Transmission Fluid Drain: $75?

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Old 05-20-2016, 12:15 PM
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Dont know if I should start a new thread for this.

One of the lug-nuts on my front passenger side wheel is off (unsure for how long). When I went to get new tires today, they said that the stud is stripped (probably an overzealous previous tire installer). They said that it is a hour-two-hour job to get the wheel off, the brake pads and rotor off and install the stud, put the brake rotor and pads back and reinstall the wheel.

Given this history (above), is this something I can do myself?
Is there a how-to somewhere?
What parts do I need?

Thanks in advance. And please let me know if I should go to a different thread.
Old 05-21-2016, 06:07 AM
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The mechanic is right, you take off the tire the caliper and the rotor to get to the stud. You can definitely do this yourself.

The stud only costs a couple of bucks at your local Auto Store.

You were quoted two hours to do this job, wow! Find a different mechanic.
Old 05-22-2016, 09:27 PM
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OK, 2 of 3 over. Took probably 20-30 minutes or so, all told, including setting up the tools, and cleanup (of drops of oil spills).

I took the car for an ~1mile drive prior. The oil wasn't hot when I drained it (does it need to be?). It also came out pink enough, which tells me that someone's already done this prior to my getting the car ~25K miles ago. There was also very little black stuff on the magnetic plug. Oh, and I put the jet-kit bracket on top this time round.

I think I got a little less than 3qt out this time around, although unsure why - I had filled in 3qt last time around, and the level was inbetween the max/min mark at that time. This time too, the level was between the max/min marks on the dipstick.

I guess I still need to take care of that stripped stud, do/get an oil change, and eventually do the full coolant drain. But my 120K (long overdue) stuff is done for now.
Old 05-24-2016, 04:01 PM
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Oh, quick one.

I figure I might as well change the transmission filter while I'm doing the 3 of 3 next week.

Any gotchas? Do I need to like fill the filter with oil or something? Or simply unscrew the old, screw in the new, and put back everything together like before? Part number for the filter is 25450-P7W-003. HOw about a part # for the O ring, please?

I guess I have to remove the engine air-filter box, correct? Might as well take a look at that too, but I replaced that probably 15K or so ago. Guess it is time again.
Old 05-25-2016, 06:39 AM
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This is the exterior transmission filter that I use...

http://www.amazon.com/ATP-B-265-Automatic-Transmission-Filter/dp/B004QC1U0W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage http://www.amazon.com/ATP-B-265-Automatic-Transmission-Filter/dp/B004QC1U0W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage


Great price and exactly the same as oem.
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Old 05-29-2016, 01:30 PM
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OK, done with the 3 of 3. I also changed out the transmission filter along the way.

First the filter: That friggin place is hard to get to. My ratchet is 3/8ths and my 10mm is a 1/4th. I use an adapter for that. That didn't fit. I went out and bought a straight 3/8ths 10mm socket. No go - that didnt fit either. I finally went out and bought wrenches in metric, and was finally, with great difficulty able to get those bolts open. Even so, the final bolt - the bottom one that holds the bracket to the chassis didn't come off completely. I completed my business with that bracket (and bolt) still in place (although fully loosened). Whew! I did make a small mess with the ATF that came off the filter, but there was no way to get to that mess and clean it up :-( It remains in place.

Then I got around to the last of the 3x3 drain/refills. This was very quick this time round; the bolt had no filings, and the ATF cameout looking ruby red as the last time. One thing I had bought but didn't change was the crush washer :-( Forgot about it and by the time I realized it, it was already too late. Next time round.

Took it for a very short drive - shifts and no warning lamps. Longer drive later this afternoon.

Thanks to everyone on this thread (and the other DIY(s))
Old 05-31-2016, 03:12 PM
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Oh, forgot to mention I did not (have to) remove the battery for the ATF Filter replacement (it didn't seem like it would be in the way one way or another, at least to me). And I didn't want to go through the radio-antenna-pull-out-and-enter-code circus all over again, either.

And I took it out for a 120-150 mile drive in the mountains (20-45 mph speeds, lots of shifting) on Sunday. No particular problems that I could discern.
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