Hey guys,

Looking for help! So tried using the cigarette power socket for plugging in a usb iphone car charger and realized both front and console 120v acc sockets have stopped working. First thing I thought to do was to replace the fuses. Went in an bought the 15A low profile micro fuses that go in both the driver side and passenger side fuse boxes and to my surprise they both worked... for literally 15 seconds then stopped working again!

The car is a 12 tech elite pkg and I do still have Acura extended warranty on it til Aug 2019 - called the dealership and they stated diagnostic isn't included and it would be 139.99+ tax AND that the issue may not be covered under warranty.. what the hell!

Anyone have any idea what the issue could be and how I could get it fixed? Will try to go at this myself instead of paying 150 bucks for them to say its not covered...

Thanks guys!!

 

Check and make sure there's nothing in the outlet causing a short (something fell in or broke off into it). Try another car charger and see if it blows the fuse again.

 

It's a fuse. If you have an Acura Plus warranty, the should replace it for free. They should NOT charge you for it. They replaced my fuses for free. I had a spell of blown fuses caused by my AC Pump for the car I bought a new pump that uses an electric plug instead. I would maybe change the USB plug as well.

I suspect you blown both of them when you changed your USB charged from one AC to the AC port. I did the same thing when using my AC pump.

 

If all of the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the
No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
else-wise
Check fuse Blown No. 16 (15 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.
page 2304 in repair manual
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-...manual-899572/

 

Hey all!

Thanks for all the suggestions. Just a small update: I had changed the 2 fuses (#23 on driver's side and #16 on passenger side) and have visually noted that they were blown again. This leads me to believe it is a faulty charger. The one I was using is a 2.4 Amp / 12 Watt Belkin micro USB charger. What concerns me is that the charger is brand new. Are the specs on this charger not compatible with our cars thus blowing the fuses?? I will buy another charger and try that out, if that doesn't work then I know it is NOT a fuse problem and NOT a charger problem.

Quesitons:

- What ACC Socket charger are you using? Would like to buy one confirmed to be working for our cars hahah
- As an aside, upon pulling the driver's side fuse I noticed that #17 (7.5A) was empty.. can anyone confirm if its supposed to be?

Thanks for the help!!

 

thread bump...

My front accessory outlet isn't working. Replaced the 15A fuse and it still is not working. The center/ rear console one (under the armrest) is working meaning the 7.5A fuse is OK. I tried replacing the relay for the "accessory power socket" (top row, middle relay) in the driver side fusebox and also the single relay by the accelerator/brake pedal with no luck.

I think it might be the outlet but not 100% sure, any suggestions before I buy a new outlet for the front?

@altair47 I could use your help as I've been using the outlet to help power an oxygen machine (106 watts) for a family member on long trips to the hospital so now I'm moving to the center console one...

Only thing I haven't been able to check is the ground point that's behind the radio per the manual since I didn't have enough time to remove the radio today.

EDIT: forgot to include I get 12V at the center of the outlet with a multimeter connected to ground. Nothing when I touch the 12V center to the walls that should be ground. I'll see if I can jerry rig a ground/negative to somewhere else and see if it works.

 

These components operate off different fuses and relays (they even use different fuse blocks), but they share a common ground connection at the output.



Provided that a real 12 volts is present (sometimes spurious 12-volt signals occur that vanish under the slightest load; therefore, it is generally advisable to use a test light), remove the outlet and check the quality of the terminals.
The outlet itself is so primitive that there is nothing to break.

 

Please see my answers and questions in bold! I greatly appreciate your help! I have a US Model 3.5 FWD with keyless entry/smart key.

Thank you again @altair47 , I owe you a beer at a minimum once I can get this fixed! Seriously PM me!

 

An LED test light is obviously superior to a multimeter—especially if it can shine brightly. However, a reading of 20 kilohms suggests either "green crusties" or a broken wire where makes contact with the ground via corrosion.
You don't need to check the relay if there is 12 volts.
I'm trying to find the G403 location, but so far without success.
Written on the behind middle of dash.
Have you tried pulling the ground wire?

 

So the LED Test light is a cheap one, it read 14V with the car on, and it only draws like 2 mA so it's not putting a load on the circuit.

I didn't pull on the ground wire since it's so short and I didn't want to end up with a lost wire and have to disassemble the whole console... but I was able to test the accessory power outlet in the center console/armrest area and worked at 106 watts to charge the machine while they were on the home oxygen machine. Since they share G403 I wonder if it's an issue with the power side (due to the cheap Test Light) or if it's an issue with the ground side.

I'm going to see if anyone sells a halogen lighted one locally to try and figure this out. I'm going to run out to the car and see if the negative side reads ground with the probe attached to power.

I found it in the manual for 09-10 - REF 31:

 

Tried the test light on the walls of the outlet and got nada with it powered on via battery power supply. I tried the combo on the door hinge bolt that was unpainted and it lit up 12.0V to 12.2V.

I think it's either the socket (been using it for a dash cam for many years) or the negative wire/ground side. I have a box with some connectors to try and see if I can probe the negative/ground side better to make sure of the resistance on the harness to eliminate that side which will only leave the outlet as a possibility... Fingers crossed it's the outlet and not the negative/ground part of the harness since I'm lazy and don't want to take the dash apart.

 

Great diagram—I'll save it for myself, since Mitchell turned out to be useless here.

 

Anytime! That's from the PDF manual that's floating around.

Regarding further diagnostics, this is my plan, please let me know if you suggest anything else @altair47 :

1. Recheck the ground wire/negative resistance/continunity with the car on and off to avoid false readings.

2. Apparently no one sells a halogen test light around here so I"m going to have to make something up like what this video shows below to put a load on the 12V inner portion of the plug or the harness pin 1 to verify the power is good.


3. Take radio and console out and check G403 and the wire that goes from the negative/ground side of the outlet

4. If that does not give any results, I think I need to try a new ground wire from the outlet to a new ground point

5. If the above don't work, maybe it's literally a bad outlet and I have to get one one from auto recycler or from online or local dealer.

 

Your strategy is correct. The Lisle 28400 draws 0.1 amps—enough to detect a phantom voltage.
$20 on eBay

 

Test light worked in the center so it was getting power, meaning the ground side had an issue (socket or wiring).

I got some thinner probes and rechecked the plug and found that it it had continuity and the resistance was very low on the ground side (no need to take out radio to check ground). My thicker probes probaby did not make good contact hence the higher reading that I got before on the harness for the 12V pllug.

This narrowed it down to the socket itself, it must have gotten damaged charging/powering the portable oxygen at 106 watts for almost 2.5 hrs. Swapped out the outlet with another one and it works great!

I'm going to pick up a portable battery for it instead for long journeys.

Thanks@altair47 for your help again! If you are ever in Central FL let me know, I'll do my best to get you a beer or something!

 

I'm glad I could be of help. It turns out the original outlet isn't designed to handle the 120-watt load specified by the manufacturer. Thanks for the invitation—I haven't been to Florida in about five years.