iCrap

Yeah idk live tuning is so broken... I tried multiple times with no results.

Dime Feng

2nd to last tune I think...
Lots of cleanup done.

I wont have another tune till I get my car back in 2 weeks because I'm building a new custom exhaust cuz the magnaflow's drone got annoying. Gonna try Megan mufflers with a vibrant resonator and see how that goes. Also getting my XXR's paint matched , and got gsp camber kit.

Anyone got a diy for how to install camber kits? Is it just take out the bolts and swap the bars then get align or is there something else to it?

optimusaccord

Everyone complains about the magnaflow drone....

I was going to go with magnaflow. I have used their products in the past and enjoy it.

Did you have dual exhaust?

Glad that the tuning is nearly finished.

I had all three control arms swapped on each side in the back.

Make sure you have a way to exert torque on the wheels, because when you pull the control arms out, your springs will push the arms out of lining up with the connection points on the subframe. So long as you can push the suspension up, you should have no problems putting the camber arms in.

Dime Feng

Yeh dual magnaflows 11225 with a custom tip.

So basically If i use a hydro jack to push up on the wheels when i take the bar off, it should be cool?

optimusaccord

Yeah, you can probably just place the jack on the spindle, and push up on it.

Just be careful and it should be no problem.

tsxronald

Vittuned will start tuning my car on Tuesday. I can't wait for the results.

ssjoeboe9

What upgrades have you done besides the rsx cutch and light weight flywheel?

tsxronald

I have a few mods.... Injen cai, UR pulleys, throttle body spacer, port and polished heads 5mm with SI titanium valve and springs, and custom 2.5 exhaust. Soon I will be doing a rrc swap bigger injectors, ktuned fuel rail and fuel pump.

ssjoeboe9

Staying N/A?

tsxronald

No going turbo later.

UTAH TSX

Just saw this https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1780219&type=1

UTAH TSX

2011 up TSX coming more talk I think this is real
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Axion...ation=timeline

ssjoeboe9

Sweeeeet!

More support!

iCrap

I wonder if its just a software update or a whole new flashpro?

ssjoeboe9

Most likely just software..

They recently released FP with new hardware (BT capability) so I would expect that no hardware change is necessary.

xtcnrice

y YESSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dime Feng

So guys I know i haven't been posting up new maps. Reason being is that i'm getting a high knock count reading on these maps. I had a local tuner (ASP) look over the datalogs and he told me that my maps are running too lean, which could be the reason im getting high knock count readings, Or he said it might be a bad o2 senor or knock sensor. I dont know if i should trust the local tuner or vit... Local tuner said my a/f should be around 11.1-12.8. Vits tunes are in the 12-14 range..

Oh btw finally got the camber kit installed. Man.. shit took me 8 hours to put in -.-"
If anyone plans on getting GSP camber kit make sure u buy the bolts because they dont come with all the bolts.
And it says +\- 1 degree of camber.. so not true. each arm gave me around 0.7 degrees.

ssjoeboe9

So I would think that Vit could help you solve this problem, but if you are comfortable with changing some stuff and data logging on your own I would try this:

Open up your calibration and look at "ignition cylinder trim". I don't know what you are currently running for trim unless you upload your calibration, but stock is 0 for each cylinder.

Basically this either advances, or retards when you get explosion in your cylinder. So the cylinder that is getting knock is generally the cylinder getting the most air, so you need to retard that cylinder in order to balance it better.

The article from Hondata is HERE

Hope this helps, and let me know if you have questions. I'm not an expert, but I could look at your calibration and give my opinion (for what it's worth)

rezare

Can you post a datalog with the knocks or make a XY graph RPM vs Knock Count and see if they're all around 2500-3000rpm zone?

Dime Feng

Heres the map and datalog.

rezare

At WOT the car is not lean, so it's not that. I have another question: do you have exhaust rasp at 4500-5000rpm?

I ask that because I too have the RV6 downpipe and a tune from Vit and I also get high knock count in cylinder 3 only, but mine are at the 2500-3000rpm range and that's where the exhaust has maximum vibration/rasp with a metallic sound. I've investigated this with Vit too when I had my map done and came to the conclusion that is phantom knock (we decreased ignition by 10 degrees and it still knocked).

Your ignition timing is low, A/F ratio is good, so it shouldn't really knock there unless it's the same thing as I have, an exhaust noise. I see you have Magnaflows, maybe that's why your range is different. I have the RV6 and HFC cat, but on the stock exhaust.

xtcnrice

You may need a resonator to kill off the rasp. It's a known issue with the RV6 that rasp occurs around that RPM range. Maybe with the resonator in, your phantom knocks will decrease.

Off topic, you have any (w)hp figures with the RV6 PCD + HFC? Untuned vs Vit tuned?

rezare

Yeah, I've read about getting another resonator, but I'll hold off on that until Richie releases its full catback and get that.

I don't have before runs with Vit, but after the tune I'm at around 195-200 whp. RV6 is not the only mod though, I have p2r ported runners, zdx tb, takeda sri and lightweight pulleys from UR. I'll also get in about two weeks an 8th gen flywheel and clutch. I had previously an european made reflash, but flashpro and tune was much, much better for the mods.

xtcnrice

that's pretty good, congrats!

and yeah I've always wondered about those euro reflashes, good to know Hondata is worth the money

ssjoeboe9

Hey man, I looked at your datalog.. and while there were no changes made to the ignition cylinder trim like I mentioned, you can see there there are quite a few differences made to knock retard, and knock ignition limit. I haven't investigated what this means.. but I do know that knock control tables are to adjust how your car runs for certain octanes.

This is a comparison of whats given from Hondata to the calibration you have uploaded. Maybe try asking Vit if you can do anything about such high knock on cylinder 2. Here is a link to knock control tables and how they work.

Here is a pic of stock calibration vs your calibrastion.

Dime Feng

I just put in some megan mufflers last week. Got rid of the magnaflows and running straight pipe no res. It did seem to increase knock after i got the mufflers, so maybe that it. And no i dont have the dyno sheets for stock.

ssjoeboe9

Dime Feng...

You would be a pioneer if you were to upload your final calibration to the Hondata Vault. I also plan to upload my final tune to the vault so that others can have a solid starting point on this platform. Check it out... only a few people from the CL9 crowd have contributed.

optimusaccord

How are the megan mufflers?

I'm thinking about going flowmaster or something old school like that.

Dime Feng

It sounds the same as magnaflows below 3500 rpm and the higher u rev the more high pitched it gets. Kinda cool sounding, ill post a video when i have time. Its friggan raining in sf cant do datalogs.

optimusaccord

Doing my datalog tonight, I heard knock for sure.

Looking at the datalog, it looks like my k level percentage got up around 80%, and k retard has a value of 20.

Is this a good thing or no?

Utah, how many maps did you go through? Just curious.

UTAH TSX

Be careful if you hear knock stop and send the data to vit, I did about 30 maps

optimusaccord

Was talking to vit, he said I hit the rev limiter...

I believe him.

Its feeling good.

UTAH TSX

Yeah these things hit redline so fast now from 4500 RPM to redline is just a few seconds, have you started turning up the boost yet ?
It's cold and rainey this morning and my car loves it, to bad there is zero traction to be had it's a spin fest even on the freeway I need your differential

optimusaccord

We have not started turning up the boost yet.

I am looking forward to that though.

Yesterday I did WOT in second gear, the VSA is so aggressive, it slams the throttle shut, and the BPV sounded off. So, going to have to do something about traction at some point.

The diff is magically delicious though.

ssjoeboe9

I'm figuring out the wiring for my wideband gauge right now. Test fit the sensor in the RV6 pipe and it's a direct fit with no problems. So hopefully in the next few weeks I can get the second gauge/sensor installed and do a few datalogs to make sure everything is in check and next step will be ordering a new serpentine belt and installing the aftercooler (with a Vit tune to follow)

It's exciting to hear your results Optimus!

optimusaccord

I'm on 3.2, and looks like we are doing ignition timing, and cam angle still.

Hopefully this week, I'll inquire with him when he believes it to be safe to start slowly increasing the duty cycle on the aem tru boost controller. I am set at 10% right now, which is as low as it will go.

VitViper

Probably next cal, I've found a spot I like for timing at the current boost level.

UTAH TSX

what do you think about Optimuses EFR 7670 tubo compared to the precision so many of us have ?

VitViper

The EFR's work... they do make power. I have tons of customers very happy with the turbos, and one of my favorite projects is Andrew's MR2 with the K swap & twin scroll EWG 7670.

However I have my personal preference for turbos... I personally run Comp's stuff as they also work very well and Comp has treated me well on any issues I've run into (and let's not kid anyone, everyone's turbos tend to crap out from time to time, lol). My S2000 is a recirculated setup with a Comp CT4-5862 and it makes a plenty of power (580 @ 20lbs or so) on a stock motor.

If it came down to Precision or EFR, I would personally use a Precision.

optimusaccord

Is that based on cost?