acutee

On our second gen TL, and maybe the first gen, to successfully entering a valid radio code the antenna behind the head unit must be removed. Every time the battery terminal is removed, you will have to go through the same process again prior to entering the code. It is very annoying if you work on your car and needed to remove the battery cable frequently. To avoid the same process, you will need to do this once and the subsequence times will take you just 2 seconds.

I bought 2 antenna extension cables, 3' each, for just 4 dollars, disconnect the antenna behind the HU and connect it to one of the extension cable, use the second extension cable connect it to the back of the HU. Now, you just run each open end of the extension cables to wherever you can reach and connect them together. That is it. Now, you can disconnect the antenna cable any time you like in 2 seconds and enter the radio code happily.

I hid my cable right behind the side panel and disconnect it in no time. Saving time and nomore getting scrapes, nor possible breaking the panel tabs. Hope it helps you all who are having the same problem.

SwampGas

I wish they would tell us what the actual problem is. If it's something stupid like a logic ground going to chassis ground or stray RF entering the unit, we can fix it ourselves.

Bearwolph

Is this a true must for the codes to work? Cause I have two codes from Acura and niether of them work. And ya saying its because the antenna needs to be unpluged first? Why the hell didn't Acura tell me that?

Gfaze

It's not supposed to need to be unplugged. It just seems to do the trick when a code doesn't want to go in sometimes.

Edward'TLS

I have disconnected the battery power several times, and I only need to punch in the unlock codes to unlock the HU. I didn't need to muck around with the antenna cable.

Bearwolph

I'm working on getting to the expansion valve and was wondering if any one knows if I can get to the antenna wire from here?

acutee

It's on the left side, pull the side knee panel, on the back, bottom side of the radio you will see the antenna cable, use a long nose pliers to push it down out of the socket. turn on radio, enter the code, and you should be good.

LacViet

Haven't use this tool, but for those who disconnect battery frequently, this can come in handy: http://www.jcwhitney.com/COMPUTER-ME...w?reviewflag=1

nano0222

its on the oppisite side i doubt it

iequalq

When I needed to enter the code into the radio I have always disconnected the antenna at the rear window. I have a 2003 TL. On its back window on the inside of the glass there is a rectangular plastic piece that is the color of the interior. If you take this small plastic piece out you see where the antenna meets the glass. If you carefully remove this connection you can then enter the code for the radio. This way takes much less time and less effort.

01tl4tl

have you tried parking lot- underground method?

acuratech1

theres something else you guys can try. it seems to only work on some 02 and 03 models. on the rear windshield there is a small cover at the top of the window slide the cover off and disconnect the connector then punch in the code usually works all the time and a lot faster than taking the dash apart

Jose2gtl

Bro the radio antenna is on the left side behind the radio. U need to.dirst pull out the left side eooden trim then the plastics next to the radio. Then stick ur hand in u might scrapee ur hand a little. And just pop the antenna out make sure to put it back on... Ull learn

demetri

punching the code in after entering an underground parking garage (concrete) worked for me.

01tl4tl

thats the current smart mans method,,in the years since this thread started
There are shopping malls and office structures everywhere-
if you cant find one with 1-2 level drop below surface,,do you live on Earth?

dreem1er

iTrader: (2)

unless you live in a flood zone...in miami there are is 2 places off the top of my head that have a one level under ground parking and one of them is private unless your a resident

extremist

Thanks for the tip - unfortunately it didn't work.
I have a 2003 TL-S with 92222 miles on it and the thing is a lemon. Now the radio is the latest thing to crap out on it.

• Had to replace the battery a couple of weeks ago
• Radio would not take the code on the card
• Called dealership and they wanted $130 to fix it (F-Them)
• Called Acura today, walked through and got the codes (already had them from their website) and tried them with the customer relations bot on the phone. "Well they should have worked I don't know why they don't. You'll have to take it to the dealership". But they want $130! "Well they have to be paid for their time but your car is out of warranty so it wouldn't have been covered anyway". So I have to spend $130 everytime I have to change the battery because of your stupid radio! Jerk
• Tried the trick disconnecting the antenna lead as you suggested, no joy.
• I've disconnected/reconnected battery, entered the codes, nothing works.

Any other ideas?

Regards,
James

3.2TLc

Hey Extremist, something else to try.....pull both battery cables off and then hold the ends together to clear any faults. You could try to enter the code again, if it doesn't take it you'll need to disconnect the antenna lead. You only have so many attempts before it locks up.

fsttyms1

I wouldnt call a 10 year old car you had to replace a battery on and are having a common radio issue a lemon

Did you remove the antenna fro the radio or only from the rear window? If all you did was the window, remove it from the radio.

chris03tl

Just went thru this a few nights ago on our '03 TL (non-S)

In my case, disconnecting the incoming wire to the black box in the trunk did the trick. Previously I would take a road trip to a nearby tunnel (for some reason my kids get excited driving through the tunnel so we made it a family adventure). Had the wife punch in the code while in the tunnel, we were good to go.

Disconnecting the black box is easier, but I notice it doesnt work for everyone. I was under the impression the radio actually receiving a good antenna signal was preventing it from "seeing" the person enter the code. What is the purpose of the black box in the trunk? I thought it was the connection between rear window antenna and head unit. If thats the case, why would it make any difference where you disconnect that wire?

extremist

Lemon:

• Motor mounts breaking (all 3 have had to be replaced), the last rear one costing $665 to replace
• Water Pump had to be replaced when timing belt was at 60K (extra $500)
• Transmission failed (at 80K/6 years and 11 months of ownership) - had to fight to get it replaced under warranty but still had to pay labor
• Rear brakes failed at 74K

My Isuzu Trooper was a much more trouble free vehicle.

I guess I'll have to try the removing the antenna lead from the radio trick as a last resort. Can't believe how much of a PIA this radio is.

Regards,
James

extremist

If you are talking about the black box that looks like it has copper wiring in it with two brown plugs, I unplugged those and tried entering the codes again and it didn't work.

But thanks for the suggestion. Better than Acura provided.

James

3.2TLc

Yeah, do ya still have the Trooper ?

While our TL's do require their fair share of wear and tear repairs, you have to understand the common issues and find somebody else to perform your car's preventative maintenance.....You're being taken to the cleaners, IMO !

Why do you keep it anyways, if you feel as though you have a true lemon ?

fsttyms1

Motor mounts are known to wear out. They are vacuum assisted. You paying that much to have replaced is stupid and you were taken. (Should have paid that much for all 3 including the mounts)
Water pump replacing is cheap maintenance while doing timing belt as the timing belt has to come off to get to pump. If you paid 500 for that you got taken
Trans, known issue. Many have had more failures (I had 5) I'm surprised you had to pay since it was replaced under warranty as you stated, unless you were one of the ones outside of the extended warranty.
79k, and you had to replace brakes? You are complaining?

Sorry none of this makes it a lemon as you call it

As for your radio code issue, not everyone has this issue. No one knows why some have it. Like posted before all you have to do is pull the antenna from the radio, not the back window.

chris03tl

Yeah, all that stuff replaced isnt really THAT bad relatively speaking.

Not sure why you didnt get help from Honda with the tranny, I had ours towed back to dealer with 65K miles on it (but it was well outside of the time of the factory AND extended warranty). Honda covered 90% of the cost, I dont even think I paid 100% of the labor cost.

Engine mounts, yeah, they die. Stupid setup from Honda IMHO, but aside from the tranny I think thats the only real common issue with these cars.

Water pump SHOULD be replaced when the timing belt is done. Considering Ive gotten quotes of 450 for labor + parts to do the whole timing belt job, you really did get taken at 500.00 extra for water pump. Im not even sure the dealer would charge you that much.

Brakes at 79K? We're on our 2nd set of rotors and pads at 86K. I had to change them at 40K or so because I was tired of the wheel shake when braking. Brakes are a maintenance item, if you think you are going to get a car that uses its original set of brakes forever, you are mistaken.

Re the radio issue: the black box in the trunk I unplugged looked like it only had one set of wires coming out of it (at least on mine). Not sure if there is another set facing the back seat that I couldnt see. Thought Id mention it in case you were looking at the wrong black box. And yeah, Acura was completely useless to me when I had trouble re-entering the code. All they did was look up the VIN and give me a code (which wasnt even the correct one!!!). I swear if the radio breaks ever again Im just gonna put an aftermarket one in. I hate the Acura/"Bose" setup anyway.

extremist

Finally had time to do this solution: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...+code+won+work
and it worked! What a PIA though. But hopefully I won't have to do it again before I get rid of it. Still deciding what to trade it for.

James

extremist

No, the Trooper died a couple of years ago due to stupidity of Firestone (long story) when the coolant hose broke and the engine seized. RIP.

As to being taken to the cleaners - I can't argue with you there now knowing what I know.

Why do I keep it? It's my daughter's car now since I bought my 2012 Passat SE TDI, and she can't afford to buy a new one - yet. It's still a nice vehicle - when it is not giving us fits.

The latest news they gave us the last time it was in for routine Oil & Filter is that it has a "Rear Main Seal Leaking" problem that needs repairing. The recommended service is "Replace Rear Main Seal, O-Ring, and Reseal Backing Plate". They wanted $1500 to do it. I've received quotes from 3 places that range in price from $649 to $925. I haven't decided whether to fix it or not, since I've NEVER seen any oil on the garage floor.

Regards,
James

3.2TLc

Hey James, the Extremist........Cars can be very expensive to maintain if you don't understand the basic fundamentals of the vehicle. If you are unable to perform the work, that is understandable......but by all means, try to take some time researching the problem involved and attempt to get a couple of estimates to compare the repair costs.

By the things you've already done to the TL, it should be settled in for awhile. If you buy another used car, chances are you're going to have things happen with it as well. With this latest news of the TL's leaking rear main, do some research on here and you'll find that some have simply replaced the PCV valve at a cost of about $10.

Don't get taken again, unless you don't mind being generous with your money !

startrek

South Florida has VERY FEW underground garages. I don't know of any. I know of a tunnel, but I don't think there's a place to stop.

OldCodger

Thanks for all the great tips, for getting my Radio back in operation, on my 2004 Acura MDX!
I really liked 'cutee's' idea of using cable extenders, so the dash does not have to be removed again!
I was able to buy a 12" antenna cable extender (no 3" available) at AutoZone today for less than $6!
However -
I was thinking that there has to be an easier way, than unplugging the antenna cable from the back of the radio! And the hint regarding underground to block the signal got me to thinking - tin foil hat! It worked great!
I wrapped paper towels around my antenna, then a layer of tin foil, another layer of paper, then another layer of tin foil (aluminum foil)!
I had disconnected the Negative Battery cable for at least 5 minutes, then when reconnect battery cable, turn on radio and entered the code - a weak FM radio signal came in!

SuperGreg

Same here, must have done it dozens of times, never had an issue. I wonder if this only affects certain years?

wowzer

The odd thing on my acura was that I had replaced my battery 3 times. The first 2 times, there was no trouble. I even had to disconnect my battery a few times without problems. Now I get the problem on my 3rd battery change. I live in a different location (Brooklyn vs Long Island). I wonder if it is a specific radio channel that causes this problem. I tried going to the Hicksville train station parking lot, 2 levels down. No dice. I will try to remove the radio cable next.

wowzer

How do you remove the window plastic piece? Do you slide it? Pull it straight down? Thanks.