AMart83

Hey everyone,I might be replacing my engine soon. I'm hoping you guys could give me some advice.

I'm wondering what parts do you recommend I change?

For sure:
-timing belt
-water pump
-spark plugs

But what else do you guys recommend that I change while the engine is pulled out and I can get something changed for free or at little-to-no cost?

Also, if you recommend a part, should I go with an OEM or a name brand aftermarket (for example, I'll be using the Aisin timing belt and water pump kit)?

Thanks in advance.

Skirmich

Things you mentioned plus:


1.- Rear Main Seal
2.- Cams and Crank Seal (3 Seals in total)


Those 4 things are usually really-really expensive to fix once the engine is installed.

3.2TLc

Our TL motors are very durable unless abused or neglected.
Has the present existing motor been fully checked out as to being totally trashed ?

If so, what was the diagnosis ???

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

I would definitely change the rear main seal, but I wouldn't worry about the cam and crank.

Also, always go with OEM with this stuff. You're expecting these parts to take up to 10 years of abuse, no reason to cheap out here.

01tl4tl

Im told by other ziners = the aisin kit is the exact same ie: is the maker of oe kit
use Honda thermostat ngk plugs yadayada
do the egr cleaning of intake manifold, do some dremel cleaning up of rough edges of intake ports
whatever it needs in motor/trans mounts this is the time to do it- takes minutes to install the front!
rad cleanout or replace, new hoses for rad and heater hoses- one blows and the engine is toast

isn't this the car we have been working to locate coolant loss- history of overheat and past owner attempts to fix,,recent purchase?

01tl4tl

I would go with all the new cam-crank seals- for the few dollars in total for the protection of not using 13 years old and may have been sitting without oil keeping them fresh- rubber seals

You have all the parts loose or removed to reach them, its like replacing the timing belt and not doing the water pump when its the very next- and last thing- there!
but private shops and even dealers will quote without the wp just to make a low price on the 105 service and get the job in the door- where the price jumps because hey you need a wp!
its sitting on an engine stand- do it now and be done with it is my motto

adjust the valves while its on the stand, new gaskets and new rubber grommets for the valve cover gasket bolts- those tend to leak anyway
Service the throttle body/IACV
clean/replace all ground wires and batt pos cable as needed- can diy new wires

for good measure- a new Denso front O2 sensor will make sure its running correctly

Skirmich

That's 13yr old Cams and Crank Seals..
With a dropped engine and doing the timing belt already, Why would you not do the Cam/Crank Seals with the timing belt too ??
They are up to be changed with all the mileage/years, And easy as pie to change with the engine out.

3.2TLc

Hey AMart83, was your present motor professionally diagnosed as being totally shot ?

If so, what were the main things wrong with it ? Overheating or what ? Was it smoking and banging ?

01tl4tl

ck his other threads detailing the problem and all that's been looked at

AMart83

Thanks for all the advice everyone. What about belts? Replace all of them or just certain ones?

I can't find an honest mechanic in Miami, so nope, I can't confirm. I'm just planning ahead for the worst case scenario.

As far as symptoms go, it misfires and sometime (every 4-7 cold starts) it will blow white smoke out the exhaust for a bit.

As you know, the mechanic who checked out my cooling system told me it was an internal leak in the engine, but the guy didn't even mention needing to burp the system even after I brought up that there was air in the system and it was burping right in front of him! He also never ran a compression test or a leakdown test to validate his diagnostic.I also forgot to mention that he took 7-10 minutes to look at the problem. I actually had to talk to him as he was walking back to his truck as he was ready to go to his next appointment. So yeah, once I find an honest mechanic, I'll have them do the leakdown test (in front of me, of course).

Skirmich

Unless you see something wrong with the P/S Belt you can replace it while doing the Timing Belt as it has to come off anyway.
Accessory Belt can be replaced later on.

01tl4tl

but why not replace all the belts and tensioners now while its easy ?
and, based on experience, the part you don't replace will be the one that bites you~

take the tension off a 12 year old belt and its tensioner loses its sense of self worth (or spring pressure etc) = failure after new belt installed, tensioner fails = total bummer

replacing parts of engine sitting on a workbench = Priceless!

3.2TLc

So, are ya gonna rebuild the old motor or replace it ???

03blackbeast

I would agree with the above. I don't know if I'd worry about can and crank seals though. I'm getting ready to do my timing belt and have been doing extensive research on it. I actually emailed Eric the car guy to see what he said about those seals. He says quote "don't worry about those unless they're leaking. But I've never actually seen one leak". That's just my 2 cents though. Really up to you. Could be cheap protection or an area where you could save a buck.

3.2TLc

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