jayunsplanet

iTrader: (1)

1. Factory brakes
2. Drivers side rear only
3. High pitch squealing/squeaking between 25-40mph going straight
4. Gets louder/faster when turning LEFT
   1. Quieter when turning RIGHT. (Weight transfer?)
5. Goes away when I apply enough braking force to slow the car down
6. Going on at least a month now

(Side note -- About 3 months ago the drivers side rear pad had come off the caliber a bit and produced a constant high pitched metal-on-metal sound. I drove right to my mechanics shop and they replaced the pads and resurfaced the rotors.)

Ideas, suggestions, help?

Thanks.

fsttyms1

Sounds like a pad issue. Is the squealer touching the rotor? were the pads installed with anti squeal or brake caliper grease? Is the caliper hanging up causing the pad to constantly wear on the rotor? all things you need to check.

01tl4tl

Hmmmm- rear pad had come off the caliper a bit.....maybe realllly low pad thickness...
I am guessing- the OP drove it with the rears totally gone~!
Can you guess what the fronts looked like after doing all the work to stop the car- for an extended period of time

While the shop should have checked the fronts- you can never trust anyone to do what you want- Have the fronts checked immediatly

jayunsplanet

iTrader: (1)

^I'm not really sure what you're saying...
I didn't wear the original pad down. They were all fine. It came off the rotor. I blame it on ANOTHER shop (JSI Automotive, for the record -- horrible place) that I had taken my car to for some work the day before this pad incident a few months ago... during that work, they adjusted my coilovers to get a proper alignment, even though I didn't want them to. (Long story -- but they also butchered the fck out of my collars by not using the proper Tein wrenches) The shop sucked. I think they hit, loosened, damaged something on the brakes to make the pad come off -- I'm just speculating.

Anyway, that brings us to now. Same wheel. Someone on my forum suggested that the wear indicator might have bent and could be hitting/rubbing against another metal surface.. so when I brake, the indicator straightens out and stops squealing.

01tl4tl

easy enough to tell- pull the wheel and caliper off
Check the inner brake pad- there is the metal arm extending towards the rotor

Also look at the backing plate side of the pad, See those tabs/bumps 1/4", that extend up- one holding the squeeler tab on, one opposite end fron it that does nothing
Now- IS THERE a 3rd- middle tab,, at the outer edge of the back?
It will have a shiny wear mark against that middle tab!
Turns out many brands are using a backing plate for the rsx, which uses that tabfor most acura
On TL CL TSX the tab hits the brake caliper piston and cocks the pad at a severe angle to the rotor- you get about 50 percent contact across the surface when you apply the brakes, its not sitting flat and then it gets pushed even more under brakling pressures- not good.
Use a bench grinder- grinding wheel- dremel- cut the offending tab OFF and file it flush so it doesnt damage the caliper piston edge- you need FLAT and smooth when done

Thats the only thing I can imagine on a rear brake pad jumping free~ once the caliper is on and the bolts tightened- pump the pedal a few times to push fluid back into the calipers and be ready, now the pads are about 1 MM from the rotors- pretty hard for it to fall out or jump out.
If they have the extra tab- that would make it funky and not tighten up right...happened to many here including me, with different brands of pads.
Just something for everyone to check on their replacement rear pads- no 3rd tab!!!

BlackMambaTL7

I am having the exact issue right now. I just had the pads replaced. The squeal begins to occur after about 10 minutes of driving though.. My pads were not knocked off but I definitely have the same symptoms you describe. Mr. Tire is offering a "free brake check" so I'll see if the squealer is bent and hitting the rotor.

jayunsplanet

iTrader: (1)

Yup, same here!

jayunsplanet

iTrader: (1)

Frozen brake caliper assembly. Wasn't releasing fully. Replaced the caliper, greased the caliper slides, new pad, new fluid... so far so good.

01tl4tl

that seems to happen to a lot of TLs, If you dont keep up with the brake fluid change every year, you lose a caliper
Its always smart to replace both sides when one goes bad!
How did the fluid look on the other calipers?
Any signs of crud-rust type material? or just really ugly fluid?

This is one reason its good to flush the brake fluid BEFORE working on them-
when there is crud in the caliper- it gets backwashed when you push the piston into the caliper, then micro sized rust particles cut the small o-ring that is the pistons seal- to make the thing work~ not long after- stuck caliper
google or wiki hygroscopic for details on oils abilty to suck moisture into itself

totaledTL

Every year? That seems a bit much but I suppose it never hurts.

PiZauL

iTrader: (1)

Where did you go to get the work done? And how much was it?

jayunsplanet

iTrader: (1)

Same thing on drivers side rear -- but worse.
Replaced.

I'm thinking it might have something to do with the lowering affecting the geometry of the brake lines -- maybe not getting the right amount of fluid fast enough since the lines are in a different position than they were designed for. Just a thought.

totaledTL

That one you already replaced right? So the pass. side went bad too?

jayunsplanet

iTrader: (1)

Correct.

Rotors seem to be a little warped too. (Shaking when braking from ~50mph.) I have to check if they actually resurfaced the rear rotor that had the seized caliper. It's so annoying. I've asked the shop the past 2 times I've taken it in, to check all the rotors. Is there enough depth to safely resurface? They say yes and resurface. I just want new rotors, preferably something more grippy... and SS lines. The brakes have such a un-attentive response/feel to them. But that's beside the point of this thread. Just a quick rant.