2G TSX Chat, Chit, and General Info Thread

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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 09:29 AM
  #24121  
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Originally Posted by MC MiYoung3269
One of my buddy's in Dallas has universal flares on his running 18x10.5 +15 with 1" spacers LOL
I want to meet this guy.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 09:32 AM
  #24122  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
I've heard of some space blanket type material that you could put up there that doesn't cause mold to grow.. but the ridge vent.. it is SUPPOSED to flow air by natural design. kinda like a grill intaking air from the bottom while the hot air rises out the top.But anyway something doesn't seem to be working, 147F.. those temps should be in like Texas or FL heat when outside temp is close to 100F.

Also... if I want a fan now I have to cut a hole in the side of the gable because I only have a ridge vent. Or just put a box fan in the middle of the attic facing up. But that sounds kinda stupid. sighhhhh

Maybe no cool air is being ingested via eaves or soffits so the air is just stagnant? Are they clear?
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 10:38 AM
  #24123  
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Originally Posted by MC MiYoung3269
I think running 18x10 +39 w/ 265/40's is a bit much for the stock body of the TSX.... YOLO
GG fronts lol. But might fit rear with roll/pull.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 11:53 AM
  #24124  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
ok.... so I have ridge ventilation as I have come to realize, and my amateur investigative skills point to ridge vented attics not needing attic fans (supposedly they are really good at venting hot air). I confirmed I do have continuous soffits around the entire outside of my house so there should be sufficient flow. I just got up there with a laser thermometer and today it was 84F and sunny.. I measured 147F under the roof. That seems waaaay high. I don't understand what's happening. I have about 10in R30 insulation running along the entire floor of the attic. It was measuring about 110F and the the gable was measuring around 135F. I have no trees or debris that could build up over the ridge vent, nor really anything that could block the soffits around the outside...

What gives??
Wow, that really sucks. Are you seeing a temperature difference between top and bottom? Point your laser at the low side, near the soffits, and slowly work your way up to the ridge vents, should see closer to outside air near the soffits. If you are measuring the underside of the roof, and see a consistent temp all the way down the roof, can't help you there, that's your roofing material. But if you measure something a bit inboard, joist, rafters, etc, you are seeing more of what the air is seeing.

The 110° is measured off the upper surface of the insulation?

Could be that your ridge vents aren't sized big enough, but I am no expert there. Are they completely clear and open?

A gable vent is what I was suggesting a few posts back on this topic (from a different post you made)
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:02 PM
  #24125  
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Yeah, so I THOUGHT I had two gable vents.. one over my garage and one over the bedroom in the front of the house... but when I went into the attic the gable is completely boarded up. no vents. So those vent looking things on the front of the house are just for show?? idk.. seems weird. (Maybe they didn't cut the hole, and the builders were like.. fuck it, just put the vinyl venting on the outside and no one will know.)

Im gunna go up on my roof today and see if the ridge vent is clear.. maybe when it was installed on shot to the roof it got squeezed shut? Idk if Ill be able to tell if it's ok or not. Should I be able to feel airflow through the ridge vent?

For others that I asked.. Yeah the roof was 147, the trusses/side walls were 125-135ish... and directly on the insulation it was 110F.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:08 PM
  #24126  
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Just cut a hole
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:19 PM
  #24127  
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Originally Posted by thoiboi
Just cut a hole
Thinkin bout it... but ya know.. kinda want to understand the entire thermal system before I do something rash.. ya know. Good thing I can count on 2G rambling thread to give me good advice
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #24128  
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Plastidip the roof
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:21 PM
  #24129  
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Plastidip makes everything cooler.
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:21 PM
  #24130  
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straight pipe the roof then ask if any ill effects
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 12:32 PM
  #24131  
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Originally Posted by justnspace
straight pipe the roof then ask if any ill effects

But will it blend?
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 02:32 PM
  #24132  
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Originally Posted by opboarding
I want to meet this guy.
I need to meat you again.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 11:49 AM
  #24133  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
Yeah, so I THOUGHT I had two gable vents.. one over my garage and one over the bedroom in the front of the house... but when I went into the attic the gable is completely boarded up. no vents.
I've seen several newish houses (2000+) where lots of things are just for show.

Good luck with the ridge vents.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 11:55 AM
  #24134  
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I'm a particularly big fan of the fake shutters. Especially when you can obviously see that if they were real, they'd be too small to cover the windows when closed.

It's like PepBoyz stick on vents for your car. (which is what it sounds like ssjoe has on his house)

Ultimate Ricer.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 11:58 AM
  #24135  
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Oh yeah... Looks like ssjoe probably has those shutters on his house, if his neighbor's house is any indication.

ssjoe, king of the ricers!

Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
My current garage... help me sell my TSX

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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 11:58 AM
  #24136  
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I just don't get it... it's not like vents are aesthetically pleasing to the eye.. so if you don't need them, why have them? No sense to me...
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 11:58 AM
  #24137  
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Those shutters are useless! More useless than titties on a bowling ball.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 12:01 PM
  #24138  
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I think it's that McMansion Hell website where they point out stupid shit like that. There are houses that have gables on the roof, but nothing behind them. They're like the equivalent of house roof warts.

I'm gonna put a TypeR emblem on my house now.
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Old Aug 2, 2017 | 06:40 PM
  #24139  
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Originally Posted by cu2wagon
Oh yeah... Looks like ssjoe probably has those shutters on his house, if his neighbor's house is any indication.

ssjoe, king of the ricers!
I have fake shutters lol, but the lamps actually light up
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 01:42 PM
  #24140  
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My AC problems have come to an end... Called AC guy out, and he took a look at the furnace and told me I wasn't getting nearly enough airflow (never knew, because it's been the same since I moved in). He looked at the control board and told me that when the unit was installed the settings were never adjusted for my specific house, meaning CFM was set to less than 500 as "out of the box settings". He changed the switches on the board to match my 2ton unit for max flow of 800CFM. Everything seemed great when we restarted the system, however the AC is on a time delay and the weirdest part was that it was flowing at a really high rate until the AC actually kicked on. then CFM dropped below 500 again (even though we made the necessary changes on the board). He couldn't diagnose why the flow rate was decreasing when AC was kicking on and told me my thermostat was bad, and when the signal was calling for cooling it wasn't sending the right command for fan speed. I said "thanks I'll look into it." I was super skeptical that my thermostat was "bad" seeing how this house was only built in 2009, and that the thermostat literally sits in a static position with nothing that could really cause the PCB to heat up, break solder, or have loose connections. Just didn't make sense that everything works EXCEPT the fan speed when AC turns on...... Read through the entire thermostat manual and came across "furnace setup" which indicated a few options for AC flow rate. COMFORT/EFFICIENCY/MAXIMUM. The default setting on the thermostat was set for COMFORT (which helps control humidity by flowing at a low rate)... I changed that to MAX and Im now flowing at 800 CFM and my house actually dropped to my set temperature in the middle of the day, which never happened before. It's finally fixed, I can't believe it.

It astounds me that the previous owners lived like this for 8 years...
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 02:14 PM
  #24141  
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Yay!
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 02:59 PM
  #24142  
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Bruh, the previous owner is always the dumbest dumbass to ever gasp air on this planet. Always.
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 04:42 PM
  #24143  
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Awesome! I bet it feels great to have finally figured that out. My previous owner let 4 trees die leaving my front/back yards pretty bare.

Stupid previous owners.
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 01:52 AM
  #24144  
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I guess they didn't wanna deal with morning wood
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 09:56 PM
  #24145  
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Originally Posted by ssjoeboe9
My AC problems have come to an end... Called AC guy out, and he took a look at the furnace and told me I wasn't getting nearly enough airflow (never knew, because it's been the same since I moved in). He looked at the control board and told me that when the unit was installed the settings were never adjusted for my specific house, meaning CFM was set to less than 500 as "out of the box settings". He changed the switches on the board to match my 2ton unit for max flow of 800CFM. Everything seemed great when we restarted the system, however the AC is on a time delay and the weirdest part was that it was flowing at a really high rate until the AC actually kicked on. then CFM dropped below 500 again (even though we made the necessary changes on the board). He couldn't diagnose why the flow rate was decreasing when AC was kicking on and told me my thermostat was bad, and when the signal was calling for cooling it wasn't sending the right command for fan speed. I said "thanks I'll look into it." I was super skeptical that my thermostat was "bad" seeing how this house was only built in 2009, and that the thermostat literally sits in a static position with nothing that could really cause the PCB to heat up, break solder, or have loose connections. Just didn't make sense that everything works EXCEPT the fan speed when AC turns on...... Read through the entire thermostat manual and came across "furnace setup" which indicated a few options for AC flow rate. COMFORT/EFFICIENCY/MAXIMUM. The default setting on the thermostat was set for COMFORT (which helps control humidity by flowing at a low rate)... I changed that to MAX and Im now flowing at 800 CFM and my house actually dropped to my set temperature in the middle of the day, which never happened before. It's finally fixed, I can't believe it.

It astounds me that the previous owners lived like this for 8 years...
Ignorance is bliss.


Glad it's all fixed!!!
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 10:15 PM
  #24146  
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I'm the blissful-est.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 01:31 PM
  #24147  
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Amazon Amazon

Got this guy local to me who's selling this kit. Although he's saying it'll fit 09-14, but everything I've seen online says 09-10. Are the differences really that major that it wouldn't fit? Also he doesn't want to go lower than $300 for the set, but since it only has a primer, it still needs paint. Any guesses about how much that would be for the 4 pieces?

Last edited by rawger; Aug 7, 2017 at 01:36 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 02:21 PM
  #24148  
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Sides and rear will fit, Front won't without modification. As for duraflex..... have fun with the fitment if you get it LOL
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 03:17 PM
  #24149  
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Originally Posted by MC MiYoung3269
Sides and rear will fit, Front won't without modification. As for duraflex..... have fun with the fitment if you get it LOL
Damn, is it that bad lol. I've been wanting the SE front lip and skirts, but hard to find on ebay and fuck paying full price for them.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 03:32 PM
  #24150  
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Originally Posted by rawger
https://www.amazon.com/2009-2010-Acu.../dp/B00I4ZNP6E

Got this guy local to me who's selling this kit. Although he's saying it'll fit 09-14, but everything I've seen online says 09-10. Are the differences really that major that it wouldn't fit? Also he doesn't want to go lower than $300 for the set, but since it only has a primer, it still needs paint. Any guesses about how much that would be for the 4 pieces?
if it is built like teh modulo kit, the front would not fit on 11-14 models without changing the foglights i think.

for the paint i would assume more than buying the rear and sides of a OEM site that comes pre painted. the front i'm not sure if it come painted or not when it is purchased.
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 07:36 PM
  #24151  
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It's a hit or miss with duraflex kits, some people might get a good batch and they fit flawlessly, but most of the time they fit like ass and end up looking tacky.
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 07:22 AM
  #24152  
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I learned my lesson on the front lip made out of that stuff. Shipping wrecks any chance of it fitting flush, not to mention the material flexes so much it's hard to keep the paint on it. I'd say only for black cars where you may not need to paint it, it might be worth it...
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 08:43 AM
  #24153  
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Originally Posted by rawger
Damn, is it that bad lol. I've been wanting the SE front lip and skirts, but hard to find on ebay and fuck paying full price for them.
don't do it man. honestly your car will look better without that particular kit

plus, front won't fit
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 05:22 PM
  #24154  
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What if I just got the side skirts? Do they go into the holes of the mudflaps because I have those on my car.
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 10:12 PM
  #24155  
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Originally Posted by rawger
What if I just got the side skirts? Do they go into the holes of the mudflaps because I have those on my car.
yeah you can't run the front splash guards with the skirts. same holes for mounting the front of the skirts
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 10:26 PM
  #24156  
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TSX discontinued by acra, better buy modulo kit before they all disappear.
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 10:47 PM
  #24157  
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Wait. Whut? TSX discontinued?

Shit.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 06:19 AM
  #24158  
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Wait, Whitney Houston is dead!?
next you're gonna tell me The King of Pop, Michael Jackson croaked too, right?
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 07:12 AM
  #24159  
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Today is the worst day.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 07:29 AM
  #24160  
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pero why?
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