Hello.

On my drive home today I noticed a hard (or sharp..?) stop while braking..
As I go about another mile , I'm slowing down for traffic and I hear a snap and then some light grinding that went away when I got up to like 20 mph.
I got home fine and went to diagnose the issue.

I removed the passneger side wheel and it looks like the subframe is broken.
Anybody able to confirm for me?

This is NOT OK to drive, correct?
I am not letting my girl drive it until we fix it..
She still wanted to know if it was safe whatsoever for short distances (to and from work tomorroww.. It is about 1 mile or less away)

These are the best pictures I got right now since it's been snowing.

 

EDIT:

Is this the part I need?
Or do I need the whole front subframe as a whole?

Thanks!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12754413885...tion=view_item

 

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The break appears to be at the #1; RRBeam below; however, I cannot tell by the pictures.

 

Yes I think you're correct. I will take better pictures tomorrow when I inspect some more. It is on the passenger side also, looking at that diagram, are they not symmetrical?

 

The large bolt head (red arrow) would be #23 on either side of the rear beam as shown on the diagram.
It may be prudent to also give #11 front beam a good 'once-over' to check its overall condition as well.

 

Thanks! That is really helpful. I will check it out.

Anything else I should consider replacing when I do this? Ill take more pictures tomorrow of everything so I can get some opinions on it.
I have just been researching and seeing things about replacing motor mounts, etc.

I do have new front strut/shock assembly for both sides that came with the car, so obviously it's a perfect time to install them.

 

I got some better pictures today. I took off both front wheels to check the status of the rest of the subframe as well. It's rusty but nowhere near as bad as the passenger side, assuming because of the AC drip? I also need to replace the Power Steering Pressure Line as it has a leak and I have been topping off power steering fluid every couple days. I'm sure a combination of the AC exhuast, power steering fluid, and salty roads (it's been blizzarding out for weeks now) just expedited the corrosion on this side specifically.


I noticed where the sway bar attaches on the passenger side is rusted through as well, as you can see in the pictures. My next question is , which parts should I replace here? I am considering doing a full front end kit from rock auto but I'm going to have to wait as I need this subframe fixed first and its possibly going to be costly comparatively. I was assuming sway bar link and the bracket that attaches to the sway bar for sure.

Appreciate any help! I hope to tackle this problem next week when I get the part I need (going to order on Friday).

 

The car is 25 years old, and it's a rust belt car. The subframe is not the only thing falling apart. Throwing this amount of work at it will end in sadness 4 months later when the seats fall through the floor.

If you do attempt to tackle this, keep in mind every bolt involved is rusted solid and will break. Including the ones that mount the subframe to the frame, give that some thought.

Time to let it go.

 

This was not a daily driver and was mostly kept in a garage for lots of her life.I purchased it from the original owner. AFAIK a big reason that specific spot is rusted through so badly is also that the AC dumps water on it constantly.

I understand what you're saying but a new car is just not an option for me atm. Fixing things myself is. The part will be here on Tuesday and I am also replacing all the hardware and most of the front suspension parts as I go.

Appreciate the response regardless, only time will tell.

 

My 03tl is rusted thru on passenger side only, been driving it 4yr now. Have new sub to instal if I can fix trani.
Yeha! May follow you on this one.
the AC drain tube dumps all over sub as well as sunroof drain tube leaks (shrunk connection leak at floor board drivers side) fun fun rust .

 

UPDATE

So, good news. Much progress has been made!

I purchased a front sub frame rear beam for a decent price. $240 including shipping.

I am basically finished with disassembly, got all front end suspension pieces out. Got the exhaust disconnected.. Had to purchase a couple things and rent a ball joint seperator, etc. Nothing too hard actually! Only broke 1 ratchet and so far only 3 screws/bolts broke from rust. (Literally attempting to get the first rotor screw off, my screw driver bit SNAPPED OFF inside the screw head perfectly.. I then made it so much worse attempting the WRONG solutions. Ended up drilling out a nice size hole on the edge of the screw, then used a hammer and flathead to force it to turn..

ANYWAYS, I got the engine support beam form harbor freight which is different than the Acura videos I was watching. I want to make sure I mount it properly to the beam. I watched one video where straps were used around the throttle body and then around a metal bracket/loop by the water pump. (My engine doesn't have the second loop..)

I checked the service manual and it is very vague.. Here it is.




This is what I believe is correct. Driver side by power steering dipstick.

I had originallly around the throttle body but I believe the hook spot is better?

Would that tab coming off the manifold help? Thats the main obvvious looking way to support the engine.. People talk about brackets around here but I cant find any.

 

UPDATE 2 :

I realizenow throttle body + intake manifold s not the way to go at all.

I do have a large heavy duty floor jack and long 2x6 I will use as well , and a large bottle jack I could use to make sure not the entire weight of the engine/trans..

The bracket/hole on the driver side by the tranny fluid dipstick is okay I believe. I am going to maybe move it over a notch to the right so It isn't pressing on that hose at all.

 

If your power steering pump does not have #26 below it may have been changed in the past and never replaced?

 

Im having trouble getting the support beam I purchased to hold the engine without slipping. I am literally down to 4 bolts at this point.

I may just have to go rent/purchase an engine hoist and possibly return the beam if I cant figure it out?

It's supposed to be as centered on the engine hook points a possible, but the fender wall is so skinny that it wont support it without slipping, and if I have it near the firewall where there is more support, the chains are pulled too far forward and I run into a similar problem.. Any advice?

If you need further information or pictures let me know. I have tomorrow off from work and will be working on it all day...

 

^
It should look something like this one pictured?

 

Awesome update! Another option if you have the cross beam for transverse mounted engines, used a bolt in the front head shown below per the Service Manual page 14-112.

 

I have the one Zeta pictured and I ended up putting a few self tapping screws into the braces on the outside into the top of the quarter panels in the channels. I used a bolt in the engine and a big washer to attach a chain.

 

UPDATE

I am almost finished with this project !! This is what my original K frame looked

It was mostly hollowed out in a lot of places as well. Looks like a death trap.


Anyways, I ran into so many issues and things but nothing too crazy. I only broke 2 bolts and accidentally broke my power steering line (from the rack to the reservoir) .

I won't be able to finish until the parts I ordered get here sometime next week.

I'm going to replace the hardware, the bushings, tie rod ends and sway bar links.