shaking under the pedals and also in steering at 30-35mph and then again at 60-65mph. I've already had the wheels aligned, wheel balance, new tires. This was very mild at first only at the 60mph range and very light. Then it got worse, I contacted a mechanic awhile back mofo didn't feel like troubleshooting it. Instead he told me wait til it gets worse then he'll be able to figure it out. This really pissed me off to the point that I really don't wanna bring it to him anymore. I'm thinking its the axle, what do you guys think? Anyone change an axle before with hand tools because I don't have air tools.

Thanks in advance.

 

could be the inner cv joints
go to an alignment shop and ask for a real inspection and diagnosis
you may have shaken other parts loose by now or could have ball joint or bushing issues

dont ever talk to the last guy again! sure when the wheel falls off its easy to diagnose !

 

if near MrHeelToe have him take care of it

hand tools- are they top quality and no sweat using a breaker bar on the ratchet- sockets will take the load?

 

I'd guess inner CV joints. I had one go out on my TL and replacing it got rid of the minor vibration it had.

 

He's referring to removing the big axle nuts. You will likely want to rent a kit from your local parts store, which has big sockets for removing the axle nuts. The sockets are normally bigger than typical 3/8" drive (1/2" or 3/4"), so you will need an appropriate breaker bar (and cheater pipe) or high-quality ratchet. These nuts require a lot of torque to loosen.

 

that big nut is 132 foot pounds-(you confirm spec) so a big strong breaker bar/slide over extension pipe is needed to gain the leverage needed, and a 1/2 or 3/4 drive socket

see diy section on axle replacement- or pay 1 hour to local shop to do in 20 minutes
NAPA has quality NEW axles, not rebuilt- used to be $75 so figure still under 100

 

check your brakes if you brake pads are worn or your rotors could be warped from alot of miles or just excessive brakeing. as for changeing the axles you will probably need a 32mm for the axle bolt, pry bars help alot. rubber malot you have to take off the calipar and rotor to take out the axle. usually if the axle is bad it probably clicks while turning or clunks sometimes they would sound like a train on the tracks. you can jack your car up turn the wheels and look at the boots. check and see if there is any play in the wheel up or down and side to side. see if its soild or wobbles. wobble wobble do shake it is what juvi told the chicken heads

 

has it snowed at all cuz same shit happened to my tsx until i went to the car wash and there was ice caked on all behind my rotor and under my body

 

nope no ice here, I just ended up paying some other mechanic to replace the cv joints. Thanks for the advice guys. It no longer shakes at 60 mph but, I may need a wheel balancing now. The vibration from bad cv joints at high speeds may have knocked off some of the weights.

 

those must be crummy weights! were they stick on or pound on type?

 

they're pound on ones, but they must have not pound them in hard enough. the vibrating is starting to come back again, I hope its as simple as a tire balancing. Its vibrating but not as bad as before. starting to think I just have bad luck.

 

How old are your tires? They could be out-of-round, and no balancing will fix that.

 

you are on the right track with bad cv can throw the tire balance off-throw a weight

when tires or rims are suspect- find a place with the `Hunter Road Force' balancer
call a few tire shops- they are common at places that do large rims or performance stuff

its high tech and can figure out if there is any internal problem with tire and what to do about it
on 4 tires it will even figure out where to install each tire so they work in harmony

 

tires are about a month old, I took it to the tire shop today. the tires were balanced so they didn't charge me to check it, since I go to them all the time. they told me that my motor mounts were bad. strange that my tire shop out of all places told me that I didn't believe him until I popped open the hold and let him rev it a little. The engine seem to move more than usual, and I noticed that it leaned towards the front, and the front mount went inward as the gas pedal was being pressed. I haven't changed the motor mount since the tranny blew out awhile ago, so I'll try to change it out myself. Any suggestions on getting an OEM mount or aftermarket?

 

get OEM from one of our sponsor dealers, maybe 100-120 dollars
retail is 120-150
you didnt replace it with the trans?- thats often when its found bad by the acura tech who knows to look for oil traces on it

broken one with the vac booster, will mess up engine running
also ck pass side mount- when it takes load for front it fails soon after

diy section will walk you thru the replacement

 

thanks, will do. I know the front one hasn't been replaced since around 65k miles the side mount was just replaced last year when I had my timing belt, water pump, and belts replaced.

 

based on the first one, I expect 65 out of my replaced front mount--hopefully it and the trans go that long!!!

if its bad as you say- its causing more problems than you can imagine,, and you will be very happy with the fix
easy to forget how smooth the TL really is when all parts working!

 

just finished the install, the old mount looked like it was in bad shape.

 

just a bit compressed!!

 

it seemed to have fixed the issue at first. then it started to happen again today. I went back in there and re-torqued the bolts to 40 lbs. the middle bolt on the bracket seem not want to torque, not sure what happened maybe the threads were stripped from too much vibration?