RPM dipping normal or probelm?
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RPM dipping normal or probelm?
okay.. so ever since i got my tl.. i've noticed that whenever i am driving slow in traffic, tap the pedal to move up a bit, let go, and all of a sudden, my rpm will drop anywhere from 2.5k rpm - 4k back down to idle (800) once i step on the brakes. no cel but i thought it was weird.. any input?
i'll try and get a video for you guys
i'll try and get a video for you guys
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From: SoCal SGV 626
here's a vid of the ticking/clicking:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUyTDzRGyu0
the ticking/clicking only happens when i barely give it a bit of gas and i can sometimes hear it while i am accelerating up to speed..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUyTDzRGyu0
the ticking/clicking only happens when i barely give it a bit of gas and i can sometimes hear it while i am accelerating up to speed..
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here's a video of the rpm dipping.. some of you guys might think its normal but it doesnt feel normal to me.. it's like everytime i get on the gas and let go for a bit and brake.. feels like im motor braking..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ4ZlCIAUh0
watch at 0:05, 0:15, and 0:25
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ4ZlCIAUh0
watch at 0:05, 0:15, and 0:25
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From: SoCal SGV 626
01tl4tl.. ? anyone? btw.. i replaced the purge control solenoid valve because it was ticking like mad crazy.. but it still didnt solve the problem in the first vid.
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start with inspecting the throttle cable mechanism for crud and lube all
rpm prob: clean IACv fully- remove the TB and remove the entire rod assembly from TB
NO its not normal operation to be anything but smooth and stable
no speakers here,, so no advice on ticking
rpm prob: clean IACv fully- remove the TB and remove the entire rod assembly from TB
NO its not normal operation to be anything but smooth and stable
no speakers here,, so no advice on ticking
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From: SoCal SGV 626
i'll check my iacv today.. as for that ticking sound, i know for sure it's not normal. i don't hear it on any of my friend's tl-s' car. pretty sure this plays a part on why im getting shitty mpg.
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I have a 2005 TL 5AT and the rpm dips the same way while changing gears....i drive in the sport shifter mode all the time and when i step on it and let go of the gas fractionally to change gears (sometimes) my rpm will dip down to 800ish and go back up....i thought that was normal....
about the ticking noise....i have the same....i think its from the valve....but recently i took into firestone (for an alignment) and my buddy over there just tugged on the belt tensioner back a little bit and the noise was gone for couple weeks and it just started getting back again....
about the ticking noise....i have the same....i think its from the valve....but recently i took into firestone (for an alignment) and my buddy over there just tugged on the belt tensioner back a little bit and the noise was gone for couple weeks and it just started getting back again....
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well i had gotten my 105K servicing and I told them not to replace the tensioner....they came back and said you need a new one....i paid them $110 for a new tensioner (i know...i had supplied all the other parts)....and still the noise persists....so either they didnt install it right or the didnt replace the tensioner....
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From: SoCal SGV 626
i would also like to mention that the sound seems like it's coming from the timing belt area .. more towards the passenger side so i guess you guys are pretty much correct. funny thing is that i've NEVER seen anyone with this problem.
I had a ticking noise when I first bought my car. Does it happen when the revs are around 1-1.5k (somewhere around there). If it does, then it is the belt tensioner. And it happens in any gear P,R,N,D.
go to harbor freight tools or a parts store and buy a mechanics stethascope $4-10
all this wondering will end once you take a listen to the various moving parts- bearings for ac belt tensioner etc
that tensioner is not part of the 105 and is a common wearout, mine went at 80
Be glad they insisted on the master pulley for timing belt- thats an engine killer
valves just compare to each other for sound, you can tell whats not right
all this wondering will end once you take a listen to the various moving parts- bearings for ac belt tensioner etc
that tensioner is not part of the 105 and is a common wearout, mine went at 80
Be glad they insisted on the master pulley for timing belt- thats an engine killer
valves just compare to each other for sound, you can tell whats not right
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From: SoCal SGV 626
so i should just purchase this part and install it myself ? how hard is the installation ?
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last question.. which specific tensioner do i need to replace? there's a tensioner for the timing belt, serpentine / alternator belt, and auto..
I don't know exactly which belt tensioner it was, but I think it was the serpentine/alternator belt tensioner. I went to the mechanic. He took a stethoscope and listened which I pressed on the gas. I left my car there. He went to the dealer got the part and did it for me. I think if you know how to change the belts on your car, you should be able to change the tensioner too. They charged me $180 for the job (parts and labor).
It was very annoying. I had to jack rabbit start the car every time I was moving just so I wouldn't hear that annoying sound. To me, it sounded like a ratchet when its turning. Its pretty embarrassing.
It was very annoying. I had to jack rabbit start the car every time I was moving just so I wouldn't hear that annoying sound. To me, it sounded like a ratchet when its turning. Its pretty embarrassing.
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From: Kansas City, MO
what i meant it after I shift if i lift my foot off the gas to coast....
or if am doing 30 in 3rd gear and i wanna coast i let of the gas and shift to 4th....the rpm dips to 600-700 odd and stays at 800-900...just below 1K as I coast....
Sorry for the misleading info....and thanks on the tip bro
or if am doing 30 in 3rd gear and i wanna coast i let of the gas and shift to 4th....the rpm dips to 600-700 odd and stays at 800-900...just below 1K as I coast....
Sorry for the misleading info....and thanks on the tip bro
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