Im doing the timing belt as I speak. What is the best way to get the crank bolt off without breaking it?

We are using a 160psi compressor with a impact gun and the bolt wont budge.

please help.

 

You wont break the bolt. You need either a better impact gun (which really isnt recommended to remove the bolt) the special tool and a breaker bar or you can use the starter method. Place the breaker bar on the bolt so that it rests on the frame or if long enough the ground and quickly (without starting the car) tap the key so that it just starts to turn the motor over and it will break free the bolt. You can pull the ecu/fuel pump fuse so that it wont start to be safer.

Once you break it free MAKE sure to go back and get the crank to TDC #1

 

thanks. i got my laptop in my garage ill keep you informed

 

Got it out. using breaker bar and turning ignition.

Thanks for your help. you honestly saved the day

 

a note- the bolt is set at 181 foot pounds torque
Not surprising a 160psi compressor- minus loss of power thru the tool wouldnt break it loose
See the DIY on crank pulley for tightening tips- example set to 120 ft lbs plus 3/4 of a turn of the socket past that--check,, but thats close on numbers iirc- it will bring it to 181 if followed. needs to be tight!!!

Yes its ok to jam a prybar into the flywheel teeth- remove inspection panel on trans for access to flywheel- that will stop engine turning while tightening bolt

 

thanks, quick question...is there a reason I got two oil seals in the package?

Do i take the oil filter housing off to get to the oil pump to change those seals? or should I not worry about it?

 

The oil seals are for the crank shaft and the camshafts. It is not for the oil pump. It is up to you to change the seals or not to change them. They normally don't fail that soon.

 

It usually takes a 3/4" drive impact wrench and lots of air pressure to zip crank bolts out.
Using some never-sez or whatever you call it when re-installing might make it a little easier to get out just in case there is a "next time".

 

Just fyi Tom, a lot of 1/2" impact wrenches these days are rated at 450 to 600 ft. lbs. at 125 psi with reasonable air flow. I had an accord that wouldn't come off with a 1" impact I borrowed from the bus garage. The scary part was that it moved about 1/8 of a turn. It would have been the third belt, the car had about 275,000 on it so I recommended looking for a new car. The correct tool and 6' of cheater pipe made no difference.

 

Everything went well and the car is running great. Thanks for all the help.

I don't know what is wrong with my dad's air compressor. It is a 200psi Dewalt compressor but for some reason it was only holding 160psi of pressure.

 

I'm planning on doing my timing belt this weekend, and i'm gonna use the starter method to remove the bolt, but as for reinstalling it, would just using an impact gun suffice? or is it necessary to remove the tranny inspection panel and jam the flywheel?

 

The rating and psi are one thing BUT there is something else called CFM. Many of those larger guns require a high CFM and a larger dia hose 3/8 instead of 1/4 like most hoses to operate at max potential. Most of the 25-30 gallon portable compressors dont have enough to operate some of those air tools to their max rating. My gun with my old compressor at 125psi would never break the crank bolt. WIth my new compressor at the same 125 it breaks it free just fine.

 

Good point. I did mention with reasonable flow, but I was too lazy to look up and list a real cfm rating. At the time, I didn't think of it, but I can just imagine a diy'er with a new shiny 3/4" impact from harbor freight and a pancake air compressor from home depot.

 

I have seen stranger things on this forum.

 

sooo....lemme rephrase that then: how do you get the crank bolt back on tight enough?