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He's running a custom (diy) icebox setup.. Pretty effective if you ask me.. The stock intake hoses/boxes are designed well and are good for quite a LOT of hp over stock. All on what sound you want with the whole intake debate until you start going big HP.. Then stock hoses start collapsing and shit under high boost/hp.
Sup guys, just got back from my honeymoon in Maui, Hawaii! It was awesome, definitely recommend going for anyone who loves to do outdoor activities.
Back on track though, yeah I had a custom cold air intake for a while, but my wheel well liner kept ripping off (unrelated) so I eventually just got rid of it because I was afraid of sucking in water/debris. I don't really believe in intakes, the oe intakes flow quite well. Even at 14psi VIT and I haven't seen any indication that the stock tubing is collapsing, so I don't see a need to buy a different one.
As for the footwell lights, they are just strip LED's that I bought from auto zone haha
Yes, I have but not specifically for the intake. I wanted to see how much engine movement I was getting. I never did it cause it's really dark once you close the hood. I think it would be easier to take the entire hood off and film. I might do that one day when I have time.
Yes, I have but not specifically for the intake. I wanted to see how much engine movement I was getting. I never did it cause it's really dark once you close the hood. I think it would be easier to take the entire hood off and film. I might do that one day when I have time.
Sup guys, just got back from my honeymoon in Maui, Hawaii! It was awesome, definitely recommend going for anyone who loves to do outdoor activities.
Back on track though, yeah I had a custom cold air intake for a while, but my wheel well liner kept ripping off (unrelated) so I eventually just got rid of it because I was afraid of sucking in water/debris. I don't really believe in intakes, the oe intakes flow quite well. Even at 14psiVIT and I haven't seen any indication that the stock tubing is collapsing, so I don't see a need to buy a different one.
As for the footwell lights, they are just strip LED's that I bought from auto zone haha
Just remember joe that "psi" is just a measure of pressure not horsepower. Twin scroll setups will spike in boost if there is not enough air flowing and burning through the motor (kinda like how a cork acts on a bottle of champagne after being shaken). To lessen overly peaky boost numbers (14lbs seems reeeeeeally high) motors are tuned in a such via new computer calibrations, porting/polishing, cams, injectors, intake, exhaust etc. to use more of that unused air causing the extra pressure. I know you don't believe in intake/exhaust but those stock parts reach a certain threshold where they do not measure enough CFM (such as your stock cat) to run a certain setup properly. Not saying your stock intake/exhaust doesn't flow well but I definitely know that they were not designed to flow anywhere near the amount of air you are bringing in/out of that motor. Has Vit recommended you upgrade the included injectors at all with you pulling so much denser and cooler air than the stage 1 setup?? What are your injector duty cycles looking like when datalogging??
Just remember joe that "psi" is just a measure of pressure not horsepower. Twin scroll setups will spike in boost if there is not enough air flowing and burning through the motor (kinda like how a cork acts on a bottle of champagne after being shaken). To lessen overly peaky boost numbers (14lbs seems reeeeeeally high) motors are tuned in a such via new computer calibrations, porting/polishing, cams, injectors, intake, exhaust etc. to use more of that unused air causing the extra pressure. I know you don't believe in intake/exhaust but those stock parts reach a certain threshold where they do not measure enough CFM (such as your stock cat) to run a certain setup properly. Not saying your stock intake/exhaust doesn't flow well but I definitely know that they were not designed to flow anywhere near the amount of air you are bringing in/out of that motor. Has Vit recommended you upgrade the included injectors at all with you pulling so much denser and cooler air than the stage 1 setup?? What are your injector duty cycles looking like when datalogging??
Well, I never said anything about hp.. All I was saying is that even when Manifold pressure climbs past 10psi it's holding. If the intake tube started to collapse then you would see a drop in boost ( just like I had when my belt was slipping).
I completely agree with you on the exhaust portion, and actually my secondary CAT was causing a back pressure and making me hit peak boost at 5000rpm (instead of a linear clib to 7000rpm) That's why I've gone straight pipes now, and looks much better in the datalogs.
But yeah, back to intakes... I have the res delete which is essentially a SRI. The oe intake has shown any signs of being inferior to any other aftermarket intake that's out there. I do agree though, porting and polishing brings your psi down because it reduces friction causing less heat and less pressure. I'm not doing any other upgrades to the engine, so I'm not pursuing any other means to reduce heat. I dropped pulley size, but also added the cooler. Pretty much evens itself out as far as stress goes (well it should in theory). So yeah that's the thought process.
He's running a custom (diy) icebox setup.. Pretty effective if you ask me.. The stock intake hoses/boxes are designed well and are good for quite a LOT of hp over stock. All on what sound you want with the whole intake debate until you start going big HP.. Then stock hoses start collapsing and shit under high boost/hp.
Plus... you will rarely see me contradicting myself (at least not on the same page of a thread lol)
Plus... you will rarely see me contradicting myself (at least not on the same page of a thread lol)
lmao.. yeah I'm good on the exhaust side (for now). No more CATs, but the rasp is bad. I'm gunna try and get a resonator welded into the stock exhaust soon.
I talked Rich over at RV6 and he said a full exhaust should be ready around summer time~$800. I'm not holding my breath, but I'm considering. If the resonator makes my exhaust sound normal again, it'll be hard to bight the bullet on buying a full exhaust TBH.
And I forgot to answer your other question.. the injectors are 780cc flow rate. It's over double the stock injectors. The CT kit was designed for modular upgrades. I don't think I have ever seen the injector duty cycle hit 75%
Oh, and to comment on the 14psi.. that spike is mostly due to cam angle timing and not allowing vtec to KICK IN YO.... I even made the comment to VIT about it being high, and he was like "you're fine, I have you on a moderate tune.. I could push it to 20psi and you would still be ok"
As of late, the boost climb is very linear and pretty much maxes out at 12psi 7500rpm
Yeah I gotta figure out how to do the e-dyno thing? It looks like maybe $10 for a 1 month subscription? I guess I can upload as many files as I want for a whole month? Idk how it all work? Utah? Can you explain?
My final numbers are ~11.6 psi @ 7200rpm
Feels really good, I'm easing into the aggressive driving. I have to re-learn the limits of the car and it's shift points. I'm a little jerky, the rpms drop so quickly now, it's like the needle has a lead weight on the end haha
I'm getting some vibration in low load 2nd gear 2k-4k rpm and at high end WOT. I gotta investigate further but I think my axles/ cv joints are reaching their lifetime.
I'll try to post videos and stuff in the near future. I gotta get my AC fixed (~$780 all said and done) then get a resonator welded into place. Still got a good amount of work left, but sooooo glad to finally have my bae back to full health haha
yeah i gotta figure out how to do the e-dyno thing? It looks like maybe $10 for a 1 month subscription? I guess i can upload as many files as i want for a whole month? Idk how it all work? Utah? Can you explain?
My final numbers are ~11.6 psi @ 7200rpm
feels really good, i'm easing into the aggressive driving. I have to re-learn the limits of the car and it's shift points. I'm a little jerky, the rpms drop so quickly now, it's like the needle has a lead weight on the end haha
i'm getting some vibration in low load 2nd gear 2k-4k rpm and at high end wot. I gotta investigate further but i think my axles/ cv joints are reaching their lifetime.
I'll try to post videos and stuff in the near future. I gotta get my ac fixed (~$780 all said and done) then get a resonator welded into place. Still got a good amount of work left, but sooooo glad to finally have my bae back to full health haha
ask vit if he will send you one to post on here he will most likely just give you one
I asked 2 days ago what he thought my HP and TQ were (just estimates) because we have a Honda car show next week and he said he didn't wanna guess and that I had to do an E-Dyno to find out... but didn't mention anything about throwing a free one in for me haha
I post on the 9th gen civic forum every once in a while and I know some guys that have been waiting for almost 3 months. I think CT is just backed up on getting orders for the blower. I got really lucky with how quickly mine came in.
Here it is guys! I reached my goal and I'm really happy with it!! I felt like I was looking at the results of an engineering exam. I got nervous.. but #whineanddine performed great! I only went to 7200RPM but I might do a red-line log to see where she is at around 7500RPM
I post on the 9th gen civic forum every once in a while and I know some guys that have been waiting for almost 3 months. I think CT is just backed up on getting orders for the blower. I got really lucky with how quickly mine came in.
Marcus just called me with an update. Ct-e is waiting for the manifold adapters to come in.
Here it is guys! I reached my goal and I'm really happy with it!! I felt like I was looking at the results of an engineering exam. I got nervous.. but #whineanddine performed great! I only went to 7200RPM but I might do a red-line log to see where she is at around 7500RPM
PEAK WHP= 307HP @ 7200 RPM
Peak TQ= 262 @5000 RPM
Such a SICK torque curve haha! Congrats! Now it's time to drive the axles off...
You get a std size pulley from the eaton blower which is 3.6" in diameter. At ~7500 rpm it'll make ~6psi of boost. We all know that colder air is better because it is more dense than warm air, another way to make the air more dense is to compress it and force the particles to be closer together i.e. supercharger. So if you want more power then you need to compress more air. The way you do it is to make the blower spin faster (more revolutions) per same crank rpm by reducing the blower pulley size.
I swapped the 3.6" pulley for a 2.95" pulley to create more boost. The problem is that with added pressure comes added heat, and this heat in the SC and manifold is transferred to all of your engine components and can cause a catastrophic failure. So you need to cool the air/components back down to a tolerable temp. You do this by adding an aftercooler. You also need to upgrade spark plugs to withstand the extra heat as well.
Here is a post from 9th gen that's very informative. Shows the turbine speed vs. pulley size.
6.37 / 3.60 x 7500 = 13271
6.37 / 3.40 x 7500 = 14051
6.37 / 3.30 x 7500 = 14477
6.37 / 3.20 x 7500 = 14929
6.37 / 3.15 x 7500 = 15167 Aftercooler recommended
6.37 / 3.00 x 7500 = 15924 Aftercooler needed
6.37 / 2.90 x 7500 = 16474 Aftercooler needed
6.37 / 2.80 x 7500 = 17062 Aftercooler + blower porting + 2 Step colder plugs needed
6.37 / 2.60 x 7500 = 18375 Aftercooler + blower porting + 2 Step colder plugs needed + possible blower bearing issues
I personally would recommend 1 step colder plugs and aftercoolers with all setups for extra security and of course power
In the end, I did the following for my setup:
1) Spec stage 2 clutch
2) 1-step colder spark plugs
3) 2.95" pulley
4) Merc Racing aftercooler
You get a std size pulley from the eaton blower which is 3.6" in diameter. At ~7500 rpm it'll make ~6psi of boost. We all know that colder air is better because it is more dense than warm air, another way to make the air more dense is to compress it and force the particles to be closer together i.e. supercharger. So if you want more power then you need to compress more air. The way you do it is to make the blower spin faster (more revolutions) per same crank rpm by reducing the blower pulley size.
I swapped the 3.6" pulley for a 2.95" pulley to create more boost. The problem is that with added pressure comes added heat, and this heat in the SC and manifold is transferred to all of your engine components and can cause a catastrophic failure. So you need to cool the air/components back down to a tolerable temp. You do this by adding an aftercooler. You also need to upgrade spark plugs to withstand the extra heat as well.
Here is a post from 9th gen that's very informative. Shows the turbine speed vs. pulley size.
6.37 / 3.60 x 7500 = 13271
6.37 / 3.40 x 7500 = 14051
6.37 / 3.30 x 7500 = 14477
6.37 / 3.20 x 7500 = 14929
6.37 / 3.15 x 7500 = 15167 Aftercooler recommended
6.37 / 3.00 x 7500 = 15924 Aftercooler needed
6.37 / 2.90 x 7500 = 16474 Aftercooler needed
6.37 / 2.80 x 7500 = 17062 Aftercooler + blower porting + 2 Step colder plugs needed
6.37 / 2.60 x 7500 = 18375 Aftercooler + blower porting + 2 Step colder plugs needed + possible blower bearing issues
I personally would recommend 1 step colder plugs and aftercoolers with all setups for extra security and of course power
In the end, I did the following for my setup:
1) Spec stage 2 clutch
2) 1-step colder spark plugs
3) 2.95" pulley
4) Merc Racing aftercooler
I know this is mostly borrowed, but this is sticky-level information for anyone who intends on supercharging their CU2!
Congrats once again Joe. Your car must be a blast to daily. Mad jelly
Just wondering if you have found any type of a solution to keep the front tires on the road, like any type of after market motor mounts or modified OEM mounts ?
05-05-2015, 02:55 AM
