Simple Ball Joint Separation
#1
Suzuka Master
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Simple Ball Joint Separation
FYI:
I used the method shown on the link below when replaceing the right inner and outter lower control arm bushings on my CL-S. I used a 3/8" rachet end instead of the 1/2". The 3/8" provided enough leverage to separate the BJ and allowed wiggle room to not damage the BJ boot. YMMV
Will attempt this again on the left side as well soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ
Sorry if it's a repost.
I used the method shown on the link below when replaceing the right inner and outter lower control arm bushings on my CL-S. I used a 3/8" rachet end instead of the 1/2". The 3/8" provided enough leverage to separate the BJ and allowed wiggle room to not damage the BJ boot. YMMV
Will attempt this again on the left side as well soon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ
Sorry if it's a repost.
#2
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I completed the left side of my lower control arm repairs today. The hardest part of the whole repair was getting at the inner bolt that fastens the LCA to the frame. There is not a lot of room to manuver with wrenches or sockets; however, it can be done.
Purchased Moog OEM replacement bushings from RockAuto at a reasonable price. I was going to go the loaner tool route at Autozone to save a little green; however, to (KISS) keep it simple stupid, I employed a machine shop to press out/in the LCA bushings for $20 per side. This minimized alot of aggravation and stress, especially in the 95+ degree heat here in FL. Replaced the sway bar bushings and endlinks with Moog OEM stuff as well.
Now all I need is to get the Moog tie rod ends I ordered and an alignment to to finish off. Thank god, for now, that the right and left ball joints/boots are still in good shape. From what I can tell, they have the dreaded 'B' stamped on the base side which indicates (per service bulletin #06-015 Replaceable Ball Joints) that the whole knuckle has to be replaced when they go to crap. Hopefully, not for a while.
Purchased Moog OEM replacement bushings from RockAuto at a reasonable price. I was going to go the loaner tool route at Autozone to save a little green; however, to (KISS) keep it simple stupid, I employed a machine shop to press out/in the LCA bushings for $20 per side. This minimized alot of aggravation and stress, especially in the 95+ degree heat here in FL. Replaced the sway bar bushings and endlinks with Moog OEM stuff as well.
Now all I need is to get the Moog tie rod ends I ordered and an alignment to to finish off. Thank god, for now, that the right and left ball joints/boots are still in good shape. From what I can tell, they have the dreaded 'B' stamped on the base side which indicates (per service bulletin #06-015 Replaceable Ball Joints) that the whole knuckle has to be replaced when they go to crap. Hopefully, not for a while.
#3
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Last summer, I replaced the OEM with the MOOG Part # K9761 for the outer and MOOG Part # K90436 for the inner.
The MOOG brand states that their:
Advanced thermoplastic bushings absorb vibration and noise and deliver better handling and longer life, while providing the performance of urethane without the “squeak” normally associated with it.
All I can say is that I would not use these bushings again because they appear softer then OEM, which I believe are made by KYB, though not sure.
My suspension consists of Comptech lowering springs, tokio blues, the added weight of a S/C'er, and alot of crappy roads in my area.
#4
Is it the rubber that cracked? Did you tighten them up with the car jacked up and the suspension hanging? If you did, it could cause that to happen. The full weight must be on the suspension before you tighten everything.
#5
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
It can be difficult to do that on a lowered car though.
#6
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Yes, the outer bushing(s) that attach to the shock damper fork were the ones that displayed the most wear. Last year when I replaced the oem's with the Moog's and checked the bushings under load, there was a noticeable 'bulging' (at the bottom), as well as a 'stretch' (at the top) from the damper fork under the car's normal load. They just looked soft. This year when I was performing the timing belt procedure I checked them (outer busings) again and could observe a separation of the bushing material at the top of the metal sleave the flange bolt passes through as well as a vetical split in the bulge at the bottom of the sleave.
I installed the LCA's per the Helms (Front Suspension; Lower Arm Replacement; Section 18-21) which states:
6. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
>Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when conneting the lower arm to the knuckle.
>First install the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and nuts, then place a jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle weight before fully tightening bolts and nuts to the specified torque values.
>Tighten the castle nut to the to the lower torque spec; then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
>Use a new cotter pin on the castle nut.
>Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel.
>Check the front wheel alignment and adjust it if needed.
When I applied the load as required above, a jack was positioned under the distal side of the LCA, just far enough to allow a socket to be placed to torque the BJ castle nut. Jacked up the LCA until it appeared level, as it would sit with the car resting on the suspension. Then torqued all the remaining suspension components per the helms.
I can say this, the new OEM's now on the car do not reflect a noticeable upper 'stretch' or lower 'bulge'. Whoever make them and whatever they are made of appears more 'stout'
6. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
>Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when conneting the lower arm to the knuckle.
>First install the suspension components and lightly tighten bolts and nuts, then place a jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle weight before fully tightening bolts and nuts to the specified torque values.
>Tighten the castle nut to the to the lower torque spec; then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
>Use a new cotter pin on the castle nut.
>Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel.
>Check the front wheel alignment and adjust it if needed.
When I applied the load as required above, a jack was positioned under the distal side of the LCA, just far enough to allow a socket to be placed to torque the BJ castle nut. Jacked up the LCA until it appeared level, as it would sit with the car resting on the suspension. Then torqued all the remaining suspension components per the helms.
I can say this, the new OEM's now on the car do not reflect a noticeable upper 'stretch' or lower 'bulge'. Whoever make them and whatever they are made of appears more 'stout'
#7
Suzuka Master
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
A few tips on removing the LCA's on an '03 CLS-6:
Do not wrench on the 'nut' side of the inner arm connection. They are stamp welded to LCA frame connection assembly from the factory.
On the passenger side, there is a power steering return piping that runs from the front of the car on the frame rail of the front beam, held by two plastic return pipe clips. These clips have to be opened to let the piping free. This will allow the pipe to be moved out of the way slightly inorder to wrench on the LCA bolt end.
When wrenching on the bolt ends of the inner LCA's, it helps to swing the knuckle/rotor assembly to the 'nut' side to allow enough space for your breaker bar.
The driver's side is doable. On this side, once you get the bolt broken free and wrenched out, I had to tweak the LCA to the left as I worked the bolt out because the bolt end gets blocked/hung up on the rear tranny mount for the CLS-6. You have to kind of tweak it again when it comes time to reinstall to get that bolt through the LCA frame connection hole, through the sleave of the inner bushing, to the nut.
I purchased two new inner LCA bolts (#90118-S0A-000) to be safe; however, the old bolts were still in good shape.
Do not wrench on the 'nut' side of the inner arm connection. They are stamp welded to LCA frame connection assembly from the factory.
On the passenger side, there is a power steering return piping that runs from the front of the car on the frame rail of the front beam, held by two plastic return pipe clips. These clips have to be opened to let the piping free. This will allow the pipe to be moved out of the way slightly inorder to wrench on the LCA bolt end.
When wrenching on the bolt ends of the inner LCA's, it helps to swing the knuckle/rotor assembly to the 'nut' side to allow enough space for your breaker bar.
The driver's side is doable. On this side, once you get the bolt broken free and wrenched out, I had to tweak the LCA to the left as I worked the bolt out because the bolt end gets blocked/hung up on the rear tranny mount for the CLS-6. You have to kind of tweak it again when it comes time to reinstall to get that bolt through the LCA frame connection hole, through the sleave of the inner bushing, to the nut.
I purchased two new inner LCA bolts (#90118-S0A-000) to be safe; however, the old bolts were still in good shape.
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#8
That's good to know about the bushings. I've also had problems with the SPC and Ingalls camber kits. All the boots cracked. I ended up putting the original boots on the ball joints. Seems like the rubber just isn't made as good as the OE.
BTW Great writr up.
BTW Great writr up.
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rp_guy
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07-16-2017 07:33 AM