i am thinking about upgrading the stock speakers on my non-tech premium stereo.
so to my understanding there are a total of 7 speakers
2 front speakers
2 front tweeters
2 rear deck
1 sub


im looking at a simple swap not looking to upgrade stock amp.
in the future i would be swaping to a double din head unit.

Also looks like it would also a bit difficult to be putting an after market tweeter in the current location without modding it.
are all the front speakers and rear speakers the same size 6x1/2 4ohm?

 

The door speakers are 6 1/2
The two deck speakers are 6x9
The sub is 8"

Not sure what the tweeter size is.

I think.

All my research is at home.

 

From infinity's site


Front Door Speaker
Size 6.5
Depth 3

Front Tweeter
Size 1
Depth 1

Rear Door Speaker
Size 6.5
Depth 2

Subwoofer
Size 8
Depth 4

 

You will need spacers for the doors no matter what speaker you install.
For the tweeters I ordered a set of sail panels and used them to install the new tweeters. Then when I switched back to stock I just installed the original sail panels.
As far as the HU unless you want to add some aftermarket features you will gain nothing. The HU is good clean and flat. Replace the factory amp for a great system.
Here is how I installed my speakers.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tsx-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-304/2nd-gen-tsx-door-speaker-removal-install-instructions-772383/

Jeff

 

Mine doesn't have rear door speakers. So does that mean the deck is 6.5 or 6x9

 

Thanks for the info! I will check out your build. I just feel the stock speakers sound muffled an not clean and crisp. I do want an aftermarket head unit in the future. Is replacing the stock amp a plug n play or is rewiring required

 

if i were to just replace all my speakers and replace the stock amp - looks recommended. where does power to the amp come from? do i need to run a seperate power cable or can i take it from the stock amp

 

okay so how does replacing speakers and adding a subwoofer in the trunk and adding amps for the speakers and sub with stock unit sound? will that work well?

 

im alos looking into upgrading stereo and so far everyone is telling me that as long as i get good amp and speaker it would be enough for great sound but if you looking for something to beat records and break windows then you need to replace the stock unit

 

same here...im just looking for clean and cristp sound with a little bass.

 

A couple years ago when the speakers would constantly blow on me I got tired of it and brought it to a shop for an upgrade......Replaced all the stock speakers with Alpine Rs....and everyday of my life is better....the speaker position is perfect so that + better speakers = sex

 

If you're not upgrading the stock amp, you don't want Type R's. They need more power than a stock amp will provide. I just ordered Alpine Type S's from Amazon Marketplace for my TSX. Front: SPS-610c (includes tweeter replacement). Rear: SPS-619 3-way 6x9's. I plan to have Best Buy's Geek Squad do the installation, unless my body shop is willing to take this on. Type S's in my 2004 TSX made a huge difference, and I'm hoping for even better results with the new 3-way's.

 

i might go with aftermarket amp. i might drop by a shop to see how much install and custom box would cost. i do have two alpine SWE-1243 and an amp that i havent really used. not sure if i want to have these two installed or go with better single sub

 

Crutchfield says the 610's won't fit in the front door of a TSX. I may be exchanging these!

 

so i got a quote to get my speakers installed. i think imma put a subwoofer also. i told the shop i wanted a woofer on the side of my trunk but was told a trimmed box would have a better sound - downside i wont be able to fold my seats. anybody have input on this?
thanks

 

Guess it depends on how often you fold down your rear seats. I've never had but I use my trunk for my hockey equipment so losing much space would not be an option for me. I'm sure any upgrade would be a step up but I'm not sure as I'm still thinking all this stuff out. Keep us updated and good luck!

 

i havent folded my seats once yet. i just have to figure out what speakers im going to use. i will be running two amps one for speakers and one for sub

 

so i have narrowed down my parts

JL AUDIO C2-525x 5 1/4 for Front and Rears
Alpine MRP-F300 AMP

JL AUDIO 12w3v3-4 Sub
Alpine MRP-M500 Amp

 

any reasoning for running different brand amps?

I have two 12w3v3-4 sitting at home with a jl xd600/1 to power them, but to be honest I wish I went with one jl 12 w6v2-4 instead.

 

you mean alpine amp rather than JL amp? i already have the alpine from another project

 

okay im getting "floor noise" the shop is trying to figure out why this is happening. one said that a audison bit 10 will reduce it alot to where i wont notice it and one guy said it wont . any idea?

 

Any audio gurus out there? I also have a cheaper option of using jl audio clean sweep

 

So I haven't done any mods to my system yet, but I've been doing a lot of reading on here trying to wrap my head around the cleanest, best way to implement a system. Before I ramble any more, I'd like to ask anybody with knowledge out there to chime in. I want to do a full blown tutorial when I install my gear to settle these posts once and for all. It shouldn't be a research project to upgrade our speakers.

So far, I've gathered that we have two options for implementing a full install (and not just a subwoofer). Note that this applies to the non-ELS system. If you have the ELS (DVD audio) system, mercman is the expert and it seems like a pita.

1.) Grab signal before the stock amp - to do this you need to convert the speaker wire to RCA AND use an amp that accepts differential balanced inputs. JLs can accept balanced so can a few others. I've read that a lot of people still have noise issues when doing the RCA splice, but some have had success. Maybe users with noise have not been using the correct amp type? Lookup user "Mercman" and his harness for more dialogue about this.

2.) Grab signal after the amp - at this point the signal is split and you have:
-Front Left/Right Tweeter wires - high freq only
-Front Left/Right midbass wires - all freq below tweeter crossover point
-Rear left/right wires - I forget if these are full freq or if the lowend is cutout due to the subwoofer filling in.
-Subwoofer

This gives us the 7 channels we see advertised. From this point, I think the cleanest solution is an AudioControl LC6i. What you do is run all of the speaker wires into it and it will give you RCA preamp outputs. You'll be able to run front, rear and sub RCA preamps into the amp of your choice. The nice thing about this is that it will sum the signal on the front channels so you can pass the amp the full sound spectrum. I saw one member in a forum that said he had excellent results with this.

 

I’m not sure how your shop connected the Alpines to the factory HU but if they attempted to take the signal before the factory amp it won’t work. The Alpines are not compatible with the balanced differential signal from the HU. This would be why you have noise. The only way to fix it is to use amps with balanced inputs or a converter like the one I used to make for the first Gens. There is no way to remove the noise with a digital EQ or DSP.

The second issue you will have is the factory system used a switched 12V and a mute signal to control the amp and eliminate “pops”. There is no way to include the mute with the amp turn on without some electronics to merge the signals
Jeff

 

i think but i would have to check with them...they took the signal after the factory amp. so hooking up a audison bit 10 will not clean up the signal?

 

Processors can change the shape of the sound but can’t tell sound from noise. If they took the signal after the amp then two things could be wrong;
Poor connections or incorrectly connected LOCs, the amp is BTL so they have to make sure they do not ground any of the speaker outputs.
Gain, this should be the first thing checked, did they set the gain with a test tone and meter?

Jeff

 

okay i got the car back from the shop and my audison bit ten/10 installed and change in sound is like night and day!

 

hey man..any idea on how they hooked it up? did they completely avoid the stock amp? or is it still part of your system?

 

What is "floor noise"?
Did the Bit10 eliminate the noise?

I've had static in my system for quite some time. I'm running an LC6i as my LOC, which I think might be the cause of it


@Mercman, in what ways could you not properly connect an LOC or ground a speaker output?

 

to everyone thats grabbing the signal off the stock sub .. do u guys actually have control over your aftermarket subs with the headunit control? when i put all my music to the front my sub doesnt make a sound.. im almost positive the signal is off my sub.. and when i play with the sub control nothing really changes

 

with my bit10 i dont have the controller so they installed a seperate knob for me to control the sub.

 

do it

 

I had LC7 in my 08 Accord EX-L/Navi which the systems are pretty much cousins with base TSX. btw OP why did you go 5.25 vs. 6.5 like stock? Seems like you could have had a lot more useable mid-bass. Especially after dyna-mat.