Hey guys, so for a few years I've been lurking on this forum, but now I've finally decided to join.
Here's my background: I've owned a 2002 TL-S 5AT for about a year, it has about 197k miles on her with a rebuilt tranny, but she still runs and drives like a champ. I've always done fully synthetic oil and did fresh NGK plugs once i got the car. The previous owner always ran 87 octane gas, so i just continued with it, but a month ago I accidentally filled up with premium 91 octane gas, and got a tad bit worse MPGs. So i switched back to 87 octane gas. Every once in awhile i would do fuel injector cleaners into my gas as well.
Over time I've put in a CAI(SRI hum got annoying over time)/ Tsudo axleback and the mid-muffler delete for a tad bit more noise.
My brother on the other hand has a 2004 Acura Tsx 6-speed with a SRI/ Full 3" cat back exhaust.
Before my brother installed his cat back, I'd walk him like a dog, now ever since a few months ago when winter rolled around, he beats me from the launch with him taking a 2-3 car lead that would increase over time. Did his 3 inch catback exhaust really increase his performance that much over time?

Another note: after i removed my mid muffler, i did an "ecu reset" i found it here on acurazine, (un plugging battery for awhile, let idle for 10 mins and then floor it for about 6 times.) The other 80% of the time, i have a feather foot as gas added up being a senior in highschool with a part time job didn't help too much.
But it seems like ever since i did that, I've always lost against my brother's TSX with I/E. Did my ecu adapt my chicken feet and reset itself with less power? (He reset his ecu too after installing his cat back.)

I apologize for the extremely lengthy post, but I really miss seeing his headlights in my rear view mirror.
Thanks for the help in advance!

 

the TL requires a MINIMUM of 91 octane, 94 if you can get it where you live
Using the right fuel will not lower mpg!
Run good fuel cleaner ie: seafoam or bg thru the gas tank using our directions
NOT some crap you read on the net

correct 8 dollar each ngk plugs are in it? not the 2 buck specials!!! less than 75kmiles on them now?

Might need to add a spacer for the O2 sensor - if its getting too fast a flow past it with the exhaust changes

CAN NOT IMAGINE where you read how to reset ecu with the messed up method you described!!!!

simply remove the CLOCK fuse from passenger end of dash for 1 minute and reinsert- that's the secret backup power to ecu and clears codes- forces full system self test

It will do some minor relearn of how you drive, shift points etc
But its not a major recalculation
More likely you need some minor maintenance to fix your baby up
And use the right fuel from a major name place = Tier 1 quality gas= with its extra cleaners
Our engine loads up bad- especially on Ethanol added gas, need to run cleaner to keep it shiny inside for best combustion
The pistons have cutouts for the exhaust valves because clearance is soooo tight! carbon layers increase compression, and not in a good way~

 

Thanks for the tips!
Ill start running 91 octane on my next tank. 91 is the highest we have here.
You said use seafoam or bg?
What is bg?

 

Yes. NGK Laser Iridium.
Roughly under 10,000 miles ago.

O2 spacer? The one in the cat or the higher one?

 

Your car ran on 87 for too long so odd are the 02 Sensors are fouled. When you use 91 the car 02 sensors cant detect the leaner adjustment so the ECU goes mad on you and give you worse MPGs.


If you ran 87 for too long and want to switch back to 91 and get the performance the car was intended you should: Replace 02 Sensors, Replace Spark Plugs, Replace Gas Filter, Replace or at least clean Injectors.


Otherwise the engine will run like crap.
NEVER use regular on a PREMIUM Only Car unless you want a massive HP and MPG Drop. You will be amazed by the power 87 octane robbed you from the TL-S.

 

Would it really be necessary to replace all those things if i switched back to 91 octane?

I found the diy for seafoam.
Doesn't seem hard.
I have an oil change coming up in about a month, so i might just try seafoam then.

Anyone have any bad experiences with seafoam?

 

1.- O2 Sensors can be cleaned by hand but they aren't that expensive anyway! Perhaps 60 bucks each?
2.- Spark Plugs are cheap and it is recommended to replace them (NGK Iridium IX Recommended).
3.- Gas filter well depends on which brand of regular you have been using (Regular gas is always dirtier but more so on some brands).
4.- Use all Seafoam Pint (All can) on half a tank to make it work better, That might clean the injectors enough.


I had good results with Seafoam.
Once you start to use 91 back you can use 87 for an emergency but no more than one time each month.
87 is bad for High Compression Engines and all of our exhaust sensors and ignition timing are MADE to be used with 91 octane only.

 

Gas filter?

Also the diy doesnt specify the amount of seafoam that should be sucked in through the vaccum line.

How long should it be before you change your oil after seafoam?

 

The DIY doesn't specify because you can pretty much use the whole can if you want. What´s important is not to pour all of it in one shot, You have to be slow but steady.


Seafoam states to be used like this:
1/3 Can to Vacuum Line
1/3 To Oil
1/3 To Gas Tank


We use it like this:
1/2 Vacuum
1/2 Gas Tank


Or:
1/2 Oil
1/2 Vacuum


Or
1/2 Oil
1/2 Gas Tank




You see what I Mean? Seafoam states not to drive more than 100 miles after you pour it in the Oil.

 

Alrighty.
I'll definitely give this all a shot and see how it goes.
Thanks for your help!

 

No biggie! ask if you have any more questions.

 

Let me clarify some things, we do not have spark plug wires or replaceable fuel filter.

Seafoam will clean the filter sock on pickup in tank when used as 1, 16 ounce can to 8 gal of fuel- just under half tank
Repeat with 2nd can car after refueling and down to just under half= in a week or two
Time and heat are seafoams friend, drives over 30 minutes really help

No need for vac port method for noobs!!!!!!!!! way too many things can go bad- especially if following the OLD- WRONG!!! diy!

2 cans thru fuel will clean every part of the system from fuel tank and filter sock, fuel pump, lines, injector rail/spider and the injectors, intake valves and piston tops, the O2 sensors and the cat

vac port method is for instant cleaning of piston tops and intake valves- used for diagnosing running problems by real techs- NOT for use by noobs!
It misses all the rest of the parts upline of MASTER vac port- not a side line, the only master vac port at TB there is

for oil- do before next change- doing gas method or vac, has NO effect on the engine oil
First time in oil? install new cheap filter- add seafoam and drive a week, change oil and filter with oil warm from 15 minute freeway blast to liquefy crud in pan

The new filter is to catch the crud headed its way, an old filter may not be able to contain the crud

10k on new plugs is fine, lazer is not needed but ok to use

DO replace the FRONT- pre cat- bank #1 O2 sensor, your main problem right now
That one reads the exhaust gasses exiting engine and sends back into to fine tune the engine
the after cat O2 makes sure the cat has done its job- its looking for different things than front sensor
front does the real work!

Denso is the oe brand and avail at any parts store
rear is probably ok -smog test will reveal or install new for fun (have not read of that failure on here)

after new o2 installed, do the ecu reset via CLOCK FUSE METHOD

 

you can probably fix the current problem with just the seafoam two times thru gas, and new front o2 sensor
the rest of that list is going overboard~

 

What are the factors when you do seafoam through the vaccum line?

Won't your car constantly smoke when you pour the seafoam into your gas tank as it slowly gets through the system?

 

Just to clarify 01tl I mean the sock thingy in the fuel pump acting as a filter.

 

thru the gas tank you get NO smoke at all
smoke is simply the oils that make up seafoam reacting to HEAT in the exhaust- specifically the CAT which is very hot inside if afterdrive is done right

You can do vac method and not see smoke, or you can rev at 2000 while adding seafoam and it will choke your neighbors!

for noobs: the danger in master vac port is: Too much at once can cause stalling and backfire! not good

remember the fuel tank lets it go thru the entire system at a dose of 2 ounces per gallon of fuel- seafoams MAX ALLOWED cleaning strength

We do it over 2 tanks in order to best clean- by those drives over 30 minutes, all parts of the combustion system

It takes time and heat to get the intake valve stems, backs and sealing edge shiny again
The pistons will have 10+ years of carbon layer buildup- that alone I would not want to use the fast blast method and potentially clog the O2 sensor

Oh yeah- the possibility of clogging the O2 sensor or loading up the spark plugs due to inadequate preheat drive, sit too long after application of product before blow out drive....
= Dude, go put 1 can in gas tank when its just under half = 8 gallons (17.3 capacity)
No bolts or clamps to remove, no holding throttle while applying the product

If you read that really old diy where they put a hose in can or cup of seafoam and added thru vac port, or used a small vac line on side of fender- do not use that method!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NO you cant use the brake booster or other vac lines as they do not feed both sides of the engine = really bad!!!!!!

the cup in hand is about the worst choice one can make.
Seafoam comes in a spray can! called Deep Creep, use that if you want to clean the TB inlet plate and can be used thru master vac port or thru the TB opening you are cleaning~
BUT
vac method MISSES so many things, and it goes thru so fast that MANY parts don't even get a chance to absorb it- get liquefied and pushed out of the system

 

So pour 1 can into about half a tank of gas, drive.
Then change oil/filter in about 100 miles?
Then fill up again and drive til about another half tank, pour in another can and drive then change oil/filter again?

 

If you pour it in the GAS TANK there is no effect on the oil.
You must pour some Seafoam into the engine (Like Oil) to make it work.

 

I'm a bit lost right now.

01tl4tl is saying to pour seafoam into gas 2 times and it'll work.

Skirmich is saying to put seafoam in through the vaccum line of the throttle body for it to work?

 

^ GAS TANK is the safest way to do it and it will clean the entire Gas Lines and Injectors.
Vac Port is the BEST WAY to clean the combustion chamber and back of the valves but that wont clean the Injectors and Fuel Lines.



I have done the procedure about 10 times now? its slow, painful but in the end it feels better than just using the Seafoam through the gas tank. (Its worth it).

That have nothing to do with the Seafoam working on the Oil without actually putting it on the oil.

 

So basically i have to slowly suck in seafoam and it should be fine?

If i get this right, slowly let seafoam suck into the engine. Once it sounds like it'll die, stop and let the engine catch up with itself? Then once halfway through, turn off the engine for 15-20 min, start it up and drive around spiritedly?

 

^ yup word for word.. Don't worry if the engine stalls.. The only concern is to not let it drink too much at the time, the engine itself won't let you drink it too fast as you will notice the sudden rpm drop.

 

BRIAN You don't get it! please do ONLY the gas tank method this way
Add 1 can seafoam to just under half tank
drive as desired
when low fuel light comes on, refill tank and drive normally

when its down to just under half tank- add 1 can seafoam and drive
DONE!!!!
================================================== ====

oil method before oil change- install new filter, add half can seafoam in oil filler hole! drive 30 minutes
change oil and filter with oil warm
done

================================================== ====
vac port method does NOT do a better job at cleaning!!!!
its for instant results as needed by REAL MECHANICS doing a `poor running diagnostic`
to rid the pistons of carbon buildup- a leading cause of engine run-on after ignition turned off (older cars mostly)

Head tech guy Jim D. at Seafoam says: seafoam thru the tank is more effective at cleaning all the parts, more, and better- than vac port alone
Even vac port method requires a can thru gas tank to finish off the job!!!

On my 1986 motorcycle its easy to look thru the spark plug holes directly at valve backs and piston tops
Mine are shiny new thanks to seafoam, Honda motorcycles require `frequent decarbonizing- thru gas tank additive` due to the same issue we have, tight clearance valve to piston top and high compression

 

the only additional cleaning needed and not reachable any other way= is the throttle body air inlet plate

Must remove the snorkel tube from airbox to TB, spray clean both sides and edges of TB air plate using throttle to open plate
wipe up excess runoff before assembly and engine startup
will run poorly a minute as cleaner gets sucked thru engine

carb cleaner spray or deep creep are fine, deep creep is better because it leaves a little lube oil on the hinges for that air plate- which moves all the time!

 

Note if you do seafoam vac port to a cold engine = no results can be expected!!
HEAT and TIME are its friends
get the most results for your 10 dollars~

 

^ You are confusing him further 01tl.
Brian for the sake of not being argumentative do the GAS TANK/OIL procedure.

When you are more confident do the VAC port and come back and tell us which method give you the Smoothest Idle and MPG boost?.

 

Its a start.
So warm up engine, drive 15 - 20 mins.
Pour half bottle into oil cap/ half into gas tank.
Let sit for 15-20 mins.
Drive like i stole it.

Sound good?

 

Or on the other hand, drive to about half tank, pour whole bottle in.
Drive, drive,drive. Until another half tank, pour another whole bottle in. And tadah?

And neither way affects oil correct?

 

The only way to affect the oil is by pouring seafoam through the oil inlet, if you don't you can use seafoam x100 times in the gas tank and it's still won't affect the oil.

Seafoam must be poured into engine oil inlet to affect oil.

 

If i just did it through the gas how long would it be until i had to change my oil/ filter?

 

Brian post #27- yours- says pour in oil NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
you have totally lost the idea here
FORGET THE DIY YOU READ we don't even know which one you read!

Lets make it really simple for you ok - buy 2 cans of seafoam, 16 ounce cans for 7-10$ each depending on sales

At just under a FULL tank, 16 of 17.3, add both cans to gas tank and drive however you want, some spirited wont hurt and will help

That's all you have to do for seafoam of the engine intake system from one end to the other- fully clean

You still need to do the cleaning of throttle body air plate, which also improves idle and running when you remove crud from it
That's not for today- it can wait

DO NOT PUT Seafoam IN OIL RIGHT NOW- or you have to change the oil very soon!

Is that easy enough?

 

??? Did you read my last response?
Unless you have to change your oil because of maintenance Seafoam wont affect oil life neither oil filter life at all using it by the gas tank.

 

when you need to change the oil in the future= when its 7500 miles have been driven, THEN do seafoam in the oil filler hole and a new filter, drive 100 miles, a week or two and change oil and filter

Nothing to it!

as said above- no amount of seafoam in fuel will have any effect on the oil!!

 

sorry skirm- getting confused on who is saying what,,I was typing when you posted response
reading his post is confusing

oil is oil
gas is gas
that's it

using it in oil will end the oils life!
the filter will be full of crud- that's why you use a new one to start- to be able to catch the stuff- an old filter may be near capacity and it shuts itself out of the loop

 

Wouldnt putting seafoam in the gas eventually get injected into the engine w/ gas that'll clean out the engine?
Then the build up would get into the oil and oil filter?

 

^ Nope. Even if somehow Seafoam survives the explosion in the combustion chamber and doesn't burn it will eventually be exhausted from the engine..


Gas travels this way:
Gas Tank > Gas Lines > Injectors > Back of Valve/Mix with Air > Combustion Chamber > Burns > Exhaust.
Nowhere in that journey can even start to touch the oil.

 

please take this down to the easiest method for noobs and everyone!

Install/Pour 2 cans in a fullish -15-16 gal in tank of gas and enjoy the benefits as they occur over the next 2 weeks
Seafoam mixes with fuel in the gas tank and cleans everything along the way to combustion/pistons AND cleans O2 sensors and the cat convertor on the way out!
Its that heat and time at work!!!

the super fast vac port method is simply too fast and furious application- going thru cylinders and out exhaust, for the deep cleaning we need
It also requires a can in the gas to complete the job~

================================================== ====

Another danger for vac port method is keeping the transfer hose 1 inch above fluid level in the cup with seafoam in it
When hose gets near the liquid it makes a seafoam tornado you can see- if hose touches/goes fully in to fluid surface or gets too close= it will suck up a whole can of seafoam in a split second
followed by engine stalling and possibly backfiring a bunch of liquid at you = totally not cool!!

That's why the spray can seafoam -Deep Creep- is way better if you do the vac port method.
Control of spray amount in one hand and throttle in the other = less likely to royally screw up!

the good diy is titled `seafoam specifically for 03` IF you insist on vac port method

Personally, I throw a can in half tank every 5000 miles/6 months on the TL
Maintenance dose mid-year/at oil change time 7500, is supposed to be 1 oz per gal, but doing the cleaning strength- to keep ahead of ethanol extra crud- 2 oz per gal of fuel doesn't hurt anything- clean is good!

 

Brian- less thinking about it ............ and more pouring of product in gas tank!!

IF you are getting a major oil and fuel mix somewhere- a blown head gasket or other serious problem is occurring~

 

Other things to check.
Check your brakes ! Dragging calipers can slow you down.
Tire pressures to spec

Type S model: Verify that the IMRC is working.

 

Alright.
I'll do seafoam in my gas the next tank.

As for dragging calipers, how would you know that is happening?

Also IMRC?