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I’ve been searching the internet high and low for a post or video on vacuum pumping oil out of the Honda/Acura 2.0T engine through the dipstick hole using a siphon pump like the Mityvac 7201. This is very common practice for German automakers and dealerships as their oil filter is mounted topside in most engine designs, and the dipstick is aimed at the lowest part of the oil pan by design. No need for a jack, jack stands, etc. I decided after paying well over $300 for an oil change on my Mercedes ML350 at the dealership (10,000mi/annual OCI and 8qts of Mobil 1 Euro spec) that I’d like to try it out on both the Mercedes and RDX. So, I ordered the Mityvac from Amazon for $103.
The RDX only requires the oil filter changed every other change (service B), so my plan is to do the A service myself from the topside, and let the dealer have their inspection and do the oil and filter change every other time for all service B’s.
Here’s the setup from yesterday. I was able to remove about 4.25 qts. in about 10 minutes, where the manual indicates 4.6 qts. without changing the filter. Next time I may get a little bolder with moving the suction tube around a bit to try to get absolutely every drop. This was my first time using a fluid evacuator. The refill was 0W20 Mobil 1 synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy, about $25 at Walmart for a 5qt jug. In total I was in the garage about 20 minutes including taking care of the used oil.
Totally agree @Master47 . I have been using my Pela 6000 for the last 10 years and, by far, the best way to change your oil IMPO. It costs about $50 and handles 6.3 quarts. I use it on my lawn mower, generator, power washer, etc. Great investment!
I’ve been searching the internet high and low for a post or video on vacuum pumping oil out of the Honda/Acura 2.0T engine through the dipstick hole using a siphon pump like the Mityvac 7201. This is very common practice for German automakers and dealerships as their oil filter is mounted topside in most engine designs, and the dipstick is aimed at the lowest part of the oil pan by design. No need for a jack, jack stands, etc. I decided after paying well over $300 for an oil change on my Mercedes ML350 at the dealership (10,000mi/annual OCI and 8qts of Mobil 1 Euro spec) that I’d like to try it out on both the Mercedes and RDX. So, I ordered the Mityvac from Amazon for $103.
The RDX only requires the oil filter changed every other change (service B), so my plan is to do the A service myself from the topside, and let the dealer have their inspection and do the oil and filter change every other time for all service B’s.
Here’s the setup from yesterday. I was able to remove about 4.25 qts. in about 10 minutes, where the manual indicates 4.6 qts. without changing the filter. Next time I may get a little bolder with moving the suction tube around a bit to try to get absolutely every drop. This was my first time using a fluid evacuator. The refill was 0W20 Mobil 1 synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy, about $25 at Walmart for a 5qt jug. In total I was in the garage about 20 minutes including taking care of the used oil.
I was able to pump about 4.5 qt out. The car was parked with the front facing downhill (slight).
I was able to pump about 4.5 qt out. The car was parked with the front facing downhill (slight).
Thanks for the resurrection here. I have done it once more, and I had the RDX facing slightly downhill, and it worked a bit better. I don’t remember the exact amount, but I also changed the filter that time so had to go underneath, and for giggles took the drain plug out to see how much was left. If I had to guess, maybe two tablespoons more came out of the drain hole.
Our last oil change was at the dealer for the official B service as they do the rear diff. fluid. My plan now will be to do a $25 change at home for A service with suction down the dipstick, and take to dealership for B service to take care of some of the ancillary stuff and they can get under it for the filter.
I have a jack and stands, that’s how I checked how effective the much easier pump method was when I pulled the plug and changed the filter while I was down there. Prefer to avoid the while I was down there part.
I rotate tires during oil change, so front gets lifted anyway. No issues doing the old school drain
yep....and I like to take a look around while the car is up on stands....check brakes, suspension, look for leaks, etc. Goal is to keep any car away from the dealership as much as possible....especially after the warranty has expired. A few basic tools and a little time can save you a ton of cash.
yep....and I like to take a look around while the car is up on stands....check brakes, suspension, look for leaks, etc. Goal is to keep any car away from the dealership as much as possible....especially after the warranty has expired. A few basic tools and a little time can save you a ton of cash.
excellent point, a lot of DIYers skip on basic check for leaks oil, trans, shocks. Some of those leaks can be small and will not show up on the ground.
I’ve been searching the internet high and low for a post or video on vacuum pumping oil out of the Honda/Acura 2.0T engine through the dipstick hole using a siphon pump like the Mityvac 7201.
Not a fan of sucking old oil out of the dipstick tube. In my experience, you can never get all the oil sitting at the bottom of the oil pan. And that's usually where the the oil with the greatest amounts of contaminants are found. I also use a magnetic drain plug in all of my cars for the very same reason. My rule is drain the oil on a hot engine only, no other way to do it.
