hi guys. i've been experiencing a sticky ignition switch lately. inserting the key in the switch is not an issue at all but when it comes to turning it to accesory mode and back to nuetral ti remnove the key, i have to wiggle the key back and forth and apply different amount of pressure pushing in. it doesnt have any problems cranking, just getting in and out of accesory.

i was wondering if any1 else came accross this prob. and had a couple questions.

1. can i change ignition switch without having to get new keys? (prob not huh?)
2. when changing the ignition switch, would it affect the emobilizer?
3. would i have to change, update, or upgrade anything else at that time?

thanx in advance

 

Have you had the ignition recall done yet?? 99s have a recall for bad ignitions.

 

That's the first thing I would check for a 1999 TL.

If the ignition switch has not been replaced under the recall, Acura will install a new one for free.

If it has been replaced, you could just install a new one yourself. You should be able to buy one for about $45 online.

Note that even the replacements can fail. My 1999 TL is on it's third ignition switch.

To answer your specific questions:

1. can i change ignition switch without having to get new keys? (prob not huh?)---> Yes
2. when changing the ignition switch, would it affect the emobilizer? ---> No
3. would i have to change, update, or upgrade anything else at that time? --->No

You basically remove the old switch and reverse the steps to install the new one. It's pretty straightforward although my Helm manual neglected to show a third screw on one of the brackets. That caused me some grief until I was able to find the screw.

You'll want to disconnect you battery for the job so have your radio and navigation system security codes available.

 

thanx for the feedback guys...

i think i might have had acura do the recall when i first got the car just over 2 yrs ago. i will have to pull out the invoices and find out exactly what they did.

i just want to make sure were all on the same page... when i insert the key and attempt to turn it, it is very difficult and i need to wiggle it around (fairly roughly)

if i replace this part, would i not need new keys? i dont understand how i wouldnt since. the same way like changing a door lock you have to get new keys too..right?

 

I suppose it's possible that the mechanical resistance is not being caused by the ignition switch. The ignition switch itself actually sits on the left side of the steering column. Before I replaced it, I expected it to be on the right side, behind the key slot. So maybe the problem could located between the key slot and the switch.

But the TL ignition switches are a known weak point and it's a good bet that replacing that will correct your problem.

Finally, the locking key and cylinder assembly is totally separate from the ignition switch. That why you can replace the ignition switch without changing keys.

Good luck and post an update when you figure out the source of the problem.

 

well sounds like i am using the wrong terminology, the point that seems to be giving me resistance is where i insert the key :S

 

If the resistance is, in fact, occurring where you insert the key, then it's not due to an ignition switch issue. What gives you the impression that the resistance is at that location?

 

i just assumed there was some sort of mechanical resistance at the point where i insert the key. seeing how wiggling the keys gets it to work, i figured the female portion the key is inserted to is whats going bad...

 

I understand. Best of luck with the repair!

 

Have you tried using a different key?

 

i have tried a different key, same issue. the weird thing is sometimes it feels like its not as bad as other times. its random and inconsistent, but never perfect

 

hey guys,

don't mean to bring up an old thread, but i'm in a similar situation as toronto's and was hoping you can help me out.

I have a 01 TL with about 175,xxx miles.

My problem is that I can not turn my key in the ignition at all, its just stuck once i insert my key.

Before, I would wiggle the key and push it in and out and it would eventually work. Does not anymore.
I tried turning the steering wheel (wheel lock) and I researched and replaced the ignition switch and am still having the same problem.

Could it be the key cylinder that needs to be replaced?
Is there anything I should check before replacing the key cylinder?

help please!

 

Here's an old thread that might help: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...t-turn-623773/

Good luck!

 

hey bob,

thanks for your reply.
that thread mentions a lot of the steering wheel lock, but that isnt the case.. i tried many times turning the steering wheel left and right while turning the key. nothing.

also, i tried my spare key, which didnt work as well.

could this be a key cylinder needing to be replaced or immobilizer problem?

 

the immobilizer is electronic id of the key to the car
Does the green key image appear on dash?

the wiggling push pull to operate key would generally indicate the back part of switch- the electrical section is bad
AND from the description= likely severe wear in the key side as well,
A Locksmith could tell you if the key part is too worn. They know locks and keys!

Have you looked at the back of ignition switch, they literally burn inside!
see diy section for thread on replacement on 99s, they had a recall but not later years

were there many keys or weight on the key ring?

 

thanks for your reply 01tl4tl.

no green key image appears on my dash.
not sure if the key is supposed to show after i insert my key or turn the ignition on, but nothing shows up.

i reviewed many threads/posts on this site and already tried to replace the ignition switch, but am still having the same problem.

will remove the key cylinder and have a locksmith inspect it.

 

I suspect your actual key cylinder is bad. That is actually a very common thing that can fail especially when you have the symptoms you described.

The switch engages the terminals and it in no way affects how the key turns.

Since I have had my key cylinders go bad more than the switch, I suppose I am one of the few.

 

Typically, you'll have to turn the key to the on position so you can depress the release button to get the cylinder out. If your key won't move at all, try tapping on it with a very small hammer or something similar, while turning and wiggling the key.

 

i'm hoping it is the key cylinder.
i was able to get it out yesterday by using the tapping with hammer and flathead method on the 2 bolts that hold the cylinder in place.
will be going to automotive locksmith to get it inspected and will update then.

thanks.

 

Your tumblers and key could be worn out. Ask the lock smith to change the tumblers in your lock and then try your key. If it turns you're done. If not then maybe cut a new key and try it in the lock. If it turns, then you need a set if new keys too. The new key will need to be reprogram.

I believe there is a DIY. I've never tried so don't if it works.

When I say cut a new key I mean a cheap $5 key to test the lock.

 

Is your key straight? I recall something similar on an old car where the key just needed to be flattened out....I think we used a cast-iron skillet...

 

hey guys,

my car is finally working after 2 weeks of sitting in the garage.

i had a automotive locksmith inspect my key cylinder, and he said the insides were so worn out that its best to just replace the cylinder with a brand new one.

ordered the part and installed it. new keys came with it.
had the locksmith program my keys with the cars system.
car is running fine now.

thanks guys for your help!

 

Nice to know, and thanks for the update, much appreciated.

 

Yes, thank you for the update. Glad to read that you got it fixed.

 

I know this is a bit old, but what did the locksmith charge you? Would it have been different if you hadn't removed the cylinder yourself?

 

hey,

i believe he charged around $30-40 to activate the new keys
around another $40? to inspect the key cylinder.
don't remember clearly as this was almost a year ago.

yeah, i'm sure it would've been different as he needed the cylinder component itself to inspect.
he wouldn't have been able to actually inspect clearly if the key cylinder was still attached to the steering column.