cause my fan not to run when the key is on "on" or running but will allow fan to come one when the key is in "acc" or off?

my fan does not come on when driving therefore making my engine somewhat aircooled in a sense that i need to keep moving or i will start to overheat after a few minutes idling, or in traffic or at a train etc etc...

also fan stays on a couple minutes after i cut the car off and its been running a while.

I know theres one switch on the radiator and one on the head but does anyone know which one is probably bad?

 

anybody?

 

check your fuses and relays first

 

I say check ur fan first to make sure its working

 

the fan works great it just wont cut on unless the car is off. Like its not getting the signal to turn on when the key is on (power to blower, radio, windows) or actually running. I dont see how it could be a fuse or relay if that's the case, or could I be wrong?

thanks for some feedback! keep it coming!

 

you need the fan temp sensor that goes in the lower right corner of rad
any parts store will have one

do a system burp after install,,to make sure no air is messing with you

coolant level is good- not losing any?
rad cap good?

 

Had some cooling issues about 8 months ago, turned out to be the cap. System could run 100mph for 2 hours and never heat up. Sit at a red light a little too long on a hot day, starts to heat up. The fan literally doesn't kick on unless the car is cut off. Its annoying.

But it should definitely be the one on the radiator? I work at a very comprehensive parts store and I have to order one so maybe they're not as common just in my area. South Carolina is all about GM and Fords

 

99.999% chance thats your problem,,`fan sensor A` located in lower right rear corner of rad for your year

pretty common failure--especially when combined with rad cap issues

Flushed your coolant? do you run Redline water wetter for increased cooling?
100mph for hours tends to make things hot!

all that airflow thru rad kept it cool, once stopped and deprived of ram air effect
and no rad fan pulling air thru = instant temp increase
If a/c on, its doubling the heat coming at the rad!!

 

Yes, that is exactly whats happening. Thanks for the tip on which switch to change...

does this appear to be the switch?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMP-STANDARD...#ht_1213wt_931

 

ck out our sponsoring vendor/dealers--they cut a 30% price break on most things
and will know for sure which part to sell you

compare price, anyone have recent oe/ziner price?

 

Yeah I will browse our vendors but I doubt anyone will beat my employee discount from work! Haha 39 bucks isn't bad! I get a one year warranty and know who the manufacturer is... I'm curious to know how much my dealership wants for it though? I'm sure double my price atleast...

 

Well, paid 70 bucks for the Honda OEM switch and got bathed in luke-warm coolant and broke off another stupid plastic splash pan retainer and.....

It didnt fix my issue

So... any other suggestions? I replaced the coolant temp sensor about a year ago, but it shouldn't be that anyway...

Car begins to over heat after sitting for more than sometimes 45 seconds on a hot day after driving for a while or high speeds.both radiator fans blow on low-mid speed. But the driver side fan kicks on super-speed when the car is off if its been running for 15-20 mins or more. but immediately stops when you turn the key on or crank up...

Its really frustrating having anxiety at long red lights, or having to go inside instead of use the drive-through haha, or the very worst... traffic.

Need some suggestions!!

 

And Im beginning to wonder IF i changed the right switch? Mine was on the bottom of the radiator towards the center on the engine side of the radiator... switches matched exactly.

 

i have the same issue with my rl....lately ive been burning up in my car maaan...imma have to check for my fuses and sensor as well