Has anyone changed the oil in their 2013 RDX yet? I looked under the car and only saw a bunch of plastic guards hiding everything. How easy is the filter to get to? I usually change my own oil and was hoping the filter was easily accessible.

 

Should not be difficult. It may be possible a panel added to make it more aerodynamic and therefore more fuel efficient may need to be removed. I've always done my own maintenance, however, the Acura dealer I purchased from gives all new car buyers all the oil changes and tire rotations as recommended by Acura free for two full years so I will not get to change the oil myself for a while. There should not be too many who have had to do an oil change yet. Only high mile drivers who purchased when they first were available.

 

Anyone try a home oil change yet? Thinking to go with mobile synthetic to curn the idle vibrations.

 

Just did my first oil change at 10% oil life. Mileage was just over 9,000 miles mostly hwy miles. I do my own oil changes by using the siphon out the dipstick opening method. Easy. The oil filter, which I also changed is very easy to get to. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and you can easily reach the filter. 15 mins for the whole job. I used Mobil 1.

 

Great. Any diff after going to syn?

 

I haven't noticed any idle vibration before or after. I doubt any oil change would affect anything like that. I've used only synthetic oil in my cars ever since owning a BMW, which I still have.

I did change the oil filter even though the MID said oil change only. I figured it couldn't hurt to change the filter just in case and it was easy to reach.

 

I've done some research in prep for this.. So I'll just include my info for future reference.

Requires 4.5 Quarts of 0w-20 with a filter change every 7,500 miles.
Standard oil is Synthetic made by Idemitsu.
Acura filter part number is 15400-PLM-A01

Reset the light.
On the heads up display select Customize Settings
Select Maintance Info
Select Reset

 

My first oil change is covered so I can take it easy for that but the next one after will be all me. I'd like to do my own oil changes too.

I didn't know Synthetic oil helped with idle vibrations. Usually after the free oil change, or maybe a couple oil changes in, I'll start using Mobil 1 synthetic just so I can push the oil further - usually to 10k-ish.

In my '08 IS 350, I did a used oil analysis (UOA) from Blackstone at 12k miles and the analysis said at that point I Was pushing the oil to its limits. However, if I were to change the filter during the middle of the Oil interval (at say around 6k miles), I shoudl have been ok.

I was planning on doing something similar with this car.

Oh the MID tells you change oil or change filter and oil? I remember with my '04 Accord, per the manual it said to change the oil every 10k miles but the filter every 20k miles. I always thought that was odd.

Thanks!

 

I don't think 2013 needs synthetic oil based on manual.

 

I don't think of synthetic oil as a requirement. I've just always used synthetic oil and believe it to be superior to Dino oil. I've had two cars go 200,000 miles using only synthetic oil changed about every 10,000 miles and both engines where spotless when pulling a valve cover for inspection. We live in a small town so we have many short trips and I think that can be especially hard on oil.

My wife's car before the RDX was a 2002 TL with about 200,000 miles and never needed oil between changes. Not bad!

 

I will not use synthetic oil except the manual recommends it. Synthetic oil runs so many miles and time, it's not very good for car. Also 2013 RDX doesn't have an oil percent for Synthetic oil.

 

The manual says "you will need a special wrench for oil filter from the dealer". Anybody already bought this wrench? How is it?

 

It's a regular oil filter. I just used a banded oil filter wrench as is quite common. No "special wrench" required. Almost anyone who has done oil changes probably already has one of these hanging up somewhere.
I would recommend covering the frame below the oil filter as it is quite likely that some oil will spill there as you remove the old filter. I just used an old rag.

 

Just found the spec sheet for the 2013 Rdx. It holds 7 quarts of oil, not 4.5.

http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/ar...spx?id=6551-en

 

This is super confusion. Manual says 4.5 qt, non synthetic, 7500 mile per change can't be synthetic. Anyone did a change?

 

I'm just as confused as you are. I'll have a look at the service receipt to see how many quarts they used and post back.

 

Had my first oil and filter change last Thursday at 6300 miles with 15% life remaining on MID. Took it to the dealer and specified fully synthetic - not sure if they would have used non-synthetic if I had not specified. In any event, they charged me for 4.5 quarts. They also rotated the tires.

Must admit that I am confused now also. I thought there was no recommended mileage interval because the MID would indicate when to change oil. In addition, the MID would not know if you were using synthetic or not so the change interval must be the same if dino oil is allowed.

 

based on manual, it should be non synthetic oil and 4.5 quarts, did they give you first time oil change for free as I got in 2010? Does this new RDX use same oil filter and air filters as previous RDX?

The reason I like regular oil is my other car always got $19.99 oil change coupon from the dealer. So I don't need to DIY.

 

I have a question. The manual says regular oil 0w-20, if I use 10w-30 will it harmful to the engine? I am in Houston, don't have such a low temperature.

 

As to why 0W-20 specified Consumer Reports says it is fuel economy:

"But what's behind so many makers of ordinary cars requiring expensive synthetic oil in the first place? Linden says automakers can save between 0.5 and 1 percent on EPA fuel economy tests compared with 5W-20 motor oil. The tests are run starting with a cold engine, so the lower viscosity reduces friction until the engine warms up.

Indeed, when Honda first presented us with details about the 2012 CR-V, company engineers emphasized that they had gained 2 mpg in EPA fuel economy ratings mainly by reducing friction in the engine and other mechanical components, not by introducing new technologies like direct fuel injection or continuously variable transmissions."

Full text of article is at:
http://news.consumerreports.org/cars...sive-cars.html

 

Read the temp. chart in the Owner's Manual that gives info. on what type of climates 0W20 covers. It's all of us!! It was developed for ALL temp. conditions....not just colder weather. One of the KEY issues with these newer Honda engines is the very close tolerances they use now. Thus the eventual move to 0W20 weight oil. These engines have been run harder than any owner ever would in the hottest places in the world and in the coldest during the initial tests with the lower viscosity oils. Run at max RPM's for hours on end, trying to make them fail.

So, stay with 0W20 all of you and stop worrying. Nothing to be concerned about. You can take that to the bank!

 

So anyway ...
Anyone has done their own oil change yet?
What method did you use? which filter did you get?

I can easily see the oil filter and also what I think is the oil plug, but perhaps someone has tried the siphon method?
Did you have to jack/raise the car at all?

Thanks!

 

Man if you are not sure what the drain plug looks like,I don't know if you should try this.If you do you will need car ramps which will raise the front about 10 inches.The drain plug take a 17mm wrench.I always use the Honda filter(15400-PLM-A02).Your dealer will want about 8 bucks for one,I order 6 at a time from www.handa-accessories.com.Also honda uses a crushable washer on the drain plug,this should be changed at every oil change.Filters on line are $5.25 each,make sure you get the washers also.Don't know how this 7 qts keeps cropping up,the 3.5 takes about 4 1/2 qts.If this is the first time your filter has been changed,it will be very hard to remove.They seem to tighten them very hard at the factory.You will also need a pan to catch the old oil,and a filter wrench is very helpful.I have a wrench but it is not marked with a size number,I know it was the smallest one available.Also,just me,but I would NEVER syphon.

 

Good description and good advice. Changing oil on your own can be rewarding in many ways, and I used to do it on all my cars. One thing I did learn: it can be quite dangerous to use ramps with front-wheel drive cars. If the ramps are not perfectly lined up, you can have one wheel grab and throw a ramp, causing it to get wedged and causing damage to the car and ramps as well as potential injury.

If you plan to do oil changes yourself on a regular basis, I suggest purchasing a hydraulic jack and a pair of jack stands. They are reasonably inexpensive and well worth it. Sears usually has good deals on sets. For FWD cars, this is a safer proposition.

These days, I just wait for coupons for my Acura and Honda dealers. You can often get oil changes for $30 to $40. It's a lot less risk and a lot less mess + you don't have to worry about recycling the oil. And, often the deal includes tire rotation + topping off fluids. I just did this with my Ridgeline truck and the out-the-door cost was less than $27.

 

The oil drain plug is towards the passenger side and it says "Engine Oil Plug" right next to it. Filters can be bought from amazon. I fit perfectly under and had plenty of room to work without the need of jacking the car up. I found it easier than the extractor method and much more economical because those extractors can break after the first use. After you get used to changing the oil, it'll take you maybe 30 minutes max to do it. At that rate, it is very worth while to do it yourself to save $30-40 and I know it's done right. I've heard stories from jiffy lube customers that they failed to use the correct oil and they don't replace gaskets.

 

I'm new hear and my RDX AWD will arive later this week. If you should find it necessary to add oil before the 1st regular oil change comes due what are you using? I know you don't mix synthetic with dino but are you buying a quart of something from the dealer or just adding some dino 0/20W from off the shelf.

Thanks!

 

You can mix conventional and synthetic oil without problem. Despite lots of discussion either way, I beleive our RDXs came from the factory with Honda semi-synthetic oil. I bought a quart of Mobil 1 0-20w in case I needed it before my first change but did not need it. I used about one-fourth quart in 6300 miles. If you want to use Honda brand oil the semi-synthetic is part number 08798-9036 and the full synthetic is part number 08798-9037. Honda also sells a high moly content full synthetic in 0-20w but it is very expensive. They do not sell a conventional 0-20w oil. I am also fairly certain that it is not possible to produce a 0 weight oil without synthetic components i.e. a semi-synthetic.

 

I changed the oil in my RDX for the first time, and cheers go out to Acura for putting the oil filter in a good, accessible location. It is located on the left side as you are facing the front of the vehicle.

You will need a special Acura oil wrench as the filter is just a fraction smaller than an F size oil wrench. Also, the clamp style wrench didn't work well because of the location of the filter. The wrench I have for my Toyota Avalon worked perfectly. They also suggest changing the oil plug washer, which is about 25 cents.

I'm staying with 0-20 synthetic and changing at 7,500 miles. At about $7 a quart, cost is $35-$40 for me to change my own oil. Plus, I can change it faster than it takes to drive to the Quick lube place or dealer.

Sometimes you can Find the Mobil 1 oil on sale for under $5 quart too!

Good luck.

 

Do you need to remove panel? You mean the filter is smaller than first generation rdx?

 

You don't need to remove any panels.

I don't know about the size of the previous gen filters in comparison.

 

I'm glad to hear someone changing their own oil on their RDX. It probably is one of the easiest oil changes because you don't have any panels to remove and you don't need to jack up the car. I had no trouble getting the filter off with my bare hands because it wasn't torqued like crazy compared to other vehicles. The only issue I have is refilling because of all the plastic in the engine compartment that get in the way of my funnel. I end up having to use two funnels because I didn't have an extra narrow one.

 

I just got my first oil change done at the dealer for $70 for my 2013 RDX. I used have a 2012 TL and did all my oil changes myself. Had a fumoto valve installed on TL and the oil change was a breeze. Looking to do the same with 2013 RDX wondering if anyone using a fumoto valve on 2013 RDX and if they have any problems at all. Thanks.

 

Just did my first oil change at 5,100 miles, 40% life.
It was a DIY piece of cake.

Bought:
1. 5qt Mobil1 5w-20 full synthetic - $22.50
2. Fram Ultra Guard XG7317 - $8.50
3. Funnel $3
4. Fumoto F-106 drain valve with ADP-106 adapter $31 (optional)
I already had some basic tools and a 7qt oil drain pan.

What to do (a warm engine is best and drains faster):
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right, pop the hood.
2. Slide oil drain pan under
3. From front right, use a 17mm hex socket and ratchet to open drain plug .. the oil shoots out about 6-8 inches so be ready for it.
4. Once oil flow slows, move drain pan under oil filter and remove oil filter.
5. I made an aluminum foil drain chute for the oil from the oil filter to avoid dripping onto the frame
6. Filled new filter 3/4 full with new oil. Install new filter.
7. Installed Fumoto valve using a crescent wrench. Move the switch to open position for easier install. The fittings seal using a rubber washer; moderate tightness should be sufficient here. Ensure switch valve is facing an accessible direction for future usage. Don't forget to close the valve.
8. Place funnel, fill engine with new oil and check with dip stick.

This is so simple since you don't need to raise your car at all, and with the Fumoto valve it even gets easier!

The Fumoto valve allows draining the pan by a flip of a switch. The design and quality is top notch.
All my future oil changes will simply be turning the switch valve vs. removing a hot oil plug which squirts oil and likely making a mess as it drops to the drain pan.

As always, I suggest check the dip stick a 2nd time after running the engine a bit. Add oil as needed.

 

I don't like those numbers either, I remember back in the days when 0w20 was for winter months in Alaska, the midwest or the northeast, common oil was 5w30 in winter and 15w50 in summer. I like 5w30 in summer and recommended 0w20 in winter, any lower that that doesn't sound right to me.

 

ipribadi, I was about to order the Fumoto valve for my RDX - are you sure it is the adP-106 adapter and not the adL-106 that you ordered? The site seems to suggest that you need the ADL-106, but would prefer the shorter ADP if it worked for you.

 

Yargok,
I actually did get the ADP-106, tho I'd guess the ADL-106 would work too and perhaps a bit easier to install.
Anyway, 2,000 miles later and all is still good.

 

wow I never knew about the valve before. Sweet

 

So are you guys changing your own oil every 3,000 miles or whenever the MID says so?

I plan to do my own oil changes and wanted to use mobil 1 synthetic

 

The dealer used a semi-synthetic motor oil. I'd go by the MID. My first oil change was at 5,900 when the MID notice came up.

 

I've done a couple of changes already and am just about to do my third along with the differential fluid change. As others have noted, if you've ever done an oil change you'll find it couldn't be easier on the RDX -- no ramps, no muss, no fuss. Just crawl under and go. I've used a strap wrench and a self-tightening ratchet wrench on the filter - both work fine. The foil funnel to direct oil into the pan is a good idea -- it does tend to get on the frame a bit. I do grab an OEM filter and crush washer from the dealer, as the prices are reasonable and sometimes the build quality of Frams and the like aren't great.

I will say, having raced and done a lot of engine work on a lot of cars and motorcycles, you want to stick with the recommended oil viscosity. I live in Phoenix, and even with temps in the 115+ range the recommended oil works just fine providing lubrication and maintaining engine temp -- going with a higher viscosity oil (e.g. 5w30) will increase the oil pressure which could actually hinder the engine's ability to provide lubrication. Using a non-spec viscosity might give you warranty headaches down the road.

I agree with the prior comment that I don't believe a conventional oil is even available that meets the usual Honda 0w20 spec -- I have been using full-synth, which does provide lower friction, higher mileage and longer-lasting protection than conventional of semi-synth oils. You can get a jug of Mobil 1 0w20 at Wal-Mart for $20-25. The first number in a viscosity rating refers to how well the oil flows at colder temps, so a 0w will provide marginally better lubrication at start-up, lower oil pressure and better mileage than a 5w. (And yes, it is perfectly fine to mix synth and regular oil or different viscosities.)

If you wanna get really wonky, you can send away an oil sample for testing at Blackstone Labs http://www.blackstone-labs.net/ or a similar place. And for the super-wonky you can read all about oil at BobistheOilGuy.com forums. I do that for every change with my cars that are very heavily modified (e.g. my 375hp WRX), but I don't think it's needed for a typical street-driven car.

In general, though, it's an easy task and nothing to be intimidated about.

Ted