Aftermarket amp and sub installation

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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #1  
TunaTheFish's Avatar
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Aftermarket amp and sub installation

Hey what's up guys.
A good friend of mines gave me a Kenwood kac-7202 and a kicker subwoofer for free.

Now the problem Im having is that I have a Factory head unit and I won't be able to get a aftermarket one due to budget costs.

A friend of mines recommended me to get a lineout converter but I don't know anything about wiring .

Thanks
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 08:45 PM
  #2  
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Its incredibly easy to install an aftermarket AMP + SUB..

Grab the 4 speaker wires that go into the OEM SUB and D/C.. Connect the 2 positive together with the 2 ground negatives and splice it into a couple of RCAs; BAMM You have your RCAs just plug them into your aftermarket AMP, Adjust gain and your set.


That's the "EASY" Way.. There is a more complicated version which needs you to splice into the wires going to the OEM SUB AMP but that's a little bit more time consuming but you'll get a cleaner signal. Either way will make your Aftermarket gear work.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 11:16 PM
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What I did so far is connect the line converter where the factory amp suppose to be and re use the wiring harness. I havent tested out yet since my amp is not receving any power for some reason. Ethier bad ground or there isnt any signal at all
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 02:50 AM
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Man the hard way is always messy.... But you'll get a far better signal thus more SQ.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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I installed a no-name Double-DIN stereo from China in my 1999 TL. I used a Beat-Sonic Hsa-09ad to connect the stereo to the stock 20-pin wiring harness and 12-pin amplifier/subwoofer wiring harness.
The only problem I had was getting the steering wheel switches to work. I believe it's possible to make the switches work, but have yet to determine if an additional SWI interface adapter is needed. PAC makes several that could work. The only issue I have with the beat-sonic unit is that its 20-pin connector does not have a pin and wire on pin 3 to connect the steering wheel switch and no means of adapting the switch to aftermarket head units. I called their support number and the person I reached had no clue what I was talking about.
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Old Jul 25, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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I give up on doing this project so instead I will save up, buy myself a Pioneer double din head unit and make things more easier.

For sub's I want to invest a enclosure box ethier 2 10" or 2 12" subwoofer. I don't know which is better.

I'm not aiming for competition but a nice kripsy clean sound system. So far I might get Pioneer TSA components speakers up front and a 3- way coaxial for the rear.

For amps I'm not to sure about how much watts I need. I'm a newbie so any opinions would be great. Thanks
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Old Jul 27, 2015 | 06:05 PM
  #7  
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^ That's the spirit! and you will get a shit load more SQ on the Speakers too going that route.


Id go for a 900-1000watts total setup.
500 for sub and 500 for speakers.. Its the easiest to do and the Stock TL ALT can handle it with ease.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 02:44 PM
  #8  
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An aftermarket double din makes everything easier
Got me a JVC touchscreen, with a Sundown Audio SA 10. Sounds amazing.
Make sure to buy headunits from websites tghat offer free wiring harness and faceplates.
Got mine from sonicelectronix.com
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 09:11 PM
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I spliced into the preamp line to the stock amp in the rear seat, and crimped some connectors on so I can plug in either the stock amp or my new amp without much work aside from removing the rear seat. If I had to do it again, I would splice into the rear speakers and use a line out converter. Reason being, the stock EQ doesn't necessarily match the frequency range of your new amp + sub. LOC will let you adjust everything to get it just right.
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