pnokio

Hi guys,

Around a month ago, my 05 base automatic started to make noise (both front wheel) when hitting every small pot hole, road cracks. I felt that my car were like jello (not stiff at all, loose, clunk noise). Looks like noise come from under my feet. Transmission shift pretty good at that time. A week ago (3 weeks after noise) I felt that changing P to R, take more time that usual. Plus gear 1 to 2 was harsh.

Car was sitting all weekend long at -25 celcius. This morning my car start to slip (little bit) on first gear. This afternoon car still slipping but more than this morning. After 30 min of driving, at a red light, I decided to shift D to N to D, bad idea... I was stuck, my car rev like a was in neutral. Then I putted in P restart the car putted P to D and it worked. 30 sec later same problem. No blinking light for tranny problem. No check engine.

Anyone knows what's the problem?

Transmission mount? Transmission is out? Motor mount?

I changed ATF 6 times in the past 2 years. I did 3rd and 4th pressure switch change.

At cold start, I hear a whining noise from transmission side. I changed my o'ring on the power steering last year. Plus, I hearing a clunk noise from transmission from P to R

My car is parked outside. I can R but hard to go forward D. I need a towing to bring my car to the garage.

Thank you

pnokio

Car has 210000km

musiclevelz5

Sounds like your transmission needs rebuilt. Look up all the threads regarding this. They all have similar problems as yours does.

When the internal filter loses its ability to suck up fluid causing the atf pump to whine from lack of fluid, the transmission needs a rebuild. Almost always this is caused by the 3rd gear clutch pack clogging up the internal filter.

MAC4K

Hi all, I have a 2008 base acura tl and its been giving me some problems. Bought it used and over priced at a dealership with 96k miles. Now we're at just over 101k and its over heating on me. At first it would shake and sound rough when i started it. I changed both spark plugs and coils. Shaking went away momentarily. Now check engine light is on and flashes for a few moments when i start it. Car still continues to heat as i take long drives. Or stop and go for more then 10mins. But as soon as i hit the freeway and i'm over 45mph the temp. needle goes down. What do you guys think it is? It is my first car and I'm wanting to do all the necessary repairs myself.

Thanks to anyone that replies. Anything at the moment helps.

AMTMJ

Do your radiator fans ever kick on? How's your coolant level? Any noticeable coolant leaks?

As for the shaking/vibration on cold starts, that's normal operation if it smooths out after the first 30-60 seconds. It's more noticeable If your motor mounts are bad. You can read about it in this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...isfire-822421/

MAC4K

they do kick on after temp needle gets passed 3 quarters of the way. the coolant levels i forgot to mention. i filled it up last week and noticed the reservoir was empty again over the weekend. but i didnt notice any leaks. thats what also has me wondering and stuck. the warning codes that the car itself gives me is P2251 and P0134. i dont know if these codes contribute to the problem.but the codes for the cylinders i.e P0302 are still up even after changing both spark plugs and coils but i dont know how to reset codes.

AMTMJ

P2251 and P0134 point to the O2 sensor on the rear bank (rear side of engine, top/upstream). Is P0302 the only cylinder misfire code posting?

As for the coolant, definitely sounds like you have a leak somewhere and could very well be the root cause of your misfire(s) and O2 sensor codes. Address the leak first. Rent a leak tester from your local auto parts store and see if you can locate the source. Are you blowing white smoke out the exhaust and does it smell like coolant? If so, this would point to a leaky head gasket. A compression test can also be accomplished to determine if your head gasket is leaking.

MAC4K

the rest of misfire codes are as followed; P0301, P0304 & as we know P0302. ok sounds like you know my life. but white smoke does come out exhaust and it does smell like coolant. to properly rid of this problem is it easy? is it a job for someone who barely knows anything about cars except a couple of videos on youtube? or is it something for the professionals?

AMTMJ

If you possess very little car knowledge, then I would leave this job to an experienced mechanic. Call a few independent, reputable shops and gather quotes. When you take your car in, make sure they confirm your head gasket is blown. Hopefully, your car didn't overheat and warp your heads.

MAC4K

wow warp the heads? sounds even more painful to my car and my wallet. thanks for the advice. what should I mention when talking to and getting quotes from shops?

AMTMJ

Ask a number of reputable independent shops for a quote on replacing the head gaskets. Once you settle on one, take your car in, tell them your symptoms, and ask them to troubleshoot the issue. Let them verify the problem for you. If they determine your head gaskets will need to be replaced, then there shouldn't be any surprises on the price since you received a quote in advance. If they happen to discover your heads are warped, then…well…all bets are off and you'll need to open that wallet a bit wider.

Evilocity

OP, your problem looks like to be transmission related. I have had very similar problems and need to rebuild transmission.

pnokio

Yes, I needed a rebuild. Did the rebuild, got the car last thursday, check engine came out today. I noticed that my car it's louder from air intake I think. It looks like I have a CAI type of sound. Pedal feel harder, doesn't seem to have power like I used to before the rebuild. Looks like my 1st to 2nd shift, jerk a little bit. I have a one year warranty, I'm bringing the car back to the garage. Anyone knows what the problem?


Thank you

flyromeo3

So when they rebuilt your trans do you know what work was done?
Did they only replace the T.C and change the clutches out? ( which is the first thing that came into my mind with the jerking youre experiencing)

I've been driving nuts the mechanic that is rebuilding my trans. I literally interviewed him on what he was going to rebuild.

So far this is what im having my mechanic do ( hopefully yours didnt go the cheap route)

1. Clean, polish valve/servo body bores.
2. Test and or replace each solenoid
3. Clean transmission casing internally ( you would be surprised how many mechanics dont do that )
4. Test Pressure Switches and or replace if need be

There were a couple of other things but my goal is not to visit him after I pick up the car. Matter a fact I even told him to drive the car for a week after you fix it.

How much did the rebuild run you?

pnokio

1800$ CAN

They told me that TC was change thats all I know.

Brought the car an hour ago. Code was P0741, they erase it and told me to ride until it come back again.

I'll bring the car this sunday they didn't have time this week.

Thank you

flyromeo3

Wow,. 1800 and all they changed was the TC.
The code will come back.

Sounds like they didnt clean the valve body
P0741 error relates to the lock up solenoid but the problem is internal to the transmission.
Thats how mine started and it drove fine for almost a year until it finally shit the bed.

Grill them on the details of what work was done.

pnokio

At the time I asked if they changed the TC, they said yes. I didn't ask for more. I'm bringing the car back this sunday.

flyromeo3

ok,..let us know how that goes.

pnokio

I will

Thank you

flyromeo3

btw,...did you change out the rear main seal while in there?
Not saying you need to but figure since the work to replace it requires dropping the trans figure its worth to get it done.
Keep that in mind in case they want to drop the transmission again.

pnokio

I'll check it out

Thank you

pnokio

Is it save to drive? I have a 2 hours trip tomorow for work. Transmission stil' under warranty

pnokio

After 50 km of driving, check engine came back

flyromeo3

my symptoms started around March 2015 and the trans finally went Nov 2015.
In between those months I must of put 2-3k miles on the car and changed transmission fluid every month or so. Just to keep her going. I even went with Redline D4 and it did make a difference for a short period.

i'd definitely give it back to them and have them drive it around to ensure the CEL doesnt come back on.
The CEL should of never came on after leaving the shop if they did the job right.

pnokio

A solenoid was out, they changed it. Noise coming from the intake, they change something in it. They will drive for 2 days. We'll see then.

Thank you

pnokio

Update

Check engine pops after a few km. They'll drop the transmission and will change other stuff... They'll do the rear main seal to. I'll you guys know what's the outcome.

flyromeo3

Did they tell you exactly what they will be changing out? Was the valve body overhauled when the originally did the work?

pnokio

I'm picking up the car this afternoon, they made a list of what they've changed. I'll post it later on. Hope I'm not going back there.

flyromeo3

Can't wait to read it.


I'll share mine when I get my car back end of this week ( as told )

pnokio

It's in french, I'll try to translate everything.


They've changed :


- Torque converter
- Filter
- Clutch kit
- Drum spring ?
- Snapring ?
- Solenoid
- Transmission mount
- ATF
- Rear main seal
- 10 hours of labor


No more noise coming from the air intake


For now no check engine yet, I'll drive more and update everything.

flyromeo3

I understand French if its easier for you to post.


seems like they replaced the correct parts.

How's the shifting feel?

pnokio

Different from OEM, I'm used to OEM. For some reason, I feel like 2-3-4-5 smooth as hell, 1-2 not as smooth as the other. I don't know how to explain... Placebo maybe?

Before when shifting P to D, transmission is moving a little bit, now car don't even move. I guess it's a good thing. I never drove a new car, so I don't have a thibg to compare.

pnokio

This problem was swaybar linkend on both side.