This article from the July 2007 Victory Lane magazine
The Vintage and Historic Auto Racing Newsletter
this is no internet rumor
It does explain the recent formula changes in some oils- you have to read the bottle so carefully these days to get the right stuff.
I'm sure many of us will research our oil to see if it is one of these formulas
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Oil Alert For Racers

The NEW API environmental seal on most new street rated oils means that the extreme pressure additives that protect such things as tappet to cam and distributor or oil pump gear bevel rubbing surfaces are eliminated or greatly reduced.
These are usually zinc, manganese and phosphate organic compounds that the EPA says cause damage to catalytic convertors on street cars.
Many racing engine builders use street oils for initial dyno run-in of engines then switch to racing synthetic oils and have found they must add additives to the street oils such as GM EOS Assembly Lube

Racing Synthetics from Joe Gibbs, Cosworth and REDLINE have all retained the extreme pressure additives.

It is possible that the new API Environmentally rated oils will cause problems on older street cars over time or under hard running. Talk to your local performance engine builder for info. Thanks to Ron Chuck Engines, MWE, REDLINE Oil and others for information on this
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What this means to us- some of us run the engine hard in the mountains or track and others brutalize them in traffic, buy quality oil !!!!!
Cheap is cheap for a reason
Get oil analysis done by lab- knowledge is insurance

 

sois penzoil platnuim effected? did it list the oils that arent good anymore, i dont want to put crappy oil.

 

Hmmm. I want to switch to synthetic, but my mechanic said if I have been running regular oil, I shouldnt switch to synthetic. I want to switch but he seems to think it will mess shit up. I did this with my last car and I dont think I messed anything up..

 

It is my belief the Penzoil is really pushing the Platinum with adaptive molecules to protect and extend yada yada- that is in the safe group- will be checking since thats my choice of oil- and there is a sample headed to the lab that will tell all!

I quoted the article word for word- they only mention the oils popular with hardcore racers (and possibly advertise in the mag) and it does say -thanks to... and others for information on this

I am guessing that means other makers submitted similar info for referance

 

Our engines love synthetic- it wont hurt anything but your guys abilty to sell you what he has in bulk

Its best to do a complete Seafoam treatment to the engine internals, and a a 10 to 30 minute idle with Seafoam in engine to scrub out the old dirty buildup before changing to nice clean long lasting FULLY Synthetic- read bottle carefully

 

Guys, its not like if you run it your motor will die. If that were the case it wouldnt be on the shelf

 

You should find a different mechanic. Also do a search. Its perfectly fine to switch to it

 

I only wanted to advise those who run their car hard often- and think they are using the best oil:
Research your product and see what standard it is
The article says high mileage and hard use may have probs down the road-
a TL with 200,000 miles is still like new engine internals so not really an issue

This is more for those who spend a lot of time on the high side of the rpm

Be an Educated Consumer is all I am saying

and Give Peace A Chance

 

Here is Penzoils reply:

All engine oils, with a API "SM" rating, have a mandated lower zinc and
phosphorous content (approx. 840 ppm instead of 1100-1200 ppm). These
additives are good anti-wear compounds but they tend to coat out on
emission equipment and thus diminish their performance. That being said, I
can assure you that Pennzoil Platinum formulation has more than enough
anti wear additives and friction modifiers to properly protect your
engine from wear.

Best Regards,
Technical Service