I've had my Function & Forms for a little while now and they have always been extremely stiff and you usually hear every bump and dip like normal. But as of recently I have been noticing an extra "clunk" after the usual noise.

It happens more when I hip a bump with my front drivers side tire and I can almost feel it in the wheel too. I did a quick check of my upper ball joints (SPC Performance) and they seem to be solid as a rock still. Anything else I should check?

My dad told me I should check the Control Arms and he thinks it could also be bearings. What do you guys think? What methods should I try to diagnose the extra "clunk".

Thanks!

 

control arms are hitting the strut tower

 

Should I just replace the upper control arms then?

 

Also, are there any good aftermarket control arms?

 

no, it means something is not installed right--new arms wont change that!

do ck sway bar end links, control arm upper and lower bushings and anything else connected in that area
Look for shiny metal where parts are rubbing together

I had a cars sway bar be mounted slightly offset from correct- where in just the right conditions it hit the control arm--the giveaway? shiny metal in a small area!!

Have an alignment shop put in on the lift and inspect.. if you are not sure how to

 

It's easy to check everything when you have a lift! lol

I might have to do that. I installed the coilovers a while ago and had it aligned. Do you think something might be just "giving out" and it's rubbing something somewhere? I'll look for this elusive shiny metal you speak of

 

a set of ramps works too

 

Ok, I checked for any signs of something rubbing and I couldn't really find anything. I didn't have time to take the tires off, but here are some pictures of what everything looked like. I did notice the lower ball joint driver's side looked like it may have been leaking out some lube. It was hardened and crusted on the inside of my rim.

Driver's Side - Upper Ball Joint and Control arm


Driver's Side - Lower Ball Joint possibly leaking


Driver's Side


Driver's Side - Upper Ball Joint and Control arm


Passenger's Side - Upper Ball Joint and Control arm


Passenger's Side - Lower Ball Joint, much cleaner


Passenger's Side

 

How many miles are on those outer lower control arm bushings? If over 100K, it might be prudent to replace those.

 

Just to replace the whole lower control arm?

As far as I'm concerned they have 127k on them

 

I got a clunk when the mount point for the sway bar actually broke. Had to get it rewelded. check them out

 

The reason I asked about the miles is because of the slight dimpling noted at the bottom of the outer bushing(s). I replaced my OEMs at about 110K or so, on my CL-S6, with Moogs and nine months later they split. Then I went back to OEMs and figured I would try to get another 110K before I had to dick with them again.

If you replaced the whole LCA's, you would kill two birds with one stone, especially if they have 127K on the clock. Inner and outer bushings.

Or, if you are industrious, one could just remove the LCA, purchase new bushing(s) and replace them DIY or have a local machine shop press them.

 

Yea, I would just replace the whole thing if I did it. The OEM ones are pretty expensive, about $137 is the best price I can find. I did find some aftermarket like-OEM ones on eBay for around $50 each. Anything known about those?

 

lol, you think that's bad, try having to replace the knuckle assembly(s) because the ball joints from the factory have the letter (B) stamped on them per Acura Service Bulletin 06-015; dated June 21, 2006.

My friends said to just have the old OEMs pressed out and to press in some new Moogs. The problem (not really a problem hehe:wink: ) I have is the added weight of the S/C'er attached up front. Having a BJ fail while doing 75mph on I95 after going over an overpass with uneven pavement is not something I want to experience in my lifetime. So, I bought new knuckles and moved on.

I would bet they are China knockoffs, no thanks.

Here's a suggestion. You are in Orlando. Go to First-Class Automotive; 3608 East Colonial Drive (407)228-2849. Talk to Nabil, he does all aspects of Acura repair. He is known for his work on NSXs on NSX Prime.com. He may be able to narrow down your 'clunk' and save you potential time/money in resolving the issue.

Good Luck!

 

So sorry to hear about your S/C'r problem, haha. I've been trying to get that shop's name for a while now. Do you think he can remove my mid-muffler also? I was going to have that done anyway from there, and maybe he can look into this current problem for me as well. Thanks Again!

also: Is this the correct bushing if that is the case? http://www.jegs.com/i/Moog/719/K9761/10002/-1

 

It's worth a try. When I was in the area, they did my alignments at the time I worked on my LCA bushings.

Read the thread below before opting for Moogs:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-tires-wheels-suspension-54/simple-ball-joint-separation-740248/

If you must go with Moog, check out RockAuto.com. They have better prices.

 

Hey man check the top of your ball joint to see if is hitting the chassi

 

Just like swllen cu said, now 99TLAcura, now I'll join in...... the adjustable ball joints cause the upper control to ride an inch or more higher than it normally would. It almost looks like it's hitting in your photos. My eibach set up sat higher than yours is, and they hit all the time. Look right above the outer end of the control arm and you'll see where it's been hitting.

 

Which photo in particular are you talking about? Drivers side or passenger?