DIY RDX Oil Changes
11-11-2013, 03:59 PM
#41
I'd really like to hear how the differential fluid change goes, and what tools you used to re-fill the unit. Is there a unit up front to change fluid also? I haven't been underneath yet. The dealer did my first oil change, but I'll be doing them from now on.
11-11-2013, 11:11 PM
#42
Intermediate
I don't think there's anything analogous up front -- it's probably handled in the tranny.
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ARascal (07-15-2014)
11-19-2013, 10:42 PM
#44
quick question for those using the fumoto oil drain valve... are you using the washer that's already on the valve for a nice seal or are you using an acura oem crush washer... or both?
Thanks
Thanks
11-22-2013, 08:09 PM
#45
Instructor
I just used the washer on the valve which I think is a kinda plastic-rubber washer.
11-28-2013, 03:51 AM
#46
Acura has been using 0-20W for quite a while as for synthetic, total waste of money imho unless the manufacturer has specific recomendations for it or you run the engine in extreme conditions (high temp environments / WOT for a long time).
I change my oil every time my maint minder comes on in my CL-S. 130K and no leaks and no engine oil burning.
2007 Vino 125 is where i use synthetic as the machine run WOT (11K rpm) for miles on end and I change it every 2 K miles as recommended as it is carburated. that machine has 26K miles of WOT driving in temps ranging from -15F to 111F.
most of the time my car runs around 2K rpms (70mph) highway driving. when driving around town, i rarely go above 2K.
I change my oil every time my maint minder comes on in my CL-S. 130K and no leaks and no engine oil burning.
2007 Vino 125 is where i use synthetic as the machine run WOT (11K rpm) for miles on end and I change it every 2 K miles as recommended as it is carburated. that machine has 26K miles of WOT driving in temps ranging from -15F to 111F.
most of the time my car runs around 2K rpms (70mph) highway driving. when driving around town, i rarely go above 2K.
Last edited by YeuEmMaiMai; 11-28-2013 at 03:53 AM.
02-21-2014, 08:44 AM
#47
Intermediate
I haven't noticed any idle vibration before or after. I doubt any oil change would affect anything like that. I've used only synthetic oil in my cars ever since owning a BMW, which I still have.
I did change the oil filter even though the MID said oil change only. I figured it couldn't hurt to change the filter just in case and it was easy to reach.
I did change the oil filter even though the MID said oil change only. I figured it couldn't hurt to change the filter just in case and it was easy to reach.
02-21-2014, 03:10 PM
#48
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DIY Oil Changes
Just as an interesting aside our RDX now has about 40,000 miles on it. I have done all the oil changes using only Mobil 1 0-20. I take the oil out through the dipstick tube with an oil extractor. I can reach the oil filter just by turning the wheels out of the way. I change only by the MID which for us goes about every 8,000 miles. I have never had to add a drop of oil between changes. Maybe I just broke it in right.
02-23-2014, 06:06 AM
#49
Just as an interesting aside our RDX now has about 40,000 miles on it. I have done all the oil changes using only Mobil 1 0-20. I take the oil out through the dipstick tube with an oil extractor. I can reach the oil filter just by turning the wheels out of the way. I change only by the MID which for us goes about every 8,000 miles. I have never had to add a drop of oil between changes. Maybe I just broke it in right.
02-23-2014, 12:06 PM
#50
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I've done this with all my cars over the last 10 years. Two Acuras and a BMW. Never had a problem. Maybe a good idea would be draining the oil through the pan every 3 oil changes or so.
02-23-2014, 09:15 PM
#51
I would think that if you did it shortly after running and while the oil was still pretty hot it would be OK. Probably wouldn't hurt to drain it every so often, tho.
Any details on the oil extractor...make/model/where'd you get it?
Any details on the oil extractor...make/model/where'd you get it?
02-24-2014, 01:15 AM
#52
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I use a Mittyvac 7400. $68.00 or so on Amazon. I've had it 10 years with no problems. Very simple to operate. I can change the oil in about 15 mins and never get dirty. I did have to buy a long neck funnel to get the fresh oil back into the engine of the RDX! A little rediculous how far down the filer cap is.
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markAZ (02-24-2014)
04-19-2014, 11:43 PM
#53
My oil change experience
- Oil filter is one of the easiest to access among all of my cars
- Oil filler whole on the other hand is awkwardly too close to the radiator so a regular funnel will not fit in there, you either have to use a funnel with a long filler neck or use two funnels (smaller one goes first and then the larger one over the small one). I did the latter as I already had a set of funnels. Be careful though and don't pour the oil too fast so that you don't overfill the small funnel and cause a spill.
- I use mineral oils (never used synthetics) and had never have any engine problems but I never skip maintenance schedules.
- Oil filler whole on the other hand is awkwardly too close to the radiator so a regular funnel will not fit in there, you either have to use a funnel with a long filler neck or use two funnels (smaller one goes first and then the larger one over the small one). I did the latter as I already had a set of funnels. Be careful though and don't pour the oil too fast so that you don't overfill the small funnel and cause a spill.
- I use mineral oils (never used synthetics) and had never have any engine problems but I never skip maintenance schedules.
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5 Acuras (04-20-2014)
07-14-2014, 10:53 AM
#56
Instructor
My instructions (and probably all others in the 2nd gen forum) are for the 2nd Gen RDX 2013+.
There are no plastic guards to remove, just turn the wheel all the way to the right and the filter is easily visible. The drain plug is further in underneath pointing towards the back.
The oil change is a snap to do. Now its only the transport and disposal of old oil that I loathe to do.
There are no plastic guards to remove, just turn the wheel all the way to the right and the filter is easily visible. The drain plug is further in underneath pointing towards the back.
The oil change is a snap to do. Now its only the transport and disposal of old oil that I loathe to do.
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ovation (07-14-2014)
08-30-2014, 05:29 PM
#57
Attempting to do my first oil change, have a few questions!
1. Can I use any oil filter? Is any good? IS there any suggestions/links on where I can buy a good one?
2. Mobil 1 or Royal purple oil? Plan to get 0W-20
3. When I remove the drain plug for the first time to drain the oil, when it's finished do I put in a NEW drain plug with a washer or just re-tighten the old one?
1. Can I use any oil filter? Is any good? IS there any suggestions/links on where I can buy a good one?
2. Mobil 1 or Royal purple oil? Plan to get 0W-20
3. When I remove the drain plug for the first time to drain the oil, when it's finished do I put in a NEW drain plug with a washer or just re-tighten the old one?
Just did my first oil change at 5,100 miles, 40% life.
It was a DIY piece of cake.
Bought:
1. 5qt Mobil1 5w-20 full synthetic - $22.50
2. Fram Ultra Guard XG7317 - $8.50
3. Funnel $3
4. Fumoto F-106 drain valve with ADP-106 adapter $31 (optional)
I already had some basic tools and a 7qt oil drain pan.
What to do (a warm engine is best and drains faster):
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right, pop the hood.
2. Slide oil drain pan under
3. From front right, use a 17mm hex socket and ratchet to open drain plug .. the oil shoots out about 6-8 inches so be ready for it.
4. Once oil flow slows, move drain pan under oil filter and remove oil filter.
5. I made an aluminum foil drain chute for the oil from the oil filter to avoid dripping onto the frame
6. Filled new filter 3/4 full with new oil. Install new filter.
7. Installed Fumoto valve using a crescent wrench. Move the switch to open position for easier install. The fittings seal using a rubber washer; moderate tightness should be sufficient here. Ensure switch valve is facing an accessible direction for future usage. Don't forget to close the valve.
8. Place funnel, fill engine with new oil and check with dip stick.
This is so simple since you don't need to raise your car at all, and with the Fumoto valve it even gets easier!
The Fumoto valve allows draining the pan by a flip of a switch. The design and quality is top notch.
All my future oil changes will simply be turning the switch valve vs. removing a hot oil plug which squirts oil and likely making a mess as it drops to the drain pan.
As always, I suggest check the dip stick a 2nd time after running the engine a bit. Add oil as needed.
It was a DIY piece of cake.
Bought:
1. 5qt Mobil1 5w-20 full synthetic - $22.50
2. Fram Ultra Guard XG7317 - $8.50
3. Funnel $3
4. Fumoto F-106 drain valve with ADP-106 adapter $31 (optional)
I already had some basic tools and a 7qt oil drain pan.
What to do (a warm engine is best and drains faster):
1. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right, pop the hood.
2. Slide oil drain pan under
3. From front right, use a 17mm hex socket and ratchet to open drain plug .. the oil shoots out about 6-8 inches so be ready for it.
4. Once oil flow slows, move drain pan under oil filter and remove oil filter.
5. I made an aluminum foil drain chute for the oil from the oil filter to avoid dripping onto the frame
6. Filled new filter 3/4 full with new oil. Install new filter.
7. Installed Fumoto valve using a crescent wrench. Move the switch to open position for easier install. The fittings seal using a rubber washer; moderate tightness should be sufficient here. Ensure switch valve is facing an accessible direction for future usage. Don't forget to close the valve.
8. Place funnel, fill engine with new oil and check with dip stick.
This is so simple since you don't need to raise your car at all, and with the Fumoto valve it even gets easier!
The Fumoto valve allows draining the pan by a flip of a switch. The design and quality is top notch.
All my future oil changes will simply be turning the switch valve vs. removing a hot oil plug which squirts oil and likely making a mess as it drops to the drain pan.
As always, I suggest check the dip stick a 2nd time after running the engine a bit. Add oil as needed.
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ARascal (08-30-2014)
08-30-2014, 06:39 PM
#58
You cannot go wrong with Mobil-1, and any brand name filter is good enough as long as they claim to meet the mfg. requirements to maintain your warranty. The drain plug does not need to be replaced, but the aluminum washer should be replaced. I think it is a 14mm washer, but unless the dealer is too far away, get the filter and washer from them.
08-30-2014, 08:32 PM
#59
Pro
Just as an interesting aside our RDX now has about 40,000 miles on it. I have done all the oil changes using only Mobil 1 0-20. I take the oil out through the dipstick tube with an oil extractor. I can reach the oil filter just by turning the wheels out of the way. I change only by the MID which for us goes about every 8,000 miles. I have never had to add a drop of oil between changes. Maybe I just broke it in right.
08-30-2014, 08:34 PM
#60
Pro
Attempting to do my first oil change, have a few questions!
1. Can I use any oil filter? Is Royal Purple any good? IS there any suggestions/links on where I can buy a good one?
2. Mobil 1 or Royal purple oil? Plan to get 0W-20
3. When I remove the drain plug for the first time to drain the oil, when it's finished do I put in a NEW drain plug with a washer or just re-tighten the old one?
1. Can I use any oil filter? Is Royal Purple any good? IS there any suggestions/links on where I can buy a good one?
2. Mobil 1 or Royal purple oil? Plan to get 0W-20
3. When I remove the drain plug for the first time to drain the oil, when it's finished do I put in a NEW drain plug with a washer or just re-tighten the old one?
08-31-2014, 06:07 PM
#61
Of course your mileage may vary, so you are on your own, don't kill me if it leaks
09-02-2014, 09:51 AM
#62
Just did my first oil change at 10% oil life. Mileage was just over 9,000 miles mostly hwy miles. I do my own oil changes by using the siphon out the dipstick opening method. Easy. The oil filter, which I also changed is very easy to get to. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and you can easily reach the filter. 15 mins for the whole job. I used Mobil 1.
What he said. Get a oil filter wrench - that will help. The oil drain nut is clearly labeled.
09-03-2014, 07:47 PM
#63
Fumoto quick drain valve does not work on a 2014 even with the extension or without it the valve strikes the oil pan. Had to return it and the folks at quick valves that I bought it from admitted it does not work on the 2014. Just wanted to pass this along.
09-03-2014, 08:15 PM
#64
this oil filter wrench is like magic:
I use that wrench and installed a fumoto drain valve 2 oil changes ago. I always buy the 5 quart oil jug at walmart and put 4.5 quarts in my car. When I drain out oil during an oil change I usually get about 4 quarts of dirty oil. Maybe a tad over 4 quarts
I use that wrench and installed a fumoto drain valve 2 oil changes ago. I always buy the 5 quart oil jug at walmart and put 4.5 quarts in my car. When I drain out oil during an oil change I usually get about 4 quarts of dirty oil. Maybe a tad over 4 quarts
09-04-2014, 06:39 AM
#65
Pro
I was going to get one, too.
09-04-2014, 08:57 AM
#66
All is not lost, now that they know there is a problem they are working on a fix. The Quick Valve folks said to check the web site periodically and there should be a change with the needed extension that actually works. To be honest the drain plug is so accessible and easy to drain it is not that big of a deal.
09-04-2014, 02:04 PM
#67
I can vouch for the quality of the Fumoto valves. I installed it on my previous car (2005 Subaru Legacy GT) in 2005 and it was still tight as a drum with no leaks after almost 9 years and 160K miles.
09-04-2014, 10:22 PM
#68
Fumoto valve fit on my 2013 RDX AWD but it was tricky to install. I could not get it to work with the valve alone and had to use the extension. Even with the extension I had to do a series of opening and closing the valve to get some clearance while tightening it gradually. It was tricky but it fit
09-08-2014, 08:49 PM
#69
Fumoto valve fit on my 2013 RDX AWD but it was tricky to install. I could not get it to work with the valve alone and had to use the extension. Even with the extension I had to do a series of opening and closing the valve to get some clearance while tightening it gradually. It was tricky but it fit
We tried installing separately the whole unit together with the extension, nothing would work. Verified it with kwik valve they said they have had numerous calls from 2014 Rdx owners with the same complaint can't get the valve installed. They did say they will get an alternative extension that will work on the 2014. I will try again as the valve quality is first rate.
09-11-2014, 02:04 PM
#70
Instructor
Just like dc5k20z1 said, it was a bit tricky to "clock" the valve + extension just right to make it work.
I do believe you, but just wondering what had changed for the 2014 oil pan that would cause this. Or perhaps something changed on the Fumoto valve?
09-12-2014, 06:14 AM
#75
Pro
12-14-2014, 03:07 PM
#76
Should I be greatly concerned that I was able to drain over 5.5 quarts out of my wife's 13 RDX fwd? Bought it used with 23,500 miles on it. Last oil change was around 1,000 miles ago, and obviously the quick lube place overfilled it.
On another note, the oil filter was so tight, I had to hammer a screwdriver through it and torque it off that way. :/
On another note, the oil filter was so tight, I had to hammer a screwdriver through it and torque it off that way. :/
12-15-2014, 12:16 AM
#77
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My maintenance meter still has 50% left after 1 year since last change, the manual says after 1 year must change the oil, is that really necessary?
It says recommand 0w-20, can I use 5w-30 synthetic instead?
It says recommand 0w-20, can I use 5w-30 synthetic instead?
12-15-2014, 07:46 AM
#78
Pro
Should I be greatly concerned that I was able to drain over 5.5 quarts out of my wife's 13 RDX fwd? Bought it used with 23,500 miles on it. Last oil change was around 1,000 miles ago, and obviously the quick lube place overfilled it.
On another note, the oil filter was so tight, I had to hammer a screwdriver through it and torque it off that way. :/
On another note, the oil filter was so tight, I had to hammer a screwdriver through it and torque it off that way. :/
You should be able to tell after draining out the overfill and properly refilling, since the engine should run better. Was the oil foamy that you drained out?
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Civi9 (12-16-2014)
12-15-2014, 07:49 AM
#79
Pro
A lot of short trips are hard on your engine and oil, so changing it out probably would not hurt.
I would NOT go to a 5W-30, especially since it would void your warranty and violate your owner's manual. Your gas mileage would probably suffer by switching and a 0W synthetic should give better start-up protection (which is also better for a lot of short trips).
12-16-2014, 08:12 AM
#80
@hondu,
Thanks for the reply. The oil was not frothy or unusual looking. It was still pretty clear since it was changed not long ago.
I totally agree about quick lube places. It really pisses me off that it was overfilled like that. I checked the dipstick a week earlier and couldn't get a good reading, so I rushed the oil change and am so thankful I did.
My wife is driving it, and it went from averaging 25mpg to 26mpg, in 2 days of driving.
I also uninstalled the 28 lb hitch and set it aside for future use. I plan to try to find other ways to reduce unnecessary weight.
On a funny aside, we were at the gas station on Sunday and my wife asks, "do I HAVE TO pump 93?". Lol... I guess I'm just used to it with my 9th gen Si.
Thanks for the reply. The oil was not frothy or unusual looking. It was still pretty clear since it was changed not long ago.
I totally agree about quick lube places. It really pisses me off that it was overfilled like that. I checked the dipstick a week earlier and couldn't get a good reading, so I rushed the oil change and am so thankful I did.
My wife is driving it, and it went from averaging 25mpg to 26mpg, in 2 days of driving.
I also uninstalled the 28 lb hitch and set it aside for future use. I plan to try to find other ways to reduce unnecessary weight.
On a funny aside, we were at the gas station on Sunday and my wife asks, "do I HAVE TO pump 93?". Lol... I guess I'm just used to it with my 9th gen Si.