My 2003 TL just had its original transmission replaced at 148000 miles. This got me wondering, considering these cars (or at least this 5AT gearbox) aren't known for their longevity. What's the most mileage anyone here has gotten out of one of these transmissions?

 

my 03 TLS transmission was replaced in 2008 @ 76K. to date, i'm at 220,346 miles and the replaced RMK transmission is still operating properly. KOW

 

I've seen posters with the original having 2-300k miles. What I have noticed is that the non type S TL's have a much better shot at lasting longer. Probably has to do with the increased horsepower creating more heat in the tranny I'd guess.

 

back in the day when these trans were dropping left and right it didnt matter if it was a type-s or not. They were all doing it at the same rate. HP doesnt really have anything to do with it. Its the simple fact of not enough coolant getting to the 3rd gear clutchpack during the shifts. The heat happens whether you are giving it or driving miss daisy (which is actually worse as there is more slippage while going slow while it shifts than wot)

 

103K was the best for my rebuilt trans.
But my Original died at 114K

 

I got 210K out of my factory trans. The last 80K was with a 3.5L and 50K of that was supercharged. What I learned from my re-builder was change 3 qts every oil change, replace pressure switches every 30-50K miles and keep the A-B solenoid in proper adjustment (Sonnex adjustment tool). If you run a trans cooler you need an inline thermostat because trans fluid below operating temp is as bad or worse than to hot.

 

Post 2005 Trans here, was replaced at 87k and currently at 221k I've owned since 180k and it's been most city miles, still shifts great with no issues!

 

My 2000 TL-P was at around 250k when we traded it in last year, it was on trans #3.
I picked it up from a friend of my dad's when the 2nd trans blew up at around 180k.

 

My 2003 had about 147,000 miles on the original transmission when it went, just had it rebuilt.

 

How do you adjust the solenoid?

 

Check out the link below. The A-B solenoid is located directly under the battery tray on top of the trans. You have to pull the solenoid off and adjust it on a bench. You will need to use a heat gun to loosen the locking grease that in on the adjuster threads. Make a mark on the adjuster and solenoid body for a reference to the starting point. The directions are very detailed so I will not restate them but there move in opposite directions. My first adjustment I moved a full 1/4 turn, then reinstalled and drove the car for a couple hundred miles to allow the ECU to adjust to the change. I did make a second adjustment of 1/4 turn for a total of 1/2 turn from the start.

Solenoid Adjustment Tool - 88950-T - Sonnax

FYI the faster the transition shifts the less clutch slip you have, which means less heat and particles to clog the internal filter which is the ultimate cause of trans failure. A Sonnex engineer informed me that there purpose for this adjustment it to keep the solenoid working properly with wearing internals in order to prevent the trans from destroying its self as it ages. If you rebuild and install a shift kit this is a must!

 

OK, very interesting. Will this effect 1->2 shift? Mine is not engaging as quickly as it used to.

Edit: Just read the instructions:

Adjusting solenoid ratio “A” will affect:
• Reverse servo control and Reverse engagement
• 1st clutch Forward engagement
• 3rd clutch feed and 2-3 upshift
• TCC lockup RPM slip rate in 3rd only

Adjusting solenoid ratio “B” will affect:
• 2nd clutch and 1-2 upshift
• 4th clutch and 3-4 upshift
• TCC slip rate in 4th

 

Factory transmission lasted 90,000 miles.

Post 2005 transmission, replaced by Hall Acura in July '05, lasted 130,000 miles

My death code was P0750 - shift solenoid A. The car didn't throw this until it had already failed in traffic. No prior warnings or codes before this.

To this day I'm unsure if my transmission actually failed or if the solenoid failed, but I'm inclined to think clutch material clogged the solenoid. I talked to an Acura tech who actually worked for Acura during the hay day of these failures and he said actual solenoid failure is rare, but he had seen that on occasion.

Also it had the classic noisy torque converter whining sound after failure upon start up. This tells me the torque converter was damaged, which is common with this type of Honda A/T failure.