noob going to replace his timing belt
10-09-2011, 09:39 PM
#1
noob going to replace his timing belt
Ok guys since im ballin' on a budget
I have decided that I am going to try and replace my timing belt and water pump myself with my car @120,000Mi
I am armed with:
a video from eric the car guy on how to do it (the one where he does the timing belt for a Honda Accord v6)
One lift
A torque wrench
This thread (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-timing-belt-695821/)
and alot of fear
and ok so before i undergo this does anyone know what specific parts i will be needing?
and should I look into adjusting my valves as well?
I have decided that I am going to try and replace my timing belt and water pump myself with my car @120,000MiI am armed with:
a video from eric the car guy on how to do it (the one where he does the timing belt for a Honda Accord v6)
One lift
A torque wrench
This thread (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-timing-belt-695821/)
and alot of fear
and ok so before i undergo this does anyone know what specific parts i will be needing?
and should I look into adjusting my valves as well?
10-09-2011, 10:00 PM
#2
takin care of Business in
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DONT....
timing belt is not something to play around with....
either that or your not a noob....LOL....
either way good luck.....
timing belt is not something to play around with....
either that or your not a noob....LOL....
either way good luck.....
10-09-2011, 10:15 PM
#4
Moderator
Doint T-Job + Valve Job is a Must! its so easy without the Timing Belt on But! As "swoosh" point out if anything goes wrong say bye bye to Engine or Say Hello to a Very costly Repairs.
Dont Mess with it if you arent Sure about doing It.
It took me 1 day to complete the job, But taking my Time to do it right. lol seems alot of time but It was my First Timer. Next T-Job im Confident to complete it in less than 15 hours.
Dont Mess with it if you arent Sure about doing It.
It took me 1 day to complete the job, But taking my Time to do it right. lol seems alot of time but It was my First Timer. Next T-Job im Confident to complete it in less than 15 hours.
10-09-2011, 10:20 PM
#5
00 ssm
Yea same here. My first time on my car i took a lot of time. When I did the 105k on my sisters accord, including valve adjustment, it took me 3-4 hours. Slight experience is everything. Just be careful and patient and youll be fine. Never feel over cautious.
10-09-2011, 11:32 PM
#6
Senior Moderator
Doint T-Job + Valve Job is a Must! its so easy without the Timing Belt on But! As "swoosh" point out if anything goes wrong say bye bye to Engine or Say Hello to a Very costly Repairs.
Dont Mess with it if you arent Sure about doing It.
It took me 1 day to complete the job, But taking my Time to do it right. lol seems alot of time but It was my First Timer. Next T-Job im Confident to complete it in less than 15 hours.
Dont Mess with it if you arent Sure about doing It.
It took me 1 day to complete the job, But taking my Time to do it right. lol seems alot of time but It was my First Timer. Next T-Job im Confident to complete it in less than 15 hours.
1 day? 15 hours? First time i did it was 4 hours. Dont take this personally, but what where you doing for 1 day to remove a belt? 1 bolt out time for a drink? 2nd bolt out time to run to taco bell? 3rd bolt grab the yellow pages for escorts
10-10-2011, 12:09 AM
#7
Moderator
hahahaha
Nope I took my Time, Bought a Pizza, I Have 2 Cars soo I wasnt rushing Anything...
For me Changing the T-Belt was 10 times harder than Adjusting the Valves. Not becouse it was Hard or Complicated, Mostly becouse I have little Tools and the Space to do the Work is Incredibly Small... Also I didnt have the Original Battery Holder so to release the T-Belt Tensioner Presion was a real PITA to do... I since then boughted new set of tools and the Battery Holder so 15 hours is just for Fun perhaps the Job could be done in much less but I dunno, Next T-Job is due for another 30K well see.
Nope I took my Time, Bought a Pizza, I Have 2 Cars soo I wasnt rushing Anything...
For me Changing the T-Belt was 10 times harder than Adjusting the Valves. Not becouse it was Hard or Complicated, Mostly becouse I have little Tools and the Space to do the Work is Incredibly Small... Also I didnt have the Original Battery Holder so to release the T-Belt Tensioner Presion was a real PITA to do... I since then boughted new set of tools and the Battery Holder so 15 hours is just for Fun perhaps the Job could be done in much less but I dunno, Next T-Job is due for another 30K well see.
Last edited by Skirmich; 10-10-2011 at 12:12 AM.
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10-10-2011, 08:51 AM
#9
2003 TL-p
timing belt and water pump job is not hard, i had more trouble replacing that blasted rear motor mount than this. Basically if you use common sense and dont rotate the crank or cam gears, make sure the slack is in the right place you cant screw it up. Eric the car guy is awesome, his videos are great, follow that and your set.
10-10-2011, 09:20 AM
#10
Senior Moderator
hahahaha
Nope I took my Time, Bought a Pizza, I Have 2 Cars soo I wasnt rushing Anything...
For me Changing the T-Belt was 10 times harder than Adjusting the Valves. Not becouse it was Hard or Complicated, Mostly becouse I have little Tools and the Space to do the Work is Incredibly Small... Also I didnt have the Original Battery Holder so to release the T-Belt Tensioner Presion was a real PITA to do... I since then boughted new set of tools and the Battery Holder so 15 hours is just for Fun perhaps the Job could be done in much less but I dunno, Next T-Job is due for another 30K well see.
Nope I took my Time, Bought a Pizza, I Have 2 Cars soo I wasnt rushing Anything...
For me Changing the T-Belt was 10 times harder than Adjusting the Valves. Not becouse it was Hard or Complicated, Mostly becouse I have little Tools and the Space to do the Work is Incredibly Small... Also I didnt have the Original Battery Holder so to release the T-Belt Tensioner Presion was a real PITA to do... I since then boughted new set of tools and the Battery Holder so 15 hours is just for Fun perhaps the Job could be done in much less but I dunno, Next T-Job is due for another 30K well see.
10-10-2011, 09:26 AM
#11
agreed. if you want a vid, here it is:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/tools.aspx?tid=3
(he does charge a fee for it only b/c it took him a long time to edit it up etc. 10$ vs a shitload of $$ is worth it imo)
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/tools.aspx?tid=3
(he does charge a fee for it only b/c it took him a long time to edit it up etc. 10$ vs a shitload of $$ is worth it imo)
10-10-2011, 10:51 AM
#12
lol thanks for all the tips and time estimates.
but im not a TOTAL noob its just that i feel like this is a big job and its the first time i will be able to do something like this.
and yea as the video says, just try to get the crank pulley off first, and he holds up a special tool. Is there anyway i can do that without it? and if not how much would that tool cost?
and i'm going to go out to autozone and oreillys to look at timing belts.
and should i be able to get the valve adjustment tools there aswell?
but im not a TOTAL noob its just that i feel like this is a big job and its the first time i will be able to do something like this.
and yea as the video says, just try to get the crank pulley off first, and he holds up a special tool. Is there anyway i can do that without it? and if not how much would that tool cost?
and i'm going to go out to autozone and oreillys to look at timing belts.
and should i be able to get the valve adjustment tools there aswell?
10-10-2011, 11:38 AM
#13
Senior Moderator
You can rent the pulley tool at autozone/napa.
As for the timing belt. I personally would buy OEM from the dealer. Its only 35 bucks and not something i would shop around for the cheapest you can find
As for the timing belt. I personally would buy OEM from the dealer. Its only 35 bucks and not something i would shop around for the cheapest you can find
10-10-2011, 11:51 AM
#14
I agree, the OE t belt and water pump have definetly proven to be solid performers
aftermarket I would use Gates parts
get the tensioners and idlers from gates too
clean the intake manifolds egr ports and passage all the way thru the manifold length- carb cleaner or deep creep and a wire coat hanger
crank pulley nut is 187 foot pound torque
a strong breaker bar and using starter to click click click and blam!! the nut is loose
aftermarket I would use Gates parts
get the tensioners and idlers from gates too
clean the intake manifolds egr ports and passage all the way thru the manifold length- carb cleaner or deep creep and a wire coat hanger
crank pulley nut is 187 foot pound torque
a strong breaker bar and using starter to click click click and blam!! the nut is loose
10-10-2011, 11:53 AM
#15
for valve adjust tools: parts stores will have a `GO / NO-GO` feeler guage in metric sizing,,
its the right tool for the job!
When it slips in and stops at the bump- its at spec!
get a TB to manifold gasket
new valve cover gaskets
ck the bolts for valve covers- may need new seals
its the right tool for the job!
When it slips in and stops at the bump- its at spec!
get a TB to manifold gasket
new valve cover gaskets
ck the bolts for valve covers- may need new seals
10-10-2011, 05:19 PM
#16
Advanced
Since this is a noob posting, I may as well ask a noob related question. Why exactly do we need to remove the crank bolt? Does it prevent engine movement/allow engine movement/is it removed to allow access to a cover that needs to be removed? I have read thru the how-to's but not really understood why it needed to be removed.
I have considered doing this myself as well, or at least recruiting my mechanically inclined friend to help. Just wanted to have a better understanding about this one thing before I jump into it.
Thanks,
BTC
I have considered doing this myself as well, or at least recruiting my mechanically inclined friend to help. Just wanted to have a better understanding about this one thing before I jump into it.
Thanks,
BTC
The following users liked this post:
swalch@stanford.edu (10-10-2011)
10-10-2011, 09:06 PM
#17
Since this is a noob posting, I may as well ask a noob related question. Why exactly do we need to remove the crank bolt? Does it prevent engine movement/allow engine movement/is it removed to allow access to a cover that needs to be removed? I have read thru the how-to's but not really understood why it needed to be removed.
I have considered doing this myself as well, or at least recruiting my mechanically inclined friend to help. Just wanted to have a better understanding about this one thing before I jump into it.
Thanks,
BTC
I have considered doing this myself as well, or at least recruiting my mechanically inclined friend to help. Just wanted to have a better understanding about this one thing before I jump into it.
Thanks,
BTC
10-11-2011, 06:56 PM
#19
agreed. if you want a vid, here it is:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/tools.aspx?tid=3
(he does charge a fee for it only b/c it took him a long time to edit it up etc. 10$ vs a shitload of $$ is worth it imo)
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/tools.aspx?tid=3
(he does charge a fee for it only b/c it took him a long time to edit it up etc. 10$ vs a shitload of $$ is worth it imo)
10-19-2011, 07:44 PM
#20
Ok guys, so I cant do the timing belt job any time soon. I have 123,052Mi on my car right now, and how long do you think I can make it last? I have heard people not replace theirs until 150K.
I have checked the belt for any wear and it seems to be in good shape and not have any uneven edges or wear.
Plus my drive is 40Mi round trip to school and back and its all highway and i only live 2.6Mi away from the highway. So that should help in it not lasting a little bit longer?
I have checked the belt for any wear and it seems to be in good shape and not have any uneven edges or wear.
Plus my drive is 40Mi round trip to school and back and its all highway and i only live 2.6Mi away from the highway. So that should help in it not lasting a little bit longer?
10-19-2011, 10:34 PM
#21
takin care of Business in
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I dont know if the highway/city driving will make it last longer....
I did mine at 135K and it held up great until then....
that said...IN NO MEANS AM ASKING YOU TO PROCRASTINATE !!! DO IT ASAP BECAUSE IF IT BREAKS YOUR IN FOR EXPENSIVE REPAIRS
I did mine at 135K and it held up great until then....
that said...IN NO MEANS AM ASKING YOU TO PROCRASTINATE !!! DO IT ASAP BECAUSE IF IT BREAKS YOUR IN FOR EXPENSIVE REPAIRS
10-31-2011, 02:30 PM
#22
So I went to the dealership this weekend to get quotes:
60.00 - Timing belt
160.00 - Water Pump
810.00 - If I wanted them to do the job
Are these fair prices?
and MAN am I going to need to save up if i want them to do it. But in true Jalop form, and my mechanical mind I will surly try to do it myself with a friend that did his a while ago, so I will have a guiding hand.
60.00 - Timing belt
160.00 - Water Pump
810.00 - If I wanted them to do the job
Are these fair prices?
and MAN am I going to need to save up if i want them to do it. But in true Jalop form, and my mechanical mind I will surly try to do it myself with a friend that did his a while ago, so I will have a guiding hand.
10-31-2011, 05:00 PM
#23
that's how much I paid for parts and I live in canada where parts are more expensive. Also i got someone to do the work for me, guy did it as a personal favour so he didn't want $ from me. But I got him a nice expensive bottle of alcohol. And i was quoted 8 hours at 110$/hour from every shop I called. And this guy did it in 3 hours with my help.
10-31-2011, 07:36 PM
#24
takin care of Business in
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buy the parts online and take it to the dealer for the install 
I was quoted $1600 for the job....I bought all the parts online for $400 and they did the the labor for $500....all done for $900
I was quoted $1600 for the job....I bought all the parts online for $400 and they did the the labor for $500....all done for $900
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