel delivery is not the issue I think.
Can any of you please guide me in the right direction and please tell me what I have done wrong that caused the car not starting but it is turning.
He is a college boy and does not have much money and that it is the reason why we decided to DIY with service manaul and youtube video.
Sincerely,
Mike
#1714
Race Director
^^^^did u get all the sensors plugged back in?
I'm sure you understand, but the TB does not "turn" the engine over.
Are you saying the first time you tried to start the car that the crank didn't turn at all?
If manually turning the crank the 1st time allowed you to go 6 turns without interference, then it's likely that timing was correct. I assume you marked the belt plus each of the 3 pulleys?
Did you get a lot of coolant on the CKP sensor?
I'm sure you understand, but the TB does not "turn" the engine over.
Are you saying the first time you tried to start the car that the crank didn't turn at all?
If manually turning the crank the 1st time allowed you to go 6 turns without interference, then it's likely that timing was correct. I assume you marked the belt plus each of the 3 pulleys?
Did you get a lot of coolant on the CKP sensor?
#1715
Yes, all the sensor was plugged in. there was only one sensors removed in the process was the intake sensor ( if that is the sensor you are referring to, yes it was plugged in) located just to the right of the PS pulley and sit just left the top of the engine.
the 1st time we tried to start the car, the crank wants to move but it is like something stuck that it cant moved and I am sure that it was the belt.
when we manually turns the crank six times, we did ran into resistance and this was with all plug and coil on. however, it lets us turns over freely with some resistance. at this time, this is where I bought the service manual and the rear cam was 30 degree off so I think the timing is not correctly but not to sure.
I marked the belt only where the arrow on the crank and the two cams are.
Yes, we did got a hole lot of coolant coming out and I was very surprised because my two Toyota was not that much. This could be the angle of the design that Acura Tl store the coolant on the engine block.
I did not clean up the coollant with brake cleaner because it was just a little clean ( I dont know how sensitive is this CKP sensors but I soak my toyota engines sensor all the time and start it up when it is still wet.
in the second round. instead of brake cleaner spray directly at it. I just soak the towel with brake cleaner and wipe around the CKP sensor.
the 1st time we tried to start the car, the crank wants to move but it is like something stuck that it cant moved and I am sure that it was the belt.
when we manually turns the crank six times, we did ran into resistance and this was with all plug and coil on. however, it lets us turns over freely with some resistance. at this time, this is where I bought the service manual and the rear cam was 30 degree off so I think the timing is not correctly but not to sure.
I marked the belt only where the arrow on the crank and the two cams are.
Yes, we did got a hole lot of coolant coming out and I was very surprised because my two Toyota was not that much. This could be the angle of the design that Acura Tl store the coolant on the engine block.
I did not clean up the coollant with brake cleaner because it was just a little clean ( I dont know how sensitive is this CKP sensors but I soak my toyota engines sensor all the time and start it up when it is still wet.
in the second round. instead of brake cleaner spray directly at it. I just soak the towel with brake cleaner and wipe around the CKP sensor.
#1716
Race Director
The good news is that it may only be on the rear head....
#1717
Sorry NFNsquared for this reply because I cant seem to find the edit button.
I second round where I have removed the spark plug and coils. I got 1,2,4,5,6 park plugs out and the 3. The boot was like stuck on the park plug so I force the coil out. all the spark was filled with fuels like dark black and smell very strong ( stronger than the spark plug is filled with oil).
In the process of putting the 5 plugs and all 6 coils in. coil 3 seem like it pushing against a rubber gasket so my brother forced in and when he screwed in. The bolt when in even deeper than the other 5 coils bolt so at this point. I am 100 percent sure that coil is not supplying the plug energy.
I am going to attemp to remove the stuck boot and replace coil number 3 with all six new plugs and hope it will start. if this does not resolve the issue. I will never touch the timing belt again but i am sure that this time is very correct on the belt timing with all the top dead centre lining up.
I second round where I have removed the spark plug and coils. I got 1,2,4,5,6 park plugs out and the 3. The boot was like stuck on the park plug so I force the coil out. all the spark was filled with fuels like dark black and smell very strong ( stronger than the spark plug is filled with oil).
In the process of putting the 5 plugs and all 6 coils in. coil 3 seem like it pushing against a rubber gasket so my brother forced in and when he screwed in. The bolt when in even deeper than the other 5 coils bolt so at this point. I am 100 percent sure that coil is not supplying the plug energy.
I am going to attemp to remove the stuck boot and replace coil number 3 with all six new plugs and hope it will start. if this does not resolve the issue. I will never touch the timing belt again but i am sure that this time is very correct on the belt timing with all the top dead centre lining up.
#1718
For anyone in Utah who needs help with their Acura / Honda vehicles, look no further than UTAH TSX (AcuraZine Community - View Profile: UTAH TSX). I bought the timing belt kit, plugs, serp belt, t-stat, and gaskets online. Dropped it off with 2 gallons of coolant and him and his son did a top notch job. Had it back to me in 2 days. They buffed my headlights, de-greased my entire engine bay (thing looks brand new), and even snapped my front bumper / fender back in place. Saved a ton of money and couldn't be happier. He even kept all of the old parts to show me what kind of shape they were in. Huge thanks to him and his son!
#1719
Race Director
Sorry NFNsquared for this reply because I cant seem to find the edit button.
I second round where I have removed the spark plug and coils. I got 1,2,4,5,6 park plugs out and the 3. The boot was like stuck on the park plug so I force the coil out. all the spark was filled with fuels like dark black and smell very strong ( stronger than the spark plug is filled with oil).
In the process of putting the 5 plugs and all 6 coils in. coil 3 seem like it pushing against a rubber gasket so my brother forced in and when he screwed in. The bolt when in even deeper than the other 5 coils bolt so at this point. I am 100 percent sure that coil is not supplying the plug energy.
I am going to attemp to remove the stuck boot and replace coil number 3 with all six new plugs and hope it will start. if this does not resolve the issue. I will never touch the timing belt again but i am sure that this time is very correct on the belt timing with all the top dead centre lining up.
I second round where I have removed the spark plug and coils. I got 1,2,4,5,6 park plugs out and the 3. The boot was like stuck on the park plug so I force the coil out. all the spark was filled with fuels like dark black and smell very strong ( stronger than the spark plug is filled with oil).
In the process of putting the 5 plugs and all 6 coils in. coil 3 seem like it pushing against a rubber gasket so my brother forced in and when he screwed in. The bolt when in even deeper than the other 5 coils bolt so at this point. I am 100 percent sure that coil is not supplying the plug energy.
I am going to attemp to remove the stuck boot and replace coil number 3 with all six new plugs and hope it will start. if this does not resolve the issue. I will never touch the timing belt again but i am sure that this time is very correct on the belt timing with all the top dead centre lining up.
That coil/plug issue sounds similar to the "water in the ECU" issue which is well known on our TLs. You should check the ECU for signs of water/corrosion. You should also check the A/C drain tube to be sure it's not plugged.
#1720
thanks for all the help NFNsquared.
for this sentence. "Well, that could explain why it didn't start, but with the rear cam 30 degrees off when you turned the engine with the starter, you could have still bent something. Only time will tell. Best of luck"
the 1st time when I removed the old belt. the rear cam was at the -30 degree with memory recalled. didn't look at the front cam and the front cam was maybe -10 degree and the crank was 30 degree. does this tell you anything?
as for right now, I will open up the whole top engine valve cover but just want to know how to ensure a bent or bents in the engine. I have looked at many of Ericthecarguy video but could not grab all the trick behind it. looking at the service manual and I know this is a time consuming job but I dont give in for it. can you please guide me to how to identified bent or bents and what should I look for?
as for this car, if I was my brother, I would not buy this car. the freaking transmission dip stick looks like it was never removed and the bolts was so corroded. the intake tube was ripped in half. the maf sensor is stuck on that when I attemp to remove the bolt and all it does it making a haxegon shape into a circle. I cannot imagine that the seller lies to his teeth telling the kid that he baby the car.
for the ECU water thingy. I will tackle it after the car start. as for now, I just want to the to start and have him drive it to honda dealer and re-learn the CKP setting.
for this sentence. "Well, that could explain why it didn't start, but with the rear cam 30 degrees off when you turned the engine with the starter, you could have still bent something. Only time will tell. Best of luck"
the 1st time when I removed the old belt. the rear cam was at the -30 degree with memory recalled. didn't look at the front cam and the front cam was maybe -10 degree and the crank was 30 degree. does this tell you anything?
as for right now, I will open up the whole top engine valve cover but just want to know how to ensure a bent or bents in the engine. I have looked at many of Ericthecarguy video but could not grab all the trick behind it. looking at the service manual and I know this is a time consuming job but I dont give in for it. can you please guide me to how to identified bent or bents and what should I look for?
as for this car, if I was my brother, I would not buy this car. the freaking transmission dip stick looks like it was never removed and the bolts was so corroded. the intake tube was ripped in half. the maf sensor is stuck on that when I attemp to remove the bolt and all it does it making a haxegon shape into a circle. I cannot imagine that the seller lies to his teeth telling the kid that he baby the car.
for the ECU water thingy. I will tackle it after the car start. as for now, I just want to the to start and have him drive it to honda dealer and re-learn the CKP setting.