Just a general question re. crank case capacity. Recently changed my oil with Mobil 1, container is 4.73 quarts, I seemed to add to much, eventually drained what I figured was an adequate amount, the dipstick still registers right at the upper limit dot. I can't imagine having more than 4.5 quarts in there even still...at what point is "too much" significant? Can I just pour the full 4.73 in the crankcase and call it good?

 

thats what our car holds is 4.7 qts, and many of us just put in 5 with no problems
Thats just above the full mark with 5 and a new filter

 

IIRC that's when the engine's completely empty, like during a rebuild, is it not? I also seem to remember seeing somewhere during an oil change w/ filter it's 4.5Qts. That's what I've been putting in mine ever since I got it......but I could be wrong.

Can anyone confirm or bust this information?

 

Its too cold to go get my owner manual but most of us- and on the advice of our Moderator - warm the engine first- change the oil and filter and add 4.7-5 qts

What does your dipstick say with 4.5 in it???

here is a helpful link- free owners manuals !!!!
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/...01_OMANUAL.asp

 

Have you started the engine after the oil change to fill the oil filter with oil... let the engine cycle and then check your oil levels again.

 

Ive been filling the full 5 quarts in my car for over 250k now and its NEVER shown over the dipstick.

 

fill the oil filter with oil before u start the car. u dont want any dry starts

 

Its good practice, but there is more than enough oil where it needs to be during start up to protect from any damage

 

Filling the filter before install is good practice- just for the extra margin of safety it provides in those first few seconds before it fills, pressure then builds up and oil flows thru the engine,
and the opportunity to apply a light coating of oil to the o-ring and threads is right there~
Assures excellent seal and way easier to remove next time!

If you never see FULL with 5, perhaps your betrothed would appreciate you answering one of those dipstick enlongation ads

 

so i can just put 5 quart and i would have no problem at all?

 

assuming you let the warm old oil drip out till its as much as possible- go for it

 

sorry guys but this is kind of off topic but i saw a oil extractor at a car store. it shows that you can change your oil without crawling under the car. Can this actually be done?

 

Buy a set of ramps and a quick drain plug
You have to get underneath to change the filter anyway

 

No! Turn your front wheels all the way to the right, look inside the wheel well, you'll see it

 

since we're kinda on the subject, what bran of oil are you guys running?

 

Lucas fully synthetic with mobil 1 filter or royal purple with mobil 1 filter

 

ok chuck that does get to the oil filter- but what about the drain plug
I want to get as much old stuff out- and ofter will use Seafoam to clean the oil system when changing- so I drain it from the low point- the bolt

If using a suction pump just make sure you get 4.5 qts or so, including the .5 in the filter

 

numerous oil threads- any name brand you like 5-W30 or 5-20 for foolhardy gen3rs
K&N- Mobil1 filters good, some use fram and have no prob, so basically buy whatever you want!

 

what do you mean by "foolhardy"? .. just out of curiousity

 

acura was looking to improve the mileage of all their vehicles to meet CAFE standards and determined you can run 20 w and not destroy the engine- is it the best weight for the engine as far as protection and lifespan- no, but it does get a tiny bit better fuel economy
Stick with 5-30 and enjoy your TL

 

I use 5W30 in summer and 5W20 in winter for our Canadian climate in my 03 TLS, using whatever synthetics on sale at that time (usally Mobile 1 or Penn Platinum).

Out of curiosity, I stock up several gallons when they are on sale, and is there expiry date or how long are new oils good for when kept in the garage? I figure it should be okay to store for 1 to 1 1/2 years?

 

it can be done I've seen my mechanic use it a few times but not really ideal, because all the dirty crap is way at the bottom of the oil pan and the extractor doesn't really suck everything up..when you take out the oil drain plug everything comes out metal shavings etc...gravity works better than an oil extractor

 

vtec:
they higher number is the oils flowabilty at normal engine operating temp ~200F

unless your guage is reading below its normal summer range, what you want in cold weather is a lower cold flow number, meaning 0-20 or 0-30
The engine needs its normal protection at temp

 

me too

 

I've been having tough time finding synthetics with 0-20 or 0-30's at my local stores so 5W for me for now.

 

as long as its not 20 below zero F, the 5 will work for you
Redline makes a 0-

the gen2 book says you can use 10w- as long as min. ambient temp is 20 F so there is magin built into all these things

 

Not much of a need to with synthetics as they flow better when old than dino oil

 

I was guessing that Canuks park outside in -50 F and want to jump in and get moving!
5w-whatever synthetic is the thing for cold as fsstmys said-
FULLY synthetic being the best option
Me- I live where 32F is freezing