Long story short, driving in the worst storm ever...hit a massive puddle going about 35-40mph. My car stalled (or just about), hitting gas didn't even move RPMs. Regained power and got to my destination. On the way home the car was idling very rough and when I gassed it a little bit most warning lights came on (VSA, CEL, Yellow Triangle).

I have an AEM Cold Air Intake, the filter is completely saturated. I'm pretty sure it was submerged from being so low to the ground.

I'm probably going tomorrow to get the CEL code checked, but I have a few questions:

1) Is it safe to drive around town (i.e. not going to damage anything else)?
2) What can I do in the meantime to help with the issue?

Sidenote: I hate Florida.

 

Ouch- sorry to hear that. Sucking up water into the engine can be catastrophic. Water doesn't compress so if it gets into a cylinder it can really do damage. I wouldn't run it but any engine damage may already be done. Or it could be hopefully be something else. Maybe a coil pack or two got wet and is shorted out. I would get the codes read first

 

remove the filter and ck for water up the tube- ck all the way to TB throat

do not drive yet- WD40 or CRC contact cleaner to disburse water from the numerous connections and sensors located under or low on the water table~
then reset ecu via the CLOCK fuse removal for 1 minute (not for you- for the noobs)
that clears codes and forces a full system self test and relearn

I would guess your wheel speed sensors took a good hit- reasonable place to start the search and dry under the car

 

I have been driving it today. Not very long, but I had to get to work.
I will most likely not be taking it anywhere tomorrow, but I might need to go get an OBDII scanner to check codes without driving my car to Advance Auto Parts.

 

Also, do you think it's something I should inform my insurance about if a lot of damage has been done? I have read that these things are sometimes covered.

 

remove intake manifold
dc battery
and crank it by hand

at least... that's what I think you're supposed to do to pump the water out.
Also keep the manifold off so the motor can dry out

 

Update...

Took the CAI pipe off.
The filter is heavily saturated and the inside of the pipe still has moisture.
good news is the inside of the TCS control valve is dry. The car seems to run a lot better without the CAI attached.

Removed Clock fuse for 1 minute and started car again. Starting to sound better, idle better, and rev better. CEL is off (as expected with fuse removal), but the VSA and yellow triangle are still lit up and pressing the VSA button does nothing. Any ideas on that?

 

Do you not have fender liners?

 

NO............

IF you do manage to suck water in the motor. If it doesnt blow it at that point you NEED to NOT try to start or run the engine. VERY first thing you should do is pull all the spark plugs out. THEN crank the motor. If there is any water in the engine having the plugs out will allow you to disperse water because water doesnt compress.

 

Disconnect the battery and Dry the filter out.

Then take some WD40 and disconnect your wheel speed sensors (and any other sensor that you can see and spray the connector and let it dry. Once dry, get some dielectric grease and put a little in each connector.

 

Where are the wheel speed sensors located?

I took off the TCS sensor and put it back on. I'm not sure if there is an "incorrect" way of attaching it or if that has anything to do with the VSA light.

 

Also I think I need to change my oil now and filter.

 

Had this happen in my '84 VW Jetta GLI many years ago. The car wouldn't even crank (thankfully, in hindsight). Removed the plugs, cranked it over and pumped out all the water in the cylinders. Changed the oil and the car ran for another 100k or so before I finally gave it up.

 

Update...

After changing the oil and drying all the way up the intake and filter I turned the car on and idling was back to normal. No unusual noises (**fingers crossed**).

I also took off the TCS sensor and placed it back on properly and the VSA and !Triangle light is off.

No more CEL. Took the car for a drive and she is sounding pretty good. I'll keep the thread updated.

 

What is that draining?

 

Motor Oil.

 

Good to hear it's running well again. A few years ago we had a big flood, and the RDX was driven through about a foot of water, it did fine... As for the nice RSX we were following, however, I don't know...

 

Sometimes ya get lucky.....but cars don't really like to drink water. Try to avoid if at all possible !!!

 

That oil looks contaminated, I would keep a watch on the dipstick.

 

Yea. I'll keep an eye out and maybe change oil again around 3,000 miles or maybe sooner. Let this fresh filter do some work first.

 

seafoam the oil and change

ck/clean PCV and remove top manifold cover- as if starting the EGR/intake manifold removal job-
a lot of old oil sits up there- wipe out contaminated stuff

 

I sea foamed yesterday and put new synthetic in. If I knew I would be changing it again so soon I would have bought conventional. How long should I wait before doing another oil change?

Also...it was a while ago when I cleaned my intake manifold. What torque is the manifold cover bolts?

 

Yeah, I would have put some cheap oil in drove for a bit and drained again. That oil that was draining, was it really as milk chocolaty as it looks in the picture? It doesn't take much water in the oil to turn it off color but it also doesn't take much water in the oil to destroy bearings

 

Yea. My phone had the flash on, but it was maybe just a little darker than that. I'll keep an eye on it for the next few hundred miles. Should I still change the oil again soon even if it shows no signs of moisture like before?

Gonna check under my intake manifold cover like suggested. Do I need to get a new gasket before taking that off or is that the reusable one?

 

I am thinking do as 01tl401 mentioned and put sea foam in the oil and do a change again. I know it sucks to have to do it again but ~$30 for another oil and filter change would at least give some piece of mind.
The intake cover gasket is reusable

 

how does the new oil look on the dipstick?

that area above intake manifold that traps oil really needs a wipe out before much driving- to keep it out of the general flow

Once its clean/dry as you can, then driving will actually displace the remaining moisture- 30 minutes plus of freeway speeds will really help dry the exhaust parts, and dry out all of the cars operating fluids

Note for those that usually drive a few miles- less than 15 minute trips, should hit the freeway for 30 minutes once a month,
In the old days we called this blowing out the carbon- in moms car
but in reality the operating heat dries out atmospheric moisture absorbed by oils- called hygroscopic action
Left in there = bad news
See also brake fluid flush!

torque spec? using desired tool try to gently tighten nut-without actually moving it
feel the resistance? you have just tuned your muscle memory to that bolts spec- Retighten to that same amount of force required and it should be near perfect
The human body and mind are amazing tools when put to use!

 

Note for those wondering about pic of oil draining-
that car is equipped with a quick drain valve = you release its safety lock- 1/4 turn the lever and out comes the oil. No fuss no muss
1/4 turn closed and you are done draining the oil = never mess with drain plug threads or dropping in pan of hot oil issues again

JR-88, which brand valve is that? the original fujimoto or the newer imitator?

 

Fujimoto. I can never change oil the old way again. Whats the other brand?

 

So yesterday I took the manifold cover off and really soaked up all the contaminated oil up from there as best as I could. Most all of it is gone now.

The oil on the dipstick looks non existent, because of how clean it is. 5w-20 is so thin

I'll just keep an eye on everything.

 

you will be fine- now that the hidden stuff is gone from above manifold
ck the PCV- it might have gotten some extra crud thrown at it

plan on watching the dipstick, maybe throw a new oil filter on it soon/now
and change the oil and filter a bit early

Now you and future readers know- any water intrusion like that is reason to call the tow truck!

Op got off easy- this easily could have been a catastrophic failure= when water hits the combustion chamber and doesn't compress at the rate fuel and air do = raise you compression from 9 or 11 to 1, to approx. 25-50 to 1, far past what the cylinder heads and gasket- cylinder liners, rod and crank bearings etc were ever designed for-
like having a massive blower explosion on the dragster ka BOOM

 

I think the design of the intake manifold is what may have saved the op.

 

That's an interesting idea. How do you think that?

 

lets leave it at- Those with CAI down low in front and with no protection for engine via fender liner panels = avoid the deep water crossings
if it happens get the car towed home-
pull the spark plugs and blow out potential water that way = without risking major engine malady

 

Which I still have...so just avoid at all costs.

 

some of us may have left the lower engine bay panels off for various reasons
and today the mother of all recent rains is pounding outside- with the wife at the wheel
uh-oh