Hey Guys,

I started my car the other day and the ABS & TCS light came on while driving. When I shut the car off and turned it back on the light turned off. Today, the ABS kicked in while pressing the brake. Happens more often when stopping at lights and such.

Recently, I put in a stainless steel brake line but took out the front lines but left the rears. I also used some cheap brake fluid. I bled some air out of the line and stepped the brake pad all the way down.


Could there be brake booster damage? Can anyone think of any problems associated with these occurrences??

Please help!!! Thanks

 

abs motor is shot...or going..same thing happened to my car..or you messed up the brake master cylinder when you bleed the brakes

 

when you bleed the brakes your not supposed to go down to the floor with the brake pedal..kills the master cylinder

 

try rebleeding the brakes, you also have air in the abs controller
May have a smaller problem by having SS and rubber line mix,
Use one or the other to keep the pressure in the lines equal, but if its an emergency while lines are on order--do what you have to

Use DOT 4 spec fluid ONLY- any brand will do but most use a name brand

for ease of your helper and safety of the master cylinder:
Put a small piece of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal arm so the pedal only goes 3/4 of the way to the floor- that is normal operating range

When you push it to the floor the rubber seal ring goes past its normal area and may be damaged--dont freak out yet...- do the other fixes ad see how it is

Bleed order is specific to the TL, not like most other cars because of its abs plumbing
Left front =driver front then clockwise around the car.
left front, right front, right rear, and finally left rear
Do each one until its no air bubbles and all clear clean fluid.

Make sure you both understand pumping brake pedal 3 times and holding it down like stopped at a light- open bleeder 1/8=1/4 turn- use clear plastic hose to watch for bubbles- when helper says DOWN- meaning the pedal is on the wood stop, close the bleeder and pump up again
refill the master cylinder after each wheel, put its cap on fully and do the next wheel until all are perfect!

NOW REMOVE THE WOOD BOCK UNDER BRAKE PEDAL

After thats done- then you can get the air bubble out of the ABS controller-
it happens when you done a brake line install--

hard to prevent so acura says to:

Do 2 45mph to stopped, full effort braking with abs engaged, immediatly get back to 45 and do the 2nd stop. If the pedal felt firmer-higher up the 2nd time,, you had an air bubble in the controller. Its gone to the calipers to be bled.
Now do the bleed all around again- always LF RF RR LR
You will find some air
Go drive it and see how the brakes are

If its difficult to get the abs to engage because you have performace rotors, pads, and tires-- then take a few gallon jugs of water to a safe road you can do this test on.

Make a line of water for one side of the car to drive the length of- say 20 feet or more,,or patches of water
When you hit the brakes fully, then enter the water- the water wheels will slide and the ABS pump will get active pumping the brakes in milasecond times to on-off-on-off until the speeds are equal, so when you get to dry road again it will have to work more.
That will get all trapped air bubbles out

Do this on a safe road- I am not responsible for your actions or death

 

you might need to bleed the abs pump. do it or get it done before it gets worse. its always best to use a vacuum pump for bleeding the brakes.

 

doing the acura method I cited above- will dislodge air bubbles from the ABS controller/pump, for those who dont have a fancy vac suction machine~

 

Thanks a lot guy for responded especially you 01TL4TL and all of you guy.

Yea it happen when i Install The stainless steel brake line, and when the SS Brake line snap i just replace the Two front only and the two back still in.Well i try to put back the rubber hole for the back too ,and see how it is(thank god i only buck up when the brake line fail and i only tap the car behind me, but have to drive home whit the fail brake it scary!!!!) and the worse thing is that my dad tell me not to put the SS brake line in.

 

thats what happens when you buy cheap SS lines
Also replace the crush washers when you change the lines- parts stores carry them, special soft metal

rebleed the brakes as directed and it should be good- then do the 45 mph stops to get the air out of the controller and bleed the system again

Its much easier to do than to read about~

 

thanks, i learn my lesson, imma try to do in the morning before go to my store. I know it does'nt take long. ONe more question, my bro have a 94 Accord Ex and his ABS light come on too, is it the same problem? or just the sensor wear out?

 

no sensor to wearout on the ABS- if the light is on something needs attention

You do have a friend pumping the pedal??- or a vacuum system to do it alone?
Want to be sure you understand what procedure has to happen to get all the air out

I find removing the front wheels to be a good for easy access to the bleeder nipple
The rear ones have more room to get to them